1004ron

I also have the JLT on my Sport which I installed early in its life and recently when I changed spark plugs at 62K miles I looked into the combustion chamber and there was zero fouling, could even read the numbers on the piston crowns - I don't drive hard and use only Costco top tier premium. At the same time I changed the plugs on my wife's 3.7L V6 Mustang and for that you need to remove the intake plenum and it had more oil in it than I like, so next week when JLT have their annual Black Friday 10% discount I'll be getting a catch can for the Mustang. On both vehicles I also installed new PCV valves, just to be sure and they're only $8 each for Motorcraft OEM.

The oil level has no impact on starting the engine, so the fact that it started after adding oil is coincidental. Best take it to a place like Autozone and have them read the stored error codes and post them here. The oil light coming on when the engine stalls is to be expected as the oil pumps stops when the engine stops, so not a pointer to why it stalled.

The A version only came on the market this year or late last year, so likely the ones you used in 2016 did have the black plastic end caps.

The Edge wont shut off when you get out of range of the FOB. You cannot start the Edge without the FOB inside the vehicle, and if the vehicle is already running and the door is closed the horn will honk. I cant be sure, but I doubt the Chevy allows the engine to start without the FOB inside the vehicle, so to me something doesn't sound right about your friends story.

Full synthetic is superior to a blend, and most Ford dealerships will have the option of full synthetic at an additional cost. Check your owners manual and you'll see that Ford Engineers also recommend full synthetic. Bear in mind, all manufacturers advertise the annual maintenance figures, .......any guess how they arrive at the lowest figure?

What year, model, mileage, mileage since last service. The remaining oil life monitor is only a rough estimate and reminder when the oil change is due. I change my oil and filter at 5K mile intervals at which time the remaining oil life indicator is around 50%. Please consider adding location and Model/Year to your signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

The old plugs gap was still spot on at 32 thou, and I checked the new NGK plugs and they were closer to 30 thou and I left them at that - no gapping done. BTW, I also changed the plugs in my wife's NA Mustang 3.7L V6 this weekend using the NGK Ruthenium HX plugs. It has 65K miles on the clock and I'd say that it was due for replacement plugs due the gap growth which is 50 thou to start with new - although it requires removal of the intake air plenum its a much easier job.

Today I decided to install the NGK 95605 Ruthenium HX plugs that I bought recently, .....not because they needed changing at 62K miles, but because I'm a tinkerer and and having the new plugs gave me itchy fingers. Plugs bought from Rockauto.com for $53 shipped. The original plugs would easily be good for 100+K miles and all their gaps were a snug 32 thou. With the plugs out looking down on top of the pistons they are so clean I could read the numbers on their crowns - my Edge only gets Costco Top Tier premium. The job took just over 4 hours, which includes a trip to Lowe's to get additional 1/2" drive socket extensions. The rear plugs are a challenge - I did not remove the air tube coming up from the rear turbo and it would be easier with that out of the way. I removed the flex rubber tube connecting it to the air filter housing and pulled it to left and right to get the two plugs that it obstructs. For the rear plugs you need to secure the plug socket to a 5" extension and once inserted down the tube and onto the plug then place the 2" or 3" extension onto that, and then a ratchet with pivoting head - this is due to the restricted head clearance. Added a little dielectric grease to the rubber ignition coils tubes to prevent them sticking to the porcelain part of the plug. I'm not a good technical author, so feel free to ask questions if you plan on this DIY. Excerpt from the service manual. Ignition Coil-On-Plug.pdf No anti-seize used on the plug threads as per the manufacturers recommendation. https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

Edge Guide any chance that you could assist with this?

Those that have experienced these failures might know better than me, but my wild guess would be the lubricant properties breakdown and cause the mechanical seal to fail, or particulate buildup over time.

Testing continuity across the two posts with the nuts on will confirm that both fuses are in tact, and if you don't get continuity there, then test from the center connector to each of those posts to identify which of the two fuses has blown. You should be able to see through those clear plastic covers whether the fuse is blown, but a continuity check with a multimeter is the ultimate check.

With this being the 3.5L with internal water pump, if it were mine I'd be changing it early.

That's most certainly what I would do if I didn't have the means to do it myself. I've heard only good reviews of the Costco branded oil - I buy Mobil-1 from Costco only when on special and claim the rebates online every year. Keep your receipts for the oil and filters, and the service shop, and in addition to this I take a photo of the odometer with service indicator before and after I reset it (the photos data includes the date). I would not extend the interval beyond what it states in your owners manual if you still want to maintain your warranty.

I haven't seen such a notice - do you have a link to it? I have enough Yellow coolant on hand to change my 2017 Sport which is at 65K miles, but wasn't planning on doing it just yet, but seeing an official notice I'll do it right away.

Are you sure that's the interval on a 3.5L with internal water pump?

That's a question for the 3.5L section, because of the concerns with the internal pump, but <16K miles would seem way too early. I prefer to stick with the OEM coolant and changing from Orange to Yellow does not require a flush knowing that the two fluids are compatible.

If I was considering the Livernois tune, the below thread would put me on "Edge". Topic: Livernois Motorsports and Engineering On Probation https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=10535.0

Thanks onyxbfly but I wont be doing a "flush", only a drain and then fill with the new yellow coolant.

Anyone have details on how to drain and get the most of the old Orange coolant out? Edit: Found it. Cooling System Draining and Vacuum Filling 2.7L.pdf

Yes I do, and used it on my wife's Mustang when I replaced the water pump.

I've got 65K miles on my 2017 Sport and was wondering what interval others are changing their coolant and do you have any tips on draining and filling.

Looks like there's a new oil filter being sold for our engines, the FL2062-A Has anyone tried this new Motorcraft filter? A few negative comments on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-FL-2062-Regular-Oil-Filter/dp/B010QU0SPU/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3IWCU0KHXKA4V&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=fl2062a%2Bmotorcraft%2Boil%2Bfilter&amp;qid=1604196409&amp;sprefix=fl2062a%2Caps%2C186&amp;sr=8-1&amp;th=1

Response received from https://www.levittownfordparts.com

Thanks for that. Way better deal here: https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/m-12405-35t.html PART NUMBER: M-12405-35T The web site says they're not for the Edge, but are correct for the F-150 without detailing which F-150 engine. Not much details available for those plugs and not sure if they're better than the NGK 95605 Ruthenium HX

Anyone bought spark plugs recently and does anyone have any feedback on the new Motocraft SP-578? I'm looking to buy soon and was also looking at the latest NGK 95605 Ruthenium HX. Also, any seals and gaskets needed?