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I bought this car in July and like a lot about it. There's other things I don't like so much, but have been addressing and improving these things over time. One of the worst design features of this car is the absolute anemic rear lighting. With the rear hatch lights not functional in this 2020 SEL trim model, and the cost to upgrade to Titanium or ST hatch lights, I knew there had to be a better solution. I needed more "rear facing" lights mostly for safety reasons, as opposed to "side lighting", which is mostly what the current tail lights give me. Came across Zeus 3D Printing in Clearwater, Florida owned by Emil Katzarski quite accidentally during an extensive Google search: https://zeus3d.net/?srsltid=AfmBOorO0O2DjTbDAtMV25AiJb1mms3rWaBZ3b_Lf2Hg2sQetAp7yW8u After several phone conversations and e-mails, I pulled the trigger on a pair of his "ST Rear Reflector Replacements": https://zeus3d.net/products/2019-ford-edge-rear-reflector-replacement Ordered them on 10/4/2024 and received them today on 11/7/2024. They're custom made, not sitting on a shelf, and I suppose the recent hurricane didn't help. I ordered "custom color with LED strips" which got me the matt black version. Cost was $60 for the set of two, and there's a discount code for free shipping. Here's a pictorial of how I did the installation, and why I did it the way I did. First side took me about an hour or an hour and a half, as there was a learning curve. Second side took all of maybe 15 minutes. First, tail lights need to be removed. There's a little square shaped plastic plug which is (gently) and easily pried off with a small flat head screwdriver. Under that is a T25 torx head screw that needs to be removed. I put some painter's tape inside that recess prior to removing that screw, so if I dropped it, it wouldn't disappear into the abyss. Then I followed a YouTube video (there are several) to slide the tail light rearward and remove it. There are simply pins in the housing that go into recessed holes in the body. Only thing is I tried masking tape like the guy in the video did, and it immediately ripped. Duct tape worked much better. Once the light has been removed from the body, just unplug the connector coming out of the light from the other connector fixed to the body. Set the light aside. Next I had to remove the OEM reflector. Its got 2 plastic pins and 2 "springy" plastic clips. Each pin is supposed to have a metal push nut on it, but mine only had the one push nut on the top pin. Either it fell off many years ago, or was never installed. Either way, here's a photo of what's supposed to be there: Here's what the push nut looks like: Even though I know it was pushed on, I used a 10mm deep socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet with an extension to unscrew it. Used the same method to reinstall it although you might want to try actually pushing it back on to avoid the possibility of breaking one of the new pins. Thankfully I broke nothing today (for a change)! Here's a comparison of the OEM reflector and the new LED light (more later): For the installation of the new lights I added a bit of extra 3M double sided tape just for insurance, and wiped down the recess that it fits into with rubbing alcohol first: Now.....how do you get to said OEM reflector? Well I'll tell you it's MUCH easier removing the rear wheels first. Gives you much easier access to what you'll need to get at. Also, I removed all the bolts holding in the rear wheel well/fender liners. I think there were like 6 or 7 of those (7/32") around the perimeter of the liner, and two 10mm cap nuts (one towards the front of the well, and one straight ahead over the brake rotor. I did not remove the liner......just took all the fasteners off so I could bend the liner out of my way without creasing or breaking it. However that only allows you to access the lower part of the OEM reflector. To access the upper part (in my case to access the push nut), I partially removed the top of the quarter panel where its simply held in with 4 tabs under the tail light assembly, and then the part that goes around the wheel wheel (I think there were 4 metal clips that just popped out there). I did the top first (pretty gently) then slid my fingers towards the front, and the remaining clips around the wheel well popped easily out. I expected cheap plastic that was bound to break, but they're all pretty robust. I wouldn't yank on them, but easy prying with fingertip pressure was more than enough. Here's a few pics: Inner wheel well..... Inner wheel well after fastener removal..... Top quarter panel tabs under tail light.... Quarter panel wheel well tabs...... Views of OEM reflector from inside Used one hand to gently pull the quarter panel away from the body and the other to remove the push nut, and squeeze the 2 plastic retainer ends together. Then the reflector simply pushes out. When installing the replacement, you'll need to feed the 2 wires from the LED strip up towards the OEM tail light plug. DO NOT make the mistakes I did..... DO NOT try to feed the wires through EITHER of these holes: If you do this, there's not enough room for the new light to lay flat in the recess. On one side I drilled a tiny hole UNDER the bottom square one, and fed the wires through there. On the other side (for some reason) there was enough space to feed them in without drilling. Can't see the hole I drilled anyway, so I'm over it. Also, clip the connectors off the ends of the new light. You don't need them, and they're too large to fit through a small hole (if indeed you choose to drill): Here's a few pics of that process with inside and outside views: Also, the LED strip slides into the bottom of the new 3D printed housing. DON'T FORGET to insert the LED strip into that B-E-F-O-R-E pressing the fixture into the body. Double-sided tape is a bear to remove if you forget. At this stage, assuming you've fed the new wires up towards where you need them, you can reinstall the fender liner. Electrical-wise. I used a test light on the harness that remained in the body to check for grounds and hots. There's 6 wires coming out of the light fixture, but only 5 pins in the onboard socket. The delivery came with a bunch of plastic snap splices, but I prefer Posi-Taps. The 20-22g ones worked fine. I bought them on Amazon but you can buy them direct or shop around. You only need four. Two for the grounds and two for the hots. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3815XSG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 In the harness plug, there's 3 pins on one side, and 2 on the other (with a blank space next to them). The pin closest to the empty space matched up with one of the black ground wires coming out of the tail light housing harness. The pin next to that matched up with a solid green wire coming out of the tail light housing harness. Here's how and where I tapped into them: Socket that stays in the car with 2 pins on bottom, and 3 on top.... Posi-Taps: (22g)...... Once the wires are tapped, good idea to plug the tail light back in, turn on your parking lights or headlights and make sure everything is working. If so, slide the headlight pins back into the holes, replace the T25 screw (shove something in the hole in case you drop it), push the plastic trim piece back over the hole, and you're all done. Here's how they look unlit (they are available in most any custom color you want): Here's how horrible my car's rear lighting was before: And here's the after: I gotta say, it was worth the wait, worth the money and worth the time I spent today. Oh yeah, no bumper removal was required. No body parts were actually removed at all. Just loosened and pushed out of the way. All in all, maybe 2 to 2-1/2 hours. Basic hand tools and a little patience went a long way. I highly recommend this relatively easy, inexpensive upgrade if you have the same feelings I did. Beats the heck out of trying to find reasonably priced used Titanium or ST lights, or the European fog light thing, then trying to figure out how to get them to work. I tried to summarize this as best I could. Feel free to ask any additional questions if you think I missed something......... P.S. These serve as "running" lights and are on when either the parking lights or headlights are turned on. They are not spliced into, nor function as turn signals or brake lights. If you choose you can figure out which wire feeds the brake lights or turn signals and tap into either of those lines instead, but these replacements are SINGLE feature lights.

