enigma-2

Sister video showing the interior works of the PTU and common failure points.

Took my 2009 MKX in today for 4-wheel alignment (occasionally drifts to the right) and oil change. Soooooo sitting in the waiting room drinking a cold one and watching a tripple X flix (OK, that may be a slight exaggeration), and the service rep comes in and ...... pulls up a chair. Uh huh, that's the signal that they found something over $1000 and I'll be walking home. Yup, needs a new tie rod and (wait for it) the PTU was puking black goo out the top. Sure sign the bearing is shot and overheating lubricant. Very common. Second one this month for this dealer. (Last month they had one that threw gears and broke the transmission housing). No way to fix (they have no approved process to rebuild), and replacment is only fix. Next he asks if I know what this means uh, "yes Pat, I'd live to solve the puzzle..." Little over $1,700 to replace. Add $300 for tie rod and alignment. And (drum roll) it's all covered under warranty. 100%. Plus they gave me a 2018 F-150 as a loaner until my little beauty is done. (Still gotta pay for the oil change though). Wonder if I can squeeze a free car wash out of them when its done? Talking to the service rep (who was a Ford mechanic for several years) said the only thing you can do is a pump and dump (change the fluid occasionally). Just a poor design in the Gen 1's. Also talked about water pumps, he see's them starting to fail around 100k and going as long as 200k. Felt 130k was a good point to replace one as a preemptive move. I was considering 150k and he feels thats too risky. Changing the coolant from green to gold helps by preventing cavication, but only up to a point. They drop the engine/transmission to change. They tried the Ford procedure by flattening the left tire and going in through the hood and had to do it a second time when the silicone seal on the cover failed. Much easier and better results to drop the engine. Now to see what this F-150 can do. Man, is it made cheap inside. Plain Jane and no extras. Great engine however. Full back seat, great room front and back. Sits sixteen (if you count throwing a family of refugees in the bed). What?

Abet expensive, there are companies who make changeover kits available. Heres one that changes from 4" to 8" screen. Add $600 if you want to add navigation. https://www.4dtech.com/15-18-ford-edge-4-to-8-touchscreen-conversion-w-sync-3/

Soooooo, its been a few yeara since I've updated my navigation software. No biggie, drop in a disk or two, 30-40 minutes, and Voila! Unnnnnn, not so fast. Version 11 has 4 (that's FOUR) disks. I'm currently on Disk #3 and its been a little over two hours. And its currently at 39.9% finished. Car has to remain running throughout whereas the previous versions allowex me to turn it off after it got started. Can't even drink a beer as wife has me on a diet. This damn update better be worth it.

Easy fix to prevent this. Don't have the Ford part number but these aftermarket ones wok just as well. Snazzy too! Matches your ride. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LD4UU6U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XHmxCbHFHDNZ2

Any start and stop driving? How about idling, kills mileage. I would suggest filling up at the pump, allowing the pump to just shut off (no topping off). Record your mileage and when 3/4 low, fill at the same pump (if possible). Subtract previous mileage from current and divide by number of gallons. Gives a more accurate reading of mpg. If its still low, check your tire air pressure (keep at whats printed on door sticker). If OK, try cleaning the MAF (mass airflow sensor). If the wire becomes dirty, it can definitely affect milage. How many miles on car?

This product propped up in an ad and thought it looked interesting. Haven't tried it so cant confirm if its as good as they say. (But looks like a good product). https://www.furnitureclinic.com/Leather_Protection_Cream?utm_source=Facebook&utm_medium=PPC&utm_campaign=23843097164190646&utm_content=23843097164250646

I pulled this off the 150 forum. Ok for those with the power mirror and front camera. Here is how to tap into the harness. Use the white connector facing the drivers side to tap for radar detector. Black wire for ground. Solid yellow wire for power. It is the second yellow wire under the black one. See pics. Oh and the plastic cap doesn't use any clips. It has a male plunger type holder on each side of the plastic piece that covers the lower part of the mirror. Pull firmly straight down on both sides and it will pop out. The top piece is held in place by the bottom piece. You just squeeze on both sides of the top piece near the mirror stud and it will pull off. Make sure to put the lower piece back on first when reinstalling. Then just pop the top piece back on.

Doesn't fit your car. Only fits a 2009. Sync changed in 2010. (Click on "view compatible vehicles").

If you turn you ac on max both fans should come on full. The reason you get continuity is the fan motor is a continuous wire (its just a coil). You should see a resistsnce of a few ohms (maybe 20-30 ohms). I hope you ordered a Motorcraft fan assembly. The aftermarket units have reported problens.

All I see is the C-Max, Crown Victoria, Focus, Fusion, Mustang & Taurus under Ford, 2010. Perhaps you could post a webpage where the OP can click and be directed to.

I didnt see it listed on the Rostra website. See link above. Edge was not listed.

