enigma-2

I didnt see it listed on the Rostra website. See link above. Edge was not listed.

Rostra dosnt list this available for the Edge. http://www.rostra.com/

The white with blue strip wire runs from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and generates a fan Control Variable signal for the Cooling Fan Module . The PCM monitors certain parameters (such as engine coolant temperature, vehicle speed, A/C on/off status, A/C pressure) to determine engine cooling fan needs. For variable speed electric fan(s): The PCM controls the fan speed and operation using a duty cycle output on the fan control variable (FCV) circuit. The fan controller (located at or integral to the engine cooling fan assembly) receives the FCV command and operates the cooling fan at the speed requested (by varying the power applied to the fan motor). The fan controller has the capability to detect certain failure modes within the fan motors. Under certain failure modes, such as a motor that is drawing excessive current, the fan controller will shut off the fans. Fan motor concerns will not set a specific DTC. With the fan motor disconnected from the fan controller, voltage may not be present at the fan controller. Fan Speed Sensor (FSS) The FSS is a Hall-effect sensor that measures the cooling fan clutch speed by generating a waveform with a frequency proportional to the fan speed. If the cooling fan clutch is moving at a relatively low speed, the sensor produces a signal with a low frequency. As the cooling fan clutch speed increases, the sensor generates a signal with a higher frequency. The PCM uses the frequency signal generated by the FSS as a feedback for closed loop control of the cooling fan clutch. Cooling Fan Clutch The cooling fan clutch is an electrically actuated viscous clutch that consists of three main elements: a working chamber a reservoir chamber a cooling fan clutch actuator valve and a fan speed sensor (FSS) The cooling fan clutch actuator valve controls the fluid flow from the reservoir into the working chamber. Once viscous fluid is in the working chamber, shearing of the fluid results in fan rotation. The cooling fan clutch actuator valve is activated with a pulse width modulated (PWM) output signal from the PCM. By opening and closing the fluid port valve, the PCM can control the cooling fan clutch speed. The cooling fan clutch speed is measured by a Hall-effect sensor and is monitored by the PCM during closed loop operation. The PCM optimizes fan speed based on engine coolant temperature (ECT), engine oil temperature (EOT), transmission fluid temperature (TFT), intake air temperature (IAT), or air conditioning requirements. When an increased demand for fan speed is requested for vehicle cooling, the PCM monitors the fan speed through the Hall-effect sensor. If a fan speed increase is required, the PCM outputs the PWM signal to the fluid port, providing the required fan speed increase. Based on this, you may have to test for an ac signal, not a dc voltage. All of the troubleshooting procedures involve starting with reading the DTC's.

I read something where another felliw had a simular problem with two lights, lighting. Think it was in the explorer forum (dont hold me to that). The suggestion was to reset the DCSM module. The "dual control seat module" is under the drivers seat. It has 3 connectors going to it. One has 11 wires, one has 8 and one with 16 (or thereabouts). Anyway disconnect all three connectors and wait 15 minutes. Then plug back in. I dont think it worked for him, shop found melted wires as the cause. Dont remember if he stated where.

Sorry, did not realize that you are in a warm climate. Its -4°C here tonight and water was a logical choice. If your windshield sprayer is failing while the temperature is above freezing, theres's a couple of items that should be checked. The spray nozles are plastic and have a sharp 90° bend where the sprayer hose connects. This is the point where they break. When the hose breaks off, the pump continues to pump fluid, but never gets pumped through the nozzle. You can pull off the underhood cover and check the hose connections. The other thing i would consider is the nozzle has becomed blocked due to dirt in the washer system. New nozzles are easy to install. (I wrote a detailed post here in the forum as to how to go about doing this).

On my 09 MKX I can add up to four. Every time you reprogram, all existing keys are wiped. If you have 3 FOBs, you still need to reprogram the first two before programming the third.

As you stated this only happens when the weather is cold, you probably have plain water in your washer reservoir. Get the car warmed up and run the washer tank dry. Then fill with washer fluid that's certified to -10° to -20°.

More comfortable in mine. I prefer knobs over menus, lower center consul over higher, wider seats over narrower, softer, squisher ride, the 2016 was very firm (but that may have been the tires). Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnd mine is paid for.

Got a new recall notice in the mail yesterday, notifying me that my airbag is ready to be replaced and to call the dealer. Called the dealer and he told me that, Yes, they have airbags, and No, they do not have any that will fit my car. My car needs a particular assembly, consisting of air bag along with an instrument panel section that's color keyed to my vin. Lincoln used all they had in stock for the cars registered in the hot, moist regions and are having new instrument panel assembles made to finish the rest of the unfixed cars. Local dealer said he had a list of 38 cars in the local area waiting on new instrument panel assemblies - mostly like mine - light sand, but some were different color). Asked when, said "next year".

