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Hi egayosso. :D Impossible to diagnose over the Internet. Could be anything from a loose battery connection or dead battery, to "the sky is the limit...". All we can do is take educated (or wild) guesses. And that would simply waste your time. Your 2007 Edge has a 3 year/36,00 miles New Car Warranty, and a 5 year/60,000 mile Powertrain Warranty. Along with those Warranties comes "Complementary Ford Roadside Assistance" (it is free). So call the Roadside Assistance number and have your car towed to your Ford Dealer. For what it is worth, that would be my advice. Let us know what the outcome is. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi 09Reedfire. :D It will not "void your Warranty". That would mean you would have absolutely no Warranty coverage for anything. What it will do (like any modification) is allow the automaker to deny any Warranty claims directly related to problems caused by (or possibly caused/linked to) the modification. For example (just a quick and basic example): If you install an aftermarket intake and then begin to have particular CEL codes (Check Engine Light), the Dealer/Ford would be within their rights to deny Warranty claims relating to those problems, or damages caused by those problems if they become aware of the modification. Of course, everything must be taken on a case by case basis, but you get the general idea. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi crazyrog. :D From the Edge Owners Manual: Rear Window Buffeting: When one or both of the rear windows are open, the vehicle may demonstrate a wind throb or buffeting noise. This noise can be alleviated by lowering a front window approximately two to three inches. This is a common problem on the more aerodynamics dependent cars being produced nowadays. Hope this helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi FLEdge. I have a pair of black Levi's that causes the same problem. They leave black dye transfer on my Light Stone leather seats (very light gray, almost white in color). They are the only pants that cause that problem for me. I use "Meguiar's Leather Cleaner and Conditioner" (a one step product), and it always takes out the dye transfer. The secret I have found is to patiently rub in the leather cleaner with my fingers and hand (I read this, so can not take credit for it). You need to work the Leather Cleaner in very well, and use plenty of cleaner. Rub it in as though you were gently massaging the seats. You will begin to see the dye transfer, dirt etc slowly dissolve. Then let it sit for a minute and gently buff the excess off with a soft, clean cloth. Essentially, any leather cleaning product will need a good amount of gentle hand massaging of the seats, followed by a gentle buffing. Nothing for leather will be a simple "wipe on, wipe off" type of application. No matter what you use, it takes patience and some gentle elbow grease. I also have "Tanners Preserve Leather Cleaner" and "Tanners Preserve Leather Conditioner" for tougher jobs. However, I have not needed to use it yet. Lexol and Mother's also make good automotive leather-care products. Hope this information helps. Good luck.

Hi igcitng. :D The "White Platinum Tri-Coat Metallic" (which ebaker is wondering about) is likely what you saw, but it is only a $495 option. The White Platinum Tri-Coat Metallic ($495 MSRP) was the only extra charge paint until Ford added "Red Candy Metallic Tint Clearcoat" for the 2010 models ($295 MSRP). If you saw a $600 charge for paint, the Dealer was using some creative accounting methods (wouldn't surprise me a bit though), or added something of their own to try and justify the $600 charge. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi mandoramon. :D You can download PDF copies of all manuals, guides and booklets here: LINK Owner Guides Click "Owner Guides" on the left hand side. Fill in the drop down boxes and click "Get Owner Guides". Then click on the link for the guide you need. Most likely the "Navigation System Supplement 1st Printing" or "DVD Entertainment System Supplement 1st Printing". As you will see, you can also download PDF copies of you Owners Manual, Warranty Guide, Scheduled Maintenance Guide, etc. etc.. And there was no factory back-up camera available on the 2007 models. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi ebaker. :D Essentially, a "Tri-coat" automotive finish has three different coats of paint applied at the factory. The first is a "basecoat" of color. Next a second coat of transparent color, called the "midcoat" is applied. Last a final "clearcoat" layer is applied. So you have a basecoat, midcoat and clearcoat. Standard paints finishes are two stage paints. They only have the color basecoat and the clearcoat. No midcoat. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi grease monkey. :D Yes, assuming the corrosion was caused by a defect in material or workmanship and you are within the 3 year/36,000 mile Warranty limits. Problems with the finish on the early chrome wheels has been a concern for others. If the corrosion was caused by some type of environmental fallout or improper care (e.g. caustic/acidic/abrasive cleaners), then Warranty coverage could be a problem. Take it to the Dealer for diagnosis and replacement. Let us know how you make out and good luck. :beerchug:

Hi anpbabaki. :D When you purchased your car, you were given a handful of paperwork and booklets. Along with the Owners Manual, you were also given a "Warranty Guide". In that Warranty Guide is a detailed explanation of what you need to do to to initiate "Lemon Law" procedures. Along with the advice you received from Consumer Affairs, I would strongly advise that you find the Warranty Guide and read it. If you do not follow the proper procedures, you can jeopardize some of your rights. If you can not find your copy of the Warranty Guide, you can download a PDF version here: LINK: Warranty Guide Fill in the drop down boxes, and click "Submit". Then click on "Warranty Guides". Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi dap1. :D Can't give you a component name. And keep in mind that you do not need to identify the piece for the Service Department, you only need to show/report the damage. Therefore, what I would highly recommend is while you are waiting for someone here to answer, you should bring your Edge back immediately (or as soon as possible), and show the Dealership the damage. In this way there is less chance that they can attempt to claim it happened after you purchased. My guess? Looks as though someone may have tried to improperly jack the car up (maybe using a floor jack) and caught that piece, instead of a solid area. Either way, the longer you wait to report the damage, the less chance of getting it repaired under the "Certified Used' Warranty/Guarantee. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi grglandr. :D Here are two online Ford Parts Retailers: LINK: Team Ford Parts Online LINK: Direct Ford Parts Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi lucky. :D Assuming she was not accidentally driving with the parking brake on, or with her left foot on the brake pedal, it sounds like it could possibly be a "hung up" or "dragging" brake caliper. However, Internet diagnosis is spotty at best. You should bring the Edge in ASAP for diagnosis and repair. Unless you have gone over the mileage limit, it should still be covered under the New Car Bumper to Bumper Warranty (3 years/36,000 miles). It should not be driven otherwise. Let us know the outcome. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Miss Crawford. :D Concerning the brake "problem". Completely normal. When your sits for several days, "surface rust" will begin to form on the brake rotors. The first few times you begin to move and use the brakes after that, the brake pads will wear off that surface rust and then you will hear no more sounds (as you noticed). This is completely normal with disc brakes. In fact, in rainy or humid conditions the surface rust can sometimes form overnight. Concerning the moonroof. Not 100% sure what you mean by a "start/pause/start thing". But either way, if it does it again, you should bring it in for service. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi MJ. :D You are welcome and if I find any I will post back. What I can tell you is this: If you want the most accurate real world figures, look for tests done by Motor Trend, Car and Drive, Automobile, or other car enthusiast magazines. To their credit, Ford is know for providing acceleration figures that underestimate the cars performance ability. In other words, if Ford gives an Edge Sport AWD 0-60 figure of 8.0 seconds, you can be sure that the true, real world figure will generally be faster than what Ford states. Just a bit of an FYI for comparison purposes. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi gobucks. :D Your Edge should still be under the Bumper to Bumper Warranty (3 years/36,000). Take it in for service, then you will know what Ford will or will not do for it. Let us know the outcome. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi gobucks. :D No, it is not poor construction or design. However, the noises you are hearing could be caused by a multitude fo problems (a few of which igcitng mentioned). Unfortunately, only someone who can examine the vehicle hands-on can diagnose the problem properly. Your Edge should still be under the New Car Bumper to Bumper Warranty (3 years/36,000 miles), so make an appointment for a service visit. Let us know what they find out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi mj. :D I took a quick look and could not find acceleration times for the AWD Edge Sport. However, just to back up Edmunds, I can tell you that Motor Trend tested the FWD Edge Sport and logged 0-60 times of 7.3 seconds. Unfortunately, the heavy 22" wheels hurt acceleration, as Motor Trend points out. You can assume that the AWD version would be approximately .5 seconds or so slower. So figure in the 7.8-8.0 second range. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi success. :D It is surface rust on the face of the brake rotors and is completely normal. It will disappear once you drive and apply the brakes a few times. Then, most times the car sits still for a day or so, you will see it appear again. And the first time you apply the brakes two or three times it will be rubbed off again. Again, it is normal and nothing to worry about. If you should doubt this information, just check with your Dealers Service Department. Enjoy your new Edge. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi walks. :D Short answer: Yes, the "Employee Price" includes all Factory installed optional equipment (but not Dealer added optional equipment). Longer answer: The "Ford Employee Price" is a final bottom line price that includes all factory equipment on a vehicle, standard and optional. It is calculated using a formula based off of the total Factory Invoice Price of a vehicle. It does not include Tax, Title, Registration, any mandatory Fees or Dealer added equipment/Extended Service Plan. See the fine print of the Incentive offer for any other exclusions. I can not help you concerning your Ford.ca website question. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi 500 h.o.. :D Then we agree. I always tell people to take Internet advice with a grain of salt (including mine), and to seek a "known" professionals advice (as I did in my replies to latintiger), since we do not know the person/people behind the Internet advice. So, other than how the dry climate affects the duct work of an automotive A/C system in Arizona, we pretty much agree on things. It certainly may be a "design issue". I am not debating that point. But bottom line, even if it is a "design issue", it is a "design issue" that is resulting in moisture being retained by the system. Retained moisture is likely what is causing the odor problem (it almost always is when dealing with odor problems in an automotive A/C system). And you debating me over wording is not going to get the cause diagnosed. Take it to your "personal mechanic" or the Dealership, have it looked at and please let us know the diagnosis and repair procedure. I simply gave latintiger some Internet opinions as to what could possibly be causing the odor problem, and then recommended having his/her Edge diagnosed and repaired under Warranty by a professional (as you state you will probably eventually do). Any other Internet diagnosis by any of us, including you/me, is strictly speculation. If latintiger wishes instead to take it to a "personal mechanic", that is their prerogative. I don't have to tell him/her to do that. And with all due respect, I would like to politely remind you that I was answering a