candurin

Ooops. Sorry! Try this (it’s not from ford site, but, it checks out): https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzI_VmiH6K4wUGdNWU9ub04zSTA

Should be.

http://ivsu.binaries.ford.com/swparts/EA5T-14F497-AE_64702.ZIP

It can be done with FORScan. It’s under the BCM settings.

You can’t put Sync 3 in a gen 1 (I.e. 2010 or older). It would take an amazing level of customization that the platform couldn’t fully support even if you tried. Wnter your VIN number on syncmyride.com and it will give you the latest firmware for your SYNC version.

No. A10 maps can be used on any firmware version. If you want to update the firmware, then you can do that from the ford website (syncmyride.com). You’ll need a USB Drive for that.

Uh... A10?

I believe the OP means “compass”. You will only receive compass indications if the SD card is not in the media slot. MFT will show you the map/proper navigation once you insert an SD card (A10 being the most recent).

https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17035-adding-oem-remote-start-kits-parts-explained-detailed-2011/ Just FYI, that is not a factory kit.

It only erases your presets. Nothing else.

If you disconnect the battery, no. If you perform a master reset, yes.

Mac - Saved me money, yet again. Bumping this thread for visibility. Every so often my Check Engine Light would come on. I would simply clear the code with FORScan and go on my way (its been doing this for a year and never noticed any performance or other issues). It just happened again yesterday and I finally looked into it some more. The car was throwing code P0456 "EVAP System Leak Detected (very small leak)". Oddly enough, last week after getting a full tank of gas, I noticed that my car was a little sluggish to start. Then a few days ago, my car failed to remote start. Long story short, I just replaced the purge valve in less than 10 minutes thanks to the video. Hopefully that fixes my problems. I do have a vacuum tester somewhere in the attic/garage. I'll have a look at some point and see if my old valve holds vacuum. It was $28 total from Advanced Auto Parts right near our house. Not too shabby. Thanks again Mac!

The radio controls on your steering wheel will not work with an aftermarket head unit, unless, you use another aftermarket interface to keep the controls (PAC and Metra make them), here’s an example: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SWI-RC-Steering-Control-Interface/dp/B004HKBY8G/ Unfortunately, the PAC controller may not be compatible with bargain brand units (e.g boss audio). It may work, you would have to look into it. The mirror switch may be a fuse and the gas gauge can just be a hiccup related to your last fill. Pull the battery and let the car “electric system” reset.

Original Equipment (the radio that was installed from the factory).

Ah. Too be honest, I’m not entirely sure if a new hub is needed for Android. I suspect that it may not be! ive only researched CarPlay when I did my upgrade. You can always try without the hub first and then add it if need be. I would use the windows machine for formatting the drive.

16gb is fine. Just make sure your format it to fat 32. Then make sure you have the proper root directory structure. Meanjng, make sure the main files are directly unzipped (uncompressed) to the usb drive itself. it may take 10-15 for the system to recognize the update. Leave the car running (in a safe place) for 30-40 min and the update should run and complete itself. the reason for the new usb drive is that it needs to be CarPlay certified. Every manufacturer that offers the CarPlay upgrade must have a new USB hub installed. That’s not a ford requirement, rather an Apple one.

I wouldn’t delete it, just adjust the price accordingly. I think it’s reasonable for you to get a fair value for it, no need to take a complete loss. if you wanted to include the key fob, someone good at tinkering can open it and replace the key blank (I.e. refurbish it). Maybe come up with a price that includes the IKT?

He did say it came with the hood switch too, that adds another $20: https://accessories.ford.com/remote-start-hood-switch-kit.html Keep in mind, it is the OEM, 4 button key that was the bulk of the price in the eBay listing (you’ll need 5 button if you have power liftgate) you linked. If take away the key, they are only buying the antenna and hood switch. Worth about $50. An OEM key alone will run about $100.

Not sure if serious, but, it would go in the classifieds section. https://www.fordedgeforum.com/forum/25-classifieds/

You need to upgrade to at least firmware version 2.2. The most recent is 3.0. it doesn’t matter if you upgrade firmware first or install the new AA/CP USB hub first.

My pleasure. Glad I could help. Even more glad I was wrong about the navigation! its not hard to drop the IPC, if you want to add the GPS antenna for Nav.

You can browse here (might take a while!): https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/hardware-and-fasteners/hardware-and-fasteners-61564-1 or just grab a kit with a bit-o-everything: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MEHSLZT or here: https://www.lawsonproducts.com/Ford/Body-Hardware/Automotive/AT100030.lpc

Nah. It’s really the same program whether you have it or not. You just change a digit or two.

Syncmyride.com which redirects to https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/sync-my-ride.html (syncmyride is just easier to remember) it redirects to the ford owner site. Sign in (or register and enter car VIN) and navigate to the SYNC updates section. It will walk you through the update process, including updating your MFT.

I purchased this one and had no issues: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS been using it for 3 years. I do think you do NOT have navigation. If I recall the apim part number that starts with “J” is non nav. “H” is nav. i cannot confirm, so you may get lucky.