garycrist

Not a bad deal as it is only 16 !/2 cents per mile + expenses and about 145 gallons of fuel per year.

Your remote or vehicle is getting jammed by a stronger frequency. Hackers can hang around crowded parking lots and scrape the owner's key fob code and spoof it. Once spoofed, they open the door as the alarms are off. Plug in to the OBDII port, and make a new key fob. Start the car and..... Store your key fob in a Faraday shielded fob case. In crowded parking lots, try to not use the fob to remote lock ( hit twice for that good old "it's locked" feeling) the doors, lift the hatch etc. The new breed of car thieves are pretty dang smart!

!300 CC VWs used to do that same sort of thing with about 30K. The head poped off the stem. Just plain dumb luck or excessive revs.

Why did you replace the plugs to begin with? Did it jerk/stagger before the plugs were replaced? Try lowering the gap down to .28 It might be you are "blowing out" the spark with a wide gap. What was the gap on the old plugs?

Spark plugs breaking down under load will cause that problem.How old and what kind gap etc.? Boosted engines "loves dem plugs".

Under the left passenger seat. If not here is a different way.

We did our yearly service on the Ceramic coating at Sparkle and Shine McKinney Texas. It looks better than it did when we bought it last year! Trey does GREAT detail work and I mean DETAIL down to the tiniest nooks! I even got great marks for NOT leaving marks during this past year! As crippled as I am, it takes about 30 minutes to wash and dry the "Black Momba". (Yes I know it is spelled with an A but, it my wife's pride and joy!)

More fun for being cool.

Have you measured the temps of the rotors?

I am not an expert nor have much knowledge of tunes etc. Remember, we are lugging around 2 1/4 tons of car around! With a 120 CID engine (2.0 L) X 15 PSI = 240 HP For each atmosphere (15 PSI or 1 Bar or Atmosphere) an engine doubles in size and HP! So to get about 450+ HP, one is going to need somewhere about 30-35 PSI. The fuel system will need to double to triple it's output. Did I mention boost lag with such 1 large turbo? That is why staged turbo systems are made on more expensive vehicles. Rather than making more power, I would make a "Canyon Carver" by doing the suspension wheels and tires

How do you know the brakes are dragging?

I have wondered about this little device.... https://www.4dtech.com/canopener-motion-unlock-360-camera-unlock/

it ain't like the good old days anymore! That is why "Tunes" are sold. The BOV just ducts to the engine bay, so one may hear the "whoosh" instead of dumping back into the intake side. Also, forget the pedal BS too. The pedal mod, pops the throttle open quicker but, the turbo/s spool up only so fast! The down side as I see it, is say one has been sitting idling a tad, and the "Stop Light Grand Prix" urge hits. All the while, the oil has been accumulating on the cylinders, rings and skirts of the pistons has not burned off. The mapping is set to deliver a 1st. shot of fuel (keeps the duty cycles down on the injectors) this happens before another richer mixture is injected that is closer dynamically to the spark plug just before TDC. This is similar to Honda's "Stratified Charge" but without the extra combustion chamber and valve. This 1st. fuel charge (very lean relative to the total mixture) mixes with the residual oil that has not burned off. Unfortunately, the octane rating is lower than the oil as well as the fuel. This is a culprit to Low Speed Pr-Ignition (LSPI). LSPI burns holes into pistons, breaks rings, lands and the best part by the time one gets a hint, TOO LATE! This is why oil specs were changed for Direct Injection (DI) and especially DI turbo engines. Save your bucks. Tune inter-cooler and bigger "Snails".

Biggest loose nut I've ever seen, was behind the wheel........ Got ya'...... She was nuts all right!🙃

I did so too! Good stuff!

Recently there was some discussion over LV and ULV transmission fluids. Well if we have not come back full circle! It was type F or Dextron. F was a low viscosity fluid and Dex was a higher viscosity with more lubricity. Then came B&M trick shift that was thinner than Dex but more lubricity than type F. Thicker fluid makes the transmission shift smoother or slide into gear slower, making more heat eating the factory clutches if the Teflon seals did not fail first..(GM 350s and 400s). Why all of the above? Reading the new Ford literature, they now call our transmissions (ST) Quick Shifting!!!🤣 Just like we used to do back then, put a lower viscosity fluid in after we modded the transmission. The transmissions shifted firm, but not harsh.At WOT no more slide into gear especially 2 3!

If you are talking about the bellows on the end, I used to rebuild or replace those. I even built a band tightening tool from a jack handle from a Ford Maverick and a bolt and nut.(One may now buy the tool) To replace the axle boot. Cut off the bands and cut off the boot. After removing as much grease as possible. Some axles are held in with a snap ring that compresses into a recess of the axle, while some have an external snap ring that must be expanded after removal from the center section. If internal snap ring, a quick jerk will separate the axle from the stub axle like one removed the axle from the transmission. If not, the procedure to remove the cage and ball bearings are the same. Rotate the cage until a ball can be removed. Do the rest of the balls and separate the cage. Clean the grease out and inspect for wear on the stub axle and the balls. I did this garbage when a rebuilt was hundreds of $$$ way back then, or way over $1500 now! But, for under $100 for a rebuilt, I would not mess with it!

Before you run out and buy backing plates etc. If extra cooling is what you are after, have you looked at something like add-on Corvette front disc brake duct tubes? I do not know what is behind the fake duct covers in the front "bumper" but.

Also the backing plates for the PP open in the front pulling cooling air into the inside of the rotor exiting the top. The other as stated above, pulls cooling air at the top of the rotor and expelling hot air out the bottom and out to the rear opening of the backing plate. Otherwise the rotors are the same.

I misread 303 instead of 302. So, I instead mean #2 hole.

It could be a leaky injector leaking down after it sits. If vacuum accessories, how are the vacuum lines? What did # 3 plug look like as compared to the others? Any coolant loss? If the PCV dumps into the #3 area of the intake mannifold, then it could be carbon on the intake valve/s. If it does it a lot, after shutting down the car for the night, remove the coolant tank cap to relieve the pressure on the system. If that stops the 303 on start-up, then it's head/head gasket/engine time. Gl 73

As for power of a 4 cyl. engine, I seem to remember an Offy 4 @ 2.6L making 750+ HP. SPEED Horse Power costs money. Made in China is a deal breaker. Any way, they are built for the Chinese market with the US as secondary... I wonder what spyware in the OS, is given to the user for free!

Let me qualify 1st. I have never done one of those but, I've done SOHC as well as DOHC since 1972. If the tensioner is all the way retracted, drop the chain from the bottom sprocket and rotate 1 tooth by hand. If you have to, rotate the engine by hand clock wise to get some slack from the right side to drop the chain. It is best done with the spark plugs removed too!

@kruzr1, If cars were as dependable as stated by the manufacturer, then a warranty would not be needed. Most mechanics/technicians would be out of a job and who would need expensive systems just to figure what might be repaired. Speaking of computers and their dependability, as you might know, there was a global computer-internet break-down today 7/19/2024. As you know, just 1 bad input that is not in the "Look-up Table" or conflicts in the interrupts will throw a code and possibly a CEL, or Wrench code etc..

Keep enjoying and don't worry 'bout it! If it happens, just turn it off wait a little bit and refire your beauty! These things are just like one's computer. Just rebooting solves a lot of problems.