akirby

OP has a 2011. Oops - OP hasn't updated their signature. But that is a good clarification. The horn beep is telling you that you left the vehicle running without a fob. E.g. if you had the only fob in your pocket and your wife dropped you off somewhere and drove off, when she got to her destination and turned off the vehicle she would not be able to restart it (after 30 seconds or so at least). It has nothing to do with the door locks.

On a 2011 you should have the option to disable autolock in the vehicle settings menu. On the horn you have 3 options: Turn off the engine. Leave the keyfob in the vehicle. Don't close the door all the way.

I thought they changed map vendors too.....

If those don't work you'll have to take it to the dealer.

There are only 5 buttons but instead of only using numbers 1-5 they decided to allow you to use all 10 digits (0-9) so you can create codes that are easy to remember like birthdays or other numbers. It doesn't matter if you're pressing the same button twice in a row, or 5 times in a row. Even with only 5 nu,bears you could have a code of 11111. In this case 11111, 22222 and 12121 all equal 5 presses of the 1/2 button.

Yes.

It should stay on longer than 10 minutes. Perhaps your battery is weak.

Did you give Ford a chance to fix it?

Just for more info - the only real change you can make to the engine to get more mpg is to advance the timing. This will yield more power and typically a slight increase in mpg. But in order to prevent knocking you need to run higher octane (91 or 93) fuel which costs more. The added fuel cost outweighs any small mpg gains. But look at it this way - if it was easy to add 3-4 mpg with a simple bolt-on (and no downsides) the auto mfrs would have done it years ago.

No chips - they don't work. The only option is a tuner like SCT. Don't count on any savings - to get better mpg will require Premium fuel (plus the cost of the tuner itself), but you can gain some power and better response.

I don't understand why they haven't added a drain plug and fluid change intervals either.

Well that's a different scenario entirely. Ford is saying it may or may not be a software update problem, so you may have to agree to pay for the diagnosis up front but if it turns out to be the software update then I'm sure they'll cover it under the apim warranty. It also depends entirely on what the dealership told Ford about the problem. I've seen one dealer be denied and another one get the same problem on the same vehicle covered with no problem.

Oh trust me - the dealer invoice prices on the internet are accurate for the individual items, they just don't include the advertising fee. The dealers get an additional 3% "rebate" from Ford - this is called holdback. So on a $40K invoice the dealer only pays $38,800 net. There are also other bonuses and incentives for the dealers that aren't published. The truecar price would also take into account any incentives. So you could buy a $40K invoice vehicle with a $1K rebate for $38K and the dealer would still be making a profit. And that's not taking into account the documentation fee. If the dealer is charging a $600 doc fee then that's pure profit. It changes a $100 below invoice price to $500 over invoice. And again - you can't trust what others are paying because you don't know their trade-in. If your trade-in is really worth $10K but I only give you $8K, I could sell the new vehicle for $1500 below invoice and still make $500 plus the doc fee plus the holdback. Only a few dealers will actually sell below invoice - most will be at invoice up to $500 over invoice plus a small doc fee. The nice thing about X plan is the price is the same at every dealer and they limit the doc fee to $100. It's about $150 above invoice but you don't have to even think of haggling. You just figure out the vehicle you want, find it in stock or order it and the only thing to haggle about is the trade-in.

Check with the dealer again or try another dealer. That should be a no charge fix since it was Ford's screwup.

I think A and Z plan are 4% below dealer invoice. The dealer gets a spiff check from Ford to make it profitable. X plan used to be slightly below invoice but now it's around $150 over invoice, give or take $50.

But they do extend warranties on some parts. Focus trannys and TCMs e.g. They just don't do it on everything. What you're asking for is really a 100K mile bumper to bumper warranty where Ford covers everything under warranty - and that would add at least $1K to the vehicle cost. You can buy a 100K/7 yr premium ESP on most vehicles for $1500 or less.

I did not remove any hoses when I replaced mine.

I started my career in Unix so I pretty much detest everything that Microsoft does.

You don't really need one. You can turn the radio on by itself by just hitting the power button.

As an IT architect of 30 years, no truer words have been spoken. Sometimes you just shake your head.......

Also when looking at actual transaction prices you have to take into account the games they play with trade-ins. I can sell you the new vehicle for $1K below invoice if I give you $2K below wholesale for your trade-in. And vice versa. Very hard to get accurate prices when there is a trade-in.

That wasn't the question though. Dealer invoice is still dealer invoice. Of course it doesn't include holdback (typically 3%). Dealer incentives vary and are not generally published, although Edmunds does usually show them. You can get vehicles below dealer invoice (not counting normal rebates) but invoice to invoice + $500 is more typical depending on the vehicle and supply/demand. Plus the ever-popular "Documentation Fee" otherwise known as Additional Dealer Profit.

You must lock the doors before engaging remote start with the fob. Not sure if you have to do it with the app or if it does it automatically but it does have to be locked for security. It does not flash the hazard lights.

I installed a tow wiring harness on the MKX to go with the aftermarket hitch. Ended up removing the bumper twice because I couldn't get to the power wire on the relay module after I reinstalled it the first time. Luckily it's pretty easy to remove and reinstall. Including the hitch install I've done it 3 times now. I tapped into the rear accessory power feed instead of running a wire all the way to the battery since I'm only planning to tow a small utility trailer every once in awhile. Now I just have to fix the trailer ground (folding tongue isn't grounding to the rest of the trailer).

Go to edmunds.com or other internet websites and look up the dealer invoice price for the vehicle you want including destination charges. Then add about $450 to cover the factory advertising fee and you'll be within $100 of the actual dealer invoice.