enigma-2

Definitely send it back for the core refund. Fixing the old unit involves pouring more money into it and then it sits on a shelf for .... years? Your tying up $$ and still ending up with a possibility a unit that doesn't fit a future engine.

Beed discussed here at length. Personally I feel Ford would have spec'ed a lower temp thermostat if it helped performance, emissions or milage. It's spec'ed at 190° for a reason. Anyway:

Probably. But they ticket here in Indiana for dark tint.

Nice, we can't do it here in Indiana, 15% is illegal.

The car smartkey transmitter's signal is strong enough to go through the home walls, especially if it was left near an outside wall. The signal gets picked it up by the relay receiver outside the home. His relay receiver then transmits the code to the other crook who stands near the car drivers window and uses the recieved code to unlock the door and then start the car. It's called a "relay station attack". Some modern cars have methods to prevent this, but older cars are still susceptible.

Sorry to hear that. By the looks of it, I may be a candidate for this someday. VA just sent me in for a MRI. Result was I'm suffering from old age. Hope you're getting along ok, know it's difficult.

See if this helps. One thing that can cause this is to manually close the liftgate, but not latch it. To reset the power liftgate: 1. Disconnect the battery for 20 seconds then, reconnect the battery. 2. Manually close and fully latch the liftgate. 3. Power open the liftgate by using the integrated keyhead transmitter, or the instrument panel control button. Note: If the power liftgate system is turned off in the message center, the system cannot be activated with the outside release handle or rear cargo area control button. The system will need to be turned on to resume operation with the outside release handle or rear cargo area control button. The power liftgate is still operational through the use of the remote entry transmitter and instrument panel button when the power liftgate is turned off in the message center.”

This happened to my MKX once years ago. I stopped it by spraying WD-40 on the weatherstripping and then wiping to just leave a film. (WD-40 repells water.)

There's also Sirius XM. Not as high fidelity, but good selection of categories.

I'd try connecting the tweeter to the woofer through the use of jumpers with alligator clips; as a test to see if it's just a missing harness. If it does, it's just the harness. If it doesn't, it's either the tweeter or the crossover on the woofer. There has to be a reason the harness was removed, it would never have left the factory without it. Did you buy the car used?

You can contact the Ford Customer Relationship Center at (800) 392-3673. According to the Ford website, reporting a Successful SYNC Update is completed by following the following instructions. Insert the flash drive you used for the update into your computer. Go to the SYNC and Navigation Updates page. Scroll down to Step Three: Confirm Update. Click on Browse for log file. Browse the flash drive you used to update your SYNC system. Select the XML log file in the "SYNCMyRide" folder, for example, sync_48474463_1A2B3C4D5E6F8G8H9.xml. Your file name will differ because it will contain your Vehicle Identification Number.

I'll take a guess as to what's going on. The switches are mechanical switches with embedded resistors. When you press a switch, it sends a current flow at a specific voltage to the ACU. When a switch fails, it's normally only one switch. As you have multiple switches failing, I think it's safe to assume it's probably not the switch unit. UNLESS.. there's a corrosion problem in the unit or at the connector. As some signal is getting through, think we can assume the clock spring is functioning properly. That takes us to the either a failure in the APU or APIM (I'm not certain where the signal is processed in the 14.) My initial guess is corrosion somewhere. I'd pull the switchpack and start looking for corrosion there. Then the clockspring unit.

Check to see if you have selected "make primary" to default to your phone.

These are designed for the 20 titanium but require drilling. (I don't believe that I've ever seen any no-drill for the titanium or sport.) https://www.ebay.com/itm/284337160678?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=i26t0jm7sbm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

States on page that they don’t fit the Edge titanium with the elite pkg.

Ever get this fixed?

Northern Indiana, they love to use salt. Then even salt the roads if it's just cloudy. No undercoat. Use one of those electronic metal protectors (that's used to reseal the galvanizing) -AND- run it through the car wash (which has a under spray) anytime after they salted the roads. During the winter that usually means once a week. No rust (other than the driveshaft.)

I know it sounds silly, but I use my Brother labeler to print out a small strip and label when I changed my air cleaner element (date and milage) & cabin air cleaner element. Surprising how easy it is to forget these things.

These problems can really be hard to pin down. One area to check is the grounds and connections going to tge PCM. Look for corrosion. Try the other different key and see if it starts. Check your vehicle battery. Check for corrosion around the battery conbectors. The door handle is secured by a single screw. Open the door. On the door frame you'll see a small access hole. Look in and you'll see a screw. When you remove it, the back portion of the handle comes off. Then the front (larger) section can be slide backwards and removed. Now, there is one cleavet to this. DON'T DROP THE SCREW WHEN RENOVING. Only remove the screw with a magnitized screwdriver. And go slow. Drop the screw and you'll need to pull the door panel to get it back. If you don't have a magnetized screwdriver, buy a Dewalt magnetized (they're not expensive.)

No market for buttons. Course could always go this route: (Big grin) ? https://www.amazon.com/DYMO-LetraTag-Handheld-Labeling-1955663/dp/B01BD6DRI6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=58817769969&hvadid=651265741588&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9016241&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=16615939766622996411&hvtargid=kwd-393627443019&hydadcr=12194_13429263&keywords=label-maker&qid=1700689196&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

I had a similar problem in my 09 MKX. I replaced the switch and it fixed the problem. Posted what i did here in the forum. You just remove the plastic trim pieces to gain access to the switch then r&r. Hardest part is getting those damn plastic trim pieces back correctly. Suggest you take pictures with your cell during disassembly. Worked for me. There are several different seat switches for the 09. Mine was a 10-way. I looked up the switch on Rock Auto. Think it was around $75 for Motorcraft. But there are aftermarket available fot less. Here's the Rock Auto page. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2009,edge,3.5l+v6,1443379,electrical-switch+&+relay,power+seat+switch,4612 -》Could always drop by your local Ford dealer & have them look it up. Price should be similar. Take your VIN so they can zero down to right part. Think the 6-way switch was installed on the 09 Edge.

I wouldn't sell my MKX for one. Love the CUV design.

I remember reading where someone else had a similar problem, few years ago. Turned out the new shafts changed the angle going unto the RDU. Also a worn pinion gear or bearing can cause this. (Most common cause is the drive shaft bearings as you already deduced.) Seen a YouTube video sometime back (don't remember the title) where the mechanic placed a vibration sending unit (magnetic) on or near various parts of the drive train to narrow down the actual location of the vibration. Had to place it on several locations but eventually narrowed it down.

The ford PTU fluid is actually the best you can use for Ford PTU's. Personally, I really don't believe that any other fluid is equal (or better.) The Ford fluid is made by US Lubricants. Pretty certain it's their "300 Waylube"; which is rebanded under the Ford label. These are at the top of the line lubes, which is why the Ford brand is so expensive.

You can pruchase a printed version of your owners manual (don't know what the price is, didn’t call.) Physical or hard copies of Owner’s Manuals are also available for purchase from our publications suppliers. Contact them using the information below: Helm Inc. or 1-800-782-4356 (1940 to present) Bishko or 1-800-544-3312 (1910 to present)