ls973800

Reminds me of something that was added aftermarket to enable hands free calling or Bluetooth connectivity. Just a WAG.

I thought I had posted this link last week, but if not, try here. It is a national search of salvage yards. You just put in your year, make, model, and the part you want (Radio/CD). This will give you a list of the different radios including the one you want with the navigation. If you don't find what you are looking for, you can send a request for the part and one of the yards may be able to help you. http://car-part.com/

Not at this time, thanks. So far I have only posted them on this forum since I am most active here. I will be checking the DVD's to see what other vehicles are included and posting them on those forums soon.

I'll agree with having the battery checked out and replaced if needed. My F150 acted fine one day, parked and went into the store. When I came out, the gauges were pegged, there was a relay clicking from behind the dash, all kinds of weird things. Lights came on no problem, but the truck would not crank at all. The battery went dead that quickly! Replaced it and no problems.

Scott, after following some of your posts on the 2013, glad to hear you finally got something resolved. I have the medium stone interior in my 2013 Limited and really like the color. Only thing to watch out for is the possible transfer of dye or bluish color if you wear blue jeans. It doesn't happen to many owner's, but enough that I've read a few posts about it. My seats do get the transfer (Levi jeans is what I wear mostly) but I make sure I the clean the seats every few weeks when needed. I also use a leather treatment once in a while. My car is almost two years old and the transfer doesn't happen near as much now as it did in the first several months of ownership. Don't want to be a downer regarding your new Edge, just wanted to share a personal experience I've had.

I know the big update coming from Ford this year is the AppLink upgrade. It's supposed to be upgradable for over 3.4 million cars and trucks. Only problems from what I've read though, is it will not be available for any of the MFT or MLT vehicles, or vehicles older than the 2010 models. http://www.engadget.com/2014/01/03/ford-to-offer-free-sync-applink-update/

Can you post the part numbers you got with the flaps. You don't have the appearance package on your Edge do you (different lower molding I believe than the standard molding)?

Yes, thank you! I even concentrated on the ones shown in his pictures and couldn't come up with the proper name! Oh well, birthday this Monday and getting ICRS syndrome. (I can't remember shi$%)

My 2003 Ford F150 was involved in a recall because the fuel tank straps could rust. If they broke, your gas tank could drop to the ground while driving. I believe only certain owner's living in certain states that used salt, etc on the roads were notified. I moved to Dallas in 2005. I had an oil change done one day at a Ford dealer, and they went ahead and replaced my fuel straps even though my truck had only seen 2 winters in Ohio. Ford really doesn't need to ignore this problem on the Edge. I doubt if they want to end up going before a Congressional committee like GM has to do next week.

Eatinitup, how do you like the Yokohoma Parada Spec X Tires? Miles on them, ride, handling, wear, wet traction, etc?

Well, there is always the option to check with a Ford service department or an independent mechanic if forum users can't figure your problem out over the internet. Here is where I would start looking, the air inlet mode door actuator. Air Inlet Door Model Actuator NOTE It is not required to install the new air inlet door linkage parts included in the air inlet mode door actuator service part kit if only the mode door actuator requires replacement and the linkage parts are not broken or binding. To remove the air inlet mode door actuator and linkage, perform the following: Disconnect the glove compartment damper from the glove compartment. Remove the glove compartment. Remove the 3 air inlet mode door actuator screws. Disconnect the air inlet mode door actuator electrical connector. Remove the air inlet mode door actuator. Manually operate and inspect the air inlet mode door and air inlet mode door linkage for incorrect placement or damage. To remove the air inlet mode door linkage only, perform the following: Remove the air inlet mode door intermediate lever screw. Remove the air inlet mode door intermediate lever. Working through the air inlet duct grille opening, depress the clip and detach the air inlet mode door lever from the air inlet mode door. Working through the air inlet duct grille opening, depress the clip and detach the air inlet mode door lever from the air inlet mode door Click to Enlarge NOTE The air inlet mode door must be fully seated in the correct position during installation. If the air inlet mode door is not fully seated, excessive noise will result when the climate control system is operated. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure Exploded view of the air inlet mode door actuator Click to Enlarge

Looking at the way that wire is taped to the vent pipe, I don't believe that is a factory run wire. It looks like someone added it at some later date. The tape is different and looks newer than the electrical tape the factory uses. Also, I have never seen a wire run over a metal pipe or rubber hose like that from the factory unless it was also in a plastic cable protector (I can't think of what those are called, plastic cover with a slit in them to put the wire inside). Can you tell where the other end of the wire goes? Do you have an aftermarket alarm or anti-theft system?

