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One of them is the "Mode" actuator (Directs the air to the upper and lower vents), and the other is the "Blend" actuator (Blends the Hot and Cold air for temperature control).

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2015,edge,2.0l+l4+turbocharged,3310416,heat+&+air+conditioning,heater+blend+door+actuator,10721 https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-604239-Air-Door-Actuator/dp/B00HE8P664/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=2015+Edge+Titanium+blend+door+actuator&qid=1637804591&qsid=141-7037450-3647026&replacementKeywords=titanium+blend+door+actuator&sr=8-2&sres=B00HE8P664%2CB08GCTRTJR%2CB08414ZV5J%2CB07XM4WNN6%2CB07664V1JN%2CB07FFRJ13G%2CB07DWFV6VK%2CB07XM4XDCP%2CB07ZFJJZLF%2CB071ZXTDBD%2CB082F2KGGP%2CB00HEBT2PW&vehicle=2015-54-5858------------&vehicleName=2015+Ford+Edge

@onyxbfly I did remove the air box - when I started the job I realized how easy it was, and I've done it before when I did the transmission drain/fill - it's not essential, but it makes it much more convenient. I also considered going with the H6 AGM, but seeing as the original battery could easily make 5 years, I didn't think it was really needed.

Thanks @omar302 , good advice taken.

Done. Battery Type/Size changed, BMS reset, new negative battery connector and felt protectors on terminals. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PVX1K2N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DKUTR0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Original Battery New battery type/size - 730 CCA BMS reset

Thanks for the reminder. What do you suggest - should I use code "0E" ?

I went one size up, the Costco Interstate H6 (48) and it fits with ease and only $15 more than the T5. Charging it now, and will then reset the BMS using Forscan.

The only sign I've experienced that would suggest the battery on my Sport that I bought in March 2017 is nearing end of life is the warning I get with the ignition on ACC after just a couple of minutes. The resting voltage after a drive home from work is only 12.03 v. I'd say this original 590 CCA has served me well, so I question whether there's any benefit in going up one size, or paying $65 more for an AGM - I don't want to remove my air filter box to get the battery installed. I'm considering the Interstate from Costco at $100.

Yes, the VIN in that location is stamped into the metal chassis.

The VIN that can be seen from outside looking down onto the left side of the dashboard is stamped onto the chassis. Some also have them on the chassis where the top of one of the wheels shock strut attaches.

Where to find your Ford VIN and what it means (sherwoodford.ca) FORD EDGE VIN decoder, lookup and check history of FORD EDGE VIN (fordvinlookup.com)

https://www.fordedgeforum.com/search/?q=hood latch

So where can it be found on this engine?

Welcome. Post a photo or look for one online.

You're welcome, but please do tell us if you've resolved the issue, and what it actually was that you needed.

Some countries check the engine number stamped on the block to verify that its the original, not a replacement, and not listed as stolen - I'm guessing this what the igna needs is for.

I'm not familiar with your model, but the engine number is typically stamped on the engine block near the top just below the cylinder head - use a flashlight and search for yours. The registration office needs it to confirm that the engine is original.

That guy waffles - does he have a point, if so what is it?

Slow down and take just a little time to read this thread - the questions you're asking have already been covered.

Forget about the sealant rabbit hole - its already been stated here that's not a cure for the issue discussed in this thread.

Because it is only a recommendation by Ford, not a specification, there may be some gain using the higher octane, but using lower octane will not damage the engine and will not be a factor in any possible warranty claim. This model engines manufacturing defect is totally unrelated to the fuel used.

Recommended is very different to "specifies" - main reason being that using anything less than the recommended cannot be a factor when deciding a warranty claim.

A bad alternator will not prevent a START as long as the battery has sufficient charge.

Where did you read that?

My work associate had his replaced by a good indy shop, who bought the new long block from Ford and it came to around $4,500 for the whole job, with no help from Ford. I suggest that we merge this with the existing thread on the issue.