akirby

That doesn't sound like enough RPM for a downshift. I still think it's the torque converter locking/unlocking. It may be defective.

If you're using the cruise control it will downshift to keep from going over the set speed. If you're not using cruise control I think it only downshifts if you are touching the brakes while going downhill.

Just to clarify - you mean adjusting the mirror glass itself right? Not power folding mirrors? Sounds like the switch is bad if it's happening on both mirrors. Should be an easy fix.

You can get a new MKX with the 2.7L and the factory tow pkg.......

Oops - guess I forgot to hit the attach button. Should be there now.

You don't need to use premium. Try a tank on each and decide for yourself. I don't think you'll notice the difference in everyday driving.

Wheels

The order guide is posted over at blueovalforums. The only changes are floor liners and colors and Titanium wheels. I'll post it when I get a chance but here are the details. EXTERIOR ● New — 20” Premium Polished Aluminum (64Q) Wheels optional on Titanium 301A and 302A ● Changed — Titanium standard wheel changed from 19" Premium Luster Nickel-Painted Aluminum to 19" Nickel-Painted Aluminum — Description to remove “Ultra” from Titanium optional wheel; 20” Bright-Machined-Aluminum Wheels with Premium Dark Stainless-Painted Pockets (64U) — Front License Plate Bracket (153) has been moved from the Free Standing Packages & Options (FSO) section on each Equipment Group page to the Emissions page ● New Colors — Burgundy Velvet Metallic Tinted Clearcoat (R3) — Canyon Ridge (C7)1 — Blue Jeans (N1)11 — White Gold (GN)11 ● Deleted Colors — Bronze Fire Metallic Tinted Clearcoat — Electric Spice — Kona Blue — Too Good to Be Blue INTERIOR/COMFORT ● New — Floor Liners, Front and Rear (16W) are optional on all series PACKAGES ● New — The Cold Weather Package (55C) has two new features; Floor Liners, Front and Rear, and Windshield Wiper De-Icer

Did you do any work at the wheels - bleeding fluid, etc.? You may have damaged/unplugged a wheel speed sensor.

I'd be wary of any warranty that promises lifetime coverage.

Edge Sport uses the 6F55, not the Powershift. That's Focus/Fiesta only. It's not a safety feature - it just helps with speed control. If you're going downhill and touch the brakes it will downshift to maintain speed without you needing to ride the brakes. Tap the accelerator to cancel it or don't hit the brakes to avoid engaging it in the first place.

Check the sunglass holder and make sure the visors are clipped. I've had several cases where the noise sounded like it was in the back seat area but it was actually a loose visor or rattling sunglasses. Can be very tricky. Also check the rear seat belts. Ours rattles against the C pillar if it gets turned sideways.

It could be the torque converter locking/unlocking

Wow. That's a great deal.

He's looking at the Sport - no factory hitch available.

The proper term is "bleeding the system" to remove trapped air.

The wire harness plugs into the taillights on each side - unplug taillight - plug in harness in between. No splicing at all. The only splicing is for the power feed. I used a simple blue crimp connector behind the 12V power outlet on the left side of the cargo area (the panel just pulls off). I had to use a smaller wire than the one they provided but it worked fine (the one provided is heavier because it's designed to go all the way to the battery). You'll also need to drill a small hole to secure the ground wire.

I was about to refer you to the recent topic on the MKX forum but then I realized you posted both of them.

On #2 - it's not difficult to install a hitch and wiring harness if you're handy. The hardest part is getting power to the wiring module all the way from the battery or you may be able to tap into a circuit in the rear cargo area. It requires removing the bumper but it's not difficult (assuming it's the same as my MKX). The hitches come with special wires that are coiled on one end to screw onto the bolts. Then you just feed the wire through the frame and through the bolt holes in the hitch. Can be a little tricky but it's not too bad. Figure around $300. I'm sure you can get it installed by a shop for another $200-$300.

Huh? Leasing companies make their living by gauging depreciation 3 years away. There can always be an exception where a big market change takes place unexpectedly but that's rare. Of course it works both ways - some may end up with a higher residual value. The only advantage with leasing is you have a written contract with a stated residual value so there is no negotiating. If you sell it yourself you can get retail price rather than wholesale price but it's obviously less convenient.

How old was the truck? Did you buy it new or used? Was there a trade-in?

There is no financial benefit to turning in a lease versus selling the vehicle or trading it in. Either way you're paying the depreciation on the vehicle. If you purchase it you can sell it any time you want without having to wait for the end of the lease. Of course selling a vehicle after 1 or 2 years will hit you hard on depreciation but no worse than if you leased it for the same period. It is simply more convenient to turn it in after 2 or 3 years and walk away if you don't like the vehicle. You don't have to negotiate a sales price or trade-in allowance.

Just FYI - he's in Kazakhstan........

The cabin air filter was probably clogged.

Welcome stranger......