Finally finished installing ambient lighting in my 2021 Edge. The cup holders are OEM and everything else is aftermarket. The cup holders are only ice blue, and they are controlled by the SYNC screen. In each door, I installed a light in the door handle, door storage, and an LED strip along the door trim. I also installed 4 LED lights under the seats to light up the footwell areas. I also installed an LED strip above the glove box. All of the aftermarket lights are controlled by a hidden physical switch or with Bluetooth from my phone. I was able to get the cup holders for free by using Fordpass Points, and the aftermarket lights were only $34 USD (including shipping) for everything. Overall I am happy with the new ambiance.

I just replaced the PDU fluid in my 2020 Edge and wanted to detail my experience. I bought it new (Titanium with the Elite Package) and am trying to maximize its life by replacing all the fluids I can regularly. I had the PTU fluid replaced at a dealership when I went for a warranty issue with the touchscreen at 30000 mi. I bought the M/C fluid and decided to have Ford replace it, I paid 45 bucks for the fluid and Ford charged 130 for the change. For the RDU @ 36000 mi, I decided to replace the fluid. I didn't jack up the car, I just crawled under and kept it level. To remove the filler plug on the rear diff, I had to buy a slim "3/8" "breaker bar" from AMZ for ten bucks because there was very little clearance between a rear cross member and the fill plug. With this small wrench, I could remove the filler plug using a small pipe for leverage with no problem. The drain was easily accessible with a 3/8" rachet. The drain plug had a good amount of debris on the magnet and the fluid was very dark but I guess this is normal for break-in as my Subaru Forester had the RDU fluid in a similar condition at the same mileage when I changed it. I used Permatex high temp on the plugs and pumped the new fluid from the oil bottle using a screw-on pump from AMZ that worked great. I used about 3/4 of a Qt. which makes sense because the capacity is 28 oz +/- 1oz. I filled it until it started draining from the fill plug. Then I torqued the drain plug to 20 ft-lbs and used Permatex high temp on threads. Hope this helps - Peace.

SSM 52729 - 2022-2024 Ford Edge ST - AWD - 2.7L - Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) - Cruise Control Deactivates With Illuminated ABS Light And Various Brake And Driver-Assist Warning Indicators, DTCs U3000:49 Stored In The ABS And U0415 In The PSCM Some 2022-2024 Ford Edge ST vehicles equipped with all wheel drive (AWD), a 2.7L engine, and ACC may exhibit cruise control deactivating with an illuminated anti-lock brake system (ABS) warning light flashing and various brake and driver-assist warning indicators. Diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) U3000:49 may be stored in the ABS module with U0415 in the power steering control module (PSCM). This may be due to the software in the ABS module. To correct this condition, reprogram the ABS module using the latest level of the Ford Diagnosis and Repair System (FDRS) tool. Refer to the Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 206-09 Anti-Lock Brake System. For claiming use the causal part number 2C219 and applicable labor operations in Section 2 of the Service Labor Time Standards (SLTS) Manual.

alright, so its lane changing, never had awd so i kept looking at awd symptoms and solutions, i found it turned it off will drive tomorrow to see what happens technology is killing/saving me if you ever need help with a 73-79 f100 let me know, simplicity is awesome thanks for the help could not have done it without your insight

Not lot of detailed info on this; only a handful of threads here. The procedure was pretty simple but has gotchas and other things I didn't really care for. For example the torque on the PTU fill plug, you'll never get 33 ft/lbs on that. I stopped turning before I got to 28 ft/lb and noticed the plug was deeper than when I first took it out and stopped. There's also no way, as mentioned in another thread here, that you can completely remove the PTU cooler without removing the crossmember there. You can however, pull the cooler out far enough to drain the fluid. Make sure not to screw up the o-ring on the cooler though, or you will be dropping the crossmember. Those of you with just a plug here and no cooler don't have to worry about this as your plug comes right out. Here's the fill plug and PTU cooler with the stud/nut showing. When I opened the fill plug not even a dribble of fluid came out. I had to use a combo of 1/4" 8mm socket and 8mm flex head closed end ratchet on the nuts. Or you can drop the exhaust. I kept the 1-piece stud/nut and just reused them. The PTU cooler pops out easily, or as much as it can before hitting the subframe. The coolers metal rod elements extend the length of PTU basically. Here she is draining. You can see the o-ring - do not mess it up. Brake cleaner will be your exhausts best friend. I'd say I spilled an ounce or more other than what's in the container but I tried to measure what came out of it. In the sun. Didn't look too bad I thought for 40k miles but idk. Reinstalled PTU cooler and cleaned everything up. Inserted the stud/nuts and torqued to 97 in/lb Here's what I use to fill up transmissions and differentials. Just a regular water vacuum pump you can get on Amazon for $10. Easy peasy no mess no pumping just press a button. I put as much oil as it would take until it started streaming out. Then I spun the tires several times by hand and waited a few more minutes before pumping more fluid in. When the stream stopped and turned into a drip I put the fill plug back on with some thread sealant. Like I said above I don't like how Ford says 33 ft/lbs on the fill plug - that's not happening at least on mine. All cleaned up and done. I'll check the level again in 100 miles or so. The fill plug is inserted further than it was from the factory at 28ft/lbs. Be careful with aluminum. And that's pretty much it. It should take about an hour if you have access to a lift. As with everyone else, I have no idea why Ford couldn't put a drain plug other than to purposely let PTU's eat themselves after the warranty period.

Welcome to the Forum @Huntk420! Surprisingly rare -- the only one -- via online Salvage Yard search engine Car-Part.com... 2019 Edge ST Paint Color: Ford Performance Blue Paint Code: FM Build Date: 10/19/2018 Link - Gundie's Auto Recyclers Link - Vehicle Images Good luck!

