garycrist

I forgot they put a clutch on the alternator! My, my, my, how things changed since I wrenched!

Sound like a loose alternator belt. You stated it squeals at idle and at high loads. Time to put a volt meter on your beast. Old Ford test was after checking belts. 1. Take resting battery voltage it should be about 12.8V 2. Turn on all accessories and run at 2500 RPM. Voltage should be 1/2 Volt higher. 3. With all accessories on battery voltage should not fall more than 1/2 volt at idle. Replace alternator if out of specs. I realize thing have changed but check your alternator belt 1st.

Back in the day, we used to call them "Oil Company Warranties" as that was who sponsored a lot of those worthless warranties. The client depended on them and they companies were slow or never pay. At the end of the day we would lose the client not to our fault. I would recommend a Ford ESP Premium always. Not as much hassle for the client.

It sounds like either a ball joint sticking or the top plat strut bearing.. Also see if this replacement video helps you trace your problem.

At least I've hidden my identity.🤣🤣 DE KI6FG

Hey thank you @canucklehead for posting your fix for others too. It took me over a year to find that stupid speaker! It was thanks to @Haz for publishing the hint on where to find that speaker! And as you found out, it was an easy fix. If I was still working in a dealership, that would be a money maker to "Flat Rate". If one is not familiar with the term "Flat Rate", it is where one looks up the labor rate in hours to perform a certain job. As @Haz posted these steps to R&R the part, the rate was set for that job. Where Technicians can make money is by what I posted. Is it fair? It all depended with me, when I had a chance, on client attitude! In Cali, I used to have a 2-3 week waiting line for repairs! Sometimes a box of donuts would save a person LOTS OF DOLLARS!

Good luck and take a box of donuts with you when you visit! Put an envelope with a note to take care of you and a $20 bill under the hood where the technician will find it. Stuff like that will go a LONG WAY!

That is the speaker I replaced. It is hidden behind the trim panel. It is easy to seperate from the trim to give a peek with a flashlight to see it. No screws or clips to remove.

Ford had too many problems with false drops on the liftgate. No hands free, no more law suits.

I have often wondered if engineers received trips to Hawaii for making stupid design flaws to shorten the life of vehicles. It is too bad we have devolved into a throw-away culture without pride in workmanship!

Give this trick a try...

How old is your ST's battery?

Fan relays are a popular replacement.

Hey thanks @Haz, it was schematics like you provide that allowed me to find a power transistor that always failed on Cadillac DFI of the mid to late 70's! I fixed the computers for $2 transistor and resold them for $350 or $375 installed!

I will bet it will never open as manufacturing will be moved to Mexico.

YUP, the wife has already done the "bone glue" route and I already don't like the L4-L3 but, I'm still going! If you try ST seats, they will be difficult to get in and out of. Once in, they will be GREAT! One trick though, is to drop them all the way back and down, to make it "easier" to get out. I have wondered if I could adapt some retractable running boards on the ST. That would be a dream come true for both my wife and me.

Ford seats have been #1 in comfortability in most tests. I have an '08 Limited w/ leather seats. I "feel your pain" as I've had 1-L5 X 2 and the last a 360 from L4, L5, S1. Look around for a Edge Limited about your year on used car lots. Go try the seats. If you find them comfortable, find some used ones hopefully close to your location. The side bolsters are not as pronounced as the cloth ones.

What did I do today? Well it took me 2 days to do what you guys can do in no time. I washed them and dried them off. At least one is black and one is sand-white. The black ST has Ceramic Pro and I've never seen an easier way to wash it. I dry it with a drying towel. Gone are the days of chamois and wringers! With the coating, if the St is not too dirty, I can do an almost water less wash in about 30 minutes, excluding the wheels. The white one, a lot longer, as it needs a clay-bar, buff and wax! But,for over 210K miles, it looks pretty!

If one loves their Edge long enough and the Sun beats down long enough the rubber gasket starts to rot. Once rotted the air leaks from the cabin and wind noise ensues. If the deteriorated rubber is removed the window will rattle and is not secure. A simple fix is to remove the rubber from the perimeter, starting at the back rear of the passenger's rear wing -glass. Remove the rubber from the bottom to the top, then around the corner, ending at the back top of the window post. Take a piece of 7/32 in vacuum line and stuff it into the channel from the bottom to the top and around the top corner, ending behind the top of the back of the window channel.

It was just like at Ebay. Blue anodized strut tower connectors that will attach to the strut tower. The cross-bar that will be attached to the braces with a chromed bolt,washer,lock-washer and nut. The cross-bar is polished bright Al. Wife is at relatives today showing off my detail work. It is easy a ever to wash with the ceramic coating we did when we bought it. So next week some time I'll get one of them Round Tuits. Also a wind noise reduction post for older Edges.

I will bet none of them have ever ground "hot spots" out of a brake drum. Nor, have they ever seen a drum so bad with "spots" they had to be thrown away. Now a lot of aftermarket flywheels have a replaceable or harden areas where the friction material contacts. Some have (flywheels) have grooves (like brake rotors) to get rid if the out-gassing and prevent micro-welding or metal smearing. I have used flywheels as they can represent one of the most extremes as are brake drums. Those grooves in the rotor as well as hot-spots in drum brakes are analogous to "flat-spots" in a tire! Once one puts a flat spot in a tire, no matter the size, every time a lock-up or near lock-up occurs it will almost always hit the flat-spot thus exacerbating the problem. Lastly there just "ain't no space tween that rotor and brake pad"!

Good luck on your "New Edge" may it run for another 100K! Our 2008 Limited is going on 210K and still running but only 20K on our "New Baby" a 22 Edge ST.

It starts from "hard spots" in the pads. It is from the mixture of materials in the pad material before it is formed and fired or baked. The pad is not homogeneous, but a mixture for an example, steel wool, copper bits for heat extraction a bonding agent baked then glued or riveted to the steel backing plate. As the pads apply, heat is generated in the of a rotor. Cooling differences, will lead to "hot spots" that change the surface hardness in a particular spot leading to irregular wear patterns.

I just bought one for my 2022 ST from Canfield on EBAY. Tell them what year ans details. It will take a couple of weeks before it arrives from China via Hong Kong. You will need 4 extra bolts , washers and lock-washers. They are metric. When the parts store opens Monday, I'll go said parts! It looks like the passenger side looks to be the funnest, so I'll start there 1st. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ssn=kf1386&store_name=carfieldenterprisestrutbar&_oac=1&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211

All I meant was I turned off the car and restarted it!