akirby

Depends. Most repairs come with their own 12 month/12K mile warranty. But it probably wouldn't be covered under the original warranty unless you can prove it wasn't repaired properly while it was under warranty.

You really shouldn't have to use the brakes much at all. I forgot if you have select-shift - if so just keep it in the lowest gear possible. Otherwise, put it in L and cancel overdrive and you should be able to get away with minimal braking. If you do have to use them, try to get off of them frequently to let them cool. Hard brakes then coast is better than riding the brakes for several minutes at a time.

If your rotors are too hot in the mountains you're not driving properly. Use the engine braking to control speed going downhill. I'd go with the plain stoptech rotors and whatever pads you like.

Power Stop is a good brand so I wouldn't worry about quality - but it's probably overkill for street driving.

Aftermarket rotors can be cheaper than OEM and in some cases better, but you have to be careful especially with drilled rotors. They can crack. Personally I would get regular ones or slotted but not cross drilled. If you really want cross drilled get a good brand name. These won't help with stopping on the street - they'd just be decorative. Nothing difficult except for the rears that I assume have to be turned in due to the parking brake. You'll need a special tool. Don't get the cheap universal tool - get the dedicated Ford tool. I think NAPA has them for about $20. The hard part is pushing the piston in and turning at the same time. Other than that it's straight forward. Don't forget the lube for the back of the pads to reduce noise. If you're replacing the rotors you may have trouble getting the caliper holder off. You'll probably need a big socket or wrench and a breaker bar.

That sounds about right. We're about a hour away from the North GA mountains.

I know where WR is - I just wasn't sure where the gnat line was exactly. Dingo and I live just North of Atlanta in Forsyth County. The gnat line is somewhere around Macon - no gnats up here. I grew up in Douglas and forgot how bad the gnats were after I moved to Athens until I went back to visit.

No - aquatic as in water (ocean blue.......). I forgot - is Warner Robins above or below the gnat line?

Not many lately but this was a big problem with the early models. It took a year or two and several iterations to get a fix that worked reliably. Once fixed it should be ok going forward. The reason there were no questions asked is this was probably the 100th one they've done over the last 3 years.

That was my point. With TVs having builtin internet access and apps and cheap settop boxes along with the normal cable and satellite receivers plus cheap blu-ray players I just don't see the advantage to having a PC in your home theater. Personally I don't want the hassles of hardware and software upgrades, patches, reboots, backups, etc. I was just wondering if there was some use case I was missing somewhere.

Just curious - what is the benefit of a home theater PC over dedicated AV components?

Yes, that would have been helpful. Yes, that would also have been helpful. Even if you find it online, it's still coming from a dealer or Ford (Fordparts.com). If you can't find the part number online, you'll need to go to the dealer to get the part number and price, then shop around using the part number.

Is that a trick question?

Ignorance is bliss. Don't look for it!

Throttle body. Or bad gas since it's happened on two different vehicles.

There's the problem - it should have been a dead chicken in a paper bag and you have to circle counter-clockwise......... Definitely sounds like a loose connector or a flaky module, but see if you can do a MFT update first just for grins since it's free. You don't need the SD card.

This problem has existed on many ford SUVs and crossovers all the way back to the mid 90s. The seat tracks have to be replaced. Not sure if you can just replace the tracks or not.

Nobody's done it that I know of. Too complicated with too many parts (sensors, controllers, etc.)

Not with modern brake systems. It's more and more common for the rears to wear first.

That's low but certainly possible, especially on a Sport. I had to change my rear pads at 60K in a non-sport 08 but my wife drives it very carefully. No need to change the front pads at the same time - you just need to do both wheels at the same time (front or rear). The front pads on our 08 are still original at 60K.

That was for other earlier posters, not you. Yours was just illogical.

In most cases it's well deserved. And I say the same things to my friends in person - has nothing to do with anonymity. It has to do with people who don't bother to read the owner's manual and asking unnecessary questions or people making illogical statements.

You probably blew a fuse messing with the batter cables. Check all the fuses inside and under the hood.

Yep and yep.

I don't have to use ramps either. Wish the Focus and Fusion were that easy. Not only do you need ramps but you have to remove a large cover with 7 or 8 torx screws each time.