enigma-2

Does the IPAD actually charge of a standard USB port? Although the Red requires +5vdc and Black is common, I thought that the IPAD required 2.0 & 2.75 on the D+ & D- pins to initiate charging?

May not be actually related, this happens to my ACU every once in awhile. It happens right after I start to car and lasts for a few minutes. In my case, the radio is off line, upgrading. There's a very small visual indicator along the bottom informing me. (States "upgrading".) Nothing in the manual about this. One of those things Lincoln let's you figure out for yourselves. Probably not your problem, but it may happen to others occasionally and thought I'd mention when you hear no audio, check the screen to see if there's a mention of "upgrading" present.

Power point or are you talking about Sync 1? I've never had a problem with either, don't really use Sync all that much, phone connection and map directions mostly. Not buggy on mine. Power points work perfectly (what can possibly go wrong?) knock on wood

Like to add that on gen one vehicles, the power points are hot continously when the engine is off. (They never shut off.) Discovered this the hard way when I left a radar detector plugged in over a weekend.

I've used both silicone and 303 in the past. 303 seems to penetrate better, but silicone tends to last longer. What I've learned is to first clean the weather stripping before using protectant. I use alcohol wipes.

Don't know how to fix,, but I seen same problem in other Ford forums. Seems daily common. Both IPhone and Android. Concensus seems to be that it started with update. Conflicts with Sync4. Has it always done this, or started at/near specific date? If date, check update dates on iPhone to see if they coincide.

Years ago, an old mechanic told me it was caused by metal on the pads/rotors. Asked where it came from, he said it was usually rust from the brake assy. Breaks off and falls on rotor where it's trapped. As it only happened on one wheel, I'd clean off the rust of all parts, when replacing pads/rotors. (As a precaution.) Another mechanic told me that because it had only happened on the right side of my car, must have hit a mud puddle that had sand/dirt in it. The sand splashed up on the brakes, getting stuck on rotor, trapped between pads and rotors. (Pearls of wisdom from grease monkeys)

Think I'd throw on an inexpensive car cover. Easier than bug and tar remover.

NHTSA Recall ID Number : 24T001 Synopsis : Wheel Group Holding, LLC (WGH) is recalling certain AMP Terrain Attack R/T, Terrain Attack A/T, and Terrain Pro A/T tires with load ranges SL, XL, C, D, E, and F. The tires are labeled as snow tires, but do not have sufficient traction to perform in all snow weather conditions. As such, these tires fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 139, "New Pneumatic Radial Tires for Light Vehicles." Tires that do not provide sufficient traction in snow can increase the risk of a crash. The remedy is currently under development. Interim owner notification letters explaining the safety risk are expected to be mailed by May 20, 2024. A second notice will be sent once the remedy has been finalized. Owners may contact WGH customer service at 1-626-363-1666 and/or AMPQuestions@thewheelgroup.com.

There it is. Used to be at the top. Now I have to thumb through all the posts to mark the forum read (I don't read topics that don't apply to me.) Hate, hate, hate changes that don't accomplish anything.

Not trying to mark the entire site read, only the specific forum. Grunt.....!

Tell your old shop to by pair of 14-1/4 & 15-1/2 mm sockets. Made to fit enlarged nuts. ~Enlarged nuts are a fact of life~ .

No joy over new site

Nope, not there. I'm using the android version.

Ever get around to fixing this? When I origionally read it, it guessed it was a dirty/corroded lock mechanism that was causing too much resistance for the actuators. ...? If you still haven't done anything, I'd try spraying the latch mechanism with brake clean. Or is it break clean? (You still kicking?)

Sounds like the car is recieving a lock button signal. Most likely there's another stray signal nearby that's triggering it. Signal close to the frequency of your existing remotes. Try reprogramming your remotes to see if that stops it.

Hate these changes. New and improved is not always better.

Don't care what we call you,eh? Ok, from now on we'll call you "he who walks under squatting Buffalo".

Also check the grounds on the sensors. Believe someone else found that corrosion caused the sensor array to fail resulting in no sensor detection.

Yea, I'm a newbie as well. TEN YEARS and I'm a newbie with one year! Thousands of threads and I'm a newbie. I'm pissed!!!!!

While reading through this thread, the thought raced through my tiny brainpan that I should be sarcastic and post a picture of my Sync-1 screen. grunt, grunt, grunt Becoming serious, I really don't miss any of the later features of the later versions. (Especially Sync-2.) For me, I really only use Sync for •phone calls, •maps and driving instructions, •gas prices or •restaurants along the route, •weather maps (infrequent), •traffic conditions (infrequent) and •listening to CNN, MS-NBC or FOX NEWS. Some 60's and 50's music, Beatles channel (these all get old fairly quickly), Road Dog Trucking, Willie's Roadhouse, and especially the comedy channels. I don't use verbal instructions (probably the only ones I remember are "phone" & "call home" or similar.) For me it's actually easier to press a few buttons to set the location or adjust the audio level or change stations. Can do it without looking. (I'm not a fan of having buttons on a video screen.) OK, I feel unburdened. Exit, stage left.

Can it be related to the lumousity of the backup light brightness?

Excellent write up. Very informative. I would like to add some specifics for reference that eutectic solder (Sn-Pb, solder with lead) melts and flows at a temperature of 340℃, (644°F) whereas lead-free solder (Sn-0.7Cu) melts and flows at around 380℃ (716°F). Something to check for when purchasing a soldering iron. This is close to the maximum temperature for soldering. Also some heat sensitive components could be damaged if subjected to these high temperatures. Not to mention that at these temperatures, soldering iron tips wear out fairly quickly. (I only use lead solder (40%) or silver solder for repairs.)

You have a leak. Take it to a "good" mechanic (I prefer my local Ford dealer, but it costs more), and have him smoke to vapor lines. Only way to pin it down is with a smoke machine.

Pulled this off another forum. Yes an exhaust leak within 24 inches after the downstream O2 sensors can trigger P0420 and P0430 codes. A flex joint in the exhaust system sometimes only leaks when the power train is under load as the engine twists on it's mounts. May be worth checking out..