I may have found the fix in the F150 forum, where they have seen simular problems.   The cause of the problem is most likely a failing Transmission Range Sensor.   When your Edge reaches operating temperature, heat expansion causes an electrical open circuit or glitch inside the sensor. The TRS completely loses track of what gear the car is in, which triggers all three of your symptoms simultaneously.   The symptoms may feel like they are separate issues, but they are all tied to this particular sensor.   The PCM uses the signal from  the TRS to know which gear is selected. Because the PCM is getting blank or corrupted data from the TRS, it cannot output a gear position (P, R, N, D, S) to the digital instrument cluster.   Also, when the TRS signal drops out while you're driving, the PCM gets confused and drops hydraulic pressure wgich causes the Transmission to slip out of gear. If the TRS starts working again, it generates a signal the the PCM and the PCM will attempt to re-engage the transmission. This will cause  lurching).   The reason the rear camera activates is when the TRS is corrupted, its outputting a false reverse gear signal, which causes the BCM to believe that the transmission is in reverse;  and turn on the backup camera display.   The reason the dealer didn't find any codes is probably due to, when the 6F50/6F55 TRS faults, is usually doesn't set a "permanent" code, such as a  P0705 or similar. The code it dies set, is reset when you cycle the key. By the time you drive it to the dealer and they scan it, the system doesn't retain a code.   Since the dealer cannot reproduce it, you need to alert them to this possibility and tell them that you suspect an intermittent internal Transmission Range Sensor / Leadframe fault that occurs only at operating temperature.   The technician will need to drive the car with a factory scan tool hooked up, specifically monitoring the "TR_D" (Transmission Range Desired) and "TR_A" (Transmission Range Actual) PIDs. They'll watch for the signal to drop or turn to eith Fault or Unknown when the vehicle gets hot. (Make certain when you take it in you have a full tank of gas as it may have to be driven many miles before the test begins. Or before the module faults.)   You can also record a video the next time this happens. Showing this video to the  service manager bypasses the "cannot reproduce" problem.   .  

Did you start at the OBD-II port and follow the harness back? 

My guess is the whirring sound you are hearing is probably  coming from the car's ABS pump.   When your car sits for a while,  the hydraulic pressure inside the ABS system slowly bleeds down. When you get in and press the brake pedal, (even if the car is not runnung), this triggers the ABS control module to wake up, run a self-test and prime the system.   The 5-second whirring you hear is the internal electric pump motor building hydraulic pressure. Taking your foot off the pedal cuts the electrical circuit, stopping the pump.

Hi. 2008 limited fwd 132,000 miles.   I started to hear a whirring pump sound from the back passenger side of my vehicle. Never noticed until a few months ago.  It happens if the car has sat for a couple of days.  If I get in and touch the brake pedal without starting the car it begins.  If I keep foot on pedal it continues for around 5 seconds.  If I take my foot off pedal it stops.  I replaced the fuel pump but the noise continues.  No symptoms but a mystery.  Anyone have any idea? Thanks!

Is there any chance it could be part of the fuse block on the 21?  If so, it is tucked up to the left side of the dashboard. Also, this black plug is not the same size as the one in the kit.      

Something is missing according to what you are describing.     

I've read that some owners have fixed the torque converter shudder problem by adding an anti-shudder fluid conditioner (such as Lubegard Shudder Fixx) at a fluid change.   Also need to change your fluid at 25k mime intervals.      .

I don't know what year you have, but on the 2009 Edge, front wheel drive Edges use 11.65-inch front rotors and AWD Edges use the 12.60-inch front rotors. (The 12.6" rotors will NOT fit on the front wheel only version.)   Rear Rotors are 11.89 inch whether its AWD or FWD.   If you're looking to upgrade braking (and not get ridiculous about it) consider switching to semi-metallic pads (such as NAPA Ultra Premium Semi-Metallic or Hawk Performance.) These will definitely upgrade braking performance by providing max cold bite, superior friction at high temperatures, no fade,  but have several bad cons, such as creating large amounts of dark metallic dust, they wear down your brake rotors faster  and sometimes cause queaking when braking.    A better choice would be putting on carbon-infused ceramic pads; such as the is the PowerStop Z36 Truck & Tow or PowerStop Z23 Evolution series. Almost as good stopping power, but less dust and no squeeking.    Lastly, but still an upgrade, consider a premium ceramic pad (such as Duralast Gold Ceramic or Akebono ProACT.) The main advantage is they are better at braking than OEM, much less duty (and its light colored) and they are quiet. But they will fade more when towing or hard braking. (I'm running the Motorcraft premium ceramic pads on my 2009 Lincoln MKX, and find them to be excellent.)    .

Well, that's nice.  But again, Why do you think you need this " upgrade " and what do you hope to accomplish?   Spend your money & time anyway you want but I'm curious to know why ?

Fusion forum had this post on it, this is just one person that said they did it successfully. Another person claimed they swapped them on their edge and it worked.   https://www.fusionsportforums.com/threads/confirmed-volvo-brembo-calipers-that-fit-the-sport.21151/