It is nice to hear about a dealership that met your expectations, or even went beyond them.

Thanks for clarifying everything. I will just leave things the way I have them hooked up now. DRL's on when car is running without having to turn on any parking or headlights, 100% bright with no other lights on, 70% bright when other lights are on, and lose the courtesy lights when the car is opened or unlocked.

OK, I just checked the link you posted, and was lucky to have found this on page 15 (of 17 pages) reply #288. Thanks for pointing out that discussion. I installed my set of the EDGE-2 DRLs this morning. Took about 1.5 hours, not really difficult at all. Only change I made was to hook the white wire to the turn-signal's center wire(yellow w/blue stripe) to allow for %70 power with parking lights on, and to retain the courtesy light functions. They work great! So I have to remove the white wire from the brown/blue headlight harness, and put it on the yellow/blue center wire of the turn signal harness, correct? This will allow the courtesy lights and 70% when lights (parking, headlights, etc)are on when running, and 100% when no lights are on. Kind of hard to keep up with all of the different wire configurations with that many posts. I just wanted the DRL function, liked the extra turn signal feature, but didn't know about the courtesy light loss if the wires were run per the instructions that came with the kit. Perhaps Dan should include some of these different functions with his instructional sheet, or even on his video. I watched that and even though it was for a different box which is nothing like the one included now (different way to mount on the old one) it did provide some good guidance. EDIT- after thinking about this, I don't think the lights will work as a DRL unless I have the parking lights on. I don't see how they would turn on at all if I move the white wire to retain the courtesy light but don't have any lights turned on. I will not have any DRL's UNLESS I have the headlights or parking lights on, correct? I will try and go through those 17 pages of posts on the other link to get caught up on the different wire configurations and what they will and will not do.

One additional note. I thought that when I had the factory lights in, they would come on when I unlocked the car or opened the door with the engine off. Now all the other lights still come on (puddle lights, yellow turn signal/parking lights, etc) but the new DRL lights don't come on like I think the factory lights did.

Just finished my installation of the DayTimeBright running lights that have the turn signals included in them. The install was pretty much straight forward but there are several things to watch out for. As mentioned in an earlier post, the lenses are incorrectly marked. The one for the driver's side (LH) is marked RH. The passenger side (RH) is marked LH. You really can't install them incorrectly because they only fit one way. The new connections on the bottom of the running lights are 180 degrees different from the factory lenses. The factory harness has to be turned over in order to lock into the new lenses. No big deal once I tried getting it to click, but then found the problem. The harness is just put in to keep it out of the way and dry, since the bottom connections on the new DRL are dummy connectors. In addition to the yellow wire for the passenger side needing to be about 1 foot longer, I think the other yellow wire and white wire could use about 1 more foot also. I was able to strip the electrical tape off the wire harness that I had to tap into, and therefore was able to make the connection several inches back allowing just enough slack to mount the box where I wanted it. The power pick up that goes under the fuse box lid allows use in one of three slots, 90, 92, or 93. I had a fuse in all three locations so put it into 92. The height of the pick up does require you to push down hard in order to seat the fuse cover back on. I also had to use a pair of pliers to push the fuse into the pick up because it was such a tight fit. No way would it go in just pushing by hand. I also cut a piece out of the upper lid so the wire wasn't being crushed with the cover on. I mounted the box on top of the fuse cover, allowing a bit of slack in the wires so the cover could still be opened with no problem. I ran the wires/cable over to the passenger side by putting it behind the fiber insulation cover on the firewall. I didn't see that that cover ran all the way to the passenger side from the drivers side. Instead, I put the cable on top of some other electrical components on the passenger side and then ran it down to the light. This is where I could have used the extra foot of wire. I could have put all the wire between the fender and the power steering reservoir instead of between the reservoir and the engine. I may go back at a later date and add some wire in order to do that. The wire for the turn signal on the LH (drivers side) that has to be tapped into is a blue/green wire. All I could find was a yellow/green, a black/green, and a light turquoise wire. I even had my wife look and she saw the same thing. I was about ready to tap into the black/green wire thinking maybe it was a royal blue instead, but couldn't do it without being 100% sure it was the correct wire. I put a piece of white paper under the turquoise wire, and VERY faintly could see a hint of green running through it! This is the wire I taped into and everything is working correctly. All wires and cables were tie wrapped to prevent movement or chapping.

