1004ron

I got tired of the growl and vibration of the StopTech drilled & slotted rotors, so yesterday I installed Centric Hi-Carbon rotors and Centric PQ ceramic pads, and so far very pleased with the results. They come with a black coating on the outside - I painted both sides and the edge with high temp caliper paint. Bought from RockAuto Rotors $95 each Pad set $50 CENTRIC 12561120 {125.61120, 125-61120} (High Carbon) High Carbon Alloy Front; 345mm Front Disc https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/centric,12561120,rotor,1896 CENTRIC 50018180 {500.18180, 500-18180} (Premium) PQ PRO Front https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/centric,50018180,brake+pad,1684

Have you checked the cabin air filter?

Either that "guy at Ford" was blowing smoke up your rear, or you didn't understand what he said. Is it a manual transmission - if not, there's no engine brake involved at all. Its more likely that your experience with the use of the parking brake has more to do with maintenance, the lack of. is it good practice to use the parking brake automatic transmission - Google Search

Nothing is impossible but .... Would need an electrical/electronics wizard to install the SHO's ECU and TCU.

https://www.google.com/search?q=www.fordedgeforum.com+sync+upgrade&source=hp&ei=GE2RYtrRK4upuvQPj4W8wAw&iflsig=AJiK0e8AAAAAYpFbKFkokOe8K36hNFx_IldTLQ8zu-BD&ved=0ahUKEwjavZn12YD4AhWLlI4IHY8CD8gQ4dUDCAg&uact=5&oq=www.fordedgeforum.com+sync+upgrade&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAM6BAgAEB46BQgAEIYDOgUIIRCgAToFCCEQqwJQAFi9QWCjRmgAcAB4AIABtAGIAfgLkgEDNy43mAEAoAECoAEB&sclient=gws-wiz PM me and I'll give the contact number of a supplier of everything in a kit, and prompt support.

Is it cranking at normal speed? Does it start promptly, idle good, and rev normally? If the answer those questions is YES, then measure the charging voltage with it running, and if that's where it needs to be, then you start the next diagnostic step. Start with the simple things, check all fuses with a multimeter (not visual), all grounding and power connections, ..... " battery tested good" - that doesn't tell us much - what was the measured CCA compared to what's on the label, the voltage drop when cranking, charging voltage, and ripple - these are all test results that my tester presents, and expect the shop should have the same or better. 2019 at 44K miles - IIRC the bumper to bumper warranty ended at 36K miles - you could still approach the selling dealership and request good will, or do you have any extended warranty?

This forum search feature doesn't work for me, so use Google. There's a few posts on the forum reporting that the non-OEM fan assemblies don't work. radiator fan troubleshooting - 3.5L - Ford Edge Forum Radiator Fan Issue - 2012 Edge & MKX - Ford Edge Forum

It is expected that Ford, or any manufacturer, provide a torque value for everything, but I'll stick with bottoming out the filter housing and that's where I stop, and leave the double O-rings to do the sealing. My speculation is that the filter assy is assembled dry in the factory and and they apply torque after it bottoms out, and that causes the plastic threads to lock up - it Fords problem, have them fix it.

It might be best to have the dealership remove it, seeing as the factory over-tightened it - they damage it, they replace it. It should just be bottomed out, no torque applied, seeing as it relies solely on the double O-rings to seal. Is that a six sided 27mm socket?

I used the resource found in the below thread: You should contact Cyanlabs for their advice on which files to download. https://cyanlabs.net/applications/syn3-updater/

Flex Plate ? Not an easy one for fellow members to diagnose - best take it to an experienced tech.

If the jump-start pack gets it going, then your new battery is bad or you have a parasitic draw, so best get the battery load tested and do a parasitic test.

Thanks. No discernible difference, but that can be expected considering the original plugs were still very good. Bear in mind that I baby the car, never once been above 5K RPM. I installed the NGK's at 62,300 miles and I'm at 79,500 miles and still going like it did when I took delivery of it in March 2017. I bought my Edge while I was abroad, never sat in an Edge let alone test drive one, and the dealership's courtesy driver picked my wife and I up at the airport with all our baggage. I was familiar with the dealership because I had the company car serviced there for a few years.

Sorry to hear that. Please describe what you've checked so far and the results. Have you considered any of the advice already posted in this thread? What Model Edge? - please add that to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Did you do the throttle body calibration? 2011 Ford Edge PCM reset and throttle body relearn after reset - YouTube Ford Vehicles: Electronic Throttle Body Calibration Procedure - YouTube

If you're not electrical inclined, I suggest you look for an independent Auto-Elec shop.

I don't use a torque wrench on spark plugs, but would advise following the tightening instructions on the NGK packaging, which is specific the the plug and its seal arrangement. The top image is for the NGK 95605 Ruthenium HX plugs

You could try PM him - he hasn't been around here for quite some time. Have you considered the recommendation in the post directly above yours?

PM @Haz and ask if he can help with diagrams.

2017 Sport. In about two to three months I'll be installing new tires for the second time in my ownership and was wondering what life folks have been getting from their TPM Sensors, so that I can decide on installing new ones now at just over five years, or take a chance until the next tire change which would have the original sensors at 7.5 yo. TPMS typically last 7 to 10 years. Also, what make and model sensors are installed in my 2017 Sport?

Maybe @Haz could help with wiring schematics to assist with the fault finding.

My 2017 Sport might be different, but it needs the transmission to be in Drive for those to come on.

No video, but you'll find a few pointers in the below thread.

The shinny outer shell is aluminum, and the dealerships use a pneumatic impact wrench to remove and install the lug nuts, which distorts and stretches the aluminum. My dealership using this method also chipped my wheels - as the lug nuts come off the sockets swings around a hammers the wheels. When I confronted the dealership about the swollen lug nuts and damage to my wheels, he responded that they use torque sticks - well that only helps not to over torque the nuts, the impact action still destroys the soft aluminum shell. He ordered a full set at no cost to me. BTW, there is existing threads on this topic.

This could be a latent defect - quite possibly related to the glass annealing process. Annealing (glass) - Wikipedia If no warranty cover wouldn't the insurance cover this?