garycrist

@bwguardian These automobiles have a critical charge and just a little more and a top-off can have disastrous results. A little less is "way mo better" than too much. The old "Ford System Performance Test" (I enjoyed that in the summer in Kansas) was to run car @2500 RPM, Recirculate/Max, and fan on high center register. System %100 if air temp is 40 F. That would be about 28- 30 PSI. R-134 and R12 have about the same specs too as the pressures (temps) are about the same. From what you said above if you did not splatter the compressor (too much liquid) then the orifice is OK. 90 degree day high side was OK, low side less than 28 system will cut-off (temp is less than freezing liquid may return to compressor).

If a vacuum leak develops between the manifold and brake booster or a rupture of the Brake Booster Diaphragm, will cause a rough idle. Bleeding the brakes will have not solve a "Hard Pedal".

Just found out a little trick when comparing plans. Most strip all of the goodies and add them back. So make sure you get the rest; This is from my guy. "No worries. Just need to be sure comparable plans are being offered All of my prices include 1st day rental Key Service Enhanced Rental Lighting They strip out all the options and make you add them back."

Not only must Automatic Updates be checked but, just below that section one must also enable the schedule tick just below it too.

Tricky, tricky, tricky. Airplane props on a ST!😉

Hey @1004ron, are those BMW wheels?

I have 285 35 22s

Back in the corner of the shop, is a piece of greasy-dirty 4X4. It's kind of gnawed up too. It is used as a door, hood and trunk modification device!🙄 Bending err adjusting the post on a door to either make the window roll-up better or cure a wind noise was another trick I've used too! Back to yours, watch-out for "hood flutter" at speed! You only want enough preload on the hood for it not to flutter at YOUR top speed. That keeps the life of the hood, rubber bumper and it's mount last longer.

Adjust the rubber bumpers under the hood. It takes minutes!

Glad you got it fixed.

When I sold Yokohama tires back in the late 80's, the only tire to have were the A001s for the track, in most of the road racing classes. For the street were the A008s. One would last 1K-8K with the BETTER driver receiving fewer miles. While the other tire would last 30K-60K with the BETTER driver receiving the best mileage! The quizzical looks and questions would flow after I made those statements. So, getting "short" wear life out of HP products is expected. That is why they gave the Joker option. "Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?"

I just read through this thread. The earlier Edges had the computer as stated above, run the "flasher function". If one goes with a LED assembly or light a resistor MUST be put in series. In the above the problem with the dual fitment is if the dual filaments were wired in series or parallel. So in order to do the math (I'm too lazy so I'll plagiarize) and cut and paste. Read redmondjp explanation and MATH.😀 https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/resistance-of-1156-bulb.2375533/

Might I ask where in the trouble shooting guide, does it say disconnect the battery?

Without more info, I would guess the hamster wheel needs lubing.

Check and see if he plugged in the gear shift connectors and he did not blow a fuse. Pop the cover off and look.

I see the red calipers, didn't some of those pads have normal rapid wear? Take a picture of the 4 rotors through the wheels and post them here. We will quickly help determine if a quick pad change will work.

Have you done a master reset of the Sync system? If not Ford has a reset procedure for all of the Sync systems. https://www.ford.com/support/how-tos/sync/getting-started-with-sync/troubleshooting-apple-carplay/ GL

I can offer you a suggestion. It might be possible to un-stick the seat belt if over-extended with a thin flexible piece of steel. (read Slim Jim) Try slipping it on the inside of the belt and move the tool down till resistance is encountered. ( the belt seam) I've unstuck a few. Watch the video to learn MY the cheat!

I do not think so. Just do not let the master run dry and don't pump too far down on the pedal.

I have a man we have worked with for many years on a different site. He has given me permission to forward his information to anyone needing a Ford ESP plan. He is the General Manager of the dealership so there will be some rules, as we do not need his e-mail box filling with B.S. PM me and I'll be glad to forward Joel's info to you.. The process is simple as sending in the VIN year and mileage and picking one's plan/plans. It is my understanding these are at his cost. Gary P.S. In Florida, it is an insurance policy and is handled in state. I make no money too!

I have them on my Fox Mustang and it does help modulate the pedal. Something I would like more of on our ST.

Did anyone answer FREE TOWING from every insurer one has in one's pocket?

I hope you did not get hosed from your repair. IIRC the reservoir is pressurized! If you overheated the 1st time, it is possible someone drilled a vent hole to prevent the coolant from spewing out from a blown head gasket.

Rather than lugging those jumper cables around, I purchased one of those little LIPO batteries for jumping my stuff. Now with the new Edge, I carry a breaker bar and socket for the tires and 165 foot pounds of torque.

Don't forget about bias-ply tires and flats all of the time too. A 4 way and jumper cables in the trunk just for back up.