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From my understanding, it is the electrical contacts inside the controller that get dirty and stop functioning properly, not unlike the door latches. So you COULD try cleaning and reusing, but YMMV ...

Ruh-Roh. Hope this "volunteer" work did not get you into any trouble!

A leak from the case halves? Definitely not normal. Could be case porosity or simply a poor gasket. You have verified after cleaning up the area that this is indeed where the leak is coming from?

Welcome to the community, Tom, glad to have ya join us! Nice rides, BTW

Do you know if the wiring/logic for the BAMR goes through the SJB also, enigma?

Probably the drip hose that allows condensation from the evaporator core to exit the vehicle? http://www.techchoiceparts.com/evaporator-core

Not sure on the rear. The usual jack/lift points are just forward of the rear wheels. Front wheels chock-blocked of course.

Good luck, the Edge should be running like a top after the plug/PCV change!

Is that 40W or 40W equivalent?

That'd be really good if the problem is limited to the spark plugs, caught it just in time. Excessive resistance from spark plug wear = consequences for PCM & coils.

Poring through the manuals, looking at TStat replacement, came across this blurb: NOTICE: Motorcraft® Specialty Green Engine Coolant is very sensitive to light. Do NOT allow this product to be exposed to ANY LIGHT for more than a day or two. Extended light exposure causes this product to degrade. What the heck? So heat is not a problem, but light is? How you like 'em apples!!!

Upper set only. The manifold you take off for spark plug/PCV valve replacement is the upper manifold. I got Victor Reinz MS19557 off EBay, IIRC. Victor Reinz is one of the top gasket makers IMHO, they make some really good stuff. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2652682&jsn=__GIX__3__ Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 7T4Z9H486DA RockAuto has a nice price on it at $4.61 FelPro part # MS 97120 if you want that.

The Novus kit is usually the go to for plastic, but you can try the other products I mentioned above.

Only gaskets you need will be the manifold gaskets, FelPro or Motorcraft should work fine. They say you can reuse, but the gaskets are so cheap ...

Motorcraft for the win! SP411's for 2007-10. Gap should be tested with a feeler gauge, should be 0.054-0.057. Be careful NOT to touch the center electrode if adjusting the ground strap. Do not adjust the ground strap back & forth, that will weaken it.

Well done Hope this will be the last you see of the nasty vent leak issue. Just wish you could have found a way to include the king of jury rigging - duct tape

Dan at DriveBright.com/DTBL offers HID kits for the Edge, and has an install video up on YT as well. It is very DIY, does appear to require a bit of time and patience. http://drivebright.com/home/shop/hid-headlight-replacement-kit-new/

The dampers are a feature on the 2011+. They are not OEM on the 2007-10. If your brakes are Ford/Motorcraft parts, consider going aftermarket to get rid of this problem. I have the Power Stop kit on mine, macbwt had installed the AutoZone hicarbon parts on his, IIRC. If you have AWD, might also be an issue similar to that on the Escape, but the RDU could also need servicing/replacement.

The scratch might buff out with a fine/finishing polish like Meguiars 205 + a microfiber cloth, or maybe even Plastx. Not sure what the grille material is but usually the same products you use for the paint can work on plastics also when hand-rubbed.

macbwt has traveled long and far with his Edge(s), and has had many opportunities to DIY repairs along the way. You can tag along and watch the videos he has made, available directly at his YouTube channel here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJb7karK2nhyA7G1BW6xESg/videos Don't forget the commentary! You can read it here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/18170-double-edged/ How to find his content on this forum: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=user_activity&search_app=forums&mid=28743&sid=9c4957ff017cbd74afa9faab45cdf00b&search_app_filters[forums][searchInKey]=&userMode=title time to add his FB and MeWe pages: https://www.facebook.com/groups/MACTFORDEDGE/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/122296998313817 https://mewe.com/group/5fbc030eedc4177fe93d6585 https://mewe.com/join/mactgarage and of course his website: https://www.mactgarage.com/

Good excuse to clean these parts out for proper drainage and air flow!

Depends on how uneven the rotors are, but without brakes applied, shouldn't be evident except at higher speeds. Even then, nothing compared to the vibrations with brakes applied. Assuming the diagnostics provided to you are spot-on of course.