enigma-2

I wonder if the relay would also need changing? Haven't checked, but may be wise to check the rating as 2 horns draw twice as much and Ford may have put in a lower-rated relay.

First of all, it's NOT a panic alarm. It's a parking lot car locator. ? I thought you were supposed to hit the unlock button to disable the alarm. As its 1:30 in the morning around here, I believe I'll wait until tomorrow to test this.

Ever get it figured out? Nav working again?

Nice find. How do they perform in relation to the stock 14's?

Going on memory from earlier models, on vehicles with automatic transmissions, there is a gear selector switch on the left side. I would assume that this is working as the camera is working properly. The signal feeds the PCM which triggers the backup light relay in the power fuse panel. As power runs from the relay directly to the reverse lights, I would center in on this relay sticking on.

If you already haven't found the problem, Does the AM band also contain static? If so it would most likely be the AM/FM antenna or mount. Remove the antenna by unscrewing it and check for corrosion in the connector. (The AM/FM antenna is the one at the front, top just in back of the windshield.) I would also pull down the overhead consul and look for any corrosion from a leak.

Sounds like a software issue. I would try a full vehicle reset. Disconnect the battety negative cable for 10 minutes.

I know that on some Ford vehicles you can park the wipers in the up position, called the maintenance position, by going into accessory position, then off, then pulling the stalk down for a couple of seconds. Its purpose is to facilitate changing blades. Kind of sounds like your car is doing this by accident. If so, I'd suspect the wiper stalk (several here have had problems with there's, for others reasons.)

I found that switching to Phillip's X-tremeVision bulbs made a big difference over the OEM halogens. Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5QY7DW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JD7qDbTAZNFXR

Did you try doing a MFT reboot by pulling the fuse?

What's the problem? Don't you like your Edge to sound like a 1950 Volkswagon? lol Dealers have the procedure for replacing now. But Ford refuses to warranty a dual horn setup. Go figure.

Fascinating. But I wonder why they tear the production line down every night and then put it back together again in the morning?

You can also add navigation (and Sync 3 if your so inclined) by changing the hardware. Here's a YouTube video describing how to do this. Here's one comete kit you can buy and go plug-and-play. (Not cheap, but neither was oem.)] https://www.4dtech.com/15-ford-edge-navigation-kit-for-myford-touch-systems/

Check Ebay. I paid $25 for a usd version.

YouTube video showing how to do this on a 2012 https://youtu.be/ODFY9TS6GsY

I can give you wiring for a 2010, 6-way power seats (you didn't specify the year or type of seat.) Power from the battery junction box (fuse is F60 - 30 amp) to seat switch: Green with red stripe Grounds are black with blue stripe Front height (up): white with violet stripe Front height (down): gray Rear height (up): blue with brown stripe Rear height (down): yellow with blue stripe Horizontal (aft): green Horizontal (forward): green with violet stripe

Thanks. But I was thinking of water blowing up into the engine compartment when driving on wet roads. (Winter months around here, et. al.) Really good idea about using the pin switch. I was looking at an old fashioned under hood light that employed a mercury switch.

Change the transmission fluid, engine oil, PTU fluid and rear differential fluids. Check ALL of your fuses (Wil tell you which electrical connectors got water inside.) Required in owners manual for flooded cars (your car qualifies under flooded by Ford's definition.) I would imagine your insurance company will total out the car (most will do if flooded above floor level.) Really sorry to hear about your car. Hope it works out ok.

Cooper Tire & Rubber Co. (Cooper Tire) is recalling certain size 235/65R18 Cooper Discoverer SRX, Evolution H/T, Discoverer HTP, Adventurer H/T CUV, Big O Big Foot A/S, Les Schwab Back Country QS3 Touring HT, and Mastercraft Courser HSX Tour tires. The tires may have been improperly manufactured with a ply cord distortion. For a full list of the Tire Identification Numbers (TIN) visit: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2019/RCLRPT-19T005-5639.pdf The distortion may cause parting of the lower sidewall compounds extending to the cord material, increasing the risk of tire failure and a crash. Cooper Tire has notified owners, and dealers will replace the tires, free of charge. The recall began June 14, 2019. Owners may contact Cooper Tire customer service at 1-800-854-6288. Cooper Tire's number for this recall is 172.

