lildisco

Rail dust from when it was transported on a rail car either from the factory or when it was transported around to it's designated dealer. http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/how-to-remove-rail-dust-with-carpro-ironx-and-a-clay-bar/

First off, I'm so very glad that i got this done, i would have preferred to this myself, but I'm not very technical when it comes to installing something that didn't come on the car. The Mechanic around the corner from my house, was very interested in this install because he hasn't heard of the issue on Ecoboosts (he's mainly a diesel mechanic, working on VW's & bigger trucks), but also does regular maintenance items on pretty much all vehicles. He was very awesome to deal with & if i have any issues in the future, he's a very nice person to deal with. He's also an independent, so he's always interested in learning more things to improve his business. This kit was purchased from teamrxp.com for around $350 http://teamrxp.com/products/rx-dual-valve-catch-can-kit-2013-2017-ford-escape-20 Here's some Video's/Links that may help you with your installation: 2.0 Focus ST RXP Catch Can Installation: Explain of the importance of a Catch Can & Installation of an RXP Catch Can on a F-150: Another F-150 RXP Catch Can Installation: Tracy Lewis Performance Channel (Multiple RXP Catch Can Installations) - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCedKzubM3TtjdFLS5Y0iU3A General Installation Instructions - http://teamrxp.com/p/instructions First we removed the intake manifold, There's plenty of videos of this online, with some slight variables, but is pretty easy to figure out. We reused the stock connections from the PCV & Intake Manifold: We then decided on a location for the Catch Can. Best place that we could fine, was on the sub frame pretty much right behind the oil drain plug. There's already a hole there & the bracket that came with the can, fit perfectly. With that mounted in it's permeate location, We 'roughly' routed the lines from the Intake Manifold & PCV back to the catch can. After that, we then ran the lines to what they called "in boost evacuation". The best location that we could find, was on the top of the engine & has a yellow connector next to the quick connect. Here's a pic with the Quick Connector removed: We then added the Check Valves & routed the lines back to the Catch can in a more permeate. Zip Tied the line from the "In Boost Evacuation" to the A/C lines so that it we be far enough away from the Turbo & Exhaust Manifold. Here's the pic of the other check valve. This located roughly between the air box & the engine. We had to do a little tinkering with the hose clamps & connectors on the valve cover to get the engine cover to fit. We then added the Clean Side Separator Cap. Now, I wasn't a fan of drilling a hole into the airbox to get filtered fresh air, so i added a simple breather filter on the end of the separator cap. I'm going to tinker with this over the next few weeks to get a better 'look', but as long as you're getting filtered air from somewhere, you're good. I hope this give people a general idea of where/how to mount their Catch Can. This particular catch can, has 3 connections on it, instead of the traditional 2. The traditional 2 connection catch can typically can go in between the intake manifold & the PCV, which may be easier, but it also might not offer the same amount of protection as the teamrxp.com as what was installed today.

More to come when i get to my laptop later tonight

If I'm allowed to be in the shop, i will try

I have an appointment Wednesday to get this catch can installed from a local independent car shop. He's going to see if he might need to fab up something to get the can mounted.

It's possible to, but this is the wife's DD & I'd like to keep it stock as possible. If the TB fails, then yes i would consider a bigger TB as a replacement. I was just really concerned over some of the coking/blow by issues on other ecoboost's. But, after seeing the good condition of mine with 12,100 miles, i feel a hell of a lot better. This car cost nearly double of what her Mazda 6i cost new back in 06 & we want it to last just as long, if not longer than it.

The idea of a catch can is to catch all that gunk & prevent coking occurring on the intake valves. The problem is finding a specific kit for each vehicle. It's next to impossible to build a kit specifically for every type of vehicle. While most installs are similar, the location/placement of the can is going to be different. Since the 'modding' market is slim on the Edge & specific kits are going to be hard to come by. I too, am looking for insight on where to place the can & routing of the lines, but it seems as though we're the innovators that the rest of the people will follow our lead.

I can tell you that while the intake manifold is similar, it is different on the Edge. Particularly, the vacuum line on the drivers side. Took me awhile get the damn thing off. I don't remember what the underneath looks like, but I wonder if that bracket is still there on an automatic. Also, the bracket i received a much smaller bracket in any of the video's i've seen.

Did a pre-inspection/take the intake manifold off to a check for oil & deposits/accumulation, etc. I was very surprised to find very minimal oil accumulation on the valves & the throttle body. My 2.0 Ecoboost has 12,106 miles on it currently. Seeing an older video of a '14 Focus ST with 9,000 miles getting a catch can installed & when they removed the Intake Manifold, Everything was coated with oil. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6Uh3wEoNiM My 2.0 Ecoboost is a 2016 Version (Twin Scroll Version) & since about 2,000 miles, I've changed the Oil with Mobile1 Full Synthetic about every 4,000 (I know, over-kill, but with all the coking issues, I felt it was kinda extra insurance). Here's my Intake Manifold & Throttle Body after removing it from the engine, some oil accumulation, but not a lot: I then cleaned the Throttle Body & IM as a precaution: I'm interested to see what the OCC is going to catch. Still trying to find a good location to mount it.......

