enigma-2

Just add to the conversation, few years ago my blower began to make wierd noises. I pulled the blower and lubed the bearings with a little WD40 and Super Lube. Been quiet for a few years now.

Couple of thoughts to add to your list. 1. Check to see if they forgot to reconnect the electrical connection to the compressor. 2. With the ac set to max, is compressor running?

Think we've all asked those questions. Try contacting the guys in Warsaw and see if they can supply. If you're not around the capitol, try Googling for your area. It's not listed in parts catalog, if anyone knows, it's them. Good luck

This thread may offer you some advice about how to find the pins on the module used to control the lights and how to wire. I seem to remember that someone here was making housing to fit that area (believe I read were the one's on Ebay didn't fit NA Edges.)

I've seen harnesses like that as well, but usually only on cars that has the accessory as a dealer option. Just can't see Ford throwing in extra, unused wire on thousands of vehicles that were never designed to use these lights. If this was offered as an option by the dealer, it would be cheaper to offer a kit, lights, wire, etc. than run wiring to an empty spot and just hang there. They watch stuff like this closely. Say 6' of 16 ga copper wire × 150,000 cars. That will never be used. Easiest way to tell is to check the harness part numbers for the Edge that gets the lights and the one that doesn’t. They will be different if the wiring is different. Or just dig around in the area with a flashlight and look for open connectors.

Strut tower bearing. With a frozen bearing, the strut spring starts to twist, can't because the of bearing and slips on the bearing plate, causing a clunking sound.

Good cable? You see this video?

Normally when an a/c compressor needs repair, its repaired by replacing with a new or rebuilt unit. I'd try asking Zabielski Dariusz Zabielski, Orzechowa 25, 02-244. Warszawa. (48) 22 868 38 42 They seem to have good reviews for selling rebuilt units. Perhaps they can secure you the correct bearing.

I can answer the first one. No. They only pre-wire if it's a dealer installed option. And then the wiring harness would be part of the add-on accessory, never left hanging on the car. These lights are not offered as a dealer add-on, so they are not going to waste $$$ installing wiring that will (almost) never get used.

This is how one fixed the problem; claims it took him two minutes.

Safelite will do any camera alignment and any programing as they are required to do so. Part of a modern windshield replacment. They'll also replace your wipers if needed.

Great find, but the reviews would make me think twice. Still need 2007 electrical wiring schematics.

You'll need to obtain 2007 Edge wiring diagrams to see the differences between the cars with auto lights and manual. There are many variations. For example, in 2009 (earliest I have) different sensors and wiring are used based on the type of air conditioning used. As does your car have a sensor? Possibly. If you have datc (automatic heating/cooling) you may possibly have a sunlight sensor. The sensor is located at the top, center of the instrument panel. Near the windshield. I would imagine the parts alone would be prohibitive. Different switch, headlight modules (pass/dvr), sensors, possibly a different sjb, etc. Start by obtaining the 2007 wiring diagrams compare the differences.

I never heard this. Brilliant! Easy test. And for those who hate the ANC, just driving around with a door ajar will kill it. ? Wonder if a faulty door latch (where the interior lights stay on) would also kill the ANC?

Transmission shops can do it. May have to bring the fluid as they probably don't stock it. The Ford PTU fluid is probably the best for the unit. No aftermarket is the equal. I believe it's probably US Lubricants 300 Waylube, rebanded under the Ford label. These are at the top of lube products.

I could be wrong, but I thought the ANC worked on the low frequency engine sounds. If you can turn it off via forescan will prove it, one way or the other. Do you hear the sound with the radio off? Does the sound get louder when listening under the hood? Do you hear the sound only when driving, or does it also exist standing still?

There was a guy in the f150 forum that had a simular situation. He tracked the problem to the connector on the back of of the fuse panel. It had worked itself lose. He pushed it back on and his passenger headlight started working again. The best way to track this is to start at the fuse. Check for test light working by ground lead on frame, pos lead on each side of fuse top (the little metal parts on top of the fuse are for troubleshooting purposes). If you get light on each side of fuse, fuse good. Then switch the drivers and passengers relays. If problem switched to drivers side, you have a bad relay. If same, check wiring connectio at fuse panel. (Look under pass headlight fuse for wire.) If good, continue tracking wire into harness and down harness for rodent damage. Basically looking to find exactly where the power stops. Good luck.