Yokohama Tire Corporation (Yokohama) is recalling certain Yokohama RY023 tires, size 295/75R22.5 (14G), that have DOT date code 2318. The rubber compound may be incorrect, possibly resulting in the tread separating from the casing. As such, these tires fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 119, "New Pneumatic Tires-Other than Passenger Cars." If the tread separates, the driver may experience a loss of control, increasing the risk of a crash. Yokohama has notified owners, and dealers will inspect and replace the tires, as necessary, free of charge. The recall began November 28, 2018. Owners may contact Yokohama customer service at 1-800-722-9888.

The procedure for the car to recognize the FOB for starting is programmed when you program the FOB. (There's a chip with a identifying hex number inside the FOB that's being read during programming. It's this chip that detected when you put you key in the ignition. No additional programming is needed for this to be linked to the car. If your switchblade is aftermarket, most likely it's Chinese and these have been know to be problematic. There's does appear to be a second programming procedure for the 2007. Could always try it and see if works or not. I've never tried this so can't say if it works or not. (Note, for either procedure, do NOT step on the brake before or during the procedure. If you do, start over). 1. Fasten seatbelt and close all doors2. Turn the ignition from OFF to RUN 4 times within 3 seconds.3. Turn the ignition OFF. The system will chime to confirm programming mode.4. Within 10 seconds, press and hold any button on first keyless remote. The system will chime once to confirm programming.5. Within 10 seconds, press and hold any button on second keyless remote. System will chime once to confirm programming.6. Turn ignition to RUN to exit programming mode. Opps, I lied. Third procedure (resembles a Chinese Fire Drill): INSERT a working transponder key into the ignition cylinder. TURN the ignition cylinder to ON (Position 3) for five (5) seconds and then back to OFF (Position 1). REMOVE the first transponder key and INSERT the second working transponder within ten (10) seconds. TURN the ignition cylinder to ON (Position 3) for five (5) seconds and then back to OFF (Position 1). REMOVE the second transponder key and INSERT the new unprogrammed transponder key within twenty (20) seconds and TURN to ON (Position 3) for six (6) seconds and TURN back to OFF (Position 1). The Theft Indicator light will respond by lighting up for three (3) seconds to indicate successful programming of the new transponder key. Test all remotes. Programming is complete. If these programming instructions helped save you time and money, please consider sharing our website with friends and family so they can do the same. If the remote portion of the remote head key DID NOT program with the above procedure, use Procedure #2 below to program the remote portion of the remote head key.

Believe what the OP was asking was, can he find a local, non-Ford garage to put in the Motorcraft Blend. Try calling your local garage, the one you normally use and tell them this is what you want. Most garages will put in whatever you ask for. Most will just change the oil (charge for labor) if you bring in your own oil, purchased elsewhere (my local Ford/Lincoln Garage has done this for me, using synthetic before they switched to blend).

One quick test you could try is by putting the a/c in the MAX position and see if the fans operate (by-passes the FCV command signal from the PCM). As you only need the fans when idling or at very slow speeds (not needed at speeds above 20 mph) you may be able to switch the fans just on when needed.

Eric Evarts at Consumer Reports spoke with their chief mechanic and shared some scenarios when synthetic is the better option: If you make lots of short trips, standard motor oil may never get warm enough to burn off moisture and impurities. That could hasten the breakdown of conventional oil. Also, if you live in a region with very cold winters or very hot summers, or if you use your vehicle for towing or hauling heavy material, synthetic oil won’t break down as quickly... Another good use for synthetic oil is as a salve for older engines prone to sludge buildup. This gunky residue can block oil passages and lead to a quick death of an engine. As VEGA stated, your local Ford garage uses a blend of conventional and synthetic oil. It combines the best of both worlds, but at a reasonable price. A good change interval is as stated in the 2009 maintenance manual, 5,000 miles or every six months. The 2009 3.5L is an excellent engine but it does have a couple of weak points. In the 2009, its important (critical actually), that the coolant be changed from gold coolsnt to green through a specific procedure. It was found that tbe gold failed to provide sufficient protection and caused the coolant system to clog. Its also one of the causes of water pump failure through bearing seal corrosion. I had this procedure on my 09, years ago. Its an extensive process of flushing and I think I paid around $150. Another critical service procedure that must be preformed at or below 90,000 miles is to have the spark plugs changed. (Even if the car is running well). Failure can (will) result in burned out coils and possibly the power control module. Believe I paid $350. Coil or PCM replacement will run hundreds, probably over a thousand at a Ford dealer. At around 150,000 miles it's a good idea to have the water pump changed as a preventative measure. These are internal to the engine, and WHEN it fails, will leak coolant into the oil and destroy the engine. I believe the cost will run in the neighborhood of $1,600. At the very least, monitor your oil for coolant contamination by checking the oil for a milkly appearance. If you see this, get to your dealer immediately.