Welcome to the Forum @Kellmac! The 2020 Edge Workshop Manual indicates the Rear Door Moulding panel is retained to the body by eleven (11) clips attached to the panel's molded-in pedestals. You might try putting a square of masking tape or low-tack painter's tape on the outer face of the panel corresponding to each of the eleven pedestals, to ensure that you are directly engaging each and every retaining clip. If any of your Edge's clips appear to be damaged when compared to the below photo, replacement clips are available per Ford's online parts-selling site, and through your local dealer's Parts Department. And finally, the 2020 Edge Workshop Manual removal & installation procedure is attached below as a PDF document. Good luck! Link to this FordParts webpage Rear Door Moulding - Removal and Installation - 2020 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

Fuses and Fuse Box Locations - 2024 Nautilus Owner's Manual.pdf Central Junction Box (CJB) - Fuse-Relay Locations - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Central Junction Box (CJB) - Fuses-Circuits Listing #1 - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Central Junction Box (CJB) - Fuses-Circuits Listing #2 - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Central Junction Box (CJB) - Fuses-Circuits Listing #3 - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Central Junction Box (CJB) - Connector C2281A & C2281B Locations - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Central Junction Box (CJB) & Connectors C2281A & C2281B Location - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Battery Junction Box (BCMC) & High Current Battery Junction Box (BJB) Illustration - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Battery Junction Box (BCMC) - Fuses-Circuits Listing #1 - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Battery Junction Box (BCMC) - Fuses-Circuits Listing #2 - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Battery Junction Box (BCMC) - Fuses-Circuits Listing #3 - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Battery Junction Box (BCMC) Illustration & Connectors C1035A & C1035B Location - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Battery Junction Box (BCMC) Illustration & Connectors C1035A & C1035B Location - 2024 Nautilus.pdf Low Voltage High Current Fuse - 2.0L EcoBoost - Removal and Installation - 2024 Nautilus Workshop Manual.pdf Battery Junction Box (BCMC)) - Removal and Installation - 2024 Nautilus Workshop Manual.pdf

The RDU saga - long post So I tackled the install of my “new” RDU last week – it took about 7-8 hours for the complete job – seemed too long for me – the problem was those T-50 torx bolts that hold the RDU to the front brackets – I got the drivers side loose and out easily, but the passenger side ones would not come loose – to the point that the spines in the bolt stripped out and ruined my bit – wound up just removing the entire bracket and using the air hammer and chisel to get those bolts out of the RDU – that accounts for at least an hour and a half The rest was pretty ordinary – just a lot of removing and installing bolts – one problem I encountered was the axle nut on the RR roughed up it’s threads while removing it – the edge of the nut was hammered in to lock it (I assume) – I could not see a way to release it from the threads so it flattened out the threads a bit – It went back on and torqued to specs but, if I ever have to remove it again I might need a new axle shaft - my Launch code tool coded the replacement RDU to the PCM So got it all back together and took it for a test drive – while the growling/grinding noise is gone, it clicked when turning from a stop – I disconnected the electrical connection on RDU and noise disappeared – so I’m figuring the clutch portion of the replacement RDU is defective..?? – I removed the clutch part of the replacement and it had gear oil in it – there is a seal between the two but it failed – I don’t know what the oil does to the clutch part but I’m pretty sure that’s what caused the clutch to fail To remove that seal with diff in car you have to basically destroy it – the seal on my original diff did not leak, but it to was looking rough from the removal process - I thought it a good idea to replace it and looked up the part number stamped on it – went to Ford and the one they had (same part number) was way to big – when they looked up the part number it showed the seal for the front of the clutch where it connects to drive shaft, not the seal between the diff and the clutch – they could not explain why they both have the same part number and that was that – I wound up rehabbing my original seal and reinstalling it I took the clutch portion off my original RDU and put it on the replacement RDU – removing that from the gear portion is pretty simple – the code for the clutch portion is etched into the unit (pic) – recoded my original clutch back into PCM I disassembled the gear portion of my original bad RDU – the gear set looked to be ok as did the left and right side output bearings – the growling was from the pinion bearings – these are double row ball bearings – the cage they are in is plastic – I’ve never seen that before – I don’t know what caused the bearing to fail (it was always lubricated) – it gouged up the race and balls pretty bad, so that’s where all the metal in my oil was from – I removed the race from the pinion gear with a puller – if you could find these bearings I think these units would be rebuildable – the L/R side bearings are a standard bearing (LM-501314) – the pinion ball bearings had no identity markings on them so I’m not sure if they can be obtained So the car is back on the road and the AWD seems to be operating normally – if that rehabbed seal does not leak I think it’s a good fix - total cost for this was around $500 – that includes new wheel bearings, axle shafts, the junkyard RDU, seals, and fluid – hopefully it lasts the rest of the car’s life – thanks to all for the input and advice – and I took the above advice and did not drill a drain into the RDU – I’ll change as much of the oil as I can every 20K miles or so and hope it holds

Searching UK used-vehicles-for-sale websites yields Euro-export ST-Line Edges with rear fog lamps installed, along with the headlamp switch that includes the rear fog lamps on-off button that you have already installed, photos here for Forum members awareness... I pulled VIN-based part numbers for a Euro-Spec export 2019 Edge ST-Line, where Engineering Part number is what was originally installed and Service Part number is the current Replacement Part, shown below... Right Hand Rear Fog Lamp Left Hand Rear Fog Lamp Headlamp Switch Assembly A Ford OEM Parts seller in your home country of Poland offers these same Euro-Spec Rear Fog Lamp part numbers for sale in the below links to their webpages... ODBLASK PRAWY TYŁ EDGE 2018- EUROPA_ 2270319 _ KK7B-15K272-AB _ KK7Z-15200-C ŚWIATŁO PRZECIWMGIELNE LEWE TYŁ EDGE 18- EU _ 2270321 _ KK7B-15K273-AB _ KK7Z-15200-D Per the Ali Express website photos and those on the above-linked webpages, the fog lamp light source apparently inserts into the open-top molded stem leading to the red semi-transparent lens portion of the mostly-reflector Rear Fog Lamp assemblies. While you indicate you may already have wiring information, attached below as PDF documents are Euro-Spec 2019 Edge wiring & connector diagrams for comparably aspiring Forum members... It's worth noting that the Euro-Spec Edge wiring diagram of the Body Control Module (BCM) includes a Field Effect Transistor (FET) protection device for the Rear Fog Lamps circuit, which may not be present in the North American BCM, though crosschecking North American versus European BCM part numbers, or real-world testing on your Edge may otherwise reveal. If you already possess all of this awareness, then at least it's now available to other Forum members. Good luck! Rear Fog Lamps - Wiring Diagram #1 - Euro-Export 2019 Edge.pdf Rear Fog Lamps - Wiring Diagram #2 - Euro-Export 2019 Edge.pdf BODY CONTROL MODULE (BCM) - Connector C2280F - Euro-Spec 2019 Edge.pdf Rear Fog Lamp Left Hand - Connector C436 Location - Euro-Spec 2019 Edge.pdf Rear Fog Lamp Left Hand - Connector C436 Pins-Circuits Detail - Euro-Spec 2019 Edge.pdf Rear Fog Lamp Right Hand - Connector C437 Pins-Circuits Detail - Euro-Spec 2019 Edge.pdf Rear Fog Lamp Right Hand - Connector C437 Location - Euro-Spec 2019 Edge.pdf

