enigma-2

As for the key, I bought mine off Ebay from a Ford dealer. Here's one listing for an OEM key blank. (Personally I would avoid the cheaper Chinese knockoffs. (Too important an item should you be in a distant location and find it's gone kaput). https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-2011-2012-2013-2014-2015-FORD-EXPLORER-4B-KEYLESS-REMOTE-UNCUT-HEAD-KEY-FOB/351871465451?fits=Year%3A2013%7CMake%3AFord%7CModel%3AEdge&epid=1611236637&hash=item51ed2c77eb:g:XToAAOSwzaJX-oWt:sc:USPSFirstClass!46526!US!-1 You WILL have to take the key to either a locksmith or local dealer to get it programmed to the car. You could also price the FOB, cutting and programming through the locksmith and see if there's a big difference in price or not. And here's a video on where to find the factory door code. Remember that the previous owner's code is still programmed into your car and should be over-ridden as soon as possible (for security purposes). The procedure is simple and in your owner's manual.

It looks more like a gasket used to prevent water from migrating under the front of the spoiler. Item Part Number Description 1 W651016-S Spoiler nut covers (2 required) 2 W621926-S Spoiler nuts (5 required) 3 010807 Spoiler 4 Spoiler retainers (part of 010807) 5 021A46 Spoiler gasket 1. Remove the liftgate trim panel. For additional information, refer to Section 501-05 . 2. Disconnect the electrical connector and the rear windshield washer hose from the rear spoiler. 3. Remove the 5 rear spoiler nuts. ° Remove the 2 nut covers. ° Remove the 5 nuts. ° To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in). 4. Place a piece of tape on the liftgate to protect the paint. 5. NOTE: There are 4 pin-type retainers on the bottom of the spoiler. When removing the spoiler it is difficult to access the retainers to release them from the liftgate. It may be necessary to pry upward on the rear spoiler to release it from the retainers. Do not pry on the window. ° Remove the rear spoiler. ° Place a pry bar between the liftgate and the spoiler. 6. To install, reverse the removal procedure. edit: this was for a 2009 edge, think it's the same.

Thats surprising. What purpose, drain slots?

Kind of sounds like someone programmed in the wrong tire size.

Door stills pop off. Pry with body tool slowly. If clips stay on the sill tabs, take off and replace before reinstalling the sill. (Service manual requires replacing clips when sill removed). BTW why are you removing the door sills. Door lock ground wire does not run through there?

Does the Mustang seats have side airbags?

Some tires get loud and rough after 29k or so. Had a set of Michelin's that made me think I had bad motor mounts after only 20k. What tires are you running, how many miles?

What possible purpose would it serve? Just judging by looking at the photos, it looks like it was ripped out.

It seems that the common link is the ECM. Have you checked the ECM for dirty, corroded or broken wire connections? Possibly a reflash/reset? .

Tranny's red, so that would be my guess. If it were me, I'd call the dealer first thing Monday morning and ask him. I'd push how afraid I am of being stranded, etc. They may authorize (pay for) the tow to protect the transmission from being damaged. You "could" top it off, but how many of us keep the correct transmission fluid around for just such a possibility?

https://youtu.be/1MGSv8dQmtQ

Curb feelers?Spinner hubcaps? Fart cannon? Ouh, ouh I got it, pin stripes !!! (Sorry, got carried away as you covered so much). Edit: door lock protector cover? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182341343113

As you didn't mention checking the mass airflow sensor ... also the airflow leading into the MAF, esp aftermarket air filters and assoc. Like WWWPerfA_NOW asked, what codes are showing?

Mine are also on their third year. (Wife's as well).

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Power glitch. Next time try resetting the HVAC conot roller by putting the system into the diagnosis mode. To do this, press the climate control power button and the defrost button at the same time, hold for a few seconds, then press the power button one more time. If you see 88 88 in the diplay, they system resets and all is good.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oJHgBb74P2STQ Haven't killed anyone in 48 years. Could send you a nasty, Trump-style tweet however.

Whats shape is the rest of the car in? How long do you intend to keep it? If it's in decent shape, and you intend to drive it for several more years, I would go with a certified rebuild. That way, it's been torn down, cleaned internally and everything's been done. Look at it as if you were buying a nice used car for transportation. Can you get one of $3,500? No. And the extra grand gives the confidence in knowing you're good for at least another 100-150k miles. (Who knows what's going on inside a used engine? Blocked oil journals? Corrosion? Oil pan full of gunk? Old oil in the wee places?).

The interior lights are powered by the smart junction box (fuse #25 in a 2009 mkx). If the interior lights are not working when you open the door, it's probaby related to fuse 25 or the battery saver relay in the smart junction box. (Look in your owner's manual for your correct fuse number. May be different than mine). If the interior lights do not come on when you turn on the switch on the interior lamps center (headlight switch), that switch, wiring or connections are bad. If the lights do not come on when you use the overhead console switch, it's in that switch, wiring or connections. If neither switch turns on the interior lights, check fuse no. 9 (again 2009 mkx).

In my 09 mkx, there's a clutch in the liftgate motor. Its my understanding when the clutch starts to slip (indicating the liftgate is blocked) the clutch slips triggering the liftgate "position sensor". (Internal to the liftgate drive motor assembly). They may have changed it on later years, but I doubt it.

Think of it as a slip clutch. As it closes if something is blocking it, the motor still runs but the tailgate stops. The clutch continues and starts to slip. When it reaches a certain travel distance, triggers the reversal. As you sensed to tailgate, you probably began to move out of its way and the tailgate movement was not impared sufficiently to trigger the sensor. (I don't think it's actually a slip clutch, but operates like one).

I use alcohol wipes and follow with 303 Aerospace Protectant to block ultraviolet light from deteriorating the rubber.

I remember reading in a different forum that there was a TSB for the 07-08 F150's for this problem. Same conditions. Fix was to reprogram the transmission. Don't remember if it affected the Edge's transmission or not. Follow up: looked it up, it's TSB 8-14-3. They reflashed the Power Control Module. Don't think theyre the same transmission though, but wouldn't hurt to talk directly to you dealers transmission specialist about doing this. A lot of problems develop because some damn computer needs a fresh reboot (relearn).

Per Ford: Vehicles recalled for driver-side inflators 2005-14 Ford Mustang 2005-06 Ford GT 2004-06 Ford Ranger built in North America Vehicles recalled for passenger-side inflators 2005-13 Ford Mustang 2004-11 Ford Ranger built in North America 2006-12 Ford Fusion 2007-10 Ford Edge 2006 Lincoln Zephyr 2007-12 Lincoln MKZ 2007-10 Lincoln MKX 2006-11 Mercury Milan