Rostra dosnt list this available for the Edge. http://www.rostra.com/

The white with blue strip wire runs from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and generates a fan Control Variable signal for the Cooling Fan Module . The PCM monitors certain parameters (such as engine coolant temperature, vehicle speed, A/C on/off status, A/C pressure) to determine engine cooling fan needs. For variable speed electric fan(s): The PCM controls the fan speed and operation using a duty cycle output on the fan control variable (FCV) circuit. The fan controller (located at or integral to the engine cooling fan assembly) receives the FCV command and operates the cooling fan at the speed requested (by varying the power applied to the fan motor). The fan controller has the capability to detect certain failure modes within the fan motors. Under certain failure modes, such as a motor that is drawing excessive current, the fan controller will shut off the fans. Fan motor concerns will not set a specific DTC. With the fan motor disconnected from the fan controller, voltage may not be present at the fan controller. Fan Speed Sensor (FSS) The FSS is a Hall-effect sensor that measures the cooling fan clutch speed by generating a waveform with a frequency proportional to the fan speed. If the cooling fan clutch is moving at a relatively low speed, the sensor produces a signal with a low frequency. As the cooling fan clutch speed increases, the sensor generates a signal with a higher frequency. The PCM uses the frequency signal generated by the FSS as a feedback for closed loop control of the cooling fan clutch. Cooling Fan Clutch The cooling fan clutch is an electrically actuated viscous clutch that consists of three main elements: a working chamber a reservoir chamber a cooling fan clutch actuator valve and a fan speed sensor (FSS) The cooling fan clutch actuator valve controls the fluid flow from the reservoir into the working chamber. Once viscous fluid is in the working chamber, shearing of the fluid results in fan rotation. The cooling fan clutch actuator valve is activated with a pulse width modulated (PWM) output signal from the PCM. By opening and closing the fluid port valve, the PCM can control the cooling fan clutch speed. The cooling fan clutch speed is measured by a Hall-effect sensor and is monitored by the PCM during closed loop operation. The PCM optimizes fan speed based on engine coolant temperature (ECT), engine oil temperature (EOT), transmission fluid temperature (TFT), intake air temperature (IAT), or air conditioning requirements. When an increased demand for fan speed is requested for vehicle cooling, the PCM monitors the fan speed through the Hall-effect sensor. If a fan speed increase is required, the PCM outputs the PWM signal to the fluid port, providing the required fan speed increase. Based on this, you may have to test for an ac signal, not a dc voltage. All of the troubleshooting procedures involve starting with reading the DTC's.

I read something where another felliw had a simular problem with two lights, lighting. Think it was in the explorer forum (dont hold me to that). The suggestion was to reset the DCSM module. The "dual control seat module" is under the drivers seat. It has 3 connectors going to it. One has 11 wires, one has 8 and one with 16 (or thereabouts). Anyway disconnect all three connectors and wait 15 minutes. Then plug back in. I dont think it worked for him, shop found melted wires as the cause. Dont remember if he stated where.

Sorry, did not realize that you are in a warm climate. Its -4°C here tonight and water was a logical choice. If your windshield sprayer is failing while the temperature is above freezing, theres's a couple of items that should be checked. The spray nozles are plastic and have a sharp 90° bend where the sprayer hose connects. This is the point where they break. When the hose breaks off, the pump continues to pump fluid, but never gets pumped through the nozzle. You can pull off the underhood cover and check the hose connections. The other thing i would consider is the nozzle has becomed blocked due to dirt in the washer system. New nozzles are easy to install. (I wrote a detailed post here in the forum as to how to go about doing this).

On my 09 MKX I can add up to four. Every time you reprogram, all existing keys are wiped. If you have 3 FOBs, you still need to reprogram the first two before programming the third.

As you stated this only happens when the weather is cold, you probably have plain water in your washer reservoir. Get the car warmed up and run the washer tank dry. Then fill with washer fluid that's certified to -10° to -20°.

More comfortable in mine. I prefer knobs over menus, lower center consul over higher, wider seats over narrower, softer, squisher ride, the 2016 was very firm (but that may have been the tires). Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnd mine is paid for.

Got a new recall notice in the mail yesterday, notifying me that my airbag is ready to be replaced and to call the dealer. Called the dealer and he told me that, Yes, they have airbags, and No, they do not have any that will fit my car. My car needs a particular assembly, consisting of air bag along with an instrument panel section that's color keyed to my vin. Lincoln used all they had in stock for the cars registered in the hot, moist regions and are having new instrument panel assembles made to finish the rest of the unfixed cars. Local dealer said he had a list of 38 cars in the local area waiting on new instrument panel assemblies - mostly like mine - light sand, but some were different color). Asked when, said "next year".

