Beezz

Yeah the angle should be the same if the tires are the same width, but if the tires are wider one of these two cases should apply a) if they don't scrub against anything the angle will be the same b ) if they do scrub then the angle would have been reduced to prevent it, or they would have been spaced out further to prevent this, but that means the suspension would have been altered which is highly unlikely. I saw an sel with the 21's this evening, it appeared to be driving just fine, which means that case (a) seems the most plausible. So they all have the same turning radius.

After doing some googling I found this : http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Tire-Size-Calculatorfrom a yahoo answers post, so I compared the sports 20 and 21 rims, and the width difference of the tire is .78 inchs, which is significant. The titanium's width is consistent across all rim sizes so I guess the turning radius should be the same. See below for the 18-20's on the titanium and the 20-21's on the sport

I am cringing at the customs import fees I'd have to pay. Saw a similar solution online before, so I bought some rubber hockey pucks and cut slots in them. They seem to work pretty well. This concept works very well though, and for those of you who go under your car when its on stands the metal adapter is the safer option.

Saw something about this on a wiring diagram the other day, if I am able to find it again I'll let you know. Also, as far as running a hot lead from the battery all the way back to the rear... I did not run it UNDER the car, but rather through all of the hidden wiring channels that run alongside the inside of the edge of the carpet (where the carpeting meets the doors)... but, once I got it up to the driver's side door area, there is absolutely no way to continue it up and through the firewall safely... so I had to drill a hole through the channel at that point, and then run it down under the car (for about 6 inches), then up between the plastic fender liner and over, then fish it through so that it came out just to the right of the battery! Now, to be honest, I've probably done over a hundred radio and lighting installs for my volunteer fire dept. support group... and I've NEVER run into a vehicle that has given me virtually NO OPTIONS for safely running power, lighting and radio cables... like this car has! I don't know why it's built like a tank and you cannot find spots to run wires through... but it is (at least, that was my experience). And wow that still sounds like a ton of work. At least it ended up working for you! Guess they built it to last (hopefully)

I am complaining because in 5 years there is going to be a rust hole the size of my hand. It would have taken them 2 seconds to spray on the coating manually on the line. The paint can be put on easily, but the frame cannot be easily unbent. All of the images with the sealer are from the taillight slots. Takes 5 seconds to take one screw out and you can see everything. The sealer is cracking and isn't applied well. Right under the sealer is the wheel well and inner trunk compartment, if water gets in there the audio controller is toast. I however do see what you mean, it doesn't need to look pretty, but it should still be applied properly. See the attached images. What camera area? Everything with the sealer is in the taillight housing area, the indent is on the frame next to the trailer hitch mount holes. Posted some more pics below. Did you let your dealer know about the paint defect on your edge? I told mine that there was a big drip on the front fender, dirt in the paint on the front door jam, and a chip under the taillight housing, they said they would fix it, but nothing has been done yet, they probably forgot. You're fortunate to have an edge without any rattles, they are so common that its just frustrating. Every time I drive down my street the door panels squeak, rattle, groan etc. The edge is built like a tank on the outside, but the fit and finish isn't up to an acceptable standard. (Don't take this as me raging at you, more like raging at ford for having low standards) Its outrageous, this car was 54'000 before taxes. We test drove a Nissan Murano (same price basically) it was much better put together, the infotainment system was quicker. etc etc. If we paid less than 40'000 I wouldn't be complaining, something this expensive should be put together with quality and care. What features, this thing has a manual adjust steering column, non heated steering wheel, the worst navi unit ever, crap cooled seats, rattles galore, no adaptive cruise control, cheap/ugly looking mirrors, bland dash gauges, not great bolstered seats, the slowest shifting transmission ( Reverse to Drive, and Drive to Reverse) no auto brake hold. A Hyundai Sante fe sport has better/more features than this edge, at a lower price. The Murano has a 360 view camera system (no blind-spot monitoring). Cars that compete with the Edge have some better features for sure. The only reason we got this edge was because of the engine, I wanted something quick. And it also looked really good. My dad told me fords look nice on the outside, but not so much underneath, and the service department often sucks. (+2 points for him) To rant further: Before delivery, the front bumper lip was severely damaged, the rear signature light bar had a crack on the inside, there was paint defects. (bumper and tail light were replaced slightly after delivery) The driver seat memory and power adjustments weren't working, connector wasn't connected properly. I've gotten 2 alignments since we bought the edge, when the dealer checked the angles, they were so off from factory spec that they didn't charge me. The front door panels have rattles, told the dealer about them, their answer was to turn the audio bass and midrange to negative 3 (I am pissed at this 'solution'). The fact that the panels rattle with the audio set at factory settings is outrageous (at 30% volume). Not only do they rattle with the audio system on, but when it is off some of the rattles are still there. There is also a super loud and annoying rattle on the cup holder where it meets the console trim. Water streams from the rear doors onto the interior on both sides whenever the car is wet. The sunroof shade has two marks on it, about 5 inchs in length each. Fuel fill door is damaged. The rear driver side passenger door glossy black panel was cracked and squeaked all the time. Dealer has fixed: Bumper lip, rear signature light, rear passenger door trim panel, wheel alignment Most of the damaged parts were replaced before I could take pictures. I didnt bother to mention the fuel fill door to the dealer as it isn't visible unless you open the door. See the attached pics, I captioned as much as I could. Once again, dont take this personally any of you, I just am frustrated that a car this expensive would have all these stupid problems. I still love it, its fantastic, but its the little things that annoy you.

