enigma-2

Hope you specified a Ford Approved windshield as Ford is denying warranty on several areas with aftermarket windshields. As far as radio, there was a guy on F150 forum that had several electrical problems after windshield replacment. Traced to water entry at bottom on glass, corroded electrical connectors in instrument consul.

Probably wouldn't qualify as it's not a safety issue (I'm not aware of any FMVSS standard on parking brakes). Definitely a bad design however. Wonder if you complained directly to Ford, that they would offer some assistance (inasmuch as it's obviously a design failure).

Sounds like a PTU. Check the PTU vent for puke. Think I read in a message here, instead of replacing the PTU (rebuilt units are cheaper than new, but the new Gen 1 replacments are modified to last longer), where someone removed the PTU and driveshaft. Essentially converting the car to FWD.

Only thing that comes to mind is new bulbs pull too much current for existing relay. I'd try substituting a different relay (that's rated to handle the current of the new bulbs), contacting the manufacturer for advice (have they had this happen before) or replacing the original bulbs to see if it fixes the problem.

Would something like this work? https://www.rigidaxle.com/products/1981-2014-ford-8-8-10-bolt-ring-and-pinion-gear-set-w-master-bearing-kit

Another item to consider, mpre so in older cars, but ... have your mechanic look at the hoses. If the hose swells when the brakes are applied, a lot of the force is being disappapated in the hose. On my car, had a similar issue. Finally took my car in and ordered new brakes, all around. 130k and back brakes still only 1/2 pads???? Pads, rotors, new fluid, master cylinder check, check hoses, abs for air and power brake vacuum unit. Rock solid brakes now. Turned out it was the back brakes seized on the pins. (Think that's what he found, there was several minor things found, but definitely back brakes was problem).

Sounds like a relay isn't getting the signal to drop out. Perhaps if you could post a schematic of what wiring you changed. We're assuming that everything worked properly before the modification.

"Pushnut" comes to mind. Should be able to find these (or something close) at Advanced Auto in their fastener display isle.

Have you tried a manual open/close to test for binding? Havevyou tried lubing the hinges?

That's not good sign. You losing cooant?

14.2 volts when running shows the charging system is working. Test battety voltage when the car is off (tests just the batterys voltage). Should be getting 12.2 to 12.6 volts. If it's less, assume the battery is not taking a charge. Could be a bad new battery. New batteries need a full charge to srart off. Freezing weather and a short drive home may not be sufficient to get an adequate charge. In really cold weather, batteries not charged will freeze and short the plates together. And it's been really cold in certain parts of the US last week.

I was looking at the FordPass app. Did you see the info it collects and distributes? INFORMATION THAT'S SHARED: Precise location. Email address User ID User interactions Device ID "Other" stuff DATA THAT'S COLLECTED: Full name Email address User ID Address Phone number Sexual orientation ??????? And "other" stuff ????????? Health and fitness information Copies of your photos Files and docs, and Interactions of user with app. I *think* we've discovered who Big Brother really is!

Must be something you hate about your car. That IS the object of this post after all. (Can't get off that easily). lol

What? I have it on my 2009! (Although it works a little differently). With mine, I simply kick my foot on the bottom of the cargo area and yell "Hey Linda, open the hatch". Pop's right open.

Could be cheaper ones, didn't really look very closely. But then again, isn't anything you really need. (Esp at those prices).

In addition to the directions Haz published, a guy in tbe explorer forem wrote about disconnecting the antenna and the exact procedure to do it (what panels to pry, etc. Now tbis is for the explorer but could be similar. Might be useful. https://www.explorerst.org/threads/tailgate-disabling-the-kick-to-open-or-close-motion-feature-full-pictures.1938/

Yes. But you'll need a resistor to prevent what's known as hyper-flashing. Your current bulbs are 3137NAK. These bulbs are CANBUS compatible and should work fine (there are others, you may wish to shop around). https://a.co/d/5QPylyk

I have a platinum white 2009 mkx, oem scuff plates, plenty of kids and passengers passed through it. No scratches on the painted edges. The scuff plates are scuffed, but who cares? I'd say, live with it and put a good quality of wax on the paint. (Mine is still holding up from the last time I had it in for a detail).

It's my understanding that it very much is a thing. We have fewer blue cones in our eyes which means we don't see as well with blue light. Plus, blue, because of its shorther wavelength, focuses at a different point on the retnia. Our eyes see best in a yellow-green light. (In-fact, only 2% of the cones see blueish light). You can see better detail in a dark setting with 4300k light. Unrelated, I was reading a study that discussed that the old-fashioned 7" round sealed beams actually put more light on the road than our newer polycarbonate housings. (But the newer one illuminate the sides of the roads better).

After reading your post I checked the Lincoln Maintenance Manual and there is no recommendation for changing the O2 sensors at any specific intervals. Checked the service manual and same/same. Don't disagree but thought it strange they don't require changing or testing for age. They used to trigger a check engine at specific intervals for that. Wonder what changed?

A lot of these cleaning products are not designec to be used straight on interior materials. For example I use Chemical Guys All Purpose Cleaner and it needs to be deluted 20:1 to use. Used full strength can damage to surface of vinys and leathers. I dont think that the use of any cleaner would help the situation, think I'd try a Magic Eraser (gently) and try to clean off the surface. Think a steering wheel is a composit of both vinyl and leather. Most likely you damaged the surface coating on the leather. It may be possible to retreat the surface with a sealer designed for this purpose (I've never tried this). Try contacting a upholstery shop in your area to see if they know what might work. Otherwise another way to sidestep the problem might be something like this. https://a.co/d/8sBQFaA

The 2-ohm coil will deliver high sound output (2 ohm draws more current than 4-ohms), but may distort at high volume (depending on quality). The one in my 09 MKX with THX doesn't distort). A 4-ohm speaker isn't as loud (after all it draws 1/2 the current as a 2-ohm) but it also won't distort at high volumes. A lot has to do with the design of the amp. Usually if the amp and speaker are designed as a matching pair there shouldn't be any problems. As the speakers are rated in impedance and not resistance, you can't measure it by ohming it with a VOM.

Ford discontinued map updates for all cars over 10 years old. I called Here about a year ago and they concured. (No more updates, sorry). If I get in an area where the map software is out of date, I pop up Google Maps on my phone. It would be nice to update every couple of years, but with modern cell phones, it's no big deal.

This is an OEM fob if that's what you're looking for. (Battery not included). $31 +(1) CR2032 battery + shipping. https://www.keylessentryremotefob.com/ford-edge-oem-4-button-key-fob-oucd6000022/ The OEM fob's for remote start (there are three types) are all discontinued. You may be able to find a used on on Ebay.