macbwt

I assumed it was you and you changed your login name. LOL :p

Those cylinder walls are going to get hot fast. Then you will end up with a destroyed engine. The oil will not be able to make up for the lack of coolant.

Wow Dyost You figured out the hardest way to skin that cat. I will stick with the drain and fill. Much easier in the long run and the fluid still gets changed. Drain and fill or machine exchange has worked and have not had any issues regarding transmission fluid problems with the Edge transmission.

The key is awareness. Frequent checking and monitoring of the PTU fluid. Heavy use would require frequent fluid changes. Environmental conditions also play a part along with how long you idle as the heat just starts to cook the fluid. I would start at 10K fluid changes and then test. then go 15K and test. You want to look for that acceptable point. Just like I find with engine oil. Even the synthetics have a point of failure based on how the vehicle is used.

The seal on the shaft may not have failed yet but with the DTC your coolant is leaking out. The water pumps I cut in half with a Flowjet Water cutting machine and dissected both failed at the shaft seal resulting in failure. Working on a video to be posted which will explain the theory I have on the failure based on the inside view of the water pump. Stop driving it and repair the water pump. Waiting will only result in a complete engine failure and even more expensive repairs (engine replacement)

Note: if you figure in the number of hours the Edge was idling you would find it most likely exceeded 100K miles of run time.

Just unhook everything and drop the engine and trans as one unit by unbolting the sub frame. It should all drop out as a modular unit. Then remove the front cover on the engine and replace the timing chain, guides and water pump. Then install the new transmission.

Are you referencing the piston boot or the guide pins boots? Were the inside pads worn more than the outside pads?

Do not waste your money. Just change the brake fluid every two years or so.

The PCM also takes into account the ambient air temp on when to charge the battery more or slow down on the charging. Knowing this also helps determine the charge rate. Cold batteries accept charge better than hot batteries. The voltage of 13.7 would be normal for a long drive, with the higher 14.5 in the beginning as I have noticed the same readings on my Forscan. Your usage of power in your battery indicates you should invest in an AGM battery so that you have the deep cycle abilities to operate electrical equipment without damaging the battery. Wet batteries can not handle the repeated power discharges below 50 percent and they die much sooner under those conditions.

I had the same issue check it with a Solar BA7. The alternator is charging enough to keep the battery juiced but under load running all the other systems the alternator can not keep up but barely does so it is real hard to tell. My SolarBA7 showed an occasional red light under load and indicated the alternator was bad. I had to watch it a bit to catch it. I replaced the alternator and have not had the problem since. Spend the money on the OEM alternator. This is one job you do not want to do twice.

Maybe he is one of those people that pre fill the oil filter then added 6 quarts. That would account for a lot.

I was searching your name and it came up. LOL

6 quarts and new filter equals good to go. No issues. Never had a problem.

Wow Never make video with a cell phone. LOL good info.

An oil change and installation of a Fumoto valve to make future oil changes tooless. Gotta like simple things. No more tools needed to change the oil.

Changing the transmission torque mount on a Lincoln MKX which is pretty similar for the Ford Edge both 1st gens.

Humm Crank Shaft Position sensor?

Check the fans. Check the engine oil for signs of coolant in oil (oil changes to a chocolate milk color when mixed with coolant) if you have coolant in oil (stop driving it) Replace water pump 1800.00 dollars

Michelin Premier LTX is speed rated for 148mph FYI

Brake booster leaking will cause vacuum leak and possibly cause starting and operation issues. You need to verify the brake booster. However if it is the issue you need to get it in quickly as I believe the extended warranty may have expired on the brake booster for your model year.

Unless it is a leak the repair at this point is not worth the money or effort. Just clean occasionally keep on motoring.

If the Edge does not start after checking the inertia switch. Check for fuel pressure and check codes? Not unheard of for the crank position sensor to fail in the 1st gens.

Folks just a lesson learned on the Transmission Torque Mount. DO NOT BUY ANCHOR mounts. Just finished with a repair/replacement of a brand new ANCHOR mount that had vibration. Replaced it with the less expensive OEM motorcraft from Ford and the vibration has been eliminated. The anchor mounts are using a very firm hard rubber and this makes them more firm but transfers the energy through the body and steering wheel. The OEM mounts are a composite of two different types of rubber with softer inserts. Lessons learned.