Ill guess you're talking about the turning diameter right, not the tire diameter (which you're totally right about) There is often a difference in the lock to lock of the steering wheel(at least what I noticed), I should have said larger rims with wider tires will cause a radius increase, (which is usually the case as the rim size goes up) just because the steering system will be set up to prevent the tire from scrubbing on the fender liner and suspension arms.

Yeah the only reason I want to wire it through the rear 12v is because there is no way for me to get under the car and route the wire through to the engine bay. Let alone get it up through there and onto the battery. Considering I'll be doing very little towing I think I can get away with it. I could route the wire through the inside of the vehicle, which will probably look stupid but whatever.Guess its the rear 12v for now. Update: soldered the harness into the rear 12v power lead, was a complete pain but still better than running a wire from the battery. The hardest part was getting the side panels back into place afterwards ( I broke 1 clip) The neg battery terminal was also a pain to remove.

Akirby scroll up a bit (page4), someone (bobs2015edgesport) with the curt harness was also having trouble, they got a new module sent to them with an extra wire.

Sealer has holes in it, is literally smeared on everywhere, no cares given about quality. (sure some cracking is acceptable, but not that one hole) The 'subframe' is bent in about 3mm, the other side is about 2 mm. Also found an area on the subframe that didn't have the corrosion protection, literally as if they missed a spot while coating the part. #fordquality I'll update this when I find more issues in the future.

Installed a Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver Class III for my 15' sport today, along with a T-One wiring harness. The job was a complete pain, it will help if you have 2 people and are able to lift the car up pretty high, otherwise you'll be fighting with everything. It took me a few hours to get the hitch installed, the exhaust had to come down for me to be able to bolt in the hitch. I think an easier approach would be to remove the bumper, which I ended up doing to install the wiring harness. There was literally no room to pull up the wiring as stated in the instructions, you run the risk of damaging a lot of stuff behind the bumper. Also, I highly suggest washing your car the day before you install a hitch, you really dont want stuff dripping onto your face while you're under there. I didn't wash it at all and was battling mud and stone dust the entire day. Duct tape on the guide wires also helps to locate them after you slide them into the 'frame'. The lift-gate sensor still works, just not right under the hitch receiver. I am going to try to wire the power for the light controller into the 12v outlet in the trunk. attached: right side rear wiring, just remove the bumper, unbolt the top black bumper support and slide the wires in (similar on both sides) left side hitch with bolts and guide wires

