lildisco

In that million+ miles, how many major repairs have been done? Would you expect Toyota to pay for the repairs? All I'm saying is that maintenance is a thing with any vehicle. Preventative maintenance ranks up there as well. I'm not saying that new cars shouldn't last well beyond 200,000 miles, but complaining that a dealer won't warranty parts because the vehicle is 'babied' & only has 174,000 miles on it is just absurd. But, what i do understand is the fact that making serviceable parts not serviceable. If you look at it from the car manufacturers stand point, that's another way for them to make money. If they engineered a vehicle that would never have a problem in 300,000+ miles, it wouldn't cost $35-40,000.it would cost well beyond what anyone on here could afford, but it would never break down. How much money do you think the dealer, manufacturer, mechanics, aftermarket companies, etc.., would make? The simple fact is, the manufacturers of all of these vehicles are designing vehicles that 'shouldn't' need major repairs under 100,000 miles. But there are 100's if not 1000's of variables that they try to account for (aggressive driver, multiple panic stops, hard take offs, weather, road conditions, etc, etc), & i think they're doing a hell of a lot better job now, than what has been done in the past (above land cruiser is a diamond in the rough, but not all land cruisers are at the million mile mark. Semi's regularly hit the million mile mark, but ask them what their repair/maintenance bills are + cost of the Semi). The human factor is the biggest variable that cannot be accounted for. Goes all the way from design, materials used, quality of the materials used, assembly, care/maintenance, driving conditions, etc, etc.

wouldn't an Oil Catch Can work to catch this extra fuel & oil before it reaches the crank case?

So you have nearly 200,000 miles & a 10 year old vehicle (1st gen as well) & you're complaining of 3 components failing? I'd be very happy to only have 3 issues like that on a high mileage 10 year old vehicle Components fail, sometimes regardless of wailing or hot dogging it. Brake booster had an extended warranty on it i believe, PTU was/is known to puke some fluid out of a breather tube. Consensus here is to have a place suck out the old fluid & replace with new. I highly doubt that ANY manufacturer will honor any failed component much over 5 years (I've seen 7 with my CX7) from the original purchase date. Expecting NEVER to have any problem with a vehicle with close to 200,000 miles is pretty absurd, even for foreign cars.

So you filled up the car & it didn't reset? Or do you mean that you filled up your car & that's what the computer said you did? Did you manually calculate yoir tank?

I wish we could of been able to afford a Sport. Couldn't justify spending the extra money for one. Nice Pick Up!

I don't understand why most people think that going to the dealer is the top of the line place to be. Most oil changes & general maintenance are done by their lowest paid techs. Most of them are just there for a paycheck & don't care about anyones car. Should Dealers be held to a higher standard? Yes, absolutely! But, are they? No, not most of the time. Any good 'lube tech' isn't going to last long doing oil changes. They're going to move on to bigger & better (paying) things.

I went through the TPMS malfunction earlier. The problem should go away once sensors get put in their proper locations. If not immediately, will go off after a few miles. What irked me was there was the tires & wheels came off another edge, but the TPMS sensors were from an earlier vehicle & not compatible with my '16. My catch can is on order, so I'm VERY interested in what it'll grab. Better safe than sorry, i guess. I know that on the 15 & up, the turbo's were slightly redesigned with their twin scroll tech. Only time will tell

I'm also wondering if your intake valves are coated will un-burned oil. I'm looking getting a oil catch can. I'm really curious about what the can will catch. I'm approaching 12,000 miles & I've seen a video of a 9,000 mile 2.0 Ecoboost Focus ST where his intake valves are coated with unburned oil. This causes rough idle, hesitation & sluggish take offs. I'm very curious how long these intake valves will last before they need to be cleaned or replaced.

Took a recent trip down to Southern Ohio & back. Made it there & back on 1 tank 381 miles on winter mix fuel & around 75mph. Car said i averaged 27mpg, actual calculation was 25.8 on 14.77 gallons. Not too snabby. I gained a lot when speeds were below 65. The 2nd pic of the computer was before i drove from home to the gas station.

