1004ron

The center brake light should be working on all models.

Its was moved from the forum help section and left me with a wild guess as to what engine was being discussed. The below bold text in that section doesn't seem to attract much attention.

What engine? Please add vehicle model/year and location to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Just checked, mine has that gap and don't have an issue in storms or the car wash.

Yes for sure, many folks here DIY.

For the past few years I've bought the 6-pack when on special at Costco for my rebates, but this year I bought 2 X 5 quart jugs on special at Walmart for a $30 rebate.

The ends are spring-loaded and engage in recesses in the side plastic trim just behind the rear seats.

If the dealership has driven it and experienced what you're describing I'm surprised that they were unable to diagnose it - I would take it to another dealership.

How recently? Give it back to the seller.

Has anyone had this recall done yet?

How about adding country and vehicle Model & Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Or you could just stuff a few of the silica gel bags inside the tailgate cavity and that way the light bar vents will draw in dry air. Just don't use the DampRid stuff that creates a pool of fluid. https://www.amazon.com/Dry-Packets-Premium-Desiccant-Dehumidifier/dp/B00BP2ZJ08/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=Premium+Pure+%26+Safe+Silica+Gel&qid=1617233178&s=home-garden&sr=1-7

I the four years I've owned my Sport it happened only for a few days in the same week when we had very unusual climate changes, so I haven't bothered trying to find a solution. What about attaching a tube to one of the existing breathers and run it into a container of desiccant?

I doubt anyone here has disassembled the tensioner to confirm the bearing number, so best you disassemble yours and have an industrial bearing supplier match it up.

Bump in the hopes that robertlane will stop by and see this.

That's the typical location of an MAF, but I believe this vehicle uses an MAP instead which is downstream the throttle on the intake plenum.

The oil could be from when the catch-can was not correctly installed due to issues on Team-RX's part.

Correct, its not related to the pressure rating, but rather the type of hose which is designed to have a high permeation rate. https://www.new-line.com/information/what-does-pin-pricked-hose-cover-mean

Where did you read that? Don't you think that a blocked exhaust would effect all cylinders?

Probably caught it in time. What's the mileage ?

If you do end up taking it to the dealership, don't take it to the one where that Ford Master Senior Technician works. There was more diagnostics needed before his recommendation to replace ECU / PCM. I would do a compression and leak-down test to confirm that everything mechanical is good on the cylinder that has the misfire.

What model year? Does it have a drain plug? I prefer not to use anything else buy the normal operating oil to flush and then final fill.

Unless you've done significant modifications to the engine, intake and exhaust that has increased the capable mass flow that the engine can ingest, the stock OEM filter is more than capable of handling the maximum air flow without the pressure drop across it becoming a limiting factor on performance, while protecting the engine from damaging particulate.

This drop-in works best for me. Your choice will depend a lot on what you're expecting from an air filter - what would that be?

I can't offer comment on the tune, but can confirm that it will void warranty if an attempting to claim for damage that could remotely have been caused by the tune, which means that just about everything could be rejected.