From the 2022 Edge Workshop Manual, with emphasis added... Sport Mode In S mode the transmission selects the optimum gear for best performance. This gear selection is typically lower than that of drive (D) and the shifts are faster. For vehicles equipped with steering wheel paddle switches (SelectShift™), selecting sport mode allows the driver to change gears up or down. S mode provides: Additional slope, engine braking and extends lower gear operation to enhance performance for uphill climbs, hilly terrain or mountainous areas. This can increase engine RPM during engine braking. Additional lower gear operation through the automatic transmission shift strategy. Quicker gear selection and at higher engine speeds. Good luck!

Just wanted to clarify on garycrist procedures concerning the refill process. The following is taken from my service manual. For me to reach that required temperature I had to drive the vehicle for awhile. Just by sitting parked and idling, the temps would not go up enough. After I had drained the fluid I refilled it with a little more than I took out before driving. Connect the diagnostic scan tool to the vehicle. Monitor the TFT PID . With the engine running in PARK on a level surface make sure the transmission is at normal operating temperature 85-93° C (185-200° F). With foot on the brake, slowly select each gear position, stopping in each position and allowing the transmission to engage. With the engine running in PARK, remove the oil leveling plug.

My wife has a 2021 Ford Edge ST with the panoramic sunroof. It developed a very annoying squeak over a year ago. Finally got serious about fixing it. Thought the squeak was coming from the rear hatch. Got back there and rode around. Nope. Then we noticed if you cracked the sun shade a bit the severity of the squeaking was reduced. Searched around the internet and found plenty of content discussing how the seals for the sunroof need to wiped down and lubricated. Did that. Nope. Was out running errands today and my wife for some reason pushed up on the sun shade. The squeaking was nearly eliminated. Got home and took a good look at the tracks for it. Went and grabbed some 3-in-1 Garage Door dry lubricant and shot it along the tracks it travels in then cycled it 4-5 times. Took the car out and there is zero squeaking. So if your Edge is cursed with that squeak that kinda sorta sounds like a rattle as well -- get some dry lube aerosol (the kind that comes with an application straw) -- and shoot the lengths of the areas indicated in the photo -- because contrary to popular belief it's not the sunroof that's squeaking -- it's the sunroof shade instead.

Europe/United Kingdom 2022 Edge Rear Fog Lamps wiring diagrams, connector details and locations, attached below as PDF documents... Good luck! Rear Fog Lamps - Wiring Diagram #1 - 2022 Edge - United Kingdom.pdf Rear Fog Lamps - Wiring Diagram #2 - 2022 Edge - United Kingdom.pdf Rear Fog Lamps - Wiring Diagram #3 - 2022 Edge - United Kingdom.pdf Rear Fog Lamp, LH - Connector C436 Location, Rear View - 2022 Edge - United Kingdom.pdf Rear Fog Lamp, LH - Connector C436 Pins-Circuits Details - 2022 Edge - United Kingdom.pdf Rear Fog Lamp, RH - Connector C437 Location, Rear View - 2022 Edge - United Kingdom.pdf Rear Fog Lamp, RH - Connector C437 Pins-Circuits Details - 2022 Edge - United Kingdom.pdf Rear Fog Lamps - Inline Connector C438 Location, Inside View - 2022 Edge - United Kingdom.pdf Rear Fog Lamps - Inline Connector C438 Location, Rear View - 2022 Edge - United Kingdom.pdf

Also, as far as I know, the oil life monitor also takes into account time with the maximum time being 12 months. So if you change the oil as suggested above at 50%, you would be more certainly changing the oil at no more than 5,000 mile or 6 months from when it was last reset. Or you can interpolate the interval you want, knowing that 100% means 10k miles or 12 months. For example, 60% oil life balance would mean 4k miles or 4.8 months.

