Cerberus

https://www.car-part.com Online search engine for salvage yards

The turbo mostly only really spins up when the engine is doing work, not just revving. Get into 3rd or 4th gear on a long on ramp and roll into the throttle hard enough to accelerate but not downshift, and as the revs rise and the likelihood of downshift decreases, continue rolling into it. This is where you will normally see peak boost, usually about 18psi unless you are tuned

1. The fact that the dealer said they found no codes but ypu found codes dating back to before your ownership of the vehicle would tell me that is not someplace I'd ever want to business with again Period. 2. The slew of codes and comms issues can possibly be attributed to a poor attempt at diagnostics by a crappy tech or prior owner, so after full documentation of the codes and freeze frame data, I'd personally wipe all codes and probably even reset adaptation tables, plus check battery capacity and terminals for tight clean connection. 3. After 1 & 2 are complete, if codes come back, you now have something to chase down, as old codes are literally yesterday's news. Find out what is current. 4. I might, while the battery is disconnected to inspect the terminals, disco some computers from their electrical connections to inspect for any corrosion or hints of water ingress, and if you were inclined to do that, do it before resetting all codes 5. Good luck

Agreed and that is often how I view the site activity but, when searching for other posts on the subject of transmission problems, it would make sense to have them all in one place. And yes, I can search for transmission or trans or 6F55 or 6F50.. but that feels more like a workaround than a solution. And after failing to find many posts about transmission issues, I wanted to begin a thread of conversation but found myself trying to figure out what specific forum heading to put that thread under.. I suspect that what I need is a consultation with a transmission specialist

I can't find anyplace to start a conversation on transmission issues. I could do it under the AWD only forum but the same transmission is used in FWD vehicles so that seems like it would be an unnecessary segregation. I could go under model year specific, but again, unnecessary segregation where collective collaboration would be better Thoughts?

This is going ro sound douchey.. but what is your safety worth to you? Spend the money on good tires on cheap steel wheels and consider it an investment in your health. Just my opinion Going to 18" wheels will be cheaper in total cost

I hate to say this, but the random symptoms sounds somewhat like a flood car problem..

I appreciate the warning but this is not nitrous to be sprayed into the engine. When using nitrous to fog the intercooler (external spray to suck heat out of it) it will arguably require a little more fuel because of the cold air charge, but the temperature of the air charge in the intercooler will be detected by the charge air cooler temp sensor, and adjusted for by the computer. Back in the day, some performance guys took a brand new bone stock 3000GT VR4 (iirc) and fogged the intercooler with raw nitrous, which resulted in getting the car over 200mph. A friend who has done a lot of crazy performance builds told me about a del sol that he was able to put down over 540whp on pump gas, running a tune for 100 octane fuel because of using nitrous to chill the IC

probably about a 20mm, but not sure. 19mm = 3/4" (effectively) so if 19 is too small and 20mm is too big, you could try 13/16" or 7/8"

intermittent battery disco is not higly likely to be the cause (but not impossible and easy to fix, so definitely fix that) only because the battery is not providing power to the vehicle while it is running, the alternator is providing that power. However, that said, given your description of the battery mounting and electrical connections, I would definitely be suspicious of any electrical connections on the vehicle, especially if there is any evidence of anything that has been touched or wrenched in any way. Whatever your climate is, if you see any likelihood of needing a better battery, I would consider replacing it with the biggest battery you can stuff in there, secure it well, and clean up all electrical connections to it, as well as protect them against corrosion with grease. I like to use No-ox but have used dielectric grease too without problem.. You might want to peek at the alternator electrical connections too while you are poking around, specifically the output heavy gauge wire.