Wasn't saying that you needed to increase the octane, just that maybe if you use 1 particular station, to maybe switch it up to one that is a top tier. The particular gas station that you use could have gotten a bad batch or their tanks could have been contaminated. Just saying that you may want to switch it up. Increasing the octane 'may' help as it does adjust the timing & definitely worth a shot. If it does, I'd be interested to know if the gas station(s) you're using aren't using a quality fuel source & are getting sub par fuel which might be causing your rough idle

What kind of fuel are you using? The Ecoboost is more picky than others. Maybe try a top teir gas station for a few tanks

welp, it won't allow me to send you a PM. Says you're not allowed to receive any more PM's. Hopefully you'll see this.

Ordered the fronts off & they were pretty easy, installed both in under 30 minutes. I do not like how they have 3 metal clips holding the tips of the splash guards in place. Seems like they could rust & fall off & puncture a tire. Jason, I'll send you a PM

If you're driving all highway, i noticed that if there's no headwind or hilly sections, i can get closer to 30mpg or higher. Too much pass 65mph & my fuel economy tanks, barely getting passed 25-26mpg. Planning ahead for stops & acceleration really help. Remember at stop lights you're getting 0mpg & accelerating you get far worse mpg than cruising. Anytime you're accelerating at highway speeds, you're more than likely generating boost & using more fuel. Also using the A/C will zap a few mpg's/kpl's as well.

Try browsing through these: http://www.fuelly.com/car/ford/edge/2016?engineconfig_id=13&bodytype_id=&submodel_id= If your engine is new, there is a break in period, i believe it even says so in the manual. I think it's around 5,000 miles, could be wrong on that. It basically states that your gas mileage is going to be all over the place for the first few thousand miles until the engine breaks in & the car learns your driving habits, like transmission shift points. Currently, i average around 25 mpg or 10.6286 kpl. My average miles per tank is 318.9 or 513.2198 kilometers per tank. Also i don't know if they change your fuel properties up there or not, but I've noticed about a 3 mpg drop since the fuel has switched to winter blend. I'm also fwd so my stats are going to be slightly better than yours anyways because i don't have the rear drivetrain to worry about.

Could also be a wheel bearing. Only noticeable when you but a load by turning a certain way.

I might snatch these up. Are they a pretty straight forward install? Did the front fit on your edge nicely? Do you have pics of the fronts installed? I did a quick google search & didn't find anything but just stand alone pics

Compressed air = hot air, regardless of where you fill it up at. Just remember to check your pressures after you drive around for about 15 minutes or so, i keep the fronts around 37 & the rears around 38.

I guess it's all in how you drive? We have the 2.0 Ecoboost FWD & we're averaging around 25 mpg. Now on winter mix fuel, we're struggling to get 23. If I am the primary driver, there's no issue getting 28 mpg or higher all highway. Most 3.5 V6's that I've seen, average around 18-20 mpg depending on driving habits/conditions & fwd/awd options. Mostly highway, you'll get around 20-22,mostly city, you'll get around 16-18.

A lot of your 'issues' can be resolved with forscan. Double honk, global close/open, climate control on the instrument panel, heated steering wheel option (i know that there's something that forscan can do, but i don't have a heated steering wheel, so i can't say specifically). Also there's a button on my overhead console that allows the interior lights to stay off when the door is opened at night.

Hope this helps: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/21556-2016-sel-winter-wheels/?fromsearch=1

5% Window Tint fixes the frying issue I didn't want it, but the wife did, guess who won? We usually just have the blind back or we have the roof tilted, we rarely have it completely open. Decent option, but very subjective.

http://www.fuelly.com/car/ford/edge/2008 http://www.fuelly.com/car/ford/edge/2007 Our 2016 FWD SEL 2.0 Ecoboost averages around 25. The mpg gauge on the car can be off around 1-2 mpg. As said earlier, it depends on when you reset your gauge too

I had an 06 Mazda 6 that was a pain to get to the low beam bulb. You could do it without removing the headlight if you had tiny hands, but it's a pain. Easiest thing to do was to remove the headlight, which involved removing the whole front bumper.

PM's received & replied. I have a set of liners in my CX7 & like them a lot. I don't know why the OEM's only protect a small area directly under the pedals. I ended up using the oem all weathers & a original carpet mat to protect the areas that it doesn't cover.