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Everything posted by 1004ron
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I like the metal canister if its mounting orientation allows you to remove it without a major mess. I buy OEM service parts from Amazon (Greenway Ford). Motorcraft FL2062 Oil Filter $7.52
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DRL Change
1004ron replied to 15FireSport's topic in Glass, Lenses, Lighting, Mirrors, Sunroof (BAMR), Wipers
Guys, sorry for coming back to you on this, but I'm still not 100% sure on what to get. It appears that the switchback 7443 lights are what we should use, which is a dual light - now for my question, is the Sport really a dual light and is it the 7443 Standard connector? I'll be going with the AO switching option - Amber On - Amber Off - Amber On. Edit: Roots, I found your post where you mentioned the wiring modification to make the switchbacks work - could you give me a little more detail on how you did that? If the original globe is a single filament, how does it switch from low power to high power when the turn signals are on, and how would an LED work? -
True in most cases, but not with this engine. If hey forgot to put coolant in the engine, the coolant pump mechanical seal could be damaged. Why would they need to drain the coolant to replace the serpentine belt?
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My local dealership uses oil I supply, Mobil-1, when doing "The Works" for $39 and deduct a small amount for the oil that they would have supplied.
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DRL Change
1004ron replied to 15FireSport's topic in Glass, Lenses, Lighting, Mirrors, Sunroof (BAMR), Wipers
Nick, I'm keen to change the front turn signals to LED - please let me know which globes and how to go about turning off the hyper flash in Forscan. I still need to buy a connector/communication device for Forscan. -
They'd also be missing the thread title "2017 Ford Edge Sport Gas Mileage", which I believe are all AWD.
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I'm now at 16K miles and getting a steady 23 mpg, but on occasions , when I wear my lead boots , it drops off sharply. I'm happy with the performance and consumption. It has such good low down torque that I could do my complete commute without exceeding 2200 rpm - that's where the tacho sits at 80 mph on the highway - for my regular driving the tach doesn't go past 3000 rpm.
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@Beezz are you planning to install another catch can?
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I think this issue is related to combustion gas passing the rings and pressurizing the crankcase. I don't know if Ford use special low friction rings, but if they do and these result in increased bypass, it would be less fuel efficient.
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I'm keen to hear first hand reviews from our members here, vs others on Youtube who drain quarts from their catch cans after a couple of hundred miles. It can only be considered "insurance" if its confirmed to meet the claims.
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Makes you question how some of those YouTube posters collect a pint over a few hundred miles.
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http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/20911-27eb-oil-catch-can-lms-tune/page-3 post 42 I'm not bothering with it after reading that. Didn't your Google Youtube search come up with existing threads on here?
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Any chance you could post a link to where you read that?
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Thanks. I'll stick with the GL-5, seeing as the application isn't really very strenuous. I have been using the Shockproof in my Harley transmission for many years. Now to find a pump that fits the smaller opening on the Red Line bottles.
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Thanks for all the useful comments. I decided to order 3 quarts of the Redline GL-5 - is that best suited, or the standard non-GL-5 ? Red Line 57904 (75W90) Synthetic Gear Oil - 1 Quart
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Took a look under rear end, and as can be seen in the photo of the RDU, I'll most certainly not be pulling the rear cover, but good to hear that 'suck & fill' works well. One more question, what oil is recommended by the forum members - the owners manual doesn't specify synthetic, so would syn be better or could it cause problems? I was thinking of using this oil: Royal Purple 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil 01300
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You're right, that is a striking resemblance.
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Is the RDU oil change straight forward - I guess you need to use an oil extractor, or do folks pull the rear cover and replace the gasket?
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What did you pay for 2017 Edge Titanium
1004ron replied to iowa27's topic in Buying, Leasing & Ordering
I've never driven an Edge with a 2.0L ecoboost engine, but it just sounds too small for this size vehicle. $36K for a 3.5L would be a good price if it's brand new. I'm sure you're only looking for comments on pricing of new 2017 models, is that correct? -
What did you pay for 2017 Edge Titanium
1004ron replied to iowa27's topic in Buying, Leasing & Ordering
The price at my local dealership is $36,214 http://www.tricountyford.com/new/Ford/2017-Ford-Edge-6dd310a80a0e0ae8284806094ae8e80b.htm What engine? -
What did you pay for 2017 Edge Titanium
1004ron replied to iowa27's topic in Buying, Leasing & Ordering
Is it new or used? -
DRL Change
1004ron replied to 15FireSport's topic in Glass, Lenses, Lighting, Mirrors, Sunroof (BAMR), Wipers
I also have the HID's and they are used for high and low beam, and I have the selection for DRL's on or off in the menu, but just cannot get those inboard lamps to come on. Inside may garage the lights come on in auto, so I took it out into the sunlight and they went off, but no DRL inboard lights switch on. My turn indicators stay on and change brightness when indicating - could this be the DRL's on my model? What am I missing here? I'd also like to get the LED's, but first need to see these inboard lamps turn on. Edit: Thanks to @15FireSport I got my DRL's to turn on - not sure why I couldn't get them to work yesterday, but it was a simple as having it in daylight and gear selected to Drive. -
I only disconnect the coils when I store my vehicle because I don't run it for months, and that way when I first crank it , it doesn't fire up allowing it to first build oil pressure and deliver it to all locations before I actually allow it to fire up. Marine Stabil should be fine - I use this one: https://www.goldeagle.com/product/sta-bil-fuel-stabilizer/ https://www.goldeagle.com/tips-tools/top-five-sta-bil-product-myths-debunked/ Get a battery tender that has the capacity to power the alarm if you have one, while also maintaining the battery - if not near a power source the solar tenders work well. Occasional drives need to be at least 30-minutes in order to evaporate any moisture on the engine and exhaust.
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Use a car cover Pump tires 5 to 10 psi higher than normal Full tank of gas with Stabil Oily rag in exhaust tail pipes and air intake Connect battery tender Disconnect ignition coils (when you intend starting it, crank it over for a while until the oil pressure light goes off, then connect coils and let it start) It would be better not to drive it occasionally if the drive wasn't long enough to fully heat up everything.
