lildisco

How long did it take your sensors to re-calibrate? I have probably about 50-60 miles & about an hour of drive time & several key cycles & i still have the TPMS Error. My Tires & wheels are OEM & have the OEM sensors in them, just off of another 2015-2016 Edge.

Never had it last for months, a week & a few days yes. Depends on how much you drive i guess.

I bought a set of OEM 18 wheel for winter. The wife loves the polished aluminum wheels, so i bought the non polished aluminum OEM equivalent for winter duty. I understand that the computer needs to learn the new sensors. It took about 30-40 minutes of driving to get the TPMS Fault on the dash. I saw in another thread that he kept on driving & the car learned the new sensors without any calibration. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19633-how-do-i-reset-the-tpms-for-winter-tires/?do=findComment&comment=158148 My question is, can i do this as well? I've put about another hour or so of driving since the TPMS fault came on & i still have -- next to all 4 corners. I tried an old Ford Reset tool (2008 E-150) & turn on & off the hazards to enter the re-learn procedure, & it doesn't honk the horn like it should. Tried to let air out as well, all the way down to 5 psi, no dice. Do i need to purchase a newer reset tool? I'm going to hold out a few days just to be sure, but I didn't know if someone else has run into this yet. I've pooked around in FORScan, but couldn't find anything other than a DTC for the TPMS sensors. Anyone have any tips?

Used a product called fluid film for years. Multiple different vehicles that helps prevent a lot of salt/brine from reaching the the frame, brake lines, etc. My brother in law & I spray about 10+ vehicles a year for the last 4-5 years,ranging from a rusted 97 blazer, 2002 ford focus, 2003 Toyota Tacoma to a 2015 Toyota 4 Runner & i spray our '16 Edge. Very little, if any, rust exists on those vehicles. Fluid film absorbs into the metal/rust & gives it a protective layer from the elements. I sprayed the Edge as soon as we got it in March & then again a few weeks ago to prepare for winter. I just sprayed in & around the wheel wells tonight when i was swapping to the winter wheels. Google it when you get a chance. It's worth your time to watch some of the videos about it. http://www.fluid-film.com https://m.lowes.com/pd/Fluid-Film-11-75-oz-Fluid-Film-Rust-Corrosion-Preventive-Penetrant-Lubricant/50335157 http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Fluid+film+reviews

I've been wanting to install an OCC on my 2.0 Ecoboost, but I've been waiting until someone comes up with a good location & system. I'm not too keen on having tubes running all over the engine bay like the above installation. On my CX7, we just tapped into the pcv on the crankcase, ran it to the catch can & then back to the intake manifold. The above system is slightly different than what I did on my CX7. I can see the benefits of the above system, but with tubes all over the engine bay, I'm not too sure about the above system. I know that there's 'crud' getting into the engine, so I'd really like to get an OCC installed to prevent that. Has anyone installed one yet? Locations? Tips? Brand? I know that some kits on ebay & other sources are just simply empty bottles that provide no baffling for the 'crud' to accumulate on.

If you're AWD i had my driveshaft on my cx7 become out of balance that caused a lot of vibration at different speeds. Not saying it's your problem, but could be a possibility.

Be very careful, but you can get a utility blade to start it & then you should be able to pull it off by hand after that

For very little money (around $20), you get a lot more usable light. The factory halogens are long life & these are a huge improvement. They're not HID's, but very decent upgrade for cheap: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?t=150621

Video #4. You had me questioning myself & I went & looked at mine & the owners manual. I assumed it was top of the hash marks, but the owners manual says between the 2 holes is good. If close the the fill mark add a little oil. I 'was' just going to let a smidge out, but I think I'll let it be. I'm basically between the hash mark & the full hole. https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2013_Ford_Edge_SE_2.0L_4_Cyl._Turbo/oil/check_oil_level

But the Fluid Film does it's job! Just sucks that you have to clean it more often. Just undercoated the whole car last weekend in preparation for winter. Doors & hinges & other random things will get coated over the next few weeks

lol, what part of If this falls through don't you understand?

If this falls through, i would love these. How much for shipping to 44074? I've been eyeing these since you first posted, but you said you didn't want to ship, if you have PayPal, i can pay fairly quickly.

That's awesome! How'd you manage that one in FORScan?

