enigma-2

On 09 MKX the drivers side did this. Tried carefully reinstalling it and left it closed exposed to the hot sun to retake its shape. Worked for a while, but all it took is one close to again bend out of shape. Eventually bit the bullet and bought a replacment. Comes as a kit with the weather shield bellows and steel rods. As you found, expensive as hell, but there's no other choice if you want to restore OEM performance. Purchase appears to be as a weather seal. Replacement has been perfect for several years now. Wrote a description of the replacement here:

Hi bwguardian, read through this previous discussion where a fellow forum member did this on a 2008.

Engine needs a slight amount of knock to determine where the rich/lean setting is. Without knock, ecm defaults to a rich setting to protect the engine. MPG falls as well. 91 octane blocks knock and knock sensors can't send signal.

Get a 2nd opinion from a different dealer. That quote smells like week old fish to me. Like they don't know what the real problem is, and quoted throwing a parts cannon at it. If the AWD coupling is locked up, it's either thr coupling unit or the module itself.

This issue has been seen in sync 3 as well. Seems to be a timing issue upon start up. Try removing the USB stick, then after starting, turn off the radio, waith for the various modules to connect (wait at least a minute), then turn on the audio then plug in the USB stick.

Water pump issues are generally thought to be the result of poor maintenance. Change your oil on schedule (or sooner) and coolant and should go a long, long time. All season for year around. Winter tires aren't recommended on hot asphalt. Noisy too. Besides, streets got plowed soon enough and you'll be driving an AWD. I run all season, have AWD and never been stuck. Biggest problem is it's a much heavier car than a stang and will slide a lotttttt further in snow or ice. (First time you drive on icy streets, wear a diper). Doesn't take long to get the hang of it. If you modify the exhaust, may not be able to get extended warranty (if that would ever be considered). 2013 is one of the years that are listed as having problems. 2014 is a much better year. As for the battery, been discussed here before. Don't remember what the conclusion was, think it was ok. Do a search in the forum.

If it were me, I'd look for a vacuum leak. (Air leaking in after the maf and ecm trying to compensate with more fuel). Possible a vac hose isn't on tight enough or cracked when changing stuff?

I'm planning on a preventive maintenance water pump change out somewhere between 175k and 200k. My dealer drops the A-Frame as it's easier. (Easier means they charge more, lol) Believe it's also a good time to pop in new plugs as well. (Wonder if r&r the the PVC is worth considering as well.)

Check for corroded battery terminals. Then check CCA rating of battery (not just voltage).

Great news. But admit it, you're gonna miss those all-day trips to the garage. lol

My dealer took mine off during service and forgot to put it back on. I went back when i discovered it misding but they had already thrown it away. Hah! I made them order another and a week later they called to replace it. On them!

Well, the talk over there is the aluminum pan doesn't fit, seems I read some time back that someone tried it. Maybe there's a difference between the truck version and the CUV version? If I were you, I'd wait to find someone who's actually tried the install. I don't remember anyone successfully doing it, but I haven't really followed the subject too carefully. Perhaps if you talked with the local Ford Garage Service Manager? These guys are really knowledgeable on the basic problems and if anyone has done this, they may know about it. Never hurts to stop by and ask, I've done it probably too many times; got a reputation for questions, questions, questions. But I've found that my local SM loves to answer questions, including going to the area rep and even Ford Engineering, for answers. He has so much knowledge and no one ever asks him what he thinks. Another way to go, is to make certain the Ebay seller specifically states In the listing, that it will fit your exact engine (again, in writing) & that you can return it, if it fails to fit. I wish the best for you, i hate oil leaks, but it seams to me, that a good due job, on the existing plastic pan, is what's really required. If it was my car, I'd have the Lincoln Garage do the job and get a warranty on it. But for the cost of a 12 hour repair, it would have to be a lifetime warranty !!!

Man was I out of it. Looked up AAA for my area and it showed $150/hr. What the sam hell? I'm so used to "got a warranty" and never pay, I wasn't paying attention. (saving face) "I was quoting pre-Covid" prices. (cough, cough). Also on the website "changing a fuse, $10 - $50. A FUSE! Damn. I'm coming out of retirement.

If it's not any trouble, any chance you could look in the IDS to see how to activate a rear camera in a 2009 MKX? They designed the car to use a camera, but never offered it as an option in US cars (just in Japanese cars). Like to add one.

When we go swimming at the lake, I lock my wallet and keys in the car. Use the buttons to access the door and rear hatch when returning. Plus, I've accidentally locked my keys in the car. Lock pad is a life saver. Annnnnnnnd, it's fun to play with. ?

12 hours labor!!!! Let's see, at $80/hr that's ....... ridiculous. Should make this a sticky for future members.

