Perblue

In this case that wouldn't help. Probably 80-90% who lowered an Edge are using stock shocks and struts, the other 10-20% with B6's, with no reported issues on here like what you are having reported on here or facebook. Likely something went wrong with your install, I know there are performance/import(they do alot of lowering jobs) shops in toronto, maybe they can help you out. A typical shop likely won't help with anything outside of OEM.

If he missed tightening up any of the bolts involved with the suspension yes definitely!

Unfortunately about all else I can recommend is to try loosening the sway bar links with weight on the tire and tighten them back up. Sometimes the bushings end up with too much pressure on them after lowering and need to settle better and can cause swaying and darting. You could call h&r, I did to have them answer any questions I had and support seemed to be really good. I would definitely recommend that before swapping back. I know with mine I can hit wash board gravel roads and big dips in roads and there is no sway and maybe one rise of the suspension and it settles right down, it is far superior to the stock setup when it's working. Did you go wider for tires? You may be experiencing tracking to do wider rubber, wouldn't explain the extreme bouncing though. I am unfamiliar with your rims but do they have the right center bore? If not did you use hub centering rings?

Smooth is subjective. I feel more bumps but it takes them alot better. Feels more planted to the road is probably the best description. Do you still have the stock rims and tires? maybe you've got a bad rim? In a post above you said it is still bouncing and swaying did it do it before lowering it but after putting the rims and tires on? Are you sure the springs are seated right on the rubber mounts in the back? Are the tops of the front struts aligned properly? this can easily be overlooked, it will sit at a different angle if done wrong speaking from experience, the can't just be thrown on any which way and be tightened onto the spring.

Yep, mine look exactly the same. Are you finding there is alot of suspension travel when you hit bumps or are you just feeling more bumps?

Just order the Bilstein B6 shocks and struts and you'll be far better off.

Debatable the edge got an updated safety rating in lighting once the adaptive headlights became functional on 2019 model year. That wasn't my point though. I was showing that it doesn't matter if you spend 20k or 200k every manufacturer ends up with overlooked problems big and small that are decided by bean counters on whether a problem gets fixed or not. A menu option greyed out wouldn't be a blip on the radar.

Every single manufacturer does this it doesn't matter who it is or how much you spend and over much more dire things than this. Look up hyundai engine fires or mercedes's ABC braking system or bmw's vanos system. Either you live with that fact or don't drive, like it or not lives are worth money and sometimes it's cheaper to let x amount be injured or die than to fix it until they get forced to by a judge or government agency.

It is a thing https://www.onedayglass.com/types-of-glass/tempered-laminated-glass/ https://www.fabglassandmirror.com/laminated "A tempered laminated glass made with two panes of tempered glass is also widely common in living spaces where greater security is required. Thus, tempered glass is only a safety glass, while laminated safety glass is both shatterproof glass as well as safe to use."

It actually isn't. Plain glass breaks in sharp random shards and splinters almost exploding, so when it breaks you can get hit with small spikes even with laminated, like the fine ones you find days later with your foot after breaking a drinking glass on the floor. Causing a huge chance of getting fine pieces in your eyes and such during an accident. Tempered shatters into a million tiny puzzle like pieces but not spikes and doesn't explode the same creating much less splinters, which is much safer for occupants of a vehicle. It is also far more impact resistant using tempered instead of plain glass, which is why they use it for security glass, fish tanks, etc.

Laminated glass can be made up of tempered glass.

sounds maybe like the metal clips the slide on to plastic parts so you can bolt to it. you have to get a vice grip on the nut end so you can spin out the bolt. that's my best guess from experience without a picture.

Ford put a fairly low torque limit on take off, it's talked about all over the mod/tuning section on here.

I'm sure there is something in the back end as some forums show it on the front.

Could also be, depending on what tires you have, the insulation on the inside of the tire let go. Could also be mechanical related odd it didn't come on gradually over time though

That is an extreme case of a failed valve, the one on my Camaro didn't show any loss over half an hour, yet in the morning it had to be primed. If you were able to leave it on for an extended period of time it would have likely showed. I was chasing a worse problem at the time though. When I finally did the pump the starting issue went away.

A bad check valve doesn't really show up with a fuel pressure test. You can have good pressure with a bad valve and since you have to prime it a couple times to pressure up the tester. Basically if you have to prime/turn the key back and forth a couple times for it to start it's likely a bad check valve. I don't doubt it costs 700 to change the fuel pump.

That it is unfortunately and is part of the pump so you just replace the pump.

I don't know if this applies to the edge fuel pump or not but chevys were infamous for it, someone can maybe chime in on this. There is an anti drain back valve in the fuel pump to keep fuel in the fuel rail when the car sits. The valve would go bad and allow the fuel to drain back over time, sometimes a few hours, sometimes over night. You would have to turn the key back and forth several times, just the first click don't actually try and start it until you've done it a few times, to repressurize the fuel rail and then it would start.

My lines disappeared on my 2013 and it took a new camera to fix it.

To me it was. I like the ride better, handles rough roads far better. It also seems more planted and handling improved quite a bit.

Nope none until my front strut died. I'm not sure what struts and shocks they use on the st-line but it is possible that the shocks and struts used can't handle the drop. My rear shocks also started to leak after less than 10k miles after lowering, so I'd recommend just getting a set of B6's. Bilstein B6 Performance Series Shocks and Struts 2019 FORD EDGE Parts & Accessories | Summit Racing

Find another shop, if the cel came on there will be a stored code even if it went off.

what's the code? if there is a lit cel there is a code.

I did have some. The intercooler sits about an inch lower than the lower rad support. To fix this I had to remove one bolt on each of the hot and cold side pipe that keeps them attacked to the rad, cut off the bolt tabs that stick out the front of the lower rad support(has to be done no matter what), dremeled out the mounting holes in the mounting tabs on the intercooler to make an upside-down U shape(would help if they lowered the tab or a larger one with 2 holes), had a friend help push it up and bolt it in with washers on the bolts. By doing this it will sit a little higher than the bottom of the lower rad support, less likely to bottom it out, and only about a quarter inch below the condenser, allowing you to keep the ags if you choose, lines the intercooler up better with the opening in the bumper and only need to trim a couple indents out the lower splash guard. Leaving it how it comes makes the fitment of the lower splash guard look bad and doesn't line up nice with the bumper opening. Doing what I've listed makes it look almost stock and even with keeping the ags it dropped my charge temps by 70-80 F, basically from about 220 down to about 150 on the day i tested it.