I was able to disable the double honk as well. The other thing that i'm looking for is the Autolock & ReAutolock. I would like that disabled as well. Anyone have any luck with that? I saw AUTOLOCK's 1-5 somewhere & 1-4 were enabled. Didn't know if that's something i should disable or not EDIT: I guess i successfully typed in the correct #'s & disabled the Autolock feature last night. With these 2 simple modifications has made things a lot nicer!

Was referring to the the pic i posted to where my Edge is the highest, not the highest ever or overall I am looking at a Edge Sport to replace my car when the time comes. Fuelly is a good thing, but I take it with a grain of salt. It kinda gets you in the ballpark, but how your fill your tank & your driving habits are different than others. My lifetime average is 25.5 according to the car, which probably is accurate due to traveling with the car, every gas station is different. Heat/humidity/altitude, etc. According to Fuelly, it's 24.7. We rarely get on the highway & most of the driving we do is around town & country roads. Also when the wife drives the car more (it is hers) the mpg's go down to 23-24, when i drive it goes up to 26-27 according to the car. I also notice that this car hates having the a/c on. It really kills mpg's (as with most cars, lol) I also don't have the start/stop thingy. I snapped these tonight while pulling into the garage. It's been really nice out these past few days & we haven't used the a/c as much.

Guess I'm leading the pack, 2016 2.0 Ecoboost FWD

Depends on the year of the fusion, but i believe in 2015 they redesigned the 2.0 turbo system to a twin scoll on the exhaust side of the turbo, with a few other changes of course. More fuel economy & more power. There's many articles on this on the Google, here's a quick one i found: http://www.carscoops.com/2014/12/ford-details-2015-edges-new-twin-scroll.html?m=1 I have gotten close to 29mpg on my edge after a trip to Virginia Beach & back. 28.72 going through the hills of Pennsylvania & idiotic traffic jams of Virginia. I believe 30 is possible but don't plan on any road trips for awhile to test.

Wasn't referring to HID's except that with the H9 mod is not going to produce as much light as HID's. I was referring to the guy who posted before you complaining about his '16 SEL light output, guess i should have quoted his post to avoid confusion. Yes, HID's are going to be completely different with ballasts & extra wiring

This 'mod' is under $20 & you just have to modify a couple tabs. You get a lot more usable light due to the fact that there's not a coating on the tip of the bulb http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?t=150621 Pic is a comparison of an H11 bulb to H9 bulb

The bulbs you have are Long Life bulbs, simply changing them out to a normal life bulb or a high performance bulb is going to gain you some light. I did a hack that involves a slightly different style of bulb, basically trim 1 small tab, & gained a lot more usable light. Can't remember where i saw it, but a lot of Toyota guys do this 'hack'. It's not HID's, but for the money, it's worth it. I'm waiting for a HID projector housing to become available & have a 'proper HID' lighting. Or go LED whenever the technology gets there

You need to nearly drop the headlight off the grill again, lol. As i said earlier, it's real easy to pull the headlights. Maybe we need to meet uo sometime & use your scantool on my edge. Looks like it has a lot of insider settings! I would advise if you do another video, to turn dow your 'work music' as it was a little difficult to hear what you were saying at times.

Not at this time no, but if you look at the bottom of the headlight, you'll see a plastic piece hanging down from the bottom. That's what the wedge grabs or what the headlight sits in

I gave it a good solid jerk. Looks like it's held in with a clamp/wedge thingy (technical term) that's on the cross member. There's 2 10mm bolts & 1 plastic retainer/screw

These cars are relatively new so I'm not sure where the 'problem spots' are going to be. It took me a couple of cans, but i pulled the underbody felt down, sprayed all under there as well as anything that could get exposed to the salt/brine. Also got the door james, hinges, rear hatch, hood, fuel door, suspension components, etc. I can deal with the 'dirt' around where it was applied as it's protected from the elements. If it takes care of the car, i can deal with the dirty look.

I used this stuff called Fluid Film. I hit all the metal components that could possibly hit with the winter salt/brine right after i first got the car. We've used it for years on our company trucks & there's virtually no rust on any of the underbody or suspension parts. If you Google it, a guy did a test with a mower blade. 1/2 treated with fluid film & the other left alone. The guy stuck it to his mailbox through a winter & the side treated with fluid film looked the day it was sprayed, but the untreated side was coated with rust. My co-worker sprayed his dad's 97 blazer for the last couple of years & his once rust coated frame is starting to look new again. Up here, Lowe's sells it & Rural King sells it. If those aren't available there's always ebay.