akirby

There are several mod threads for the PTU where folks have installed drain plugs and replaced the fluid after flushing out the old stuff. That seems to work.

The advice still stands and maybe it will help others avoid these problems.

You're probably SOL from a legal standpoint assuming the paperwork was done correctly including how the down payment was handled. You really need to take this as a learning experience so you don't let this happen again. We've all been through it to some degree or another. Don't EVER believe anything you're told. You can check the dealer's inventory online through ford.com. A few vehicles could already be sold or a few may not be on the lot yet but it will give you the maximum possible vehicles that the dealer could have on their lot, and you can find the ones that interest you based on color, price, features, models, etc. If they tell you they have 100 but you only see 50, cross them off your list. You should have known exactly what your loan payoff was. One call to the bank/credit union would give you that. Don't leave it up to the dealership to guess. They're correct that you owe the balance. It's no different than selling your car to a private party for less than you owe the bank - it's your loan and you have to pay it off. Had they shown the payoff as $12.5K and it was only $12K you would have gotten $500 back (unless they decided to just keep it and not tell you - depends on the paperwork). Bottom line - know your payoff. This is probably the most important lesson - NEVER negotiate payments on a financed purchase. Figure out how much the vehicle you want is going to cost. Look up the invoice pricing online, add the destination charge plus $500 then deduct any factory rebates. That's going to be your price give or take a few hundred bucks. Line up your own financing and determine the payment range. Negotiate the price of the vehicle and your trade-in value telling them you have your own financing or will be paying cash. Once you make the deal on the price, ask them for their financing offers and compare that with what you already have lined up. Sometimes there may be extra rebates to take the ford financing. Beware of non-Ford financing - the dealer usually gets kickbacks from those and therefore they may try to push higher rates. Finally - read the paperwork carefully. Whatever you sign in writing trumps anything they may have told you. Check the individual items, look for added fees. More importantly make sure the bottom line cost of the vehicle matches what you negotiated and that nothing else was added that you didn't request other than tax, tag and title fees.

You can't get fair market value with an un repaired fuel tank, and Ford can't sell it until they repair it so FMV seems appropriate to me. It's the same you would get if it was totaled.

According to Fordparts.com, yes. But the 2015 is on an entirely different platform (CD4) so that doesn't really make sense.

You should be able to replace the valve stem without affecting the tpms, but it could also be the bead not sealing against the wheel.

Do you have that phone set to Favorite? Does it not connect at all or does it connect to a different device?

If you filled it up at 0 miles to empty (and you didn't drive it much past that) then the most it should have held would have been around 16.5 gallons - maybe 17. But I don't see how you could get 20 in there unless it was leaking. Definitely suspcious, but I'd wait until the next tank (and try a different station).

I think it's virtually guaranteed that we'll see a mft compatible version of the sync 3 software. It will save Ford a lot of money in support costs going forward. But I'm sure it's at least a year away.

Actually it's the opposite - torque drives hp. hp = torque x rpm/5252. The difference is whether you get the max torque at lower or higher RPM. Peak torque at lower rpm provides more get up and go. Peak torque at higher rpm yields better passing power. Diesels build lots of torque but at lower rpm. The ecoboost engines are similar in that they reach peak torque more quickly.

The only way they could really lie about the trade-in value is if they gave you a trade-in apprasial, you accepted it and they changed it in the paperwork. If you're saying he quoted you a high trade-in and low payments but that changed when they started putting real numbers to paper, that's just normal advertising practices. Your car could be worth up to X and your payments could be as low as Y. You really need to know all of that before you go in includng available incentives and your own financing rate. Now if they actually changed the numbers after you agreed or added things you didn't agree on then that's a different story, although even then you're really responsible to catch that and not let it happen.

So what did they find with the black box?

What exactly did they lie about?

I answered this over on BOF a few minutes ago. I told him to check the reservoir cap. They may have pressure tested the system but probably not the cap and that could allow evaporation. And it's a lot cheaper to replace than the water pump.

Only if you want to hear it.....

How?

That makes more sense. When you let off the gas it unloads the driveshaft and the drivetrain components.

The warranty guide is available online and should be in your glovebox. www.motorcraftservice.com

Are you sure it's the engine and not the drivetrain?

Can you be more specific?

Did you try reclining the rear seats?

But does it actually work? All they did was replace the APIM and last time I checked that wasn't enough to activate navigation.

They never said the parts weren't interchangeable or that the software wasn't compatible - just that they weren't going to offer an upgrade. Yet. I can understand that from a support standpoint. Trying to fix bugs on new hardware is hard enough - add in all of the folks trying to use it on older hardware with bad APIMS could be a nightmare. Once it's out the door and they know it's stable they might offer an upgrade.

Sweet! Love the magnetic grey. Will probably end up with a mustang ragtop in that color.

The fixes for both issues are well known and since you're out of warranty just ask them to replace the shifter assembly and the door latch mechanism with the sensors in them.