wlepse

Well the caliper tool bent trying to push the rotor off so I got a hammer. I ended up using a 4lb hammer and hearing protection because I was banging so hard. Not sure if it was just coincidence or not but both sides finally broke free when I hit the bottom edge. Can't believe how rusted on these were with less than 40k on the clock. Hell my rotors on the Audi came off much easier with 60k on rears & 230k overall.

At least on my 2011 the front and rear jack points are marked on the side sills with arrows then there are a few notches in the sill so the jack stands can fit right in.

Thanks. Torx screw is out there was only one. I tried kicking the rotor a few times but it didn't budge. My old Integra had aflat head to hold the rear rotor on too but did have (2) jack bolts on the top hat this rotor has none. That was why I was starting to wonder if something else is holding it on. I did find a posting on an F150 forum where they mention using the caliper bracket to push the rotor off. Tomorrow morning I will see what I can get in there.

Some vehicles require pressure while turning so that is where the right/left hand thread would come in to play but based onwhat you are saying for this design all you need to do is turn it in whichever direction...probablt CW. Wasn't planning on adjusting the brake cable. But does it give you info on rotor removal? Like I mentioned above I have the torx off but nothing is moving. Normally I would just whack it but if I don't get it off I don't want to have a damaged rotor.

Figures...I bought the kit yesterday and figured I would do my brakes tonight but I can't get the rotor off. Did a search but seems most posts are for pre 2011 and mention backing the e brake off the inside of tophat. Mine has ebrake as part of caliper so that isn't it. Does anyone have a shop manual to confirm how these come off? I have the torx screw out but it almost looks like I may have to remove the axle nut so I can take a cup off that is holding rotor on. Ideas? I don't mind going caveman on it but don't want to assume a big hammer is the go to tool.

Difference is the temp is not controllable as it is in every other vehicle I have owned spanning domestics...european and japanese. In my old Integra the defroster got so hot it cracked my windshield since I had a stone chip. In the Edge the cabin temp drops as we keep it on so I have to switch back and forth.

That is the way I can remember doing other cars but found this tool: http://www.amazon.com/Ford-Mercury-Brake-Caliper-Tool/dp/B000HI0NCA/ref=pd_ybh_1 It specifically says some Ford models from 2005 on have left hand threads...maybe I should just buy a kit that includes both that way I am covered.

I recently did the fronts and took a quick look at the rears. While there is plenty of pad I just want to get it done since we have had bad luck with the stock pads. Anyway, I confirmed I need a two pin adaptor but I have seen both right and left handed version. Can anyone confirm which way these need to be turned to push them in? Also...what the hell is the part hanging off the caliper? Any other tips or recommendations for getting these done?

Yeah...just tired of arguing with them. At all but one dealer I actually felt bad for them. Having worked as an OEM (not cars) I had to deal with failures so I know what it is like when the company ties your hands. That is the impression I got from the three dealers I have tried but the one was definitely an ass.

Different dealers same answer

I was told the same thing...ours noticeably drops the cabin temp to the point we can't leave it on. Gave up on pushing this like many issues with Ford since it goes no where and isn't worth the frustration.

Figured it was possible since I have seen replacement covers on ebay. Just not sure of quality, if they will match stock color and if the outcome will be a balancing nightmare.

Not sure how you do it. After you recently lost a pup; bringing this little guy home and knowing you have to drop him off soon has got to be tough. I don't think I could do it without getting attached. Very cool and selfless thing you are doing. It has to be rewarding to know not only are you dog sitting but you are helping to socialize the pup so he has a better chance of success in his new home. Hope you enjoy him and your others and have a Merry Christmas!

We had a sound when turning in one direction only...I think it might have been right. What we heard was more of a hooting sound but there was TSB out to bend a heat shield out. Haven't heard it since...maybe that is worth a look. Just found TSB 11-9-4 if you can't find it PM me your email and I can send you a copy.

From some of the dealers I spoke to they said that Ford was cracking down on APIM replacements due to cost and that it often didn't fix the issue. What they said to me was unless the unit is completely dead or failed one of their tests they can't/won't replace...any extra testing they don't get paid for so they defer to Ford CS. If the customer pushes them hard enough they authorize the replacement and the dealer gets paid even if it doesn't fix the issues.

Well as much as I agree with you that the system sucks, is full of bugs and quirks; I wouldn't agree with you saying they don't have resolve. I agree that the system needs a lot of work and I am frustrated with their crutch of blaming other components but they have been trying to make it better. I think by now they should have been able to fix it but obviously that is not the case. You can push them to replace the APIM but don't hold your breath it will fix it. Some have had luck others like myself have not. My current system is ok...occasionally it does some quirky stuff but I can deal with it. My guess is they are reluctant to work on it only because they are not confident theyhave a fix.

Looks good but never thought of platidippin exhaust tips...do you get a burning smell from that? I know once I got a plastic bag stuck on my muffler and it stuck for a while. Just wondering if the plastidip has a higher temp rating.

Thank you for your selfless service and I hope and pray you and all your brothers and sisters return home safe and sound.

Free service manual would be real nice!

Kona...thanks so much for these wheels. It was a lot of driving but worth the effort. Got them on this morning and just in time for another round of messy stuff. Definitely feel better knowing the wife and little man have some better tread between them and the road. Thanks again and hope you guys enjoy the holidays and you continue to get stronger.

I used to own a modified Legacy GT...loved that thing. Made my commute more enjoyable and was fun in the snow. Ended up trading it in for the Edge because the car started acting funny after a CEL. Turns out there were known problems with banjo bolt fiters and cracked oil pick ups. Doesn't affect everyone but if I were looking at another I would be doing some research. Oh and this was my baby so OCI was 5k on full syn. Back seat on the LGT was great for car seats but can't imagine the Forrester would be ok. Don't let the materials fool you though...they have come a long way (still have a ways to go) but the materials hold up well. The LGT with 125k looked like new. And while many think they have a tinny feel...look at the crash results...they usually are among the top performers.

This sounds like BS to me...first I would be surprised if the Nav system is looking at two sources simultaneously for the same info. It should be relying on GPS info and in the event no signal is present it should fall back to speed of vehicle and calculate current position based on last know position. Second, many have said pulling the battery helped. Well pulling the battery doesn't reprogram your cluster but it does force a hard reboot of the MFT which has been a temporary fix for some when having quirky behavior. Sp if it doesn't reprogram the cluster the speed differential would still be there so the net effect is zero.

I am about to buy one and never have before. All of my previous cars were trouble free well past the warranty period, unfortunately that hasn't been the case with the Edge. Even if you take the MFT issues out; we had a TSB performed for engine ticking and rear end clunking. Now about a year later it seems some of the warning signs are coming back. Also I have complained that the power steering was making syrange noises...of course I was told this is normal but when I checked the oil the other day I noticed the PS fluid was low. Seems others have had their racks replaced so I suspect mine will need it to. Add in the fairly common BAMR issues and PSU failures and I feel like this is the one vehicle that will likely pay off my investment. But I do agree most of the time you are throwing your money away.

I would be careful about posting any info...unfortunately the law may be on his side and you may end up with harassment charges. Don't make a bad situation worse. Besides if he is crazy enough to do this to a dog who knows what else he is capable of.

I think you are missing what I was saying. The same drive worked fine with 3.2, now terrible with 3.5 with constant indexing, not being detected etc. But the OP had a different experience with 3.5; he had no issues with 3.5 and now does with 3.6.2 with the same drive. So exFat worked for him on 3.5 but not for me, so I think this is an MFT issue not an issue with the format of the drive.