lildisco

i knew that the gas station thing would come up. believe it or not, i used the exact same gas stations on the way home, so that's not it. All Exxon gas stations till I got home then it was Sunoco. I understand what you're saying, but the computers have the ability to relearn all kinds of things, atmospheric conditions, shift points, driver input etc. If the computer would only be set once & adjust itself over a greater period of time, kinda like what you're implying, why does have it to relearn those parameters if say you change out the battery over a few miles? And yes, completely unscientific, but I have done this several times & have noticed an increase each time. (I just forget about doing it when i swap over my winter/summer wheels.) I also noticed that my LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trim) was around 8-9% on the way down to SC, but after the ECU Reset & several hours of driving, my LTFT were around 3-4%. Again, there's no ill effects if you do this, minus the possibility of harder shifts, throttle input, etc, for a few miles while the ECU re-learns driving patterns, even states this in the Owners Manual.

It's never really learned the waterpro's driving style, it has 37k+ miles of the previous owners driving style. There is really no harm in reseting the ecu. It just has to re-learn a few parameters & adjust a few things accordingly. I have to do it every spring because my mpg is worse because of winter blend & my wife's driving style (long periods of idling to warm up, etc) Why on a 1,800 mile road trip all highway, could i only get 26-27mpg in 65 degree weather & no a/c running going down to sea level , but got 29mpg+ coming back up to Ohio while running the A/C? The only difference being resetting the ECU. There's no catastrophic things that happen when you reset the ECU. It just forces the computer to re-learn the now instead of the previous period. Are there a few inconveniences? Sure, like slightly harder shifting for a few miles & not being able to pass echeck (if you still have that in your area) for a day or 2.

If you haven't already done so, check your tire pressures, i usually keep mine around 37-38psi. Also disconnect your positive battery cable for 30-40 minutes to reset the ecu. I could barely achieve 26-27mpg on a trip down to south carolina from ohio. I reset the ecu about 3/4 of the way back up to ohio & my mpg went up about 3-4mpg. I was averaging 32mpg in the hills of West Virginia, but hit rain & traffic in Ohio & brought it down to 29.7, manually calculated. When you reset the ecu, your edge will take a few miles to relearn its shift points & other variables (basically learns your driving style). I'd recommend that you do this on a good solid highway run, like an 1-2 hours straight highway run. But, realistically, 20-40 minutes on the highway should be fine.

My 2.0 Ecoboost SEL gets close to 600 miles (965 km) to a tank all highway. It averages around 25.6mpg overall, but on all highway it's 28-29mpg. Right now, i have nearly 200 miles to a 1/4 tank

Not sure if i can/could justify the 70/cent + a gallon for 93. Don't get me wrong, i understand that 93 will give me the best gains, but our Edge is really only a to/from work & travel car. Drive ability would be nice as i often find myself in sport mode for quick maneuvers. Did you notice if boost was increased? I believe that I've seen a 21psi spike before. I'm slightly more interested in the LTFT. The edge sits around 8-9% (been awhile since I've looked) which is a bit high IMO. The exhaust tips also say that it's running a bit rich as well.

I've been waiting for a tuning option to become available, i don't see any information on their website for the 2.0 Ecoboost. Do you have any information? Cost? Ease of install? 87, 91, 93 octane tune? Mpg increase? Throttle response?

Pads & rotors are different from a regular edge. I'd imagine that 19's might be the minimum, but not 100%

If you're looking at what it says under fuel economy, then it averages every tank since the car came off the assembly line. I typically reset trip 1 every fill up & don't touch trip 2 to get an average. Also, as i recently found out during a trip to South Carolina & back to Ohio, it helps to reset the ECU when the season changes. I couldn't get much over 26mpg. Reset the the ecu & my mpg went up to around 29. I'm now getting around 27-28mpg to where i was getting maybe 24-25. The temps have been around 70-80 for the last month or so & the my average mpg's has also gone up. Assuming that your from Texas, so you don't usually get summer & winter mix. You can also try to increase your psi in your tires 3-4psi might also help your mileage (assuming that you don't exceed your tires max psi). I should also mention that I have a 2016 2.0 Ecoboost FWD.

Never get exhaust smell inside on any acceleration & recirculating. 1st pic is drivers side 2nd is passenger side. Both are approximately same location on each side of the hatch

I'd say normal. 2016 SEL

This times Eleventybillion! NOBODY at a dealership will wash ANY of our cars. No way! It always cracks me out when people toss in free car washes. IF (that's a HUGE IF) they offered a touchless w/ underbody wash, i might consider it. I've seen these tools drop rags on the floor, & just grind the dirt/debris into paint. Absoluetly not & hope other people take notice & refuse the wash, unless they're touchless & have competent people operating it.

