1004ron

$600 for parts and labor seems about right to me.

Received and tested my new TPMS - working great and will have them installed when I fit new tires later this month. I ordered these from the same supplier that I bought my BMW motorcycles TPMS from about a year ago - they're installed and working. $33 including shipping for a set of 4. Order date: Jun 19, 2022 - 16 days https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806123050754.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.17.450a4cc6yJXhND&algo_pvid=6de501dc-969d-4ac7-a292-8c84d182f09f&algo_exp_id=6de501dc-969d-4ac7-a292-8c84d182f09f-8&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!23.60!18.88!!!23.60!!%402103297417022527717081027eb84d!12000036706129732!sea!US!0!AB&curPageLogUid=4zf0ZSMEZuh6 Also on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013GU2VTI/?coliid=I29T2MXYNEX3SF&colid=17XD4QIGE1U54&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Doesn't the current owner have insurance cover? - I do on my 2017 Sport.

If it starts and runs smoothly with starter fluid then it points to a fuel delivery issue, if it doesn't start with starter fluid then there's a whole lot more to check, and the codes related to crank and cams out of sync would suggest timing is off. Did the company tell you that it ran, or did you see it run?

If this was a running engine that just quit working I wouldn't suspect the valve timing, but after hearing that I'll stick with my suggestion earlier in this thread - check the valve timing.

Whats the origin of this "new" motor?

@DCoco OEM Ford brand is what you need.

That schematic is why I don't believe that the auto accessory shops have the ability to test these alternators,. The old type that had just two connections they could reliably bench test, but not the latest ones that have data communication with the vehicles body control module.

Yes, and who knows what criteria they use for testing. You're better off having an auto-elec shop rebuild your original one, or get a good identical one from a wreckers yard, or a new OEM alternator. Try a search for radiator cooling fan assemblies - its known here that all third-party fan controllers don't work, reasons unknown.

On this forum and another one I frequent there's been reports such as yours with rebuilt alternators, and without doing any diagnostics, the alternator would be my guess as to what's wrong. Here's one of many examples: https://www.kia-forums.com/threads/2005-kia-sedona-lx-multiple-alternators-and-batteries-replaced.221729/#post-1308481

Welcome. When you say "new" alternator, was it a reconditioned one, and where did you buy it? Do you have a multimeter do do a few checks that we could suggest?

I think you'll find the other brands have very similar warranties, and most often don't cover anything when that expires.

I've broken one of these clips and got a replacement from www.oreillyauto.com They don't always have these on the shelf, but they got it in the same day for me - Just let them know the size and they'll order. Dorman OE Solutions Fuel Line Retaining Clip, New Style, Black | 9696916 | Pep Boys 3/8 In. Fuel Line Retaining Clips 800-004: Advance Auto Parts Amazon.com: Dorman 800-041 Universal Fuel Line Retainer - 5/8 In. Compatible with Select Models, 2 Pack : Automotive

Don't quote me, but I think the inertia switch cuts the fuel pump.

You posted in the "2.0L EcoBoost" section. So what model and year do you have. What are the issues you're having and what have you looked at?

See TSB 22-2133 https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/30783-tsb-22-2229-2015-2018-edge-other-models-20l-ecoboost-coolant-in-cylinders-white-exhaust-smoke-andor-illuminated-mil/?tab=comments#comment-226589

I would verify the valve timing.

Do you still have the symptoms "Car struggles to start after I've refueled it. " ? Hopefully @Haz can assist with that. My dealerships service manager told me the most often the evap valve is the cure, but they have also found the same code to be a problem with the canister in the rear. Once you have it resolved, to avoid this happening again never top-off your tank - stop the first time the pump shuts off.

If the light is staying on, then no point in clearing codes - check the codes and if its still the same evap code then you have other issues with the evap system, like the canister in the rear.

Some used car sales places add a remote cut-out which they trigger if a loan payment is missed - you might not have a loan on them, but the devices were left in the cars and somehow a signal went out to disable both vehicles.

@Haz How expensive is this type of service manual, and is it available to the general public? I've got a DVD service manual for my BMW motorcycle and it's the type of quality that you often post here, search feature and hyperlinks etc. - I'd love to buy something like that for my Edge and my wife's Mustang.

I need to correct my predictions. The original P-Zero lasted 50K miles. I'm now at 82K miles and will need to replace the Atturo's at 85K miles, so only 35K miles on them vs 50K miles on the P-Zero. The only negative things I have to report on the Atturo is the flats it gets when parked for a day or two, which is much worse in cold weather, and only 70% life of the P-Zero. I'm contemplating going with the P-Zero again, but welcome suggestions. Costco have the Bridgestone - ALENZA AS ULTRA on special until late July - any reviews on these tires?

What about the suggestion directly above your post? - disconnecting the sensor.

Update: On 9 June I lifted all the relays in the engine compartment fuse box and reseated them and since then its never misbehaved. Speculation, but maybe a little oxidation on one of the terminals related to the data bus ? Fingers crossed that its resolved. I bought a hard copy wiring diagram service manual, not as nice as the color schematics @Haz posts, but it should help if I need to do any fault finding in the future.

Rick P I sold it some time back on Craigslist.