Although the ground clearance is stated as '8' inchs, I've found its actually a lot less, the rear suspension components are like 4-5 inchs off the ground. This shouldn't really be a problem as with changing terrain the wheels will be moving up and down, just thought I would mention it. Also if you get larger rims the turning radius SUCKS, I am yet to make a u-turn without running over the curb or having to turn out wide. http://www.sandiegouniontribune.com/news/2015/aug/27/Ford-Edge-Sport-AWD/ they state its almost 40 feet for the sport with 21's, which I'd have to agree with, the smaller rims should improve the turning radius (20's or 19's)

That button should be for the lane keeping system on any models equipped with it.

Nick what type of jack stands do you have? I haven't been able to find any that don't destroy the pinch welds.

This one keeps the phone secure, but its a pain putting the phone in and taking it out. http://amzn.to/2aS97A9Also it does end up blocking a vent.

I just have a feeling that the lights will be too bright since the stock halogen housing doesnt have a shutter for the projector beam

It shouldn't as long as you dont have to splice into factory wiring, or cut anything in the headlamp housing. Basically if you can reverse the install process and leave no trace you'll be fine. The rubber boots that seal the housing will have to be cut into, but those are easy to replace if you ever need to. Here is an install vid by Dan at daytimebrights

Exterior lighting is the most annoying modification ever. Since your bulbs just say 55W a retrofit may work. And thats great, let us know how it goes. Someone had to be the guinea pig

Puddle lamps: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-LED-Rear-Side-Mirror-Door-Ghost-Lights-for-Ford-Edge-Explorer-Mondeo-Taurus-/322088158674 They didn't exactly fit, had to grind the metal housing down (built very well) and ended up gluing them in because they still wouldnt snap in. They look pretty awesome at night, however they are not as bright as OnTheeEdge's puddle lamps.

We're all here to help each other out. Brighter halogens will be the easiest and most compatible option. If you were to swap a housing, the light control module would have to be reprogrammed if its even possible.Not to mention the wiring harness might not have the correct wiring for a HID housing. check out this thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/20964-2016-edge-sel-would-sport-headlights-fit/?do=findComment&comment=155880 we're trying to figure out the same thing.

#7 That is true to an extent, most halogens only output ~1500 lumens per bulb, where as a HID bulb can output 3000 + lumens. As long as the HID is being put into a projector housing and not a reflector housing it should be much better than a stock halogen and safe. It should be safe to assume that ford used the same housing for all the NA edges, the projector portion should be the same on a factory non HID / HID. However, if they are not then Nick is right, a HID kit in a halogen projector will be useless and unsafe. Aiming the lights lower isnt the way to fix the beam pattern, the only way to do so is to have the beam physically blocked in the housing, like the factory HIDs do. Some HID kits have protectors on the bulb to cut off the light from being projected, so they should work similar to the shutter in the factory housing. #8 If you wanted to get cooler coloured lights you could check out the higher end halogens: http://www.osram.com/osram_com/products/lamps/vehicle-and-bicycle-lighting/cars/halogen-headlight-lamps-for-cars/index.jsp OR http://amzn.to/2b6qvPs But all of them have an output of ~1500 lumens, so you'll be getting the same usable light, regardless the colour. But in all honesty, anything that says its 'blue' is pretty much useless and will be fairly glaring. Another note, the usable light from a HID bulb basically is at is peak in the 4000-6000K range, any higher and the lights just become bluer and useless. The only way to see if something is going to be better is to try it out, just buy from a company that accepts returns with no conditions. #9 Yeah, there is a light sensor right below the front windshield in front of the speaker in the center, this is probably used for the auto lamps and auto highbeams. The auto highbeam probably also uses the camera on the mirror to recognize oncoming vehicles. This sensor has to be in all the edges that have auto lamps, so in that case the auto highbeam system might work if the settings are programmed correctly. But also the auto highbeam feature can be turned off, so in that case if the sensor isnt installed then there would be no call to it. Side note, how do you like the auto highbeams, do they ever act weird? something i just realized is, the wiring harness might not even have the correct wiring for a hid housing vs the halogen housing, so a swap might not be compatible