I read over in the 150 forum that the aluminum pan does NOT fit the 2.7 ecoboost engine. From everything I've read, it's the quality of the aftermarket silicon gasket job that in question. Apparently the trick is to get both mating surfaces spotless. No oil. Means spraying with brake clean then wiping down with clean towels. Then leave everything sit for an extended period for cure.

Passenger seat power backrest went backwards but not forward. (Ever notice how much your wife whine about riding in a near prone position? Think it ess the end of all life on earth). Isolated to switch. Jiggle, wriggle and rock. Sometime worked, most times not. Changed switch today. Should just say it was a breeze, but in truth you'd think I could have dropped the sub-frame easier. Not that it's hard, just 2-10T and remove the curved trim. And it's one piece, curved around both the front and back of the seat. Can't pull it forward because it's wrapped around the back, can't release the center because it has to be pushed forward to release. Service manual had a paragraph on how to remove this (*&^%%$@!) trim piece. Pull back but not too hard, twist, list, get up and run around car twice ..... And then there was the connector from hell. Just push in on the tab and pull connector out. Became a test of manhood. It won rounds 1-6. I kicked its assets on the 7th. Blood everywhere but hey, the more you bleed in peace, the less ... . Works great now. All quiet on the westssenger front. Peace, love, oem

If you do preventive maintenance on regular basis, coolant and oil changes, should be sufficient to protect water pump. One tech said in YouTube video that pumps fail early from bad maintenance.

Evaporator or heater core? The evaporator is part of the a/c system. Water on the drivers floorwell is usually a clogged up hvac drain. If this occurs after a rain or car wash, leaking body joints. If you smell coolant, could be steam venting, or leaking in engine comp. If smell in cabin. I'd suspect leak in heater core or water hoses.

Be certain to disconnect the battery. I'm in the process of changing out a 10-way seat switch (one function is touchy). One would expect to remove the old switch, unplug it, then install the new one. Surprisingly, the service manual requires the SRS to be disabled before the switch is removed. Then the engine be turned to on to verify the warning light is on, the off and the switch can then be removed. Don't know how the seat restraint system is wired to the seat switch, but .....

I'll mirror dabangsta's comments. This is Ford's official position on octane. Your vehicle is designed to operate on regular unleaded gasoline with a minimum pump (R+M)/2 octane rating of 87. Some fuel stations, particularly those in high altitude areas, offer fuels posted as regular unleaded gasoline with an octane rating below 87. The use of these fuels could result in engine damage that will not be covered by the vehicle warranty. For best overall vehicle and engine performance, premium fuel with an octane rating of 91 or higher is recommended. The performance gained by using premium fuel is most noticeable in hot weather as well as other conditions, for example when towing a trailer. Do not be concerned if the engine sometimes knocks lightly. However, if the engine knocks heavily while using fuel with the recommended octane rating, contact an authorized dealer to prevent any engine damage. Actually knocking is necessary for the knock sensor to determine where the max lean condition exists. The ECM/PMC uses the knock sensor readout as one parameter in setting the timing, so the engine can run as lean as possible. (Without causing damage). According to Ford, if the highest octane is used, the engine doesn't knock and the ECM/PMC sets the fuel to run richer as a safety feature. Performance and mpg will suffer very slightly. (You can't get better milage nor performance inasmuch as it's exactly the same gas, same hydrocarbons. The anti-knock is added to delay detonation. It takes up a very slight volume from the gas and a tiny amount more gas is needed for the same power.)

I have these on my 09 MKX, OEM. Have had three sets of new tires mounted + tires repaired. No problems with plastic covers. Also had new Motorcraft TPMS sensors installed on all four wheels + one reinstalled a second time after I bought a new wheel when a damn curb jumped up and ran out in front of my car. These plastic covers can be removed fairly easily, takes a couple of minutes. WWWPerfA posted one of his videos, here's another on an easy way to remove, and there's a second followup on painting the aluminum rims: I *think* the plastic replacement covers are no longer sold. At least I don't have a URL for the site. When I needed a new wheel, my dealer priced it out, forget the price, think it was in the $600 range. Talked to the service manager and ended up getting it for in the $300's. OEM as far as I know. Huge mark ups on these rims, ask dealer to get at his discount. Never hurts to ask.

Looks like excellent quality.

I'm not familiar with your sync version, but I've had similar problems in the past with connectivity. The most common problem is your wireless router in the house is not discoverable. (Isn't broadcasting it's presence). If this is the case, try making the router discoverable long enough to establish a connection. Then you can turn off broadcasting again. The 2nd possible cause is the wireless signal is too weak to make a good connection. You should be able to get a signal out around 150 ft, but that can be attenuated due to building features and materials. I can connect in my garage, but get a much stronger signal in my driveway.