it is more likely that the sensor has failed than the tone ring.. and that is much easier to replace usually

if they can't find any codes, one possible cause is the PCM is losing its 12V+ battery feed that would allow it to remember the codes & freeze frame data. Of course it is also possible that the PCM itself it cooked or has an internal failure, but its better to start with the cheaper tests.. I don't know the power distribution well enough to tell you where to start looking exactly, but i'd be checking grounds and power connections, relays if applicable, even the condition of the main connectors at the PCM for oxidation, water or corrosion. If all that checks out, a harness wiggle test is sometimes useful Then i'd move on to the big ticket item.. the PCM itself

finally got around to changing the rear 3 spark plugs. (2.7 EcoBoost) i did the front three 10 months ago, but they were in very good shape so i was in no hurry to deal with the rears due to the access issue. Interesting observation BTW; the rears (original OEM plugs) came out much dirtier with noticeable carbon on the insulator, than the fronts came out, which i presume is at least partly due to the 170 thermostat. Aaaand now I realize that i installed the one step colder plugs, NGK LTR7BHX 95605.. maybe not ideal. we'll see. Side note, I had a friend give me an old nitrous bottle, 1st step to building an IC fogger.. ?

They are a hybrid pad with semi metallic and ceramic friction compounds, which should be low dist producing... but I have not had them installed long enough to know if they will be dusty or not

thats awesome

Raybestos Element 3 rotors and pads from Rock Auto. (RAYBESTOS 681995FZN & RAYBESTOS EHT1818) It was not absolutely necessary, but I had gotten my rotors up to a dark cherry red glow after a particularly hard run through a local fun road at 4am... ( i have pictures lol) .. and there was some pulsation when coming down from highway speeds, soo... yeah Lugnuts were a kit purchase from a local parts store, I want to say Dorman, gun metal bronze with 4 spline drive locknuts.

probably just a hose slipped off the IC or up pipe

Disregard. failed to read.

oil change, front pads & rotors, all new lug nuts since the OEM lugs were getting hard to get the socket onto and off of.. oh, and the tuner is ordered.. ?

I've recently been doing a fair amount of data acquisition and have found that the boost level produced is fairly inconsistent, and often seems greater at mid to 3/4 throttle, 2nd or third gear, generally peaking around 18psi in these conditions. However, if I go WOT the peak boost seems to drop to around 12-14. Also at lower throttle openings and lower speeds around town, the desired boost value is often 1-2 psi while actual measured boost is zero. And the performance felt in that range reflects the lack of desired boost. Is it possible or likely that the BOVs / diverters are leaking pressure, a loose clamp somewhere, or is this likely to be a tune parameter, or designed function?

One more post on the topic of fans & thermostat, With the 170 t-stat, no fan adjustment, on a 90 degree day, after abt 25 minutes of stop and go traffic commute, this is what I see when I got home

The fan set point argument is categorically not true. In stop and go traffic the temperatures may rise to normal operation range (not always) , but at highway speeds, or anything above 30mph steady state, I see a sustained 10-15 degree decrease in coolant temp and cylinder head temp. And I am using the redline light weight shockproof. Thanks for the video clip But I'm not sure if it is really relevant since it is a few years older and a different iteration than the model I own

I don't think the heating that the PTU experiences is from driving load exclusively or even primarily, at least in my case. I think it might just be heat soak from air flow off the rear turbo and exhaust piping. To that point, my screen shot above was taken 2 hours into a 3 hour highway run, which as you correctly point out, is primarily operating as FWD. I suspect that since your PTU cooler is plumbed in the coolant circuit with its own pump, I don't suspect your PTU temp will change much regardless of how you drive it, with what load or in what conditions, assuming the system doesn't have any component failures, like the separate coolant pump. Probably the only potential weak point in the system. In your climate, you could make a strong argument for installing the 170° thermostat which would keep the PTU a bit cooler as well

This is interesting. So even though your ambient temp was over 20 degrees higher than mine, the PTU temp was 20 degrees cooler. I'd be curious to see if that changed with distance/ time driving, but with a cooling system like yours, I don't suspect it would change much. Now I wonder if I could retrofit the PTU cooler parts to mine...

Took a road trip, with 170° thermostat installed, used forscan with bluetooth dongle to see temps after hours of rolling down the highway From the TransferCase Fluid temp, its now obvious why they have a cooler in more recent models.. 232 seems a bit high for my liking considering no real load, no weight added, no additional aerodynamic drag or towing, and only about 90° ambient temp just realized that was not forscan, that was OBDlink https://www.dropbox.com/s/naus0c8c1t2q7k2/2022-06-11 14.08.20.jpg?dl=0