Cerberus

The fan set point argument is categorically not true. In stop and go traffic the temperatures may rise to normal operation range (not always) , but at highway speeds, or anything above 30mph steady state, I see a sustained 10-15 degree decrease in coolant temp and cylinder head temp. And I am using the redline light weight shockproof. Thanks for the video clip But I'm not sure if it is really relevant since it is a few years older and a different iteration than the model I own

I don't think the heating that the PTU experiences is from driving load exclusively or even primarily, at least in my case. I think it might just be heat soak from air flow off the rear turbo and exhaust piping. To that point, my screen shot above was taken 2 hours into a 3 hour highway run, which as you correctly point out, is primarily operating as FWD. I suspect that since your PTU cooler is plumbed in the coolant circuit with its own pump, I don't suspect your PTU temp will change much regardless of how you drive it, with what load or in what conditions, assuming the system doesn't have any component failures, like the separate coolant pump. Probably the only potential weak point in the system. In your climate, you could make a strong argument for installing the 170° thermostat which would keep the PTU a bit cooler as well

This is interesting. So even though your ambient temp was over 20 degrees higher than mine, the PTU temp was 20 degrees cooler. I'd be curious to see if that changed with distance/ time driving, but with a cooling system like yours, I don't suspect it would change much. Now I wonder if I could retrofit the PTU cooler parts to mine...

Took a road trip, with 170° thermostat installed, used forscan with bluetooth dongle to see temps after hours of rolling down the highway From the TransferCase Fluid temp, its now obvious why they have a cooler in more recent models.. 232 seems a bit high for my liking considering no real load, no weight added, no additional aerodynamic drag or towing, and only about 90° ambient temp just realized that was not forscan, that was OBDlink https://www.dropbox.com/s/naus0c8c1t2q7k2/2022-06-11 14.08.20.jpg?dl=0

This part sounded a little "Hunger Games".. Enough so that I wanted to finish it with, "May the odds be ever in your favor" lol

so I did the thermostat swap last weekend, with Resiche(?) 170° unit I relocated the coolant header tank and air intake hose between the up-pipe and throttle body, and reached around the mount from both sides. 1/4" drive short sockets, magnetic screw starters for reinstalling the bolts, pretty quick and easy even with my big hands coolant temp now hangs between 177 and 185 (city/rural driving, used to go over 200) and head temp briefly goes as high as 210 (used to hit 230) with mid 80s to 90F ambient temp I have made no changes to fan set points, but I may explore that when the ambient temps get into the mid 90s consistently At highway speeds when aerodynamic cooling comes into full play, coolant temp holds 177-181 and head temp is 190-194ish I reset my adaptations and saw all per cylinder knock counters go to zero, and have, so far, stayed there

hard to say from the sound file, but it does sound like it could be a bearing failure. the good/bad news is, it is in fact a bearing, it will not stay that loud for a long time. If that is a lumpy bearing, it will fail, probably in dramatic fashion. But it could be a failure of the center bearing, pinion bearing.. but you said the cadence of the noise changes independently of the speed of the vehicle? that is GD bizarre. low pressure fuel pump? I don't know. i'm at a loss.

installed the 170° thermostat today. ECT used to hold around 196 while rolling along at speed, now it is around 180-181 (70°F ambient @ 60mph) CHT (Head temperature) is similarly reduced at cruise, but still ramps up significantly (as expected) when the fun pedal is matted. Its not a good time but not a nightmare job either. I Just moved the expansion / degassing tank aside & removed the air hose between the up pipe and the throttle body, and reached around the mount from both sides. and I have big mitts.

Emptied the JLT 3.0 catch can yesterday after 2k miles of install time. About 1 tablespoon of thin black oily garbage that didn't make it to the intake valves. Definitely worth it

Tire pressures set the same? It may sound irrelevant but a softer sidewall (whether by tire design or reduced pressure) causes more rolling resistance which can translate to lower MPG. Also did you correct for ANY difference in circumference in Forscan? (You may have said above, no time to read back right now)

Thanks very much, I appreciate the information!

Hi Jim, Sorry to revive this old thread but i have a question or twelve about the injector sticking problem.. Is this occurring only at WOT or throughout the range and how were you able to discern that was what was going on? And is there any chance that using fuel system cleaners could lead to this problem, by drying out the internal seals? Using Forscan to monitor acceleration per cylinder, see a problem with my 2016 edge's #5 (&6) performance being below average as compared to the rest, confirmed by listening to how it has a definite thrum instead of consistent pull, and I am trying to chase down the problem. I had not heard of Injector sticking being a problem so this peaks my curiosity, and has me wondering about possible solutions.. like a small amount of Marvel Mystery oil (or some other recommended product) in the fuel to lubricate the injectors? Of course the extreme pressure of the fuel rail makes that potentially a bad idea, but maybe not? Since alcohol content in fuel seems to be an issue with drying seals etc, i'm wondering if going to pure gas (readily available here in TN) might minimize my vehicle's problem in your opinion? this link will lead you to a photo directory of forscan graphs that may tell you something I have not seen https://photos.app.goo.gl/CoYm577uioKvVQ2m8 Thank you in advance for any input

I am unfamiliar with the availability or utility of unicorn turds

Swapped on summer wheels/tires (last weekend) Engine oil & filter change (last weekend) Trans fluid drain/fill/drain/refill (last weekend) PTU fluid drain & refill with smurf snot (last weekend) Ran it through the carwash (she cleans up nice) (last weekend) JLT oil catch can install just now ?

Power tripping much? I'll make it easy on you and punch my own ticket Peace out

To be fair, I stated the year make and model of the vehicle I was referring, in the text that he quoted. So yeah, i am right. Was my response a bit over the top? Sure. Did I have a couple beers in me? It's possible. But here's the point, if someone wants come along and question the claims I make, and attempt impune my credibility on two levels, they better be ready to stand and deliver, or be embarrassed.

WRONG sir! Maybe put on your big boy pants before you try to question someone. In the 2011 fusion sport, the entire engine & transmission had to be dropped out of the car in order to remove the 'front cover' and access the timing chains, and remove the pump & replace it. I bought a table lift that went up 48" to facilitate this task. Actually in my case I bought a boneyard motor and refreshed it so i could just straight swap the motor and put it back together since i was working in my buddy's garage.. feast your eyes on my misery https://photos.app.goo.gl/muhxQcfvaHDs9Z4e9 Edit, I just noticed the last line of one of the quoted posts, saying that pissing people off was like my superpower. Somewhat apropos after the shit storm with TheFastestEdge Jim .. which i still feel bad about ..

I understand, but i'm kind of at a loss as to how to deal with that..

personally I would want to drop that engine on the front counter of the place that sold it to you and say refund!

In theory, fans are irrelevant at highway speeds if the vehicle has any aerodynamic flow, but admittedly some do not. Usually if it will not overheat at around-town speeds but does overheat on the highway, the fans are not the problem.

Just for the sake of conversation, I hope you did not take my long winded response to your post as an attack or unduly rude. If so, I apologize. No offense intended. Apparently I'm a bit of a dick. Working on it.

generally speaking, if you overheat at highway speeds, its low on coolant, or the water pump is freewheeling (belt slip or loose impeller), or the radiator is internally obstructed. some cooling systems can trap air if not bled correctly after being low

to me, it looks like the screw in into a seal. I dont think what came out first that broke into pieces was a seal. based on very little information..

This post reminded me to retorque my lugs after having put my winter wheels on 3 weeks ago. They all turned some, probably because I had under torqued them by about 10 foot pounds Ooops..