I misunderstood what you were asking. See if this video can help you reset the factory code.

The factory code is burned into thr bcm (i think its the body control module). There are two methods to recover the code. In the first method, you will need both of your keys or IA fobs. Insert a key in the ignition and turn to on (not run). If equipped with a start/stop button, insert one of your IA keys into the backup slot inside the center consul. (The key should be facing the rear of the vehicle with the key ring up.) Press the start button (without stepping on the brake pedal) once. With either key method, wait at least 4 seconds and then turn off ignition. Take out key and insert 2nd key. Turn to "on" or press start (without stepping on brake). Wait until the factory code on displayed on the screen. --------- In the 2nd method, locate the smart junction box (fuse box). The code is located on a black and white sticker attached to the fuse box. May be on the inside of the cover. Its a 5-digit code followed by a letter. On your 2014 Edge, the fuse panel is located behind a cover panel on the left side of the drivers footwell. To remove the cover, slide the release lever to the right and pull the cover off.

There are several conditions where the system powers down, not just snow covering the radar emitter. There's a table in the OM that discusses all of the conditions when the system disengages.

I H.A.T.E. this new format. Can't do anything in it. (Using Android). Read the help screen and it doesn't reflect this forum, (Blue Oval), and completely different than the Androud layout. I cant fogure out whats new and have to log in every time i visit. If this is the future. I probably won't use this site anymore and drop my membership.

This is really a post to everyone, but thought I'd work it in as a reply to your post. When I was 62, I thought long and hard about retiring. But health insurance needs overruled it. At 65 I got Medicare, but 66 was full retirement age for Social Security. So at 66 I took SS and put my wife on my SS account so I got 100% and wife got 50%. When we turned 70, wife's SS had accrued an additional 30% so we put her on her own and now realize it was worth the wait. (Shame I didn't take mine at 66 and suspend, allowing mine to grow an additional 30% but we needed thd money due to the "great recession"). Point of all this is, think carefully about retiring at 62. I have so many friends who when out at 62 only to realize (too late) that they needed health insurance, that Social Security is only 80% (70% for those born 1960 or later) of what you get at full retirement age and was not enough to live on and went back to work. They gave up a good job to take a poor paying job they were not happy in. If your heath is good, tough it out. It "IS" worth it. Save as much as possible in your 401k and take the time to invest in only the best funds. If you don't know whats best, pick your S&P 500 Index Fund and go 100% in it. If you have never read the book "The Richest Man in Babylon", do so. It's the story about a group of friends in ancient Babylon wbo were tired of being broke all the time and went to see their old friend who was the richest man in all of Babylon. What they could not figure out was, he started out just as poor as they did. The stories tell the story of how everyone can become rich. It's a series of stories written in the 30's by an insurance agent and widely regarded as a classic. And, unlike "Think and Grow Rich", it's an extremely easy read. And if you do retire at 62, enjoy your travels. We've grown sick of air travel, even though we upgrade. But we are still travelling and its great. (Expensive too!)

BTW, are you using the correct procedure for an 2007? The press and hold fuction was correct for the 2009 (and possiblity the 2008 as well, I would have to check). Just to be certain, this is the correct procedure for an 2007. 1. Position the seat and mirrors to the desired position. 2. Press the SET control on the drivers door panel. 3. Within 5 five seconds, press the lock or unlock control on the Integrated keyhead Transmitter (FOB) and then press the 1 or 2 control on the drivers door panel which you would like to associate with the seat and Driver 1 or Driver 2 positions. 4. Repeat this procedure for the second Integrated Keyhead Transmitter if desired.

Seems to me that if the mirrors adjust using the mirror switch, they're still good. Q. Does the seat adjust when using the recall feature? Does the recall feature work if using the remote transmitter?

Also change to PTU fluid at 30k intervals. (Part of the gen 1 maintenance manual).

Check with a local transmission shop. Make certain they use OEM lube (even if you have to supply).

1/4 mile, high-speed run on city streets? Around here we call that a Starbucks run near closing time.

Congratulate me. I retired last Friday. Can't get used to sitting around watching tv. Been saving hard since mid 90's when 401k programs first came out, so well off finanically, but hard to get used to the boredom. Thinking of taking up amateur bartending - ha.