Nice! You mentioned "simple LED strip", is the strip exterior rated (that is, rated to be waterproof)?

Easiest and cheapest way is to use a pre-made harness (mirror-tap) that plugs into the back of your mirror connector. The mirror is on the time delay circuit, it powers on with the ignition and stays on until a door is opened or timed expires (just like the radio.) SimpleUSBCable 12V to MicroUSB Two-Prong Universal Dashcam Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFRWC3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YhefDbNKWS2FZ

Left Brake Ground = black w/gray stripe Left Brake Hot = gray w/brown stripe Right Brake Ground = black w/green stripe Right Brake Hot = violet w/ orange stripe Left & Right Backup Lights = green w/ brown stripe

2009 MKX, AWD. Looking for ideas before I take back to Ford Garage. Problem: when I turn left I (sometimes) get a loud squeak. It sounds similar to a metal dust shield rubbing against the break rotor. (Or should that be "brake", heh?) Took it to dealer and they tore into the brakes. Could not duplicate and could not find anything. Said brakes are excellent in front and mid-life in back. (They took an hour and didn't charge me anything. Mechanic came up front and said he was baffled.) And of course it stopped for a couple of weeks afterwards. (But it's been very intermittent anyways.) Now the little stinker is back. With a vengeance. Only on hard, left turns, and only a slow speeds (5-10 mph). But not always. Sometimes. Usually when it's cold. But not always. Sometimes. No other symptoms. Just the loud squeeeeeeeeeeakkkkkkkkkkk. Kids look, neighbors drop their rakes, dogs howl, cats hunch and hiss. I smile and say "It's a Ford product." They smile and nod ....

Couple of ideas. First press the SETUP button until POWER LIFTGATE ON OFF is displayed. Does the "ON" or "OFF" have the "[ ... ]" brackets around it indicating the desired selection? If Yes, the system is operating normally at this time and the problem may have been caused by a momentary loss of communication with the LTM. If there are no brackets, try pressing the RESET button to allow the IC to query the LTM again. (If still no brackets, there is a malfunction and will need a scan tool to diagnose further.) The second thing I would suggest, especially since you changed hardware, is to go through a Power Liftgate Initialization procedure. (Basically this should be performed whenever you realign the striker or do any alignment on the liftgate.) NOTE: Make sure the power liftgate system is turned ON in the message center before performing this step and that the Liftgate must be in the closed/locked position before starting. To start, first remove power from the LTM (Liftgate Module) for 20 seconds. Do this by either disconnecting the vehicle battery or removing the fuses controlling the power to the Liftgate (module & controller). There are two fuses that need to be pulled. The first is in the SJB (in cabin, near floor) and the second is in the Battery Junction Box (in the engine compartment). SJB fuse #14 (10A) supplies battery logic power required for the software, clutch and internal switching operations; and power is supplied to the motor by fuse #59 (30A) in the Battery Junction Box (BJB). After 20 seconds, reconnect the battery or replace the fuses and then power open the Liftgate by using the key fob or control switch. Once the power liftgate is fully open, close the power liftgate by using the key fob or control switch. The Liftgate is now re-initialized.

Years ago, while i was in the Ford garage for an oil change, they came up and said my 09 still was running the original Gold coolant. They told me that Ford had discovered that this coolant was found to cause corrosion and clogging. Recommended I switch over to Green coolant. Somewhat expensive, but theres a lot involved. Specific procedures involved in the flush (Gold and Green must never be mixed in the same coolant systems, forms thick sludge and will clog a coolant system). They also had to change a part in the system as it's is not plated on the inside and the Gold coolant attacks it and causes it to rust. I have a copy of the Ford procedure and will attach it to this reply for your use. If your still running Gold, recommend you do a full proper flush and switch to Green to avoid more problems. 2009 MKX Cooling System Corrosion.pdf