Perblue

It's possible your alternator is wearing out and occasionally putting out less. You may also have a bad or loose ground somewhere intermittently not making enough contact.

Sure it is, jack it up so the fill hole points up some and fill until it pours out the hole.

Code B108A Ford: Start Button General Electrical Failure (autocodes.com)

Yup, voltage tests good from the alternator and at the battery while running, vehicle gets driven typically daily. This is a thing, on forums and facebook groups there are very few who have a 2019 that aren't on to their second battery or so.

Yeah! Still wanting one but had somethings come up that cost more than planned. Hoping to order before the end of the year.

Installed the third battery in 3.5 years. 1st came with it (lasted 2 years), 2nd was warranty replacement (lasted 1.5 years), let's see how long this 3rd one lasts (hopefully longer than 2 ford ones).

Take it to the dealer the drive train is covered for 5 years 60k miles. Otherwise double check that the coil packs are seated right and that the connectors to them are fully plugged in and not loose, what you did shouldn't make it run worse.

So paypal gift option would be an option if production numbers were low? Really contemplating ordering one to replace my steeda one.

It's not a case of power, see the 2.7l F150 towing capacity, it can tow much more. It's to do with numerous things - braking, cooling and what the chassis and suspension can handle, all this equates to what the vehicle can tow safely and reliably with buffer room. No matter what they rate towing capacity there will be a fool, not saying that this is you, that figures there vehicle can handle 2 or 3 thousand over its rating even if the manufacturer posted a vehicles absolute maximum towing capacity. Power is not the issue. Imagine someone trying to tow a 6 or 7 thousand pound load with an edge. ?

Those are you're AC lines not heater core. There will be rubber hoses that run to the firewall to your heater core, both should feel hot once the vehicle has warmed up some. If not your cooling system wasn't bled properly and your heater core isn't getting antifreeze through it. Also check that you aren't low on coolant as the system may have worked out an air bubble and is now low. Otherwise it will be your blend door actuator not fully moving from hot to cold.

Doing this will be a lot cheaper than a set of 22" all-weather or winter tire. You could also look for a used set.

Lots of Blue Loctite. I ended up using a milwalkee diamond tipped tile holesaw on a corded drill, with very very frequent dips in oil and steady mild pressure, too much knocks the diamonds off. I tried every type of bit and every one either dulled fast or broke off.

Good luck, I broke my bolt doing mine, not even a 1" impact would move it. Best advice I've seen is a huge cheater bar, pipe on ratchet, on a good quality breaker bar and keep slowly moving it back and forth. It would suck to do on ramps, a lift is definitely best. The ones who seem to say it's easy are 2018 and younger models, on the 2019 and up they seem to have dipped almost the whole bolt in lock tight. ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS WITH A JACK!

Edge is only rated for 3500lbs so they are covered. Just because you can doesn't mean you should, otherwise every speed related offense and death above 70 or 80mph would be the fault of the car manufacturer.

It's rated as a class 2 hitch but has a class 3 receiver, so 2".

Keep it easy the first 500, then giver(unless you are in an area that experiences true winter, then give it a few minutes to let the turbos warm up during colder months. Ford says it's a class 2 hitch but it has a class 3 receiver, this is normal. Unfortunately yes.

Umm there are no mounts or nuts for the back. That quote seems crazy high for literally jack up car, possibly pull wheel off, unbolt 3 bolts, put in new shock and reverse process. If it was the fronts then it would make more sense. If you do B6's then do all 4 though since the dynamics of them are quite different but really doubt you'll regret it. I love mine and are way more durable and much better warranty.

Did you get it with the Cold Weather Package(Code 55C)? If not you don't have it. See page 10. 2019 Edge Order Guide (ford.com)

The 2 wire coil packs will all have constant voltage at the same time, the pcm is the ground. When the coil pack loses ground that causes the coil to fire. Coil On Plug Ignition: The Wired Differences (siu.edu) Coil-on-plug (2-wire) - primary voltage (picoauto.com) "This principle starts with a magnetic field being produced, as the coil's earth circuit is completed by either the contacts or the amplifier providing the coil negative terminal with a path to earth. When this circuit is complete, a magnetic field is produced and builds until the coil becomes magnetically saturated. At the predetermined point of ignition, the coil's earth is removed and the magnetic field collapses. As the field inside the coil's 250 to 350 primary windings collapses, it induces a voltage of 150 to 350 volts." I would suggest a compression test and coolant exhaust gas test, unless the one with no voltage is for cylinder 1 then start there.

Haha my 2019 ST has started throwing these codes a couple weeks ago and I'm off warranty. Oil pressure, low oil and old oil are good starting places. Next is swap the cam solenoids from bank 1 to 2 and vice versa. If it moves to bank 1, you know it's the solenoids. Also inspect the solenoids for any dirt, etc.(The stage I'm on) If it doesn't move and still throws aa code then from what I know it's time to replace the vvt cam sprocket.

Sorry for slow follow up. It should be all good, If the bolt did so happen to come undone turning it back, the bolt would have been under torqued. Spark plugs make no difference unless turning the crank. If your crank is set on it's timing mark you don't need to worry about the cylinders, make sure crank and cams are all lined up with their marks and you should be good to go.

There is a bolt in the center that attaches it to the cam, stick a socket(looks like it's likely a torx) in it and slowly turn it until it lines up. You can't turn it by hand because of the valve spring pressure.

Try adjusting the rubber bump stops under the hood. If this doesn't do it then the hood latch needs to be adjusted down a little.

Love what you've done but this is clearly a world issue not just forum. Everything I read I didn't take how you did and seems to be overly defensive, hell for some reason you guys blocked me on facebook despite me not ever saying anything to you, can see clearly people chatting and replying to you but I see nothing but their replies. People need to chill and find their sense of heehaw and quit taking things so serious. There will be critics no matter what you do, do what you do because you enjoy it, not for anything else, if people didn't do this we would have the insanely modified cars like civics, golfs and such. Hell most people around me and shops around here think I'm dumb for modifying my edge, but I do it anyways because I enjoy having a modified vehicle.

All engines end up with it from the crank, cams, lifters, cylinder walls/sleeves, oil pump, etc. A lot of a motor is still ferrous. Oil doesn't eliminate wear but helps keep it to a minimum, the stuff collected are microparticles, as fine as dust. No since 120,000 miles with no engine work is very typical and it is more unusual if it is required now a days. 300k miles or more and planning on keeping vehicle long term possibly. Not saying an aftermarket plug or magnet is required, but it can't hurt and definitely keeps some particles that could speed up wear from going through the system.