The closed-spoke steering wheels contain the motor for Adaptive Steering, as described in the 2019 Edge Workshop Manual... Adaptive Steering - Overview The adaptive steering system provides steering assist to the driver by dynamically changing the steering ratio between the steering wheel and the road wheels, thereby reducing the number of steering wheel turns required to turn the road wheels. This is accomplished through the use of a motor, worm gear and toothed hub. All adaptive steering system components are inside the steering wheel, behind the driver air bag. Additional technical detail on Adaptive Steering, from the Workshop Manual... Placing your device cursor over underlined acronyms may yield full-words descriptions of the acronyms. Adaptive Steering - System Operation and Component Description System Operation System Diagram Network Input Message Chart SECM Network Input Messages Broadcast Message Originating Module Message Purpose ABS active ABS module Used to inform the SECM an ABS event is taking place. Active front steering request ABS module Used to request steering angle changes for stability control events. EPAS fail PSCM Used to inform the SECM of an EPAS or PSCM failure. Lane keeping system status IPMA Informs the SECM of the current lane keeping system status. Odometer master value IPC This message is sent to the GWM and then to the SECM . Provides the SECM with the current odometer value in kilometers. Power pack status PCM This message is sent to the GWM and then to the SECM . Used to inform the SECM of powertrain status; OFF-torque not available, ON-torque not available, Start in Progress-torque not available, ON-torque available. Restraint impact event status RCM Informs the SECM of airbag deployment and fuel system cutoff due to a vehicle impact event. Stability control event in progress ABS module Used to inform the SECM a stability control event is taking place. Steering wheel angle ABS module Provides the SECM with steering wheel angle information for clear vision compensation. Steering wheel heat request IPC This message is sent to the GWM and then to the SECM . Informs the SECM the driver has requested the heated steering wheel to be activated. Transport mode BCM This message is sent to the GWM and then to the SECM . Used to confirm the vehicle is in normal operation mode, factory mode or transport mode. Turn signal status SCCM Informs the SECM of the current turn signal status; LEFT, RIGHT or OFF. Vehicle braking command ABS module Used to inform the SECM of vehicle braking. Vehicle configuration information BCM This message is sent to the GWM and then to the SECM . Provides the SECM with the current vehicle configuration (central car configuration). Vehicle speed PCM This message is sent to the GWM and then to the SECM . Used to inform the SECM of the current vehicle speed. Vehicle yaw data ABS module Provides the SECM with vehicle yaw data for clear vision compensation. Adaptive Steering System The SECM controls the functions of the adaptive steering system and communicates with other modules through the SASM over the HS-CAN2 . The SECM and the SASM communicate over a private CAN . To activate, the SECM requires battery voltage, ignition voltage and must communicate with other modules over the HS-CAN2 . The SECM must also receive the power pack status message from the PCM in order to activate. The SECM uses a motor to turn a toothed hub connected to the steering shaft to add or subtract incremental turns to the driver steering shaft input. At low speeds the same steering input from the driver delivers more front wheel angle, providing more low-speed agility. Low speed maneuvers require significantly less steering wheel rotation. At high speeds, straight line driving precision is increased, providing the driver with an improved highway driving experience and feel during moderate-to-high-speed cornering. As the driver turns the steering wheel, the SASM detects the speed and direction of the steering wheel rotation and transmits this information to the SECM over a private CAN . The SECM responds by activating the motor in the appropriate direction and speed to assist in turning the front wheels and reducing the necessary number of steering wheel turns required by the driver. The SECM is self-monitoring and is capable of setting and storing Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). Depending on the nature of the DTC , the SECM may engage the adaptive steering lock and may send a request to the IPC to illuminate the adaptive steering system warning indicator and display a message in the message center alerting the driver of a potential adaptive steering system concern. The warning message is sent over the HS-CAN2 to the GWM where it is converted to a HS-CAN3 message and forwarded on to the IPC over the HS-CAN3 . Adaptive Steering Lock The adaptive steering system is designed with a locking device. While the lock is engaged, the steering system is set to a fixed (1:1) steering ratio. A sound may be heard when the vehicle is started or shut off as the lock is disengaged or engaged and a slight movement of the steering wheel may be noticed while the locking action is taking place. If the vehicle loses electrical power or the SECM detects a fault while driving, the lock is engaged. Extreme operating conditions may also cause the SECM to engage the lock. This strategy prevents overheating and permanent damage to the adaptive steering system. Typical steering and driving maneuvers allow the system to cool and return to normal operation. While the lock is engaged, it is possible the steering wheel may not be straight when the vehicle is driving straight ahead and the driver may notice the steering wheel angle or "clear vision" may be off-set. The locking solenoid also engages when the ignition is set to ON and the driver door is closed, this prevents the steering wheel from turning unnecessarily while the system is off and affecting steering wheel clear vision. The locking solenoid disengages once the engine is started. Heated Steering Wheel The SECM is also the controlling ECU for the heated steering wheel system. For additional information on heated steering wheel functionality, Refer to: Steering Wheel and Column Electrical Components - System Operation and Component Description (211-05 Steering Wheel and Column Electrical Components, Description and Operation). Component Description Adaptive Steering Locking Solenoid The locking solenoid is a normally engaged (locked) solenoid which requires a voltage input to disengage (unlock). This provides a fail-safe in case of SECM or adaptive steering system failure. Adaptive Steering Motor The adaptive steering motor is a reversible, variable speed motor with an attached worm gear. The motor is internal to the steering wheel and is serviced with the steering wheel. SECM The SECM is the ECU for the adaptive steering system. The module monitors all sensor inputs and HS-CAN2 messages relating to the adaptive steering system and directly controls the output of the adaptive steering motor. The SECM is internal to the steering wheel and is serviced with the steering wheel. Conventional Edge steering wheel... Good luck!

I think I found an easier solution to this issue. I was able to slide a screw driver under the clip and rotate it a little to lift it up. I then slid a thick piece of felt under the end of the clip and dropped it back down. I purchased a pack of those round stick-on felt pads that go on the bottom of kitchen chair legs from the Dollar Tree. The one I used was the size of a nickel. The very annoying tick is completely gone!!!!:) I had to redo this felt pad solution because it eventually compressed too much and the rattle came back. I ended up using a round piece of plastic about the size and thickness of a nickel with felt stuck to both sides. Just sticking felt to both sides of an actual nickel would also work well.

Link to this FordParts webpage Good luck!

SSM 53601 2020-2023 Explorer/Aviator, 2020-2025 Police Interceptor Utility, 2020-2025 Escape/Corsair, 2022-2025 Maverick, 2024-2025 Nautilus - Hybrid - Illuminated MIL With DTC P2450:00 Stored In The PCM Some 2020-2023 Explorer/Aviator, 2020-2025 Police Interceptor Utility, 2020-2025 Escape/Corsair, 2022-2025 Maverick, and 2024-2025 Nautilus vehicles equipped with a hybrid powertrain may exhibit an illuminated malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) with diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P2450:00 stored in the powertrain control module (PCM). This may be due to an evaporative emission system concern or may also be caused by the customer overfilling the fuel tank. If this condition occurs, perform normal diagnosis per Workshop Manual (WSM) Section, 303-13 and repair as necessary. Inform the customer that the condition may have been caused by overfilling of the fuel tank and to not top-off the fuel tank when the fuel pump nozzle automatically shuts off for the first time. Refer the customer to the Fuel and Refueling section of their Owner Manual for additional information.

Back again after a different dealership having my Edge for just about a month. I THINK we have figured out the problem. I will paste the (quite long) write-up from the master mechanic - as it would be more helpful than anything I would try to explain. Hopefully it helps at least ONE person that may be experiencing a similar problem. 2020 Ford Edge ST with 17k miles on it, 100 visits to dealerships, ridiculous amounts of time without the car, $1000's wasted, "fixes" that ended up not being fixes, etc. The master mechanic found it to be the driveshaft installed improperly from the factory. Please read the write-up for more details. I appreciate all the messages with guesses at what this could be. After getting a new transmission and it essentially being a placebo-fix where we weren't hearing the noise for a short period, here is to hoping that this new, properly installed driveshaft resolves this FIVE YEAR problem we've been experiencing. Thanks again!