I also belong to some F150 forums, so I hope I'm not confusing what I have read. Some owner's have found the wires inside the mirror that didn't come with factory puddle lamps. You can easily remove your plug on the bottom of the mirror and see if there are any wires there. If you need guidance on how to remove the plug, go to DaytimeBrightLites.com and look at the install pictures or video there. At the top far right of the web site is a click-able Info/Install link.

Welcome! Just for the record however, your 3.7 is not a turbo or Ecoboost engine. I believe it puts out around 305 HP versus the 3.5 engine that puts out about 285 HP. The 2.0 engine is the only Ecoboost engine in the Edge line up now. Your Edge does share the same engine with the Lincoln MKX, however, which is the only engine it can come with.

Don't overlook the fact that he was talking about the 22" tires which come on the Sport. You are trying to compare his with your 20" tires. Right now, Tire Rack is showing the Pirellis OEM in 22" size for $264.00 each, before tax, shipping, mounting, balancing, road hazard, etc. A set of four before all the needed extras is $1056.00, with a $60.00 rebate, so just the tires are $996.00 I can see where he could be looking at close to $300.00 per tire when all is said and done.

I believe the A4 card will only work if you have version 3.6.2 or the previous update. Is your SYNC running the latest update? Perhaps your unit is still set up for the A3 card.

I just checked the Rosen website, and no where does it say they are the factory supplier for Ford. Here is a link which has the companies they say they were the FIRST OEM validated and approved mobile video supplier to. Don't know if they still supply to them http://www.rosenelectronics.com/rosen-history.htm copied from that link Rosen was the First OEM validated and approved mobile video supplier to the following car companies/divisions: Cadillac Chevrolet GMC Land Rover Mazda Mercedes Benz Oldsmobile Pontiac Toyota

Sorry but I just found this post today. I really hate the way the forum is set up. You may have posted this and if someone else posted in the same topic a minute later, your post would get taken off the first page. The only way it could then be seen is if 1) someone made a reply to your post and it went back to the main page 2) a user opens all of the subject topics and checks each post listing, or 3) a user clicks the View New Content button at the top of the page. Unfortunately, when I click that button I always get a No New Content display, even if there is new content. It used to work, but not for the last month or two for me now. Anyhow, sorry to hear about your problem. It's too late now, but there were things you could and should have done before writing the check and taking delivery. No need to rehash that now. Does your buyer's agreement say something to the effect that the dealer would install Ford or factory DVD players? Or does it just say they would install DVD players? If it says Ford, I think you can push the issue and get a refund or get the Invision units. I am sure they are still available even if they had been bought out. I don't know, but I doubt if Rosen is now the factory supplier for Ford. Rosen has a poor reputation on another forum I belong to regarding their navigation/radio/entertainment systems. I don't know anything about their DVD systems. If a face to face meeting with the owner of the dealership or upper management doesn't get the results you want, I would seriously consider a small claims court case. There is no way you can stop payment on the check, it doesn't provide the same protection as a credit card.

Will, maybe you could check with one of the national tire chains and see what they have to say. I know some owner's on other forums have had a tire shop pro-rate their factory tires because the tire shop is also an authorized dealer of that brand of tire. Tire shops main source of income is of course tire sales, so they may be more willing to work with you.