No worries, it just seemed like a bulb swap. LOL thats going to be expensive, but if you can find an entire assembly at a reasonable price it should be very easy, you will probably have to ask the dealer to reprogram the lighting module so that it knows there is a different configuration(high/low beam). Also the bumper has to come off to remove the headlamp housing. No worries, lighting mods are usually the most annoying, wiring things in general is annoying. With that said, the kits are relatively straight forward, if you go on youtube search : How To Install an HID Headlight Kit -EricTheCarGuy, you'll have a better idea about them. The kit should look stock from the outside because there is already a projector housing. Under the hood it will look very different, there will be new wiring, ballasts for each side, and possibly holes in the back of the housing for the new wires. They are reliable as long as you get them from a good brand ( just look at the reviews of any product). The blinding I'm not sure about, since the halogen projectors don't have a shutter to cut off the beam, there is a chance that you could blind others. The tricky part is how the low beam and the DRL are in the projector housing, since they come from the same bulb that means that if you were to upgrade to a HID kit, the HIDs would be running during the daytime aswell. If you could, check the back of the bulb that is in the projector slot and see what is written on it, that will give you a better idea if an upgrade is possible. If it says something like 15W/55W then that means it is a dual power bulb and it makes things trickier. Also since the high beam on the non HID edges is in the reflector if you were to upgrade the projector bulb to a HID, whenever you turn on the high beam it might look weird. The reflector bulb cannot be changed into a HID because it would blind others. So basically, if you could post a picture of the bulbs in the housing right now, and possibly take pictures of each lighting mode someone might be able to recommend something for you.

Not really, the sports HIDs function as the high and low beam and the bulb (D3S) is located in the projector housing, the DRL is in the reflector and is an H15. Any non-HID edge has the low beam and drl in the projector housing (bulb: H11LL) , and the high beam is in the reflector housing (bulb is 9005LL) So if you were to put the D3S into the regular projector it would not have the low/high beam cut off & they would be running all the time as your DRL However, you could always get an H11 HID kit and wire that up, just make sure to adjust the headlamps afterwards. If you could, check the back of the bulb that is in the projector housing and see what the wattage is, it could be a dual wattage bulb in which case a HID upgrade kit may not work. Other info: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19941-intro-2015-edge-sport-tuxedo-black/page-2?do=findComment&comment=155817

If you want to know whats going on under the hood : Veepeak Bluetooth OBD2 on amazon (option for android and ios) Apps: - Piston (almost awesome & free) - Torque Lite (ok) - DashCommand (awesome, but pricey for features)

For me: Bottom of seats cool when the AC system is running, backs do not When the AC system is off, the backs cool, the bottoms do not I am beyond confused. Going to have my dealer take a look soon, just concerned about seat damage as other posters have been.

Titanium without HID: Low beam is in the projector, also serves as DRL, manual states bulb # H11LL (H11) Note: this can be changed to a HID bulb, with an upgrade kit High beam is in the reflector housing, manual states bulb # 9005LL (9005) Note: this should not be changed into a HID bulb, high risk of blinding oncoming drivers Titanium with HID: Same as sport with HID Sport without HID: Only saw one, appeared to be the same configuration as the Titanium without HID Sport with HID: High and low beam is only the projector housing, a shutter moves to reveal the rest of the bulbs beam. Bulb: (D3S) Options: http://bit.ly/2aKkhWv Have not purchased this, but it should be the same as the factory D3S Note: These can be upgraded The DRL is in the reflector housing. Bulb: H15 Options: http://bit.ly/2auvA5u Ebay: H15 80W LED Found this bulb type to be better as it operates at 16W which is close to the factory H15 Halogen 15W vs the H15 50W LED which operate at a lower wattage. Also I like this seller, bought several colours, all looked great - white 6000K was the brightest, shipping was long but still arrived on time. Note: do not use the H15 LED for your highbeam, they will suck.