Cerberus

I have had an oil pan leak issue addressed by the stealership that I bought mine from, only to have the leak continue or recur depending on your perspective.. but then i question the skills (and more precisely, the integrity) of all stealerships.. but not all techs. There are some talented techs out there, and some shit heels too. Roll the dice or fix it yourself. last time I changed the oil, I put a socket on the pan bolts and gave them a little additional torque. when i change my oil this weekend, i'll see if it helped

finally got on IG.. just to track down performance specialists like Jim and DTP fab .. summer is coming, time to make it faster

so with the summer driving season fast approaching, with the state my tires are in, I'm trying to decide whether to upgrade the rubber on my summer wheels now or run what's on the until they're gone.. My questions are, can we get an update on tire wear, any bad rubs, and overall impression of the bigger Conti Extreme Contacts?

Filler cap has no milky crap on it. Fairly humid and not too stupid cold here, but it almost always gets up to temp once started

Actually, the emulsion is the little bit you see on the bottom of the catch can, mostly hidden by the light oily fluid on top of it. I wanted to touch a flame to the fluid on top, but the potential of any fire flare up at my job two minutes before punch out seemed ill advised... lol

Negative, coolant level is good, and consistent. It's perfectly normal. The golden light brown stuff is fuel & oil vapor (it gets darker as oil change is closer to due), highly volatile stuff that basically vaporized out of the hot crankcase and was caught by the catch can as it designed to do. The minimal milky sludge is just condensate from water produced by combustion, which is also perfectly normal. It's small comfort, but still good to know there is something catching that garbage instead of it going straight into my intake and coking the intake valves.

drained my catch can. nasty light oily garbage with some milky sludge in the bottom

No But if fluid has been added while the pads were worn, you may end up with overfill spillage at the reservoir. And, just for the sake of saying it (although no one does it) you might consider cracking the bleeder on the caliper and pushing the fluid out instead of back up stream. Any thermal aging that has happened is better removed from the system than forced back into service. Think of it as a small scale flush of the brake Fluid.

Got you As a mechanic, usually a stumble is when you roll into the throttle (either under load or not) and the engine doesn't rev up as expected, but rather stumbles like biden on the stairs to air force one, but I can see how your use makes sense too

Not sure what you mean by stumbling at idle, but when mine was bad, it had a cyclic low idle after fill ups. And the purge valve did fix it

proof of concept received ? If it were my project, I'd go with a 40A inline fuse and a minimum 50A max load relay, just the sake of safety and operational overhead

no actually its not. It would be quite simple to put a simple manually controlled switch in line between a direct battery feed and the trailer that could be turned on and off at will. This also removes the potential of a sticky relay draining the car battery accidentally. And i'd be willing to det there is a remote control relay system out there somewhere that could be switch on and off by a fob, or even a bluetooth connection. There's a million ways to skin a cat so they say (I like cats. no evil intentions here, just a saying)

The right way to do this would be to use a key controlled power source to trigger a 40amp relay to the trailer.

All Batteries suffer some amount of self discharge depending on temperature and type. Self discharge does not include actual loads the vehicle puts on the battery, even while off. Some vehicles have issues with excessive loads at rest due to relays sticking, harness problems, and other variables. if you don't drive a vehicle often enough (very difficult to quantify due to variables) the battery will suffer. I'd say that if your auto start/stop system is not working correctly, you need to drive more or use some type of tender. I used to use a smallish (about 6" x 12") flexible solar panel on the dash with a battery tender brand charge regulator to maintain the battery of a truck I drove infrequently. it worked quite well and required no plug in.

I'm not trying to be argumentative (since i've been known as a bit of a prick) but I looked at your posts and saw several responses on them.. Its not very 'traffic heavy' here lately, that is quite true, but if you search you will find many questions have been asked and answered already. Sorry I am unable to add anything to the questions you asked

I usually try to be helpful. Sorry if I missed your questions. I'll look under your recent posts when I get home

ACDelco (among others possibly) makes a metal impeller version, which i used when i did the job on my 2011 fusion sport. Personally I would say better to err on the side of caution and do the pump, chains guides and tensioners now if not, make sure you keep an eye on the weep hole, directly behind the A/C compressor in my case. Any change in color in immediate proximity to the weep hole means the seal is on its way, and even that may not give you enough warning as I have heard of failures with no weep hole warning to be fair, the laundry list of things that DILLARD is doing is beyond excessive for your specific concern also, don't waste your time trying to rejuvenate the seal on the water pump. It is a bearing failure that causes the failure of the pump seal. I found a youtube video where someone used a water jet to cut multiple pumps down the shaft and sleeve bearings were all galled, no way they were going to continue to work, period.

Just replying to subscribe so I can find this thread later since I can't find the following button atm

I know you're going think I'm a dinosaur for saying this, but I don't do IG.. i guess i know what I have to do lol

we need a more complete list of what was replaced, and any all codes associated with the problem it could be harness failure, bad solder joint inside a module, bad electrical connection to the harness at a module plug..

FWIW, I sent them (DTP Fab) a msg through their site form, asking for a quote for the cold pipe with meth bung, cerakoted, and never heard back from them

Result?

I know the water pump is replaceable with the engine in place for some edges, but admittedly i don't know if this is one of those. but if the pump can be done w/ eng in place, that would almost have to be cheaper than a salvage yard engine, refresh & swap, wouldn't it? and your coworker is pretty damn lucky so far, but that is definitely an exception to the rule situation, and once the oil gets milked up, its a crapshoot whether the bearing surfaces in the engine get damaged or not. my 2011 3.5 seemed like it could have just had a new pump and been back in svc, but since it was an engine out required job, i did the salvage engine, refresh and quick swap deal in that case.

Only you can answer the question of costs vs value for you. Quick searching for 2014 edge sport values shows them worth abt 20k for the ones carvana has listed with around 90k miles. If the car is financed then you really don't have a choice aside from fix it and keep it or fix it and trade/sell it, because the value will be hit hard by the need for the pump etc. Unfortunately, owning it outright doesn't change the options much unless you are willing to say F it and throw away the loss of value by selling it or trading it in as is. The good news is, if the pump job is done well, you should get at least another 80k out of the new water pump.. so that is an important consideration to the equation.. and you really like the car.. I had a similar situation with a 2011 fusion sport with a captive water pump, like yours. It sucks to be backed into a corner with no fun options in front of you. Good luck