It'd probably be cheaper too! My wife noticed the difference right away, she knew i wasn't going to go OEM. There's also the added bonus of much much less brake dust. On my SEL, there was no need to take the caliper bracket off. The caliper just rests on it. I believe that the front rotors & pads were under $200 & they have a black coating on them that resists corrosion. But to each their own

If you're going to do it, why not go with a quality brand like Centric for Rotors & either Hawk or another quality ceramic pads? If you're already replacing the brakes, then the OEM isn't for you. I replaced the OEM rotors & pads on my non sport 2nd gen with Centric Rotors & Z23 Evolution pads & i have much less brake dust & better stopping power. Unless you damage the caliper bracket when you remove it, there's no need to replace it.

You're on replay. Are you pushing a button or something? Ha e you tried to change the source & come back to sirius?

So it's only going to catch the gunk under non boost situations & only on 1 side. I like the ease of install & placement, but it just doesn't seem like it will do much in preventing most of the gunk from getting by. It certainly is better than nothing! This unit would probably be ok for the average consumer merging onto the Freeway. I'd be a little more concerned if you're a spirited driver or track it. I'm not advocating or promoting any product! Just stating my opinion.

I believe that it's in the left setting menu under settings & vehicle. If not, then you should be able to disable it with FORScan

Wonder if the tank was dented & giving you mis-readings

Fyi, this was my Team RXP catch can on my 2.0 Ecoboost with just around 2,000 miles on it after an oil changed, in January/February with temps at or below freezing. I had nearly the same amount after another 2,000ish miles. Basically had to drain the catch can twice within 4,000ish miles with nearly identical results.

& the Team RXP continues to catch oil/gunk in boost & in vacuum Letting the 5% go by & not worry about the other side doesn't seem right to me. The purpose of a catch can is to catch blow by. Just because 1 side produces more than the other is irrelevant. You want to prevent all that junk from entering the intake manifold that can cause coking & other bad side effects,regardless of what side it's on.

I do this on my cx7. My battery was replaced when i bought it & it lasted nearly 8 years. Only reason I replaced it was because sitting in my driveway working on my tune & listening to the radio for about 20 minutes killed it. The work truck usually last about 3 years & has 2 agm batteries (for an inverter). This is a 2012 & i'm on the 3rd set of batteries.

Congratulations on the new to you purchase!! Only things to watch out for is coking, an oil catch can helps prevent this for as long as possible. If you have the moon roof or BAMR as it's known around here, make sure the tracks are cleaned & lubed. Stock OEM halogen headlights are crap & people usually do the H9 mod to give you more usable light with very little modification. The OEM brakes are ok for stopping, but are HORRIBLE on brake dust. I replaced mine with Centric Premium Blanks & Z23 performance pads. Stopping has improved & brake dust is greatly reduced. The '16 Edge seems to be a solid vehicle & should last awhile as long as you do preventative maintenance.

Took at trip from Ohio to Hilton Head Island, SC & the Edge was awesome. Rode nice, plenty of power in the mountains of West Virginia & fairly decent fuel economy,2.0 Ecoboost FWD. I might drain the catch can later to see if it caught anything during the 1,500ish mile trip. Computer said 33 mpg in West Virginia, but i dropped to 29.1 once we got into ohio & it started raining & dropped my tire pressures about 3psi & temps about 15-20 degrees.

It's not just a can. A good catch can is going to have a couple of different chambers/sections to have the gases to condensate & then collect after that. The el cheapo cans on ebay are usually just an open can with 1 inlet & outlet & nothing to allow the gases to condensate. There's a lot more to a catch can than just a can & piping. A good quality can like teamrxp.com's, you're paying for the quality of the welds & craftsmanship as the well as engineering/research that went into it. (would you really like the can to expand/exploded/leak after the system is pressurized or after a hard run(s)?) Also the teamrxp.com can has 3 connections while most have 2. The purpose is so that you're constantly catching all that gunk in boost & in vacuum,not many cans do that. Again, that's part of the engineering involved. I'm not knocking anyone's product or choices, but i just wanted to make sure that people know that's it just more than a can that goes between intake manifold & pcv.

I've found with my 2.0 Ecoboost that i get more in the winter months that i do the summer months. It catches A LOT when the temps are at freezing & below. I've only had mine on the Edge for 14 months, so i don't have a lot of info if it gets worse with time, but I can tell you that during the summer last year, I barely get a few drops. We'll see if this year makes a bit of a difference. Here's a link to my teamrxp catch can doing it's thing: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13407-what-have-you-done-towith-your-edgemkx-today/?view=findpost&p=179739 http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22063-oil-catch-can-on-the-20l-ecoboost/page-3?do=findComment&comment=184114

Not off the top of my head no... Sorry. If i see this post later, I'll try to do some research