question that latintiger asked when you interjected with your opinion (directly quoting my reply when you did so) that living in "dry Arizona" would preclude moisture being a problem in your A/C system (although latintiger is the individual asking for help, not you). I simply responded with a fact. And that fact is that living in a dry climate will not help one bit if there is a defect in the A/C system causing it to retain moisture. Whether a "design defect", a blocked drainage tube, or any other cause, something is in the A/C ventilation system causing an odor problem. And that something is almost always moisture, whatever the cause. Other than providing that widely known information, I don't recall ever asking you to trust my opinion unwaveringly. Nevertheless, we are here to try and help others and share experiences. But it is funny, sometimes we are "damned if we do and damned if we don't". If we tell someone to go to the Dealership Service Department (while still under Warranty) or a private Professional Automotive Mechanic for diagnosis/repair instead of taking advice from strangers on the Internet, some people complain about that advice. And if we instead give our opinion (Internet advice) as to what a problem may be caused by, others complain about that advice. I played it safe and did both, and what a surprise, still "damned if I did". In the end, I honestly do not see what value this conversation is adding to the situation latintiger is having. So again, whatever method you decide to try, be it a "personal mechanic", Dealership Service Department, etc., I certainly hope you find the source of your A/C odor problem. Be sure to let us know what the final outcome is, as that information may assist others. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi cobra. :D It is often hard to tell from pictures, but it does look like corrosion in some of the photos you provided. Just curious, what was their reasoning for saying there was "nothing they could do for her"? It can only be a design defect, a defect in material/workmanship or damage caused by road debris/contact. Did they claim it was damage caused by road debris/contact? Because if they are not claiming that, then it is a design defect and or a defect in material/workmanship and covered under Warranty. If your current Dealer will not do anything to help, try another Dealership. You are not required to have service done at the Dealership where you purchased. If you still get no satisfaction, then call Ford Customer Relations and request that your car be looked at by the Regional Service Representative from Ford. Let us know what happens. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi 500 h.o.. :D Living in "dry Arizona" would have no affect on what goes on in the A/C ducts, where condensation will build up and not dry out if a drain line is clogged or other problem exists (since it is dark and damp). Given the proper (or improper) conditions, you could wind up with an odor problem if you lived in Death Valley. Moisture/mold in the system is only one of several possibilities that can lead to an odor problem. And that moisture/mold can be caused by any of a series of problems/defects and in any environment (even Arizona). However, since none of us can carry out a truly accurate diagnosis over the Internet, a trip to the Dealer for diagnosis and Warranty service would be in order for your car. If you have not already done so, make a service appointment and let your Warranty take care of the problem. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi latintiger. :D Sorry, my reply must have been a bit confusing. Let me try again. The "smell" is usually caused by residual moisture deep in the HVAC duct system. The ducts can become dark, wet places, and that can lead to a smell/mold condition. This can be caused by any of many vasriables, such as a clogged drainage tube in the system, leaves or other debris clogging the inlet grills by the cowl, etc etc. The clogged drain tube or other problems can cause residual moisture to collect in the system, causing a smell/mold problem. Just because you park indoors and do not have leaves or other debris in in the cowl area does not eliminate the other possibilities. One way to see if you have residual moisture in the system is to turn off the A/C and run the system on vent for several minutes before shutting off the car. This will help to dry up any residual moisture caused by A/C condensation. If this method does work, then it is likely a residual moisture problem causing the smell/mold condition. Another is to use any of the A/C disinfectant and deodorant sprays that are available at auto parts stores. You follow the directions, usually spraying it in the cowl air inlet while running the HVAC system. The spray will then run through the duct work and helps to minimize the problem. But it is a temporary solution and will need to be periodically repeated. In the end however (as you guessed), your best bet is to bring your car in for diagnosis and service, especially if it is still under Warranty. In this way, if there is a clogged drain tube or other HVAC system defect, it can be properly diagnosed and repaired. Let us know the outcome. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi latintiger. :D It is simply moisture/stale air. Not much you can do. Keep the exterior air inlets (in the cowl area) clear of leaves and other debris. Avoid parking under trees if possible to minimize such debris falling on your car. You can run an A/C deodorizing spray through the cowl inlets once in a while. It also helps to run the HVAC system on the vent setting for a few minutes before turning off the car. This will help to dry out the system and minimize the moisture problem. But of course, this is not always convenient. Wouldn't hurt to mention it to the Service Department next time you have your car in for a visit. Good luck. :beerchug:

Ahhh...Pronoun trouble! I was sleepy (attended a Sunday wedding :party: ) and akirby is correct. It is the FDAF (Ford Dealers Advertising Fund) fee that is not included (not Destination or Delivery). And since the FDAF varies according to several criteria, it can be as low as approximately $250 and as high as approximately $500. Since no single figure will hit the nail on the head, this is why you can only get a ballpark figure from sites such as Edmunds and KBB. Good luck. :beerchug: