akirby

First, do you understand that you're setting the temperature you want to achieve (like a home thermostat) and not the temperature of the air coming out? So it's possible to get the same type of air from the vents regardless of whether it's set to 73 or 83 if the ambient temp is a lot higher or a lot lower than that range. Second - when you set it to Hi or Lo it ignores the ambient temp and give you full heat or full A/C respectively. That seems to be working correctly. Just wanted to make sure you understood how it was designed to work. It may or may not be working correctly but you need to know how it's designed to work so you can properly evaluate it.

Turn on the engine when it's cold and turn the A/C on max. Both fans should come on. If they don't it's the fans. A/C blowing hot is a classic symptom - it means there is no air being drawn across the condensor coil so no cooling. When you start moving you get airflow over the coil.

Sounds like it.

Nobody is excusing bad dealer behavior. There is plenty of that to go around. But that doesn't mean that every transaction that a customer is unhappy about is the result of bad dealer behavior. I worked retail for several years in college and the one thing I learned is the customer isn't always right and while you should try to make your customers as happy as possible there are limits. Some customers are unreasonable and have unreasonable expectations. If someone says a dealer lied to them you need to know the details to figure out what really happened. Some people get upset about a dealer "low-balling" their trade-in and in most cases they're comparing the retail value of their vehicle with the black book or wholesale value.

It's not that the story is BS, just that there were no details up front. Look at the extended warranty claim. What the buyer wanted was a separate transaction for the ext. warranty paid by credit card. What the finance guy wrote up was one sale including the warranty with the credit card payment as a down payment. That is standard practice for the finance guy so this probably falls into the area of simple miscommunication (especially since the buyer saw the paperwork and signed it) rather than dishonesty. There is a big difference between having a written complete quote and agreeing to the transaction and then having the dealership try to raise the price, lower the trade-in or change the financing in their favor and getting a phone estimate and having the final written quote be different. Yet buyers in both cases could claim they were lied to. There are two sides to every story, good or bad.

No, it says everything about automotive franchise laws. Every state has laws that prevent mfrs from interfering in how dealerships run their business. Ford has no say so in how dealers sell their vehicles unless they're doing something illegal. These laws were passed 50+ years ago to keep the mfrs from taking over and forcing smaller dealerships out of business. Today it just makes it almost impossible for Ford to do anything about a shady dealer. Many years ago Ford tried to reward dealers with great customer service with more money in the form of higher holdbacks on cars they sold versus other dealers. They weren't taking anything away from the other dealers, just giving some dealers more holdback as a reward. Dealers sued immediately and Ford lost. Ford also tried to set up an internet shopping website for used cars. Consumer picks out a used car in the area and Ford would arrange to send it to a local dealer for test drive and purchase - dealers still got all the sales. Dealers sued again and won. Their hands are literally tied by franchise laws when it comes to dealer behavior except in the most egregious cases.

Perhaps MainelySEL mistakenly thinks that TSBs imply that it's covered by warranty. It doesn't.

Is the hose connected to the condenser? It could also be leaking from the moonroof drain if you have one.

I just told you there is a TSB to clean it. What else were you looking for?

There is a TSB for cleaning it which may or may not help.

They were never really useful as fog lights anyway. I used them just to add a bit of extra illumination to the sides of the road - and for looks.

No mention of fog lamps in the order guide or the ford website and they're not in any official pictures. Could be available in other countries.

The shifter may not be registering that it's in Park. Or it's not registering the PATS key.

It's not about putting the blame on the consumer or letting the dealer off the hook. Dealers should not use these tactics. However....... Expecting all dealers (or other businesses) to behave honestly is naive. For the most part what they're doing is not illegal and there will always be shady dealers out there. Given that, consumers need to be aware of those tactics and take steps so they're not taken advantage of.

But putting MORE vehicles into the used market will drive residual values DOWN, not up. Ford makes short leases attractive because it helps them sell more new ones - period. They don't care about the used car market nor should they. Yes it may help the dealer network but dealers are not Ford. Huge difference there. You do understand that there is virtually no difference between leasing a new vehicle for 3 yrs and buying a new one and selling it after 3 years, right? In both cases you're paying the first 3 years depreciation on the vehicle. Only the terms of the financing is different. And sometimes you can get better factory subsidies on the lease. But you're still paying the first 3 yrs depreciation. You don't have to justify leasing - it's a great way to drive a new vehicle every 2-3 years and sometimes you can get screaming deals. I saw a brand new Lincoln MKZ lease (regular or hybrid) for $289/month for 39 months with $4K down.

I believe the $2500 is in addition to rebates and whatever deal you can make on your own. That makes it at least $1000 below A plan and that is a great deal if you want a new vehicle. Ford really is stuck between a rock and a hard place here. All they can do is provide a free loaner, offer to buy it back for FMV and offer a discount on a new vehicle, and they've done all 3. Not sure what else you could reasonably expect in such a situation.

I'm not arguing whether Ford should cover it under warranty - I think they should. All I'm saying is it's easy to get it fixed one way or the other so you're not being forced to keep driving it.

You do realize that your "fair market value" is likely a negative number at this point?

No - I would go get the darn thing replaced or repair it myself. Why would you keep driving it if you really believe it's a huge safety issue? I absolutely think Ford should extend the warranty. However, you can easily get it fixed now either under warranty or by paying out of pocket. It's purely a financial issue because people don't want to pay out of pocket if they're out of warranty.

Make sure the speed sensitive volume is off or at 0. Outside of that there isn't much you can do about it. I haven't noticed that problem in my Fusion but it may be different than the Edge.

Why would Ford care if the supply of used Edges is low?

There is virtually no room to negotiate on a Z plan sale. X plan, sure, but A and Z plan are right at dealer cost including the holdback. They do get a spiff check from Ford for each sale which I believe is a few hundred bucks so that's the only real dealer profit on A/Z plan sale. If they go with Z plan they can't charge less although they could make it up to you in other ways. And if they don't do Z plan then they don't get the spiff check. Some may quote a slightly lower price than Z plan without a PIN but then they can add an outrageous Doc fee to make up for it ($700+). In that case the end price is much higher than Z plan. Be very very wary of anyone claiming to do better than A or Z plan pricing.

Sounds like a half shaft/cv joint or maybe a bearing.

Kauffman Tire here in Ga also does free flat repair and they match prices so I try to use them for new tires. I once had a replacement tire I bought from tirerack because nobody stocked it locally. I had it sent to another tire store but they could not get the bead to seat on the wheel (didn't have a big enough cheater tank apparently. It was a Michelin Latitude HP on an Aviator and that was a really stiff sidewall. I took it to Kauffman and they had to use the old brake cleaner and match trick to get it on the wheel. They didn't charge me for that either. That's how you get new customers and keep the old ones.

You can sync to both vehicles - you just need to make sure one is turned off or out of range when you sync to the second vehicle. My wife's and my phone are both synced to both our vehicles with mine listed as favorite for my Fusion and hers is favorite for her escape. If we're both in the vehicle it defaults to the favorite. If only one of us is in the vehicle it connects to that one.