Who would have guessed that one day your Social Security would be at risk?

This is what I use for extracting the RDU oil. I made the shepherds hook/candy cane with a wire coat hanger inside some silicone tubing, used with my BMW oil extractor.

Hi all, I was able to complete the repair successfully! It wasn't the hardest repair I have ever done, but it also wasn't the easiest. If you take a plastic trim removal piece, the little white clips are very easy to pop off. The problem I faced when doing this repair was, as the manual stated, some come with little dollops of polyurethane in the corners, and my car was one of the ones that had this. It is a very tight spot to get a razor blade in there. I am, unfortunately, at college, so I have very limited access to tools, but I would recommend a spackle knife to get in there and to pull that polyurethane out. This is a very tedious process and takes a good amount of time. Once that was finished, the whole trim piece popped off, allowing me to access the underside to install all of the clips. I got new clips from a Ford dealership, and I noticed a little upgrade was made to them. There is a little white piece that applies pressure to ensure that the clips don't fall out, like how mine fell out. You can notice the difference in the picture below. Once the clips were installed, some of the weather stripping came undone so I purchased new weather stripping at Home Depot and installed it. To reinstall the trim piece, you can simply line up the holes with the clips you installed on the trim piece and then apply some pressure; you will hear loud clicks for every clip you have. You must insert the clips into the trim piece, you can't put the clips onto the frame of the car. During this whole process, I got a little impatient undoing the polyurethane and snapped the trim piece in 2 places. I was able to silicone the pieces back together, it's not very noticeable, but I would recommend taking your time to not let this happen to you. Down below I have numerous photos of the whole process, let me know if anyone needs help. Again, thank you everyone for your help, you made this process a whole lot better for me! B7707F98-D065-4C9B-9911-2698517FCE65_1_201_a.heic

I have finally solved the issue of the rear seat belt extenders for my 2020 Ford Edge Titanium. We have child booster seats for our two granddaughters and it was very difficult to secure the seatbelts because of how low the receptacles are set in the rear seat. With the 60/40 split fold down rear seat, there are two completely different seat belt connectors. One for the seat on the passenger side and one for the seat in the middle and driver's side. The seat on the passenger side has a unique buckle arrangement and requires the following extender (KT4Z-78611C22-AA). The seat on the drivers side (and middle seat) has a normal buckle and uses the following extender (6L2Z-78611C22-AA). Once I got both of these and made sure they worked, I tried to explain this to the parts person at the local Ford dealership. They were uninterested. Please note that both of these are available free of charge from Ford, although they may have to be ordered. The passenger side extender is the more difficult one to obtain.

I wasn't happy with the light in the trunk at all. If the light isn't blocked, then everything is fine. But when it's blocked, it's hard to find anything. The lampshade is inserted into a frame made of textolite. I disassembled the right side of the interior to lower the ceiling. We connect to the rear right light. We place the lantern in the middle, carefully cut it out and insert it. We get the final result.

Good luck! 360 Camera - Wiring Diagram 2 - 2024 Edge - China.pdf 360 Camera - Wiring Diagram 1 - 2024 Edge - China.pdf Parking Aid - Component Location - Description and Operation - 2024 Edge Workshop Manual - China.pdf Side Parking Aid Camera - Removal and Installation - 2024 Edge Workshop Manual - China.pdf

From the Edge-Nautilus 2.0L EcoBoost Workshop Manual, regarding the P0420 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)... Placing your device cursor over underlined acronyms may yield pop-up full-words descriptions of the acronyms. DTC Fault Trigger Conditions DTC Description Fault Trigger Condition PCM P0420:00 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1: No Sub Type Information Sets when PCM detects the bank 1 catalyst system efficiency is below the acceptable threshold. Under normal closed loop fuel conditions, high efficiency catalysts have oxygen storage capability. As catalyst efficiency deteriorates, its ability to store oxygen declines. Refer to the Catalyst Efficiency Monitor description for additional information. Diagnose any base engine concerns. Refer to the appropriate 303-00 section, Engine System. Possible Causes HO2S 2WD 4WD circuitry concern Exhaust system concern Contaminated oil Base engine concern Fuel injector Turbocharger HO2S

It is in the very back of the area where the roof opens on the right (passenger) side. There is a silver metal clip, almost hook shaped, that goes over a metal thin rod that goes from the left to right side of the vehicle in the back. It is very hard to see. You have to push the left side of your head against the glass (with the sunscreen cover all the way open of course) and look towards that back passenger side corner. I got one of those very small eyeglass screwdrivers and put a thin piece of cloth about 1/2 inch square over the end of the screwdriver and pushed it between the silver metal springlike hook that goes over the bar and the rattle/ticking is gone! I have had mine work its way out a few times and had to push it back in.

Just thought I'd talk to any fellow vets on the site. I go to the VA once a year for an annual physical, assigned to a great Nurse Practioner (she's as tough as any Marine I ever served with.) I use my Medicare for my medical but still maintain my VA status with an annual physical. (May drop my Part D drug plan and got with the VA next year inasmuch as all Plan D's are raising their rates, deductibles and moving drugs from lower to higher tiers in the formulary. She's been on me for a few years to file for disability. Don't believe that I'm disabled, but she finally talked me into filing for Agent Orange exposure, loss of hearing and tendinitis. Sent me to several doctors at different places and got results showing that I'm 80% disabled. (80% rating is worth $2k a month. Tax free.) So the purpose of this is, if your a vet, you're entitled to VA Health care. Get a full blood panel and complete physical. You can get your prescriptions through the VA (really cheap) plus a bunch of other stuff, like insurance (can apply up to age 80, no underwriting) college (for the younger guys, etc.) So if you're a vet and not hooked up with the VA, look into it. You earned it.

The Edge, the model sold by the car company "Ford Motor Company". At least since 2011 Ford has used this strategy, the main benefit is to reduce fuel consumption by reducing load from the alternator when charging is not required. This can even be seen by monitoring the voltage output of the alternator. I am using ForScan lite (Android). The PID is "BdyCM.BAT_ST_CHRG", see screenshot attached. As for AGM selection, seeing how I probably was wrong before, I wouldn't follow the F150 sheet. However, since an Edge with auto-start stop does have an AGM from the factory, maybe use the ABD from that? Checking VINs of Edges online, a 2016 Edge SE FWD that has Auto-Start stop has "01" in the battery type. So does a 2023 Edge ST that has Auto-Start stop. (As per the the F150 sheet this correspondences to BAGM-48H6-760 70Ah 760CCA, which is the stock Edge battery with Auto-Start stop).

