enigma-2

Forgot to mention I also carry a Dewalt inflator. Much faster than those small compressors and battery operated. Usually carry a 5ah battery as that's more than enough to inflate a dozen tires. Jumper battery is a GooLoo 20,800 mah unit. Holds charge for over a year if not used.

Depend on how fast you were moving. I accidentally had the liftgate up and pulled into the garage. Top hit the bottom of the garage door. I was moving really slow and it didnt hurt the liftgate at all. (Made a hell of a thunk however.) If you hit a concrete wall, if it were still opening, I'd imagine the hatch would simply reverse when the hatch realized there was an object present. May scratch the paint however. To make it manual, you can just turn off the automatic function. On mine (Lincoln MKX), there's an on/off setting in the information center. When turned off, it must be opened and closed manually.

I completely forgot about the 4-way. Used to carry one. Great piece of useful equipment. (Still carry a jumper battery to this day in liew of cables.) Gotta use care nowadays; a 4-way has an entirely different meaning than it did years ago. Wuoo wuoo..!

Only thing I can think of that's unique to this door is the specific door open circuit. 1. Does your car have an illuminated scuff sill plate on passenger side? Opening passenger door triggers interior lighting which stays on for a while. While opening drivers door also triggers lights, if you bought the car used, a former owner (or dealer) may have disconnected the druvers door switch because it was bad. 2. Does opening drivers door trigger interior lighting? 3. Any electrical modifications to your car? Any at all? 4. Did you check the wire bundle passing from the car frane into the door for frayed insulation ?

From page 183 of the the 2013 owners manual: SAFETY PRECAUTIONS WARNING: Do not overfill the fuel tank. The pressure in an overfilled tank may cause leakage and lead to fuel spray and fire. From page 189: Allow no more than two automatic click–offs when filling. Never overfill the tank when refilling. Just fill the tank until the pump clicks off. If you overfill your tank, it can cover the vapor intake hole with liquid gas, which can then be sucked into the charcoal canister.

.... changing the floor mounted headlight switch, filing the point set flat then setting the gap on the high spot of the distributor cam, setting the choke before cranking, checking the oil & antifreeze level and tire pressure evey time you when get gas, checking the water level in the battery .....

I used to run around with a guy on high school in my junior & senior years (64/65). He had a 58 Olds. Cherry. You can do a lot more than burn outs in that monster. Girls loved it..! (I had a 56 Ford Vicky. Not cherry, but it ran. Sort of.)

Post jogged my memory, been a year. (I use a label maker and put the date of cabin air filter on inside of glove box as I tend to forget when last changed. Of course I forget to check the label as I rarely open the glove box. sigh.) So I ordered a new filter and installed it. Use Motorcraft as they use a two layer filter, better for pollen and little stuff. Plus I spray it with a spray that causes the filter to turn into an electrostatic filter. (Wife has allergies & is sensitive to pollen.) Used to use charcoal filters with coconut fiber, but found it failed to filter smoke (fall, burning leaves). Anyway, only took two minutes. On the 09 MKX, open cover, unhook tension string, lift glove box out of opening (tilt and it lifts right out), and pop open the filter door. (Hardest part is getting that little tension string off and on.) Phew, thank goodness that's over with. Time to grab a sandwich and watch the latest episode of Gunsmoke. Retirement is hell.

Shouldn't have any problems. Besides, it's just an AM/FM antenna, no one listens to that anyways. (evil snicker). The little bump at the back on the hatch is the navigation/GPS and Sirus unit.

Have an 09 MKX, little "whip" antenna at front, BAMR. I wash the car in a local car wash every week (in the winter, get the salt off.) Ultimate wash; nothing but the best for "sweet pee". Brushes, rug-type strips dragging across the top, spinning roller brushes, huge blowers to dry. Never had a problem. (Well once, ripped off the drivers wiper blade. Needed new blades anyways.) The side brushes used to fold the side mirrors in, but they adjusted the pressure and no more probs. For whatever it's worth, the antenna is easy to replace, just screws off. <$20 oem on Amazon. Whoever told you the remove it before a car wash doesn't know what he's talking about.

Is there enough airflow in such a small space? Often times putting an electronic component in a small compartment will result in a high heat condition, shortening its life.

While Sync is calling home and reporting its nav settings, I don't see this as a biggie. Reason I wrote about this was the amount of personal information Online was passing and getting back to the woman's insurance company. I get monthly updates from Google showing where I've been traveled in the previous month. Shows my travels on Google maps, in detail. By itself its no big deal, but ..... who else is seeing this? Law enforcement can get access (not that I would care), just that "big brother" is always watching.

What exactly is the Continental doing? If one car triggers the homelink opener ok, it can only be the visor on the Continental. Have you tried reprogramming it? (Have to program both cars at same time.)

Ah yes Grasshopper, Sync 3 does transmit your nav information back to Ford. The information I posted above came directly off the Ford website. (But the woman in the story was being tracked by her OnStar account, and we don't have OnStar. Yet.) As for the black box, it's located inside the Airbag Control Module. This is usually located under the center instrument stack and works with the PCM to detect what's going on during a very short periods of time, in ten thousandths of one second or shorter. If the data being given to the ACM, with its own accelerometer, wakes up the algorithm inside the ACM and says “something very bad is happening!” Then pop goes the airbag and the Event Data Recorder starts recording all kinds of information in the form of hexadecimal data (code). This data can only be read by manufacturers, law enforcement, insurance companies, private collision investigators and their lawyer clients. You need special equipment to access and download the EDR. Ford runs Bosh CDR hardware.

