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Power Steering Leak

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my wife says she has a swishing noise when turning, and she has fluid near the pedal. is this bad steering pump?

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That is a blocked AC evaporator drain, and likely a whole lot of water too. Can kill the blower motor.

 

I would peel back the carpet on the driver side near the gas pedal to expose the joint in the drain. Have a small bucket or pan handy, and lay down some rags so nothing gets on the carpet. PInch off the upper tube with a clip of some sort, then disconnect from the joint. Blow compressed air (air duster used for computers might work here) into the lower tube so the drain is clear. Then aim the upper hose into the bucket/pan and release the clip. That should do the trick of draining it.

 

Ideally you will also use foaming coil cleaner to clean out the evaporator through the upper part of the drain hose. There are products that come with a tube you can snake up the upper tube to clean the evaporator.

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I am having a similar issue. I have a 2008 Ford Edge SEL. I am a female so I have no idea about cars but here's my story and I think I am getting ripped off at my local ford dealership. I am hoping that someone can shed some light on how the system works.

 

April 2015- I had a leak that seemed like transmission fluid. I took it into the dealership and they told me that I needed an oil cooler replaced. OK...I had that replaced.

 

August 2016 (2 months ago and 8,400 miles since the oil cooler replacement) - I noticed a small leak with the same kind of fluid under my car and took it into the dealership. I also knew that it was time for front brakes.The told me that my radiator was leaking and was bad so it needed to be replaced. I had the front brakes and the radiator replaced. I drove the car for 1 month (118 miles until September 2016) and noticed a hissing sound when I hit the brakes. I thought maybe since the brakes were new, they needed a wear in period.

 

September 2016 The hissing sound was getting worse so I decided to research it and found that the most common problem was a bad brake booster and it is a common problem on Ford Edge's. (Note: there was no hissing sound before I had the rear brakes done.) I took it into the dealership and of course it was a bad brake booster. I had that replaced. Upon driving home from the dealership, I noticed that my tachometer was revving up and it felt like a "transmission slip". I had a friend of mine drive it and he confirmed that something was wrong. (Note: The car was not doing this until I had the brake booster replaced.) I also had my neighbor who works at the dealership as a salesman take the car into the dealership the next morning to "pull some strings". He reported back that they had to disconnect the battery and that they did a "power test" and there was nothing wrong with my transmission. The car had to "reset" since they disconnected the battery and "relearn" my driving habits. He said give it a week or two and then if you still have problems let me know. Admittedly, the "transmission slip" got alot better.

 

October 18, 2016 (yesterday and probably 150 miles after the September service) I dropped my nephew off at work and when I came home, I noticed spots and a massive spot of the very same fluid in my driveway. I popped the hood and there was no power steering fluid in the reservoir. I had it towed to the same dealership thinking that they may find something that they missed or should have replaced on my previous visits. They called an hour ago to inform me that my power steering hoses broke apart, it will be a $850.00 bill and I should replace all of them with the "assembly kit".

 

I find it very funny that I take my car in for one issue and it comes back with another very expensive repair. Can anyone shed any light on what could possibly be going on with the power steering system/oil cooler? Are all three repairs coincidental or could my dealership have caused the problems?

 

 

From what I understand you may want to learn the basic colors of the fluid to ID what it could be from. Here is a basic color guide to help you next time you find a leak and feel like they are giving you the run a round.

 

auto-fluid-color-chart.jpg

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Sorry to bother....Was just told that I need a power steering line and I have a power steering leak. It will cost me $350 cash to fix. ($150 for the part/$200 for the labor) Is this a good price? Were there any recalls on this by chance? Thanks so much 

Edited by dsullivan2181

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On 9/19/2019 at 9:08 PM, dsullivan2181 said:

Sorry to bother....Was just told that I need a power steering line and I have a power steering leak. It will cost me $350 cash to fix. ($150 for the part/$200 for the labor) Is this a good price? Were there any recalls on this by chance? Thanks so much 

Best to check the NHTSA site for recalls.

 

what year is your edge?

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I don't think there is a recall on this.  I assume it's a 2007 by your profile.  You can go to the NHTSA website and put your VIN in to check for recalls.

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On 9/19/2019 at 6:08 PM, dsullivan2181 said:

Was just told that I need a power steering line and I have a power steering leak. It will cost me $350 cash to fix.


That doesn't sound unusual for a 12 year old car (there certainly wouldn't be a recall).  Repair pricing varies 'a lot' depending where you live and the Northeast is probably among the priciest places in all the land.  The only way around the labor charge is to do it yourself, maybe find a friend or neighbor willing to help.

 

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Has anyone used Nicopp line /Brake line to fix the return hose that leaks? The original has a steel line that is shaped then goes into a molded hose. I was wondering if I would run into issues just making it out of the metal line. Much cheaper($13) then the $80 for the dealer part.

 

Does anyone know if the line is 3/8 or 3/16?

Edited by ace573

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On 12/7/2019 at 9:07 PM, ace573 said:

Has anyone used Nicopp line /Brake line to fix the return hose that leaks? The original has a steel line that is shaped then goes into a molded hose. I was wondering if I would run into issues just making it out of the metal line. Much cheaper($13) then the $80 for the dealer part.

 

Does anyone know if the line is 3/8 or 3/16?

 

I would not recommend that.  The rubber is there to account for the relative movement between the pump and the rack.  The pump is mounted to the engine, the rack is mounted to the subframe, so a rigid metal line will fatigue and crack.

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On 6/26/2015 at 10:31 PM, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

 

 

The part numbers for this return line are;

Original on car;  7t433a563am

Replacement ;  7T4Z3A713A

 

This is the power steering return line. It goes under the car by the oil pan towards the front of the car. As seen in the pictures, it has a heat wrap on it as it passes by down pipe.

 

Has anyone managed to replace this line themselves? I can't see how it's possible to reach the rubber hose clamp at the back by the rack. 

Edited by ace573

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