Thanks @omar302 This morning when I connected my laptop to change the battery config as you suggested above, and it was taking me longer to get Forscan to communicate with the OBDLink MX+ and with that I got the battery low warning, and that's after it was on the tender overnight. Decided its time for a new one, so the quickest was to buy one from Walmart - I got the H6 AGM Platinum for $178.00 - it gets good reviews online. The Interstate H6 bought from Costco lasted 3 years and 1 month, just out of warranty. With the new battery installed I first changed the type as above and then did a BMS reset. Note that the new AGM is 3kg (6.6 lb) heavier than the previous one. I paid the $12 for a years subscription to Forscan - feel it well worth it and the developers most certainly deserve the support. .

Today the windshield installer left my lights ON in Aux Power mode for ages to the point that it cut out - I then put my 2.5 Amps charger on it and a while later when he wanted to connect the Autel device to in Aux Power mode, this time with the lights and AC unit off, it still cut out quicker than it should, but of course it didn't have much time to charge since the first event. I started looking at a replacement and decided I'd go with an AGM H6 this time, but after getting it fully charged my battery tester says that its still 100% healthy so I'll hold off on the replacement for now. This is what I'll go with next time: ACDelco Gold Automotive AGM Batteries 88864541 $167.00

Thanks @Haz As I walked out to my driveway when the installer returned I found the metal clip that he was adamant wasn't installed - he apologized. We spent a long time on the phone with Autel and their response was that they've got to install a new windshield because the mirror/camera mounting must be wrong. I prompted that we repeat the calibration process using the Autel because I suspected that he did not follow the procedure correctly previously - after about 10 to 15 minutes on the road the fault on the dash cleared and the Autel said calibration completed successfully. See photo of the rain sensor clip installed.

Happy Thanksgiving to all. As an update my dealer installed a new torque converter and had to go back to get belts tightened to reduce noise….. so far all is running better than new….. all covered o under the drivetrain warranty’s

HAPPY THANKSGIVING AND A BIG THANK YOU to all who have posted in this thread. I was able to convince my Ford Service department that I did indeed have a transmission issue with my 2019 Edge SEL, 2L turbo. I searched this forum and finally found this thread. I have ALL the same conditions with my transmission. I even had the fluid changed ($500) with 79900 miles. At that time, there was no issue but wanted to maintain this vehicle for a long life. After the fluid was changed, during cold weather, I started having hard up and down shifts. I SHOULD HAVE RETURNED TO THE DEALER IMMEDIATELY. But the weather warmed up and the issue(s) disappeared. Now, at 89900 miles, the issue(s) have resurfaced and the weather is colder. I took it to a dealer after reading this forum. The service technician VERIFIED my concerns with the shifting issues. Fortunately, I had bought a non-Ford service contract and the $6000 cost will be paid in full!!!. I did have choices...The service contract that I had was with Route 66. I chose this company because it is thousands less than the Ford, Chrysler, or Zurich plans hawked by the dealer. This one I bought through the credit union. They have been great to work with and I even get money for a rental/loaner car. I did opt for a Ford Certified and rebuilt transmission rather than the "used" transmission that my plan covered. The additional $500 cost, to me, was worth it as I intend to keep this vehicle. The re manufactured transmission will be warranted to 2 years with UNLIMITED mileage. Since my service contract goes to 120K miles and into 2027, I figured it was (is) the best option. Again, THANKS to all who posted on this thread!!

Heating/cooling for both front seats is regulated by Driver Side Front Seat Module (DSM) that you have pictured. Power to the DSM is protected by fuses F74 and F77, located beneath the underside cover of the Battery Junction Box. From the 2020 Edge Workshop Manual and Wiring Resource, attached below as PDF documents... Good luck! Climate Controlled Seats - Power Distribution - Wiring Diagram - 2020 Edge.pdf Climate Controlled Seats, Left Hand - Wiring Diagram - 2020 Edge.pdf Climate Controlled Seats, Right Hand - Wiring Diagram - 2020 Edge.pdf Driver Front Seat Module (DSM) Connectors Loctation Illustration - 2020 Edge.pdf Front Seats - System Operation and Component Description - 2020 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Driver Front Seat Module (DSM) - Removal and Installation - 2020 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Battery Junction Box (BJB) - Top View - 2020 Edge.pdf Battery Junction Box (BJB) - Bottom View - 2020 Edge.pdf Battery Junction Box (BJB) - Fuse-Circuits Listing #1 - 2020 Edge.pdf Battery Junction Box (BJB) - Fuse-Circuits Listing #2 - 2020 Edge.pdf

When servicing the transmission take these steps and save $$$$s. Easy as pie but, things have changed from prior models. Tools needed; Common screw driver 8mm or 7 mm socket, 14mm socket, 10mm hex (Allen Key) 6 quarts of ULV Mercon I used Vavoline pliers to remove clamp for the fill port . The trick to get cheaper transmission fluid was to order it online from O'Riley's and pick it up! That saves $$$s. 1. ST up to operating temp. 2. Remove Air Box 3. Remove lower cover under transmission. 4. Use 14 MM socket to drain transmission. DO NOT REMOVE 10 mm ALLEN PLUG TILL FLUID IS DRAINED! Otherwise a flood of fluid is yours to clean-up. 5. After fluid is drained remove 10MM Allen plug and reinstall 14MM drain plug. 6. With vehicle level, add 3 quarts of fluid and start ST. 7. Add 2 more quarts and shift into all gears several times. 8. Add last quart with drain pan under the 14MM plug. As the St warms up fluid will leak out till full @ 185 degrees of fluid temp. Once the flow slows down reinstall 10MM plug WITH ENGINE RUNNING!!! If you turn off the engine while the 10MM plug is out, a flood of fluid will gush out requiring MORE transmission fluid. Put it back together and smile.

