Waldo

Fit, yes, but work good? That's a different question. Springs and dampers are tuned to the specific mass of a car. Assuming that a Sport is a little heavier, especially on the front axle, it means you're SE is going to sit higher and ride harder in the front than a normal Sport would.

I wouldn't call it a "solution" either. It's merely a reduction in risk. I'm sure it's not a 100% reduction in risk, therefore it's not a "solution". Without data, we really don't know if that means it goes from a 95% chance of failure to 5%, 95% to 85% or a 5% chance to 4%.

For several decades, people who used cruise control would understand that the car would go faster down hill then their set speed, so they learned they had to use the brakes, then hit resume at the bottom of the hill. Then manufacturers started adding engine controls that downshifted the engine while using the cruise. Some people (like you and me) quite liked that, but most people (the vast majority of people who don't know to downshift going down hills anyway) didn't understand what was going on and thought the loud noises coming from the engine meant that it was broken or about to explode. They then complained to the manufacturers and thus the manufacturers are changing things again in response to the complaints. Let's not mix what your expectations are versus the majority of the population. Car people - the ones who tend to seek out forums - don't really understand how much in the minority their opinions and knowledge about cars really are. If you took a survey on this forum, you'd probably find 75% of the responses would say downshifting on hills is important. If you asked 100 people in the Walmart parking lot, you'd probably find 90 of them don't even know what downshifting is.

You're still missing my point. This is in the ADAPTIVE CRUISE section. It is not in the BRAKES section or the TRANSMISSION section, because when your vehicle is going down a hill with Adaptive Cruise on, it is using the brakes DIFFERENTLY than when you are driving manually. The brake overheating it's referring to will result in a loss of Adaptive Cruise control, not a loss of braking as you are thinking of it. As I mentioned in my example above, I had the Adaptive Cruise control disengage on me in a similar situation even though the actual brakes were stone-cold and I was going 3mph. In other words, if you don't use Adaptive Cruise, your brake system won't overheat.

Then why wouldn't Ford put something in the Owner's manual in the BRAKES or TRANSMISSION section? As I stated above, Adaptive Cruise uses the brakes differently then when you are driving using the brake pedal. It relies on the brakes operating in the linear range of friction and is designed to shut down well before there is a SAFETY issue. Please don't start calling out "FAKE NEWS" about systems of which you do not understand. The Owner's manual does not say anywhere in it that the brakes will overheat when driving in mountainous terrain while driving normally. Trying to extract one statement and apply it to other scenarios is how FAKE NEWS is created. The Edge meets all FMVSS requirements for both brake and transmission systems, so if you have a problem with this, you need to challenge their requirements, not complain about Ford.

First of all, the Adaptive Cruise section in the owner's manual is written by the Adaptive Cruise team, it's likely not even reviewed by the brakes team or the transmission team. It's a generic block of text that's used in all Ford/Lincoln vehicles. Secondly, driving with the Adaptive Cruise is different than driving without it. The "brakes" overheating isn't the actual rotors and pads, it's the servos in the HCU that overheat from duty cycles. The servos that are not used when you are activating the pedal with your foot. One time I was driving a new Expedition across the border into Canada. It was a long line, but I was able to use the adaptive cruise to keep it inching along. After about 15 minutes, the Cruise quit because the servos had overheated, even though I hadn't been driving more than about 3mph the entire time. Thirdly, the non-Adaptive Cruise recommendation to downshift is simply because if you used the brakes, you would cancel the cruise control. The cruise control system has no other method of slowing the vehicle down (too many people complained when Ford used to allow the cruise to downshift on hills, so that feature was removed). Has nothing to do with safety or brake overheating. So while I can sympathize with the missing grade assist controls, it is at most an inconvenience, it is not a SAFETY issue. The brakes in the Edge are sized sufficiently that they won't overheat if you drive properly in mountainous conditions.

I'm not seeing any of that in the owner's manuals I can find online. Can you specify a page number? Only thing I can find is in the section on AWD under "Driving on Hilly or Sloping Terrain" where it says "Descend a hill in the same gear you would use to climb up the hill to avoid excessive brake application and brake overheating". But this is clearly referring to an off-road scenario, not the highway driving you are talking about.

The question is what do you hope to gain by updating software? Ford is continuously updating software, but that is usually only in the pursuit of fixing problems. If you have a problem and you are under warranty, you can take the car to the dealer and Ford will update it. If you don't have a problem, then Ford will not update unless you offer to pay for it yourself. In the case of your Honda, there could be a lot more going on. Often times OEMs will switch suppliers on subsystems like lane keeping/cameras and the new software isn't compatible with the older modules. Or there may be other interactions that haven't been tested and therefore they won't update because it could introduce other unknown problems. Unfortunately Ford is still several years away from having a clean Over-the-Air update system like Tesla, so for the moment it's only a "fix what's broke" kind of system.

There are more ways than just the electronic traces to see if something has been modified. I'm not saying it would be a clear cut case, but Ford has published documents to dealers on how to inspect for signs that vehicles have been modified beyond just the memory in the electronics. With these kinds of devices, you just have to ask yourself "If it's really so much better, why didn't it come from the factory that way"?