I was watching a YouTube video on a young woman who found that her insurance rates had gone up by 80%. Although she had had not accidents nor tickets. She decided to apply at other insurance companies and none offered better rates, and one refused to offer her insurance indicating that she was high risk. She decided to investigate and found that her OnStar had been recording her driving habits and sending the data back to GM (or it's designated collection site.) They in-turn were selling her data to insurance companies. She requested her data, and received over 200 printed pages of tracking information on her driving. Information such as acceleration, braking, speeding, virtually everything you don't want your insurance company to know. So I got curious. Does Ford do anything like this? Well, if you have Ford or Lincoln Sync 3 or 4? Yup. SYNC 3 (and 4) with navigation obtains • A unique user ID (assigned by Ford) • Your current GPS location and planned route and/or destination • Your address or point of interest search requests • Your search results selections • Information about your use of the location search service • It's performance, and your related actions and selections. • Telenav (the company supplying these services) may use this information to provide, improve, and enhance its products and services. • Also, the name associated with your FordPass account may be shared with other FordPass account holders. • In addition, we may share de-identified information in accordance with applicable law. For example, information where the vehicle is operated may be shared with third parties. We will only retain your personal information for so long as reasonably necessary to fulfill legitimate business purposes. (Which is forever, of course.) One user wrote Ford to our out of data collection. Here's what he received in an email. "As you requested, your vehicle has been removed from your FordPass™ App and Ford Owner account. If your vehicle is equipped with FordPass Connect™, data from your vehicle, including location information, may continue to be sent to Ford. To deactivate vehicle data collection, perform a master reset in your vehicle by going into SYNC 3 General settings and selecting Master Reset. For more information, please see the SYNC 3 section of the owner’s manual for your vehicle." So I'm sitting here in my 2009, Lincoln MKX, darling little teenager that she is, with her Sync 1 thinking I'm safe. Nope. She doesn't have an on-board modem. Ahhh, she says, don't need one. She's still talking to Sirius XM. Location, location, location. And .... (drum beats) ... my Verizon cell phone which is coupled to the head unit, Sync and Verizon. And all those lovely little apps built into the phone. It's a two-way conversation. Not feeling like such a smart ass now. Looking at Sync 4. "SYNC 4A will collect information about your daily interactions with SYNC and use this information to make smart one-touch suggestions on the user interface. (Can you say AI)? The SYNC 4 Suggestions feature uses the following sources of information, aggregated over time, to build your SYNC experience: • Call history • Radio listening preferences • Driving history SYNC 4A available machine-learning capability (AI) can learn your preferences as you use your vehicle. It can support: • Predictive calling • Predictive radio • Predictive destination • Suggestive search for parking or electric vehicle charging locations

As fuse 29 blows immediately, it indicates a short. The fuse covers the radio, sync module, multifunction display and electronic finish panel. As the EFP is most exposed, that would br my first suspect. Liquid, dirt get in? As only $65 on ebay, could try parts cannon to solve. If not, requires unplugging everything connected to Fuse 29, replacing with new fuse and see if it pops. If it does, wiring. If not, replug in each component until the fuse flows.

Never liked charging by USB, takes too long. I only use the power plug anymore. Easier to plug in as well. (Plus it stays on when the car is shut off, able to continue charging when having lunch, etc.)

This site talks about updating using Sync 3. Nothing for sync 2. https://community.cyanlabs.net/t/is-there-a-map-for-nigeria-west-africa-in-sync-3-4-and-can-i-change-my-region-from-na-to-west-africa-during-the-update/4178

If you have a 2009 or 2010, it won't work. The DVDs have a key burned into the application code tied to your radio. It checks your radio for this code before installing.

Does the IPAD actually charge of a standard USB port? Although the Red requires +5vdc and Black is common, I thought that the IPAD required 2.0 & 2.75 on the D+ & D- pins to initiate charging?

May not be actually related, this happens to my ACU every once in awhile. It happens right after I start to car and lasts for a few minutes. In my case, the radio is off line, upgrading. There's a very small visual indicator along the bottom informing me. (States "upgrading".) Nothing in the manual about this. One of those things Lincoln let's you figure out for yourselves. Probably not your problem, but it may happen to others occasionally and thought I'd mention when you hear no audio, check the screen to see if there's a mention of "upgrading" present.

Power point or are you talking about Sync 1? I've never had a problem with either, don't really use Sync all that much, phone connection and map directions mostly. Not buggy on mine. Power points work perfectly (what can possibly go wrong?) knock on wood

Like to add that on gen one vehicles, the power points are hot continously when the engine is off. (They never shut off.) Discovered this the hard way when I left a radar detector plugged in over a weekend.

I've used both silicone and 303 in the past. 303 seems to penetrate better, but silicone tends to last longer. What I've learned is to first clean the weather stripping before using protectant. I use alcohol wipes.