SSM 53089 - Vehicles Equipped with SYNC4 - Intermittent Symptoms After All Available Software Updates Performed - Awareness of Solutions Being Developed Some vehicles equipped with SYNC4 may exhibit one or more of the following symptoms after all currently available accessory protocol interface module (APIM) software updates have been performed. - General system performance, stability, and intermittent system reboots. - Intermittent Wireless CarPlay or Android Auto function. - Phone related concerns with intermittent No Audio or Static. - Navigation/global positioning system (GPS) related concerns through CarPlay and Android Auto. - Alexa function consistency and stability. These symptoms may be due to the software in the APIM. Replacing the APIM will not resolve these symptoms for the customer. Before returning the vehicle to the customer, review the procedures within Workshop Manual, Section 415-00 and ensure the latest APIM software is installed. Refer to General Service Bulletin (GSB) 23-7146 for help determining the latest available level of software. IMPORTANT: some module software updates will only display as available on Ford Diagnosis and Repair System (FDRS) after prerequisite modules are updated. This may require the technician to update certain modules multiple times during the service visit, before the latest APIM software is accessible in FDRS. If symptoms continue after latest APIM software has been installed, inform customers that Ford is working on additional software enhancements which are expected to be delivered over-the-air (OTA) in Q1 2025. Software will update automatically if vehicle connectivity is enabled in the vehicle's settings. Schedule a service visit for customers who have disabled vehicle connectivity or who report that they did not receive the update in late Q1 2025. Monitor OASIS for additional information.

I traded my 2016 sport in on a 2020 explorer ST.. so I'm no longer in the cool kids club.. 🤣 I'm sure you all will miss me terribly LOL I am grateful for the reference info and shared experience which has made my Edge ownership easier. Best wishes to one and all Peace out!

AP is the Regional Identifier for the Asia Pacific market. Using your Edge's North American market VIN to determine if any Trim Level differences in the installed Rear Bumper reflector assemblies, none are found -- meaning NA 2022 Edge SE/SEL/Titanium/ST-Line/ST all use the same Reflector Assembly... Link to web browser-zoomable/scrollable illustration shown in this FordParts Right Hand part listing The reflector-lens installed on North American Edges appears to use the same mount base as is provided for the Euro-Spec Rear Fog Lamp assemblies... ...with the North American reflector lens lacking the red semi-transparent lens portion of the Euro-Spec Rear Fog Lamp assemblies... Attached below as PDF documents are the Pin-Circuit descriptions for the North American & Euro-Spec versions of Headlamp Switch Connector C205, toward utilizing your installed Euro-spec headlamp switch's rear fog lamps button... Good luck! Headlamp Switch - Connector C205 Location - NA 2020 Edge.pdf Headlamp Switch - Connector C205 Pin-Circuit Details - NA 2020 Edge.pdf Headlamp Switch - Connector C205 Pin-Circuit Details - UK 2020 Edge.pdf

In my case (same symptoms), definitely diagnosed as a bad relay (stuck/welded closed/on). This is a common failure mode for relays in general. I disassembled the bad relay to see firsthand. The corroded contact with charred carbon deposits confirms the failure mode. The new/shiny/clean contact is an example of an unused contact surface. BTW, the Ford OEM part has been upgraded since 2017 and is rated for 40amps. Beware aftermarket parts lacking a rating or possessing a lower rating, e.g. “25 amps”.

Welcome to the Forum @Ashley S! Original Recall info and subsequent discussion can be found here... Safety Recall 22S43 - Certain 2015 - 2018 Edge + Other Models -- Transmission Shifter Cable Bushing Good luck!

@garycrist: Fluid specifications and related procedures from 2022-2024 Edge Workshop Manual are attached below as PDF documents... Good luck! Specifications - Rear Drive Axle-Differential - 2022-2024 Edge.pdf Differential Draining and Filling - Rear Drive Axle-Differential - 2022-2024 Edge.pdf Differential Fluid Level Check - Rear Drive Axle-Differential - 2022-2024 Edge.pdf Specifications - Power Transfer Unit - 2.7L EcoBoost - 2022-2024 Edge.pdf Power Transfer Unit Draining and Filling - Power Transfer Unit - 2.7L EcoBoost - 2022-2024 Edge.pdf Power Transfer Unit Fluid Level Check - Power Transfer Unit - 2.7L EcoBoost - 2022-2024 Edge.pdf

I'm gonna let the dealer figure it out. That's what the extended warranty is for. But at least I have a diagnostic clue before they get their hands on it.

Mine came from the factory with holes already. I thought they had corrected the issue. I've never had condensation in mine (to my knowledge).

@Wubster100: Your Edge might qualify for a warranty replacement. From General Service Bulletin 24-7068 - Various Vehicles - Exterior Lighting Concern Analysis... Examples Of Water Leaks (Figures 6-8) - Warrantable Figure 6 - example of water leak (large droplets) - warrantable Figure 7 - example of water leak (streaking) - warrantable Figure 8 - example of water leak (pooling at bottom) - warrantable Good luck!

SSM 52722 - 2019–2024 Ford And Lincoln Vehicles - Equipped With SYNC3 - Various FordPass/LincolnWay Connectivity Concerns With DTC B156D:89 Stored The Telematics Control Unit Module (TCU) Some 2019-2024 Ford and Lincoln vehicles equipped with SYNC3 may experience various FordPass/LincolnWay connectivity concerns including but not limited to: missing activation prompt (pop-up) on the vehicle's center display screen when attempting to activate vehicle through FordPass/LincolnWay, incorrect location/global positioning system (GPS) reported through FordPass/LincolnWay, problems with remote commands being performed through FordPass/LincolnWay, incorrect data/information reported on FordPass/LincolnWay. These symptoms will be accompanied by diagnostic trouble code (DTC) B156D:89 in the TCU. This may be due the accessory protocol interface module (APIM) software. To correct the condition, update the APIM software.

Based upon your observations, the following 2020 Edge Workshop Manual sections may be helpful... Good luck! Air Conditioning Odor Treatment - General Procedures - 2020 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf A-C Odor Remover Flexible Applicator - Rotunda 258-62644 - AirSept - YN-29 Applicator.pdf Blower Motor Speed Control - Removal and Installation - 2020 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Cabin Air Filter - Removal and Installation - 2020 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Climate Control System - Dual Automatic Temperature Control (DATC) - Component Location - 2020 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Cowl Panel Grille - Removal and Installation - 2020 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Windshield Wiper Pivot Arm - Removal and Installation - 2020 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Air Inlet Door Actuator - Removal and Installation - 2020 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

Wow, that's the cheapest I've seen. The lowest I've found outside of Rock auto was $8/qt.