IWRBB

It's effectively a 3 position gauge. 1) Cold 2)normal temps to *almost* overheating, and 3)overheating. It'll need to be overheating before that gauge ever moves higher than your picture shows. Fords have been like this for at least the last 30 years. They think customers are too stupid to handle information from an actual gauge that shows the actual temperatures, and for 95% of drivers- they are totally correct.

In what junkyard did you find an Edge in Cincinnati? U-pull-n-pay hasn't had one yet according to the inventory on their website. Need to pick up rubber mats for teh console and have been waiting for some to show up in the yards. We have a 2010 Sport in the same color- fantastic paint color. Edit: There's not much in the way of performance parts. Intakes and exhaust will net nothing. Best bet is to leave it alone and pocket the savings.

Nothing is plugged in, stereo is fine. We were planning to drive it and just about fired it up the day before, but then took another vehicle- so maybe we left a door open or something? I thought the lights automatically cutoff after a certain period of time though.

Did you check the lights in the vanity mirrors in the sunvisors? I've seen those stay on- my F150 will do it if the visor is flipped all the way forward towards the glass and the door for the mirror hangs open just enough for the light to come on. Oddly enough, our 2010 Edge drained it's battery about a week ago. Not sure what caused it either. Charged it back up and all is good so far. Will keep an eye on it though.

Car-part.com is the junkyard search engine. I've bought an airbox off there before- it's hit or miss with the communication from certain yards, but that is to be expected.

If you guys don't want to be without your vehicle while a sunroof is fixed, I'd recommend NOT buying a vehicle with a big ass moonroof next time around. We own extra vehicles that we can drive if the Edge had to be fixed, so I figured I'd take a chance with the BAMR on ours. So far, so good. I cleaned and lubed it when we got it used, and we rarely open the glass. Typically we just open the shade for the light/view. Baby girl in the back seat likes to look through the roof while we drive.

Haha love it. Take a punch and a hammer and bend the frame. Nice fix Ford!

We put a KYB mount on our 08 Taurus when the strut failed early. Didn't have it too much longer after that, but it worked fine while we had it. You list looks good, other than the end links as mentioned above. It'll ride like new.

If you can get OEM Motorcraft struts, definitely go that way. Otherwise, KYBs or Monroes will be OK. Also, definitely replace the upper mounts you listed as SM5755. At the mileage you have, while you are in there doing the front struts, I'd do the lower control arms (Moog 24000-05268242), which will come with new bushings and ball joints. I'd also replace the sway bar end links (Moog 29007-05459404) - it's easy and cheap.

Just drill the case, tap it and put in plugs to drain and fill it. Change it at every other oil change. People do it all the time on differential cases for gear oil cooling systems. I bought a 2WD Edge because of this thread! Well, I had a vague knowledge of the problem as not uncommon on the Taurus, but this thread reminded me, no AWD for the Edge!

We have a 2010, glare sucks. Polarized shades or not. I'm 6'3, wife is 5'6, we both notice it. Just the nature of the beast. At least the dash isn't ugly as sin like the 11-14s are.

You are going to have to hit up a junkyard where you can pull the parts yourself. They are OK with you buying the smallest part of an assembly, or buying the whole car.

Love the blind spot mirrors. Wasn't used to them at first since my wife mainly drives it, but since my F150 has the same style now, I've gotten used to it in the Edge. You could just slap one of the stick on round blind spot mirrors on there. It's easier to see with those.

If you do all that, then go ahead and paint it. Rust converter should be top coated. That's pretty bad for a 2014, but it could have seen the winter of 2013, 2014, and 2015 before you got it. 3 years in Michigan, depending on where, can easily case the rust you are seeing. Most of it looks to be on heavy pieces of steel- the subframe, control arm, strut bodies, so it's really all just "surface rust" when you consider how much steel is left. Rust on the thin body panels is way more of an issue- the bottoms of doors/hood/liftgate, wheel wells, rockers and floor pans are what you need to really keep an eye on.

I think he's talking about the plastic rivets in the wheel well liner- which he probably removed to do the alternator and belt.

Unless your caliper has pistons on both sides of the rotor (typically only found on higher end sports cars), the pad on the piston side will always wear out first. It will typically show tapered wear as well, more at the front, less at the back. If it's *really* uneven, yea you have a problem. If one looks at 20% more worn than the other, I'd call that normal. Edit: Greasing the slides is a good idea when the tires are rotated.

From what I've seen with grills like that- you cut out the OEM plastic grill very carefully until the billet one fits. Then you drill mounting tabs into the OEM grill shell. Aint no going back with that type of modification.

It's definitely in the mirror. I've also unplugged the connection to the mirror and only had a "compass not found" warning when the key was turned on. Everything else was fine.

That's the problem, you can't keep an eye on it. It's behind the timing cover. The A/C in our 2010 does just fine.

I'm in the area too. Up near Mason and West Chester. Candy Red 2010 sport with a black painted grille, 20" chrome wheels- not the 22" polished. Definitely the only one in town that looks like that. Main issue with the 3.5 is the water pump is in the timing cover. If it fails, it can leak water into the oil and trash the engine. Not common, but it happens. Reminds me, I need to get the coolant flushed.

The devil you know...

Please do not put HIDs in a reflector housing. Massive glare for other drivers. Projectors that are designed for HID lamps would be OK.

Just do it. It's not a big deal. Center-punch a flat spot, work your way up through the bit sizes, tap it, plug it. You can buy drain plug setups that'll work with a non-tapped hole as well. They use rubber seals. I was lucky enough to get our 2010 Edge in 2014, and by then the PTU was a known POS so I went with FWD. At some point they are going to have to start making them again- there's no way the junkyards can keep up with the failure rate of these things. All the manufacturers have issues- if the PTU is your only real problem, and you know how to fix it- just fix it and move on. Ford is not some big evil company that is out to produce vehicles that fail.

It's a major process. The engine needs to be supported from the top, then the exhaust y-pipe has to come off, then the front subframe has to come out. Then pull the passenger side wheel and wheel liner. After all that you get to strip the entire front of the engine. Then you take the timing cover off. You can then R&R the water pump. Might as well replace the drive chains and chain tensioners while you are in there too. Then clean up the timing cover/engine block and put everything back together. All that labor plus parts and shop supplies gets to $2000 pretty quick. If it were my car, I'd put the used engine in there, change the coolant, and roll. Drop the whole engine/trans and suspension out on the subframe and swap it outside of the car. So much easier.

It's out of warranty. You will have to pay to get it fixed. Just accept that and move on. You are correct that it's an internal pump (inside the timing cover), and it can damage the engine if it leaks. This type of packaging of the waterpump is not uncommon nowadays, unfortunately. The upside is the waterpump typically lasts much longer. The downside is your situation. I've not heard of that many leaking, so it's not common. It does happen though, and there are multiple instances just in this forum. Here's what you need to do. Find an independent mechanic who is willing to swap a used engine into your Edge. Have him locate an engine for you. You should be able to find one with 20K to 60K miles for less than $2000. Should be about $750 to $1000 to swap it out. You should be able to get it running again for less than $3000 in my opinion.