enigma-2

It's issued to the headlight comtrol module and can be triggered by the the left or right swiveling motor or when the car lost communication with the headlight communication module. Probably triggered by a random network interruption. That it went away means it was probably momentary.

Not certain about this, but isn't it on the sticker on the underside of the hood?

Looking at your results, it seems that your fuel trims are a wee off. (Could be the way your car responds however.) Still, I'm kind of wondering if there isn't a small vacuum leak going on, on the evap purge line. (?)

Glad you found the fix. Personally I wouldn't have used aftermarket, but maybe its good enough. What brand did you go with? Always good to know if aftermarket works (and holds up.)

NHTSA Recall ID Number : 25T001 Synopsis : Pirelli Tire, LLC (Pirelli) is recalling certain P7 Cinturato tires, size 245/45R18 100 Y. The tires were incorrectly marked with the wrong maximum inflation pressure and may not meet the strength requirements for the stated pressure. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 139, "New Pneumatic Radial Tires for Light Vehicles." Tires with insufficient strength may fail, increasing the risk of a crash. Dealers will replace the tires, free of charge. Owner notification letters are expected to be mailed March 17, 2025. Owners may contact Pirelli customer service at 1-800-622-2390.

Winder if anyone has ever tried adhesive backed velcro (to prevent slipping?)

That part number fit 2007-2014 Ford Edge and aftermarket costs under $300 online. OEM dealer price is $962.91 plus say $50-70 shipping. ( https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Ford__Edge/Drive-Shaft/51620461/DT4Z4R602A.html ) So they are quoting approx $1700 labor. At $100/hr, their saying its going to take them 16-17 hours to replace. Uh, no.

A little late, but just in case you didn't find an answer elsewhere. There is an AWD indicator on the instrument cluster; its icon is a wrench, and indicates that there's a problem with the power train or AWD system. Its a fault indicator, & it only illuminates when there's a problem (such as the AWD has been overworked, is overheated and is off until it cools.)

1. I purchased extended warranties until I reached 125,000 miles. So their not being honest. One of the requirements is the car must be inspected and everything they find must be repaired. (Start with an even slate.) 2. You don't have to buy the warranty at your dealer. ANY dealer can sell you the Ford warranty and ALL Ford dealership will honor. I went to Levittown Ford (online) got my quote, then made an appointment with my dealers financial manager. We went through his sales pitch, I chose the best, he gave me his price, I showed him the quote that I printed out and said "here's a quote from another Lincoln dealer, will you match." He read the printout and instantly said yes. Then I said "what else can you do?" He asked what I meant and I told him I wanted a $0 deductible. He ran some numbers and said he'd give me this if I had all my service done at their dealership. We had a deal. Spark plugs can stick, but a professional mechanic should know how to remove. Friend i used to have was a mechanic and I remember he used to use an impact wrench on stubborn plugs. (Hell, I've seen him get out broken off exhaust manifold studs that were welded to the block.) Mention that if they can service your car, perhaps you should try another Ford dealer. ... That should do it.

What were the transmission codes? (Do you hot rod the car, or tow heavy boat?)

My guess is the spray nozzle at rear could be nearly blocked. When you blew air through rear hoses and fluid came out, air pressure higher than rear washer pump can deliver. I'd try this. Have someone else run the rear washer while you stand back there and see if any drops come out.

Vehicle battery getting weak can cause this. Have the battery's CCAs rating tested (not just a voltage test.)

There may be a couple of other checks that come to mind. Gas cap gasket or cap not clicked on. Wiring to the purge valve. Corrosion in the connector, Micky chewing on wires ..

1. Can you run radio Diagnostics? • Simultaneously press and hold the on/off button and the seek down button until the bezel diagnostics mode is entered. The Speaker Walk-Around Test begins and the display indicates each speaker as it is tested. Once the Speaker Walk-Around Test is complete, the following menus are available: ▪︎APIM Diagnostics ▪︎AHU Diagnostics (refers to the ACM) ▪︎ICP Diagnostics (refers to the radio control panel) ▪︎ECG Diagnostics (refers to the GWM) ▪︎Testing Settings menu ▪︎SiriusXM Diagnostics menu 2. Tried a master reset? • Press and hold the Seek up and the audio unit Power buttons simultaneously until the screen goes black. Wait for the system reset to complete.

Discontinued. Years ago, JC Whitney offered an inexpensive kit intended to add a heated grid to your back window. It consisted of thin wires which were attached to the glass with an adhesive vinyl sheet, wiring and a switch. My 'guess' is the heated strip across the blade resting location, wasn't all that effective. (Deicer works faster, just doesn't work when remote started.) Thought Ford was working on developing a heated washer fluid. (Seen where someone took the washer feed hose, extended it and and wrapped it around the heater return hose. When the fluid flowed, it was warmed by the heater hose.)

As fuses and bulbs good, common areas include headlight switch or body control module. Need to pull codes to narrow down failure.

What year?

Because it only occurs at speed, and is now manifesting at lower speed makes me think that it is directly related to a moving part. First thing that comes to mind is the brakes. Specifically a dust shield is being bent over due to wind flow. Or one of the pads is worn, causing the low pad warning tab to just touch causing a metal-to-metal squeak.

Ever figure this out?

Still looking? (Different years)

Pulled this off web AI on the subject If your FordPass app isn't displaying the Modem ESN in the settings, it likely means your vehicle's connectivity settings aren't activated, the modem might be faulty, or there could be a software issue; check your vehicle's SYNC screen settings to ensure connectivity is turned on, try restarting your vehicle, and if the issue persists, contact your Ford dealer to check for any software updates or potential modem issues;. Here are a few steps to troubleshoot: Check Vehicle Settings: Access your vehicle's SYNC screen. Navigate to "Settings" > "Vehicle". Verify that "FordPass Connect" or "Connectivity Settings" are enabled. Restart Vehicle: Turn off your vehicle completely. Wait a few minutes. Restart the vehicle and check the FordPass app again. Check for Software Updates: Access the SYNC screen settings. Look for a software update option and apply any available updates. Contact Ford Dealer: If the issue persists, reach out to your local Ford dealer. They can diagnose the problem further, potentially checking for a faulty modem or performing a software reset. Key points to remember: ESN stands for Electronic Serial Number: which uniquely identifies your vehicle's modem. If you can't find the ESN on your SYNC screen, it might indicate that the modem isn't activated or there's a connectivity issue. Some Ford vehicles require you to explicitly activate the FordPass Connect feature in your vehicle settings before it will appear in the FordPass app.

I agree, those tire leggins look worthless.

Look at these https://www.ebay.com/itm/203043051075?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=DzWCZ5ZUSGi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Your best bet is to stop by your local Ford dealer parts dept. Baring that, goto https://parts.ford.com Enter your VIN and location and do a search for parking aid sensor. Should bring up a diagram showing all of the parts related to the installation. Don't be surprised to learn that each sensor has its own retainer due to the shape of the bumper cover.

I've used Silverstar Ultras in the past. Very white and bright. Not really cheap however. Think the 6012's list for around $60. Halogen.