enigma-2

Put the car in accessory mode, radio will turn on, no CD in radio, press AND HOLD the "eject" button and while holding press and hold the right seek button. Radio will enter the "all around speaker mode". Be ready for the speakers to start blaring out tones. (This will tell you if the radio and amplifier is working.) But in lieu of this, you could try a soft reset. Settings->General->scroll all the way down until you see "Reset". (Make certain you disconnect any USB devices.) This resets the ACM (radio) back to factory defaults and you will lose all of your personal settings. (You will have to pair your phone again.) But it may restore your sound. If this doesn't work, try resitting the Sync system by pulling the Sync fuse. Think it's #32 in your car. (10A.) Keep out for a few minutes. This allows to module to discharge and reset. (Basically it drains the capacity parts.) While you're down there, transversing through the Forbidden Forest of of her nether regions, check fuse #28. It's for the amplifier; only thing on that fuse. (20A.)

Just a FYI, one other item you might take into account when installing aftermarket speakers, is interference with the AnvanceTrac stability control systems. Some guys are not aware of this potential problem. For your reference: In addition, installing any stereo loudspeakers may interfere with and adversely affect the AdvanceTrac with RSC system. Install any aftermarket stereo loudspeaker as far as possible from the front center console, the tunnel, and the front seats in order to minimize the risk of interfering with the AdvanceTrac with RSC sensors. Reducing the effectiveness of the AdvanceTrac with RSC system could lead to an increased risk of loss of vehicle control, vehicle rollover, personal injury and death.

This is the test equipment I use to isolate charging systems (and battery condition.) https://a.co/d/031xwiW8

TED unit on drivers seat bottom failed. (Both passenger units failed last year. They were replaced under the extended warranty and cost $0.) When switch clicked on, nothing happened and leds turn off after a minute. Troubleshooting verified the TED unit failed. Had dealer replace both seat bottom and seat back TED units (when one fails, the other usually follows within a few months.) Seat heats and cools like new now. Only cost ¼ the cost of the car when new. <grunt>

"Factory Authorized Reproduction"

https://www.ebay.com/itm/145691077488?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4Z2ZzMejRae&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

In all honesty, what good is it? 09 — Car starts, all good. Doesn't, need a jump. Need a jump, check and/or replace battery. (Actually it probably just needs water. These maintenance free battery's still need to have water added.) Want to disable start/stop, disconnect the battery condition connector at the battery. Don't really need half the junk the slap on these cars anyway.

There are 7 recalls on the 2017 Edge. https://www.kbb.com/ford/edge/2017/recall/#:~:text=recall 17V-427.-,Summary%3A,may have been inadequately welded.&text=Enter Your VIN-,Tip%3A Recalls don't affect every vehicle of the,same year%2C make and model. I'd imagine that there are hundreds of small changes (some good, some to save money.)

No signature in the mobile version. (I access the forum via cell phone. Bet several other do as well.)

One other possibility, contact your local Ford dealer's body shop parts dept. They can send a request to all dealers in the country. There's always a possibility (sight of course) that a dealer has one in stock. (Possibly ordered in the past but never installed). Never hurts to try. My local dealer was able to track down a part in a different state for me.

I'm thinking that the "full sized" spare is only 17" and doesn't match up in height with a standard size tire. Also it's not intended to be used for more than 50 miles. (And has a max 50 mph rating.) Other than that, at least on my mkx, the wheel well is only large enough to fit the donut spare. (A full size tire doesn't fit below the floor.)

Another possibility is that's it's a navigation alert from Sync maps. It's been found in another forum that it will alert you of traffic conditions (even if you don't have a route planned.) Next time you hear the double-chime, jump over to Sync maps and see if there is some sort of traffic alert on the screen.

Try disabling the door keypad in the post above yours. The most common cause for keypad flashing, other than normal indication of failed entry (¹) is water getting into the keypad between the seal and B-Pillar trim. (Another guy with a 150 tracked his leak to a moonrise seal leaking). (¹) The keypad will go into an anti-scan mode if you enter the wrong code seven times (35 consecutive button presses). This mode disables the keypad for one minute, and the keypad lamp will flash.

What it states in my owners manual "It is recommended that the two front tires or two rear tires generally be replaced as a pair." I've read that different tires on the same axle can have different tread and throw off the AdvanceTrac sensors. (You see this when you drive using the spare.) Personally I replace all four when one is damaged and there's at least 50% wear. (I like a smooth, quiet ride.)

Looks like a good quality valve. Wonder why they state that it's not supposed to be connected to an air compressor..?

Daughter called me yesterday, needed help to put new wiper blades on her 13 Escape. Ol' dad ran over to show her how simple it is. Who in the hell designed the wiper blades on the Escorts...???? Evil bastard sitting at the back of the office, pissed off over being passed over and forced to design wiper blades, snickering quietly while he thought of all the helpess suckers who are trying to figure out the Escort's reversed informalflummox blade adapter. Blades came with five adapters and instructions written in Pig Latin. Oh sure, there were pictures, but nothing that matched the five adapters. Took 20 minutes..! OK, finally figured it out, simple when you get the right adapter, and connected to the arm properly (can connect in more than one way.) So next we check her tires. I drug out my 20 volt Dewalt air compressor that I carry on my aft storage compartment. Made the job easy. After she finished the four tires, I told her she still had one to go. She argued that she did all four, I smiled and kept saying one more. Then a small light bulb lit and she figured it out. We checked the spare and, .... 5 psi. Never been checked since it was put in the car at the factory. Even Ford dealer wasn't checking it. It pumped to 60 psi and held, so all good. Think everyone forgets the spare. Out of sight, out of mind. Every tire can lose 5 psi a year, even if it's not used. (Especially if it's pumped to 60 psi to begin with.) I checked mine last year, 5 psi. Used the Craftsman compressor and couldn't get it over 12 psi. Looked closer and discovered that the fill valve had dry rotted and cracked. Took it to Ford to get a new tire valve installed, and was told that no one ever brought in a spare to a new valve before. (At least they couldn't remember anyone asking for this.) "No one ever checks their spare".

Ask HAZ (on this board) if he'll post a copy of the 2007 and the 2013 wiring. Should be simple after checking the wiring schematics. (He's been a lifesaver to dozens in this forum with service information.)

Rear seats were optional on the 23. (Had to by the optional passenger comfort option. However that package also came with rear seat, color coordinated, cup holders.) 😉

Does the interior lights dim and go off when opening & closing the drivers door? (Thinking one possibility may be the drivers door closed switch had failed open and either disconnected, or had failed closed.) Believe both doors are wired in parallel. Opening either should kill the audio control unit.

Think the OP just wanted to eliminate the hands-free operation. Disabling the hatch also turns off other power opening functions. (Think it does, never tried it on mine.)

If you want a Ford Edge with all the goodies, ya gotta by a Lincoln. 🥴

Never used it on my 2009 MKX. Not even once ...... 😊

You can buy a printed version on Ebay for $70. (They are also selling complete packages with case and all literature. https://www.ebay.com/itm/165220348427?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=8E_DSWquS-q&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Everyone has their favorites, all depends on what you want in your finished installation. I'd recommend you start by reading this article from Car & Driver Magazine on dash cams, 2024. https://www.caranddriver.com/car-accessories/g46063800/best-dash-cams-tested/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=arb_ga_cd_md_bm_comm_org_us_g46063800&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwrvyxBhAbEiwAEg_KgjO2U3L-obq75WsecUnPMW88xk4Gn47lZvksEmgrY4C2V4v30UZnThoCCU0QAvD_BwE As for mounting, I've found that a mirror mount is superior to the suction cup mounts (they all fall, no matter how well their installed.) Example: https://rammount.com/collections/car-truck-ford-edge For wiring, I'd recommend using a quality wire harness plugged into your rear view mirror connector. Shortens installation to a couple of minutes and turns the camera off when the timed circuit turns off (or door opened.) For example: Dongar Dashcam Power Adapter (5-pin Type F) for Select Ford Vehicles. Compatible with Mach-E, Bronco Sport, Explorer and More. Built-in USB Power Source, Connects to Rearview Mirror, Easy to Install https://a.co/d/5aj6IQ3

Simple. Don't drive over 80. (groan) Seriously, could be lots of things. Either buy an inexpensive code reader of go to one of the auto parts store and have the code(s) read. That's your starting point.