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Power Steering Leak


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That is a blocked AC evaporator drain, and likely a whole lot of water too. Can kill the blower motor.

 

I would peel back the carpet on the driver side near the gas pedal to expose the joint in the drain. Have a small bucket or pan handy, and lay down some rags so nothing gets on the carpet. PInch off the upper tube with a clip of some sort, then disconnect from the joint. Blow compressed air (air duster used for computers might work here) into the lower tube so the drain is clear. Then aim the upper hose into the bucket/pan and release the clip. That should do the trick of draining it.

 

Ideally you will also use foaming coil cleaner to clean out the evaporator through the upper part of the drain hose. There are products that come with a tube you can snake up the upper tube to clean the evaporator.

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  • 4 months later...

I am having a similar issue. I have a 2008 Ford Edge SEL. I am a female so I have no idea about cars but here's my story and I think I am getting ripped off at my local ford dealership. I am hoping that someone can shed some light on how the system works.

 

April 2015- I had a leak that seemed like transmission fluid. I took it into the dealership and they told me that I needed an oil cooler replaced. OK...I had that replaced.

 

August 2016 (2 months ago and 8,400 miles since the oil cooler replacement) - I noticed a small leak with the same kind of fluid under my car and took it into the dealership. I also knew that it was time for front brakes.The told me that my radiator was leaking and was bad so it needed to be replaced. I had the front brakes and the radiator replaced. I drove the car for 1 month (118 miles until September 2016) and noticed a hissing sound when I hit the brakes. I thought maybe since the brakes were new, they needed a wear in period.

 

September 2016 The hissing sound was getting worse so I decided to research it and found that the most common problem was a bad brake booster and it is a common problem on Ford Edge's. (Note: there was no hissing sound before I had the rear brakes done.) I took it into the dealership and of course it was a bad brake booster. I had that replaced. Upon driving home from the dealership, I noticed that my tachometer was revving up and it felt like a "transmission slip". I had a friend of mine drive it and he confirmed that something was wrong. (Note: The car was not doing this until I had the brake booster replaced.) I also had my neighbor who works at the dealership as a salesman take the car into the dealership the next morning to "pull some strings". He reported back that they had to disconnect the battery and that they did a "power test" and there was nothing wrong with my transmission. The car had to "reset" since they disconnected the battery and "relearn" my driving habits. He said give it a week or two and then if you still have problems let me know. Admittedly, the "transmission slip" got alot better.

 

October 18, 2016 (yesterday and probably 150 miles after the September service) I dropped my nephew off at work and when I came home, I noticed spots and a massive spot of the very same fluid in my driveway. I popped the hood and there was no power steering fluid in the reservoir. I had it towed to the same dealership thinking that they may find something that they missed or should have replaced on my previous visits. They called an hour ago to inform me that my power steering hoses broke apart, it will be a $850.00 bill and I should replace all of them with the "assembly kit".

 

I find it very funny that I take my car in for one issue and it comes back with another very expensive repair. Can anyone shed any light on what could possibly be going on with the power steering system/oil cooler? Are all three repairs coincidental or could my dealership have caused the problems?

 

 

From what I understand you may want to learn the basic colors of the fluid to ID what it could be from. Here is a basic color guide to help you next time you find a leak and feel like they are giving you the run a round.

 

auto-fluid-color-chart.jpg

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  • 2 years later...
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On 9/19/2019 at 9:08 PM, dsullivan2181 said:

Sorry to bother....Was just told that I need a power steering line and I have a power steering leak. It will cost me $350 cash to fix. ($150 for the part/$200 for the labor) Is this a good price? Were there any recalls on this by chance? Thanks so much 

Best to check the NHTSA site for recalls.

 

what year is your edge?

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On 9/19/2019 at 6:08 PM, dsullivan2181 said:

Was just told that I need a power steering line and I have a power steering leak. It will cost me $350 cash to fix.


That doesn't sound unusual for a 12 year old car (there certainly wouldn't be a recall).  Repair pricing varies 'a lot' depending where you live and the Northeast is probably among the priciest places in all the land.  The only way around the labor charge is to do it yourself, maybe find a friend or neighbor willing to help.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Has anyone used Nicopp line /Brake line to fix the return hose that leaks? The original has a steel line that is shaped then goes into a molded hose. I was wondering if I would run into issues just making it out of the metal line. Much cheaper($13) then the $80 for the dealer part.

 

Does anyone know if the line is 3/8 or 3/16?

Edited by ace573
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On 12/7/2019 at 9:07 PM, ace573 said:

Has anyone used Nicopp line /Brake line to fix the return hose that leaks? The original has a steel line that is shaped then goes into a molded hose. I was wondering if I would run into issues just making it out of the metal line. Much cheaper($13) then the $80 for the dealer part.

 

Does anyone know if the line is 3/8 or 3/16?

 

I would not recommend that.  The rubber is there to account for the relative movement between the pump and the rack.  The pump is mounted to the engine, the rack is mounted to the subframe, so a rigid metal line will fatigue and crack.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/26/2015 at 10:31 PM, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

 

 

The part numbers for this return line are;

Original on car;  7t433a563am

Replacement ;  7T4Z3A713A

 

This is the power steering return line. It goes under the car by the oil pan towards the front of the car. As seen in the pictures, it has a heat wrap on it as it passes by down pipe.

 

Has anyone managed to replace this line themselves? I can't see how it's possible to reach the rubber hose clamp at the back by the rack. 

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  • 1 year later...
23 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

works fine for me.  you have to download it, it will not open in a browser.

2010 Edge Power Steering Pump to Steering Gear Pressure Line.pdf

 

incredibly now it worked, I tried all sorts of ways, maybe it's about my software...As always thank you for your professional advice..., I have studied the guide, try to follow this rule if there is such an opportunity,... and I am concerned about the ATF fluid filling stage:
this is done in the manual with a special vacuum tool. This is a problem for me, I do not have such an instrument! I hope when replacing the high-pressure line  8T4Z3A719A , which I plan to change, I will simply be able to add ATF liquid and rotate the steering wheel from stop to stop in different directions and this will be enough?

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14 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

следите за видео MACT по промывке жидкости гидроусилителя руля. Вы используете блокировку рулевого колеса, чтобы заблокировать, чтобы удалить воздух из системы.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJb7karK2nhyA7G1BW6xESg/videos

 

Thank you. You mean this video  In this video, when replacing liquid, the wheel spins from edge to edge, from stop to stop..., as I said, there is a change of liquid in parts...
Did you mean that video?

 

 

 

 

 

                      ?

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Wanted to add my experience, sorry if an old thread but Google brought me here... my problem was $1.19 o ring at the pump, on the pressure line.  

 

https://youtu.be/POx8ug_gHa0

 

Seen here is the actual leak that srarted leaking and within 3 days fluid was dripping as seen in the video. Was quoted $500 like others for the new line... which I ordered and it came without the o-ring ? go figure.

 

 

20210626_150922.jpg

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On 6/22/2021 at 12:18 PM, EDST777 said:

and I am concerned about the ATF fluid filling stage:

this is done in the manual with a special vacuum tool. This is a problem for me, I do not have such an instrument! 

 

You may not consider this as helping,but there's always a degree of special tools and specialized knowledge needed for repairs on modern cars, and, anything related to steering or braking is something you may wish to use a professional to repair.

 

You might consider that Ford offers a credit card to put your service on credit. One advantage is that anything over $150 and you get 6 months no interest (opm). With larger amounts you get 12 months. $300/6=$50 month. Just saying ...

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