enigma-2

What grade of oil are you using? Any chance it's too thin?

Experienced Ford diagnostic technician, who works at a Ford service center, posted it.

To reset the battery monitor on any Ford product: 1. Make sure all windows & doors are closed. 2. Turn ignition switch to on (don't start car). Wait 10 seconds. 3. Flash highbeams 5 times using the "flash to pass" stalk on the side of the steering wheel (on/off, on/off, on/off, on/off, on/off). 4. Press brake pedal 3 times in 10 seconds. 5. The battery light on instrument cluster will flash indicating the BMS has been reset.

Well that certainly proves that the 3.5 water pump fails at a premature rate. My MKX has a little over 130,000 miles, I'd better start considering a preventive maintenance change out. LOL 330,000 miles. Incredible.

Should be fine. They fixed the 4 cyl 2.0 L for the 2019 m.y. (Moved the coolant crossover channel from the gasket mating surface to a hole drilled through block. This eliminated the problem of the head gasket not having enough distance between cyls 2&3).

When did you change the water pump?

Famous last words. lol

Yea, I seen that tire, but TireRack didn't recommend it. I'd look closely as it could turn out to be noisy or ride hard. (This tire has no competition).

I plugged the 175×55×18 into Tire Rack calculator and got this: WE'RE SORRY Looks like your answers narrowed the field down to zero tires available for your 2011 Ford Edge AWD.

One way to test the heater core is the run car to heat coolant, feel heater core inlet and output hose. If outlet only is cold, (1) core is plugged OR (2) core has air pocket. If plugged it can sometimes be cleared by pressue flusing by reversing the flow (connect pressure hose to outlet and reverse flush core). If car has EMTC (manual), the blend door module is connected to both doors on one shaft; and assume shaft is broken. If car has DATC (automatic), there are two blend door actuators and one is malfuncting. You can tell which actuator is failing by turning on heat. Cold side is failure. Causes of failure include broken interior gears, a burnt out motor or loss of output shaft gear position. You can try a blend door reset procedure and see if it resets. (1) remove fuse(s) for 60 seconds. Then start car, run a/c for a few minutes to allow HVAC to initialize and calibrate actuators. Takes about a minute. Switch car off and replace fuses. Start car again and wait 1/2 minute and verify mode door operation. ▪︎You can also try resetting the HVAC module. Press the heater control button and the AC button simultaneously and hold for a few seconds. Release both and then push the heater button again to run diagnostics. (The vents will blow air in a cycle for about 20 seconds during this phase). Read any codes shown on screen (top right or left corners). Press AUTO to reset to exit diagnostics. If you need to replace an actuator, there have been descriptions posted in this forum by members on how to do it. Use the search feature.

They're rated as one of Ebay's most reputable sellers. I wouldn't be concerned.

If you want to go from a 4" display to an 8" display, and sync 2 to sync 3, you're looking at changing a lot of components. While you could accumulate each part separately and figure out the software changes, it might be more advisable to buy a kit from a company that can provide all the parts and preprogram it for you. Here's one system, https://www.infotainment.com/products/2011-2018-ford-edge-4-to-8-sync-3-touchscreen-upgrade

Figured that you would get a response by now. Here's a kit that allows you to add a backup camera (plus more) to your 2014 edge with 4.3" screen. $400 https://www.emeraldintegrations.com/ford-edge-oem-rear-view-backup-camera-system.html

Starbucks chocolate carmal latte? Yummm.

I read that it has a class B rating on Gasoline and class A for certain oils and class C for other oils. For the class A oils, butter, castor oil, corn oil. For the class C oils, linseed & mineral oils. It seem exceptionally susceptible to cleaning solvents and certain acids. Petroleum oils were not listed as being tested. Class A for road salt. Class B - Resistant no indication that serviceability would be impaired. Variable resistance, depending on conditions of use. Class C - Unresistant, not recommended for service applications under any conditions. I'd say it was s good choice overall.

Do you live near to coast? Salt air can be corrosive.

Sounds like there's a trip to the service department in your future. Probably an easy fix. In the meantime, you always have the front sensors that start beeping at 28".

Being plastic, how does this board hold up to gasoline and oil?

?Looks great. Wonder what a "mechanic" will think when he goes to do an oil change? Hack, hack, hack. There. Now I have access. (Sigh). Really does look good however. What material did you use?

There's one simple test you can try to reset the ABS. Try backing up, say 15 mph and stomp on the brakes. This has to be done only in reverse. Really mash the pedal. You may have to do this 2 or 3 times. But there's a chance the module will reset if you can get the brakes to go into auto pulsate.

The first thing I would suspect is a weak vehicle battery. You need to test the battery's CCA capability. If the battery is getting weak, it loses capacity and voltage in the cold. After the car starts, the voltage comes up due to the alternator and the steering will begin working again.

Hope you specified a Ford Approved windshield as Ford is denying warranty on several areas with aftermarket windshields. As far as radio, there was a guy on F150 forum that had several electrical problems after windshield replacment. Traced to water entry at bottom on glass, corroded electrical connectors in instrument consul.

Probably wouldn't qualify as it's not a safety issue (I'm not aware of any FMVSS standard on parking brakes). Definitely a bad design however. Wonder if you complained directly to Ford, that they would offer some assistance (inasmuch as it's obviously a design failure).

Sounds like a PTU. Check the PTU vent for puke. Think I read in a message here, instead of replacing the PTU (rebuilt units are cheaper than new, but the new Gen 1 replacments are modified to last longer), where someone removed the PTU and driveshaft. Essentially converting the car to FWD.