1004ron

That depends on the cause of the low pressure condition, and if it was fouling of the oil pump suction strainer it would be far worse to go with a heavier weight oil. You're not considering an significant viscosity, so don't expect issues, but theoretically the higher viscosity come with lower flow and that could be worse.

You're better off taking it to an AutoElec shop.

Could you post a screen shot of that? And the PDF you're using.

I have 68K miles on my 2017 2.7L TT V6 and don't plan on replacing good working coils.

Got to wonder what those design engineers were smoking - no drain plug. Add one promising feature and remove another. If I owned one of those I'd have followed the DIY instructions to add a drain plug.

Good that they introduced cooling, but a step backwards if they eliminated the drain plug.

I'd be surprised if the ST PTU is different to the Sport PTU's, but post a photo so that we know what you're looking at.

My guess is he has fuel injectors and throttle body.

"Throttle body injection" - I haven't seen any throttle body injection systems other than aftermarket upgrades for older cars. Could the OP be asking if he has a carburetor or fuel injection?

That question makes no sense - I could start guessing what you're attempting to say, but might be best you try and explain what you mean. Why do you feel the need to add cleaner?

To add to @niceonept suggestion, add location and vehicle model and year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/ Not sure if diesel versions are sold in some locations, and if this is a diesel filter you're referring to, but don't believe my Edge Sport has a "fine fuel filter".

That gives ample space for both vehicles drivers door to open.

My wife's Mustang

What engine? - please look at putting location and Model & Year in your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/ What's the mileage? What's the service history, oil change intervals, and oil used? If you've not kept up with the oil changes then the sludge that forms will cause poor oil circulation and lifter noise and bearing noise will result - you may be lucky that the use of Seafoam cleans the engine up BUT if you use it to clear sludge from a badly maintained engine, make sure you do a few oil changes at very short intervals because the sludge and debris dislodged by the Seafoam will trash the engine in very short notice. I'll also ask the same question as @enigma-2, have you checked the oil level and if there's oil on the dipstick what does it look like.

I think the OP is referring to a 2012.

Have you tried a forum search?

Regardless of reasoning behind the removal of the badges, whether its claimed to be for aesthetics, the impression it leaves with some folks, including those setting the price of a trade-in, remains the same. It may come across as negative comment to those that enjoy removal of the badges, but its really just a fact of life. Painting the badges would leave me with the same impression as the removal.

The tell-tale I mentioned:

I would not buy a used car that's been de-badged - its a telltale sign for me.

You could get lucky throwing parts at it, but could also get unlucky and it doesn't resolve the problem and waste money - statistics show that a non-diagnostic approach ends up costing more money than it should. Where did you "read up on this"? What valve in the pump are you referring to? - pressure regulating valve, or a non-return valve? If it was a failing fuel pump, why would it only happen after she fuels up?

Welcome. To save yourself posting that each time, you can add location, Model and Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

If you have an extended warranty, then yes it is covered. The standard warranty ran out at 60K miles. A new PTU costs around $700 and then you need to add labor.

I'd try another store or Ford Dealership and have them scan for stored codes, because without that as a diagnostics starting point you're left with guessing. Mine spluttered when idling every time after gassing up brim full, and no codes showed up, .....then I got a top of the line OBDLink MX+ which has free downloads specific to Ford, and its app and Forscan showing that there was in fact a stored code related to the evap valve. Just further guessing, it could be a bad evap valve - something that wouldn't cost anything to try, next few times only fill up to about 3/4 tank and see if there's a change. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFRFJG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 About this item Turn your iPhone, Android device, or Windows PC into a professional-grade diagnostic scan tool Recommended adapter for FORScan, Torque, BimmerCode, Dashcommand, AlfaOBD, Carista and many more Enhanced Diagnostics: read (and clear) manufacturer-specific codes and access live parameters on a wide range of Ford, GM, Mazda, Nissan and Toyota vehicles More Data OBDLink MX+ supports GM-LAN and Ford-MSC proprietary vehicle networks that provide access to thousands of additional parameters that are off-limits to all other wireless OBD scanners, including BlueDriver and FIXD. With third party apps, you can enable convenience features (including remote start and door lock/unlock) and change configuration on select models.

? I got NGK Ruthenium, and you said you got Iridium.

I checked their gaps and they were what the book specifies, and I would not attempt to re-gap them.