Yokohama Tire Corporation (Yokohama) is recalling certain Yokohama RY023 tires, size 295/75R22.5 (14G), that have DOT date code 2318. The rubber compound may be incorrect, possibly resulting in the tread separating from the casing. As such, these tires fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 119, "New Pneumatic Tires-Other than Passenger Cars." If the tread separates, the driver may experience a loss of control, increasing the risk of a crash. Yokohama has notified owners, and dealers will inspect and replace the tires, as necessary, free of charge. The recall began November 28, 2018. Owners may contact Yokohama customer service at 1-800-722-9888.

The procedure for the car to recognize the FOB for starting is programmed when you program the FOB. (There's a chip with a identifying hex number inside the FOB that's being read during programming. It's this chip that detected when you put you key in the ignition. No additional programming is needed for this to be linked to the car. If your switchblade is aftermarket, most likely it's Chinese and these have been know to be problematic. There's does appear to be a second programming procedure for the 2007. Could always try it and see if works or not. I've never tried this so can't say if it works or not. (Note, for either procedure, do NOT step on the brake before or during the procedure. If you do, start over). 1. Fasten seatbelt and close all doors2. Turn the ignition from OFF to RUN 4 times within 3 seconds.3. Turn the ignition OFF. The system will chime to confirm programming mode.4. Within 10 seconds, press and hold any button on first keyless remote. The system will chime once to confirm programming.5. Within 10 seconds, press and hold any button on second keyless remote. System will chime once to confirm programming.6. Turn ignition to RUN to exit programming mode. Opps, I lied. Third procedure (resembles a Chinese Fire Drill): INSERT a working transponder key into the ignition cylinder. TURN the ignition cylinder to ON (Position 3) for five (5) seconds and then back to OFF (Position 1). REMOVE the first transponder key and INSERT the second working transponder within ten (10) seconds. TURN the ignition cylinder to ON (Position 3) for five (5) seconds and then back to OFF (Position 1). REMOVE the second transponder key and INSERT the new unprogrammed transponder key within twenty (20) seconds and TURN to ON (Position 3) for six (6) seconds and TURN back to OFF (Position 1). The Theft Indicator light will respond by lighting up for three (3) seconds to indicate successful programming of the new transponder key. Test all remotes. Programming is complete. If these programming instructions helped save you time and money, please consider sharing our website with friends and family so they can do the same. If the remote portion of the remote head key DID NOT program with the above procedure, use Procedure #2 below to program the remote portion of the remote head key.

Believe what the OP was asking was, can he find a local, non-Ford garage to put in the Motorcraft Blend. Try calling your local garage, the one you normally use and tell them this is what you want. Most garages will put in whatever you ask for. Most will just change the oil (charge for labor) if you bring in your own oil, purchased elsewhere (my local Ford/Lincoln Garage has done this for me, using synthetic before they switched to blend).

One quick test you could try is by putting the a/c in the MAX position and see if the fans operate (by-passes the FCV command signal from the PCM). As you only need the fans when idling or at very slow speeds (not needed at speeds above 20 mph) you may be able to switch the fans just on when needed.

Eric Evarts at Consumer Reports spoke with their chief mechanic and shared some scenarios when synthetic is the better option: If you make lots of short trips, standard motor oil may never get warm enough to burn off moisture and impurities. That could hasten the breakdown of conventional oil. Also, if you live in a region with very cold winters or very hot summers, or if you use your vehicle for towing or hauling heavy material, synthetic oil won’t break down as quickly... Another good use for synthetic oil is as a salve for older engines prone to sludge buildup. This gunky residue can block oil passages and lead to a quick death of an engine. As VEGA stated, your local Ford garage uses a blend of conventional and synthetic oil. It combines the best of both worlds, but at a reasonable price. A good change interval is as stated in the 2009 maintenance manual, 5,000 miles or every six months. The 2009 3.5L is an excellent engine but it does have a couple of weak points. In the 2009, its important (critical actually), that the coolant be changed from gold coolsnt to green through a specific procedure. It was found that tbe gold failed to provide sufficient protection and caused the coolant system to clog. Its also one of the causes of water pump failure through bearing seal corrosion. I had this procedure on my 09, years ago. Its an extensive process of flushing and I think I paid around $150. Another critical service procedure that must be preformed at or below 90,000 miles is to have the spark plugs changed. (Even if the car is running well). Failure can (will) result in burned out coils and possibly the power control module. Believe I paid $350. Coil or PCM replacement will run hundreds, probably over a thousand at a Ford dealer. At around 150,000 miles it's a good idea to have the water pump changed as a preventative measure. These are internal to the engine, and WHEN it fails, will leak coolant into the oil and destroy the engine. I believe the cost will run in the neighborhood of $1,600. At the very least, monitor your oil for coolant contamination by checking the oil for a milkly appearance. If you see this, get to your dealer immediately.