The catch can is universal & there really is no specific kit, with the exception of a few quick connectors for the 15+ Ecoboosts. The same principal applies to all vehicles. I've yet to see anything specifically for the 2.0 Ecoboost Edge. I can't figure out a good place to mount the can from above, will probably have to come from the bottom somewhere, just haven't investigated that far yet. I figured out that i can get the intake manifold off with a 1/4 inch ratchet & a small extension. The mounting point is my biggest hold up. I'm also interested in seeing if others have done this. Looking for tips/tricks if anyone has any

Same company i bought mine from. From the pictures/video, it looks easy, but the video is made for an f-150 v6 ecoboost & not a 2.0 edge. I've seen a couple videos to where you take off the intake manifold, but the most passenger bolt is a pain & can't get it off. I also can't figure out where to mount it either. The edge has considerably less room under the hood compared to the 150

I'm having very little success finding anyone that has installed one on a 2.0 Ecoboost Edge. I ordered one from teamrxp.com & it just came in this week. It's a little more complicated than the other ones you see online. It has 3 connections to it instead of 2. I'm having a hard time getting figuring out where to mount it as no one else has done it. I may have to pay a shop to install it & take pictures of the install process as i am no engineer & don't trust myself to make engineering decisions like that. Hopefully someone will chime in that has done this & offer some insight. I've been very interested in this & it seems that no one has posted up any information about it.

The twin scroll technology is designed for better fuel economy & power, but it's not a completely different engine. The 2.0 block is in many different platforms, such as the Focus ST & Fusion & Escape.

Where are you getting your information from? The 2.0 Ecoboost has been & is going to be around for a while. My '16 has the 2.0 & it's also available on the '17 as well. As long as you do regular maintenance & use quality products, it should last for a while. An oil catch can is a way to prolong engine life & performance.

Psst, there's up & down, left & right arrow buttons in the top left corner of the screen to let you know of more options available

No 2nd gen love?

Catch can shouldn't void the warranty, but depends on the dealership. Premium fuel can help, but the flaw with deposits is the design of the direct injection. The intake valves don't clean themselves like traditional engines because the fuel is added in the combustion chamber directly, not like the older engines. The other issue is blow-by, which is where the catch can comes into play. It keeps the oil vaper that gets past the rings, from entering the intake system. The type of oil you use & weight make a difference as well.

So the hour meter resets after 100 hours? I know that the trip meter will continue to roll as I've seen some with pretty much the factory mileage, not on an edge though.

You only have 1,353.7 miles & 24H & 24 minutes on trip 2 I basically do what you do macbwt, but i usually change the pump speed to the slowest setting towards the end of the 1st fill before the 1st click. I then let it rest a few more moments, maybe 15-20 seconds between clicks. Each station is different, so you have to kinda pay attention depending on where you're at.

There's really no replacement for displacement if you are towing a lot. The occasional tow is ok (as long as you're within spec) on either engine. I haven't had any issues with the 2.0 Ecoboost. It's a peppy little engine with little to no lag. It does seem pickier when it comes to the quality of the fuel as a performance & fuel economy. Only issue i have a concern with is the blow by & oil in the in the intake & coking issue. I plan on installing an Oil Catch Can to help combat the above issues. My fuel economy is on par with our old 2006 Mazda 6i with the 2.3L duratec, but the get up & go factor is vastly improved over the Mazda 6.

Maybe we didn't see it in the right light & angle, but we've seen several driving down the road & car lots & they definitely were more green/gray with a hint of blue

Too good to be blue isn't even remotely close to blue, more green with a few hints of blue. Kona Blue is going to be your closest color

If manufacturered in Canada/USA, I'd imagine that they'd follow those specs & in the USA speed limits (in some areas are over 80 mph), I'd say it's around 95-100. But going through the inspections over in the middle east, they may impose a different speed limitation in the computer. But, usually it for what the oem tires are rated at. They don't want you to be traveling at 90 on tires rated 70mph (unlikely rated that low) & blow up while driving down the road. Remember that tires rated at 95 can go for a short while above 95 & not have a problem, but if you're traveling over 100 for an extended period of time (like 10+ minutes) the integrity of the tire will likely degrade & cause a pretty bad accident.

It is usually what the oem tires are rated for. Usually around 100mph

what type of engine do you have 2.0 Turbo or 3.5V6? Could be a number of things, like mentioned above, to cause the cat to fail.