As fuse F20 is powered on only when start or run and he noticed this after the car had been switched off, perhaps he shoud also check fuse F67, which controls the body control module. (The BCM controls the signature lamps when the car is off).

Diving on Saturday, April 1st, and noticed my wiper blades started to sweep past the A piller on the drivers side. When I shut them off they didn't park properly any longer. Sure sign that the wiper brakes are failing. I've never changed a windshield wiper brake pads before so I found a great video on YouTube by Chris Fix. Doesn't look too hard. I'm thinking of switching to 6 caliper with slotted rotors as they last longer. What do you guys use? Also checked my oil when I got home. It was a little low on the dipstick so it looks like I'll have to order a longer dipstip as well. Checked the Ford website and looks like they're backorder. Great.

It could be several different faults, but it really sounds like a parasitic battery drain. if so, these can be occurring sporadically and very difficult to find. One method (with the car off) is to clamp an ammeter across the + battery lead and wait until it shows a heavy draw (It's normal to see a few millimeters to keep modules alive). Once the meter shows a draw occurring, you start pulling out each of the fuses on the power fuse panel, one at a time. Do this until the draw stops. Then determine if the draw stopped because you found the circuit or, the parasitic battery drain stopped. (If it stopped, replace the fuse and start with it when the draw starts again). You could wait 15-20 minutes between the parasitic battery drain starts again. There are a lot of devices that could be causing a periodic drain. In the electric schematics, they are the ones that have two sources of power. Its the ones that have a hot at all times feed. An example of a parasitic battery drain could be the rear wiper. Suppose that the gear box got water in it and caused the gears to seize. (Wiper not seated). Even with the car off, the wiper checks to see if the blade is parked (through the "always hot" feed.) This occurs about every 15 minutes. If it isn't, it turns on the motor to park the blade. It stays on until the blade reports that its parked or it times out after a period of time. Problem is, this motor draws several amps and over a night the motor causes the battery to discharge (keeps pulling juice out and nothing going back in). I chose this as a motor starting current draws several times its running current. Its called a locked rotor rating and if the rear wiper motor draws say 3.5 amps running at could draw 7+ amps starting. And if it's locked as in this example, it's always starting. So in this example, using a clamp ammeter, you'll only see the draw for about 30 seconds, once every 15 minutes. This is why some draws are so much of a pita to track down and why mechanics hate the process.

As this occurred after an alignment, I'd suspect they may have accidentally pinched or damaged a wiring harness.

Ahhh drink holders. One of tbe greatest items of complaint over the entire Ford product line. Over in the F150 forum, a guy with a 2016 (if I remember correctly) was so pissed he yanked out his console and installed one from a 2018 (if I remember correctly, later year, better drink holders). Had to do a little finalgleing but got it to fit. Dancing in the garage now. One problem with the drink explanders is they don't allow two to sit side-by-side. One crowds the other. This one allows this buy allowing you to offsit the holders when you install them. https://a.co/d/6u8MWiP So fix is install console from later year (if Ford changed them to larger size as they did in the F150), install a floor stand-alone console, or offset drink holder enlargers. Buy good quality. Cheapers ones don't hold up well (walls bend) and if too tight, pull out when pulling out an oversized cup.

Bobistheoilguy.com ran a test on oil filters a few years ago. Mobile One scored highest (and one of the most expensive). But high up on the testing was Motorcraft. Best for price. Also AC Delco. K&N products are really questionable. In their air filters for example, they advertise (or use to advertise, don't follow them) that their filters allow more air through. And they do. It's because they were originally designed for racing and not street use (the filter material is designed for the larger stuff, not the micron stuff that can hurt the cylinder walls.) Their filters didn't score very high. -> You cannot do better than Motorcraft

Which model are you considering? I'm highly satisfied with my Escort MAX 360c. Great distance warning. All bands and shows the actual frequency so you know if cop or something else (like those signs that show you how fast you're travelling.) Also excellent rejection of false signals. Updates database via wireless connection right in car. (Uses home wireless connection via cell phone). Two separate antennas detail which direction the police are coming from, can track several radars at once and using software on my cell phone, can see where the cops are, within 30 miles. (When someone with a simular detector detects radar, the location is uploaded to the cloud and everyone else can see it.) Map also shows where known speed cameras are located and when you enter a known aircraft measuring area. (No radar used for either of these). Escort also a camera that attaches directly onto the side of this detector. (Only one power cord needed).

Remember, never mix gear oils. Always do a clean install.