You're right, Ford does often prevent full throttle openings, especially at low speeds. They do this specifically to reduce the torque going through the drivetrain to make it last longer. If what you have is doing what you say it is, then it's exactly the same as a tune, it's putting more torque than stock through the drivetrain and it is accelerating the wear on the drivetrain. This will void your warranty just as much as a tune will and the dealers have ways of determining if you have done something like this even if you have removed it. So beware.

Why are you even changing coolant on a 2 year old vehicle with 32K kms? You would have been good to go for at least 4 more years! Sometimes messing with stuff causes more problems than it solves.

If ANYTHING is leaking it will be covered by the warranty, except maybe your washer fluid. The dealer's don't decide what get's covered under warranty, Ford does, though with good dealers Ford will trust the dealer to make the judgement, but ultimately if you disagree with the dealer, you can take it up with Ford. Known issues or not-known issues do not change the status of warranty coverage. But you can't just go in and say "I hear others have problems with XX, so please fix it on mine". You have to actually have a problem for anything to be covered.

Are you saying that every time you are stopped at a traffic light behind another car, you stare intently straight ahead for the entire duration? Imagine the scenario where you're stopped in a pack of cars at a red traffic light and you're looking off to the side at something. A pedestrian starts crossing the street in between your car and the one in front. But just as they are coming up to your bumper, the car in front starts moving, so your ACC starts moving your car too. Crunch. Or what about if you open the window and decide to buy a newspaper or something from a street vendor. Could be a big problem if your car started moving while you had your hands out the window. There are also scenarios where things can change while you're stopped, like things that move in front of you that the radar can't pick up like a dog or small child. And again on the lane change scenario, if you assume the system doesn't see the lane markings, then to the radar that different vector looks exactly like the other car starting a large radius curve in the road. That's a scenario where it already uses AI to assume that you're going to have to start making that same turn and thus it should NOT slow down. Obviously there's still work to be done, like incorporating camera input and even using predictive behavior (the car in the other lane is catching the car in front of him, so he's likely to change lanes in front of me), but for now it's not a simple solution.

xx

Most of what you want in the first point will be coming in the next generation of the feature. The problem with the cars entering the lane scenario is that in the radar, a car moving into your lane looks a lot like a car starting a sweeping turn. If you started slowing down every time a car started moving into your lane, you'd also be slowing down every time you came to a curve and there was another car ahead of you in the lane on the outside of the curve. Maybe with some further refinements of combining the camera and radar that could be worked out though. I'm surprised that start/stop still activates when you have disable it. That doesn't sound right, are you sure it's still disabled and you didn't switch drive modes or something? But why not just leave it on? It DOES save fuel and it DOESN'T cause excess wear on anything. The resume is necessary though because once you've stopped for a certain period of time, the lawyers want to make sure you're still paying attention. That has nothing to do with start/stop though, that's been the case on all vehicles with full stop cruise control (I think it's actually a FMVSS requirement, not a Ford thing).

Yes the PTU is still spinning the driveshaft. It is connected to the engine/transmission by a bunch of solid metal. There is no way to disconnect it.

Good grief you guys are ridiculous. There's nothing you can do to a car in 70km that's ever going to cause "huge power train failure". If any of you actually saw how they drive every single car around the plant, you'd probably never buy any one of them.

I think he's talking about the "tire spoilers" in front of the rear wheels. Their purpose is to direct air away from the moving tire and yes they do make a small difference in fuel economy. Probably not enough difference that you could ever reliably measure, but over the life of the car it would add up to a few gallons.

That's your air intake tube. If it's broken then it likely means you've been getting dirty air into the engine (air is coming in after the air filter). This could cause damage to your throttle body or air flow sensor which could confuse the engine enough to cause it to stall.

If it was really that easy, why wouldn't Ford just do it that way from the factory?

When you are following another vehicle fairly closely the camera's view of the lines is blocked, so it can only see the lines right in front of your vehicle. This is good enough for Lane Keeping, since it only has to react when you get close to a line, but if it only used the camera in this case you'd end up bouncing around a lot in the lane and it would be late to react to curves. So it uses the radar to assume you're generally following the vehicle in front and sets that as a target, though obviously if the car you're following changes or drifts out of the lane, it will use the camera's input as higher priority.

Lane Keeping and Lane Centering are two independent systems that can work together or separately. Lane Keeping uses only the camera, while Lane Centering combines input from the camera and the radar module. If Lane Centering can't pick up the lines, then Lane Keeping won't be able to either, though Lane Keeping will still work if it can only pick up one line, while Lane Centering will not. Lane Keeping works differently depending on how you have it set up. If you have it in "both" mode, it will allow you to go further across the line before if gives you the vibration than if it's in "Alert" mode. But if you have Lane Centering on and are actively steering the vehicle towards the line, then it's already applying a correction torque, even as you cross over the line. That correction torque is probably damping out the vibration that you feel.

My 2014 Fusion does this, nothing new.

Just because it will fit doesn't mean it is safe. Summer tires have a lot more grip than the all-seasons, so when you put on a donut spare you change the handling behavior of the vehicle to a point where it can become dangerous. That's why you don't get a spare with the summer tire package.

Certainly could. Just because they have the same size printed on the side doesn't mean they are actually the same size. Plus the tire properties can be different enough to trick the system. One easy check would be to swap the Michelin onto the other side of the car and see if your problem becomes a left turn problem.