wlepse

Well there are a ton of good deals available right now at Discount Tire Direct but I wanted to give fellow Edge drivers a heads up. They currently have the Yokohama YK580 in a 245/60/18 for $121 each, plus there are rebates from Yokohama and DTD of $60 and $50 respectively but the kicker is they will double these rebates if you use their Visa card. I applied online and had instant approval. In the end a set of (4) shipped to me is $264! I can't find used tires with decent tread for that price. So I figure I would give you all a heads up.

Any update on wet weather performance? Looking like I will need a new set soon so any input would be appreciated.

Where did you buy it? Might there be some warranty or at least maybe they can work out a deal for you? Sucks to have this happen just before your little one arrives...last thing you need is another expense.

I don't doubt you had issues just sure it has nothing to do with hub centric rings. Here is an article discussing thishttp://thesquealingtire.com/hub-centric-rings-defined/

This is not true. Hub centric rings do absolutely nothing to take the load off your studs. It is likely you had a failure for one of two reasons. Either you did not torque the bolts to the correct spec or when tightening the lugs you didn't use the correct star pattern to make sure the wheel was centered around the hub. Hub centric rings are only to make it easier to mount the wheels, if you use proper technique you can mount a larger bore without issue. One the bolts are properly torqued the friction between the rim and the rotor are what keep the wheel from moving. So if the bolts are too loose yes you can have a problem because the friction isn't great enough and the wheel can move. Or if the wheel isn't centered you will have an imbalanced wheel and that can cause things to loosen. I recently ran a set of rims from a previous gen for about 15k miles with no issues. And if you don't believe me do a little research and just think about it. 90% of hub centric rings are plastic, typically metal are only used by people who track their cars and get the brakes really hot. So if most are made of plastic, do you really think it is reasonable to expect the plastic to keep the wheel from moving about the hubs center rather than a large steel bolt? But with that said I would not rely on this for the spacers. As I mentioned above if you properly torque a wheel with an oversized bore you can get it mounted vibration free and not have to worry about the studs. But I am not sure how easy it will be to get a spacer and a wheel perfectly centered. If you happen to have both out in the same direction you will have a problem. Hope that helps.

Slotted or drilled rotors won't do anything for braking performance unless your getting your pads so hot thepressure of the pad vaporizing exceeds the hydraulic pressure. This rarely happens in a normally driven street vehicle. The only car I ever experienced this on was a 90 Honda Accord going down a hill that was a 25% grade for a mile...by the bottom the rotors would feel warped but give the pads a few minutes to cool and vibration was gone. So this purely for show. With that said I did do this on my previous ride and was surprised with how much NVH increased. The Edge might not be as bad since the suspension is pretty compliant but don't be surprised if you feel the slots through the pedal and the wheel. Personally I wouldn't spend my money on it again for a street car/truck. Oh not to mention you will likely eat your pads faster too.

Awesome...so glad you are home safe

Sure hope so...though I guess not to many people in Florida are looking for a set of winter wheels.

Damn....and to think I paid for wheels w/o sensors. Great deal for someone local.

Root of the problem is terrible speach recognition...no reason my cheap ass android phone can have better than 95% success and mft is less than 30%. Often when I have to pick one of their options I just have to start over since they aren't right.

Seems like a good idea...after 3 years they still don't have a stable product even with stripping out features and never bringing others they said it would do. Article does say they might be able to install it on older mft but I won't hold my breathe. Also can't seem to find confirmation on when this will arrive...would like to know as a buddy at work was interested in an Explorer but doesn't want to roll the dice with the mft...if this will be on 15 models he might wait.

I think the switch was on the left side of center; it is black about 1 1/4" in diameter and sticks up about an inch. Here is a link to a line drawing: http://www.partscheap.com/2011-2014-Ford-Edge-Remote-Start-Hood-Switch-Kit-p/bt4z-19g366-a.htm the wavy bit is what sticks up.

PTU yes...tranny common so could be fwd too.

Has never been offered and unless they give it to us for a few weeks it might not ever happen...especially since I purposely drive to avoid situations when it is more likely to happen.

Tranny issues aren't that uncommon. Buddy I worked with had older gen that had the dreaded tranny clunk on occassion...dealer could never reproduce issue so it never got addressed. Then somewhere between 70-80k tranny crapped out...dealer and Ford wouldn't even work with him on cost even though he had service records showing problem. He did some research and found a bunch of people with similar failures/stories. I had slight clunking a while back and got the dealer to perform TSB which seemed to help for a while but now it is starting to happen again along with an occasional sensation of slipping...doesn't leave me with a warm and fuzzy feeling. Especially worrying that I can't reproduce it on call so I know the dealers will do nothing.

Wonder why mine is saying low pressure then when there are no sensors to tell the computer it is low. Maybe after X TPMS failure msgs it defaults to low pressure???

Does the spare have a sensor? Just wondering because I switched to another set of wheels without TPMS and I could swear the warning on the dash said TPMS failure, but lately it is saying low pressure. Guess I should pop the deck and double check.

Had the TSB performed on our Edge a while back and behavior is back, not sure if anyone else is in the same boat. Actually wonder if it was even done correctly in the first place. At the same time they performed fix for ticking on start up and forgot to put the hood switch back. Then tried to convince me I never had one and it wasn't related to remote start no longer working. So needless to say I think they do shoddy work and haven't gone back there.

They can but I don't think I have ever heard of those shutters failing let alone under the 36k coverage. So I wouldn't be too concerned.

Headlamp assembly has a shield that moves...so high and low are the same bulb. If you listen you can hear it actuate.

Damn...was hoping they changed or modified a part. They said they lubed mine but I am not sure if they lubed the buckle or the mount...not hold out much hope this will fix my issue.

All my dealers ever do is lube it...lasts just long enough to get home. Do you have a copy of the TSB? I am with you on the questioning future Ford purchases. We like the truck when everything works but many of these little things just get under your skin.

Have you checked the seat belt? Both of ours creak and dealers claim it is normal which is BS.

I can't talk to my MFT either. Once in a blue moon it will get it right but so rarely I only try to use when I have to. It is so bad that my 3yo ends up asking me why I am yelling at the car. Yet voice recognition on my phone for texts,nav etc works 97% of the time. Not sure what you are saying is entirely true. Typically when two companies work like this....they have a contract that not only states what the upfront costs are but also what the continued revenue stream would be. I would suspect it also covers what the MSRP for updates will be. That price ensures both parties get some profit. Now with MFT Ford may be controlling this price even more as the data needs to be configured to the software as we have seen with previous updates. So I think it is disingenuous to say they do not have a say in price.

I think a common problem has been the brake booster and many have had to replace it. Do a search and see if it matches up with your year/ build date.