Perblue

Never write off the battery. So many are made so cheap now a days that dieing in a couple years is far from unheard of. Same with doa batteries. Yes it could bee that more is demanded of them now a days that causes it, but either way it's worth getting tested.

This ☝️. If you are running on crap tires or 5 years or older "all seasons" or near worn out tires awd isn't going to do much for you other than be slightly better than fwd with the exact same tires on it. I've had family members insist that their car was no good in winter and would argue it wasn't the tires. ?

He wouldn't be able to use vacuum forming then and costs would go up significantly I'm betting.

I hope so, with our terrible streets my stock ones are taking a pounding. Ford replaced one since it was totally blown but not the others since they are not leaking. I can feel a difference from the new one compared to my still original ones. Also yes I ordered both. ? I do have the pipe but no bung hole, lol. I was thinking I'd have to get one put into it. I wasn't planning on meth but with losing my 94 octane pump, got knocked down to 91 due to apparently an ethanol shortage, I really don't want to step back. Also no E pumps around so that isn't an option. I'll shoot snmjim a message in a bit. Thanks!

Yes it can but it still can't calculate your mileage from the octane it detects after just filling up. It will say the same dte in accessory, before it even has a chance to figure the octane rating out, as it does when starting it up immediately after filling so it is all based on your mileage history in the pcm.

It's an estimation based on your previous mpg, which is affected by numerous factors, or current mpg if you reset it. It's more important what you actually got. How you're thinking it would actually be the mpg from the premium that is possibly making it think it can go farther on the next tank even though you put in regular. Now you may go just as far on regular but that takes several consecutive tanks of each to determine that.

No kidding! I wasn't so lucky with mine. I tried working it but I lost and broke it and ended up using a few diamond whole saws to drill it out. Worst mount I've ever change. To go on topic My B6 shocks arrive on thursday and hopefully have time to put them in next week and likely a meth kit to follow soon.

Any chance of any of this applying to the 8F57?

Yes I have and did. Unfortunately there is no drain plug for the ptu so you have no other choice but to suck and fill through the fill hole. Just make sure the hose gets to the bottom for sucking. At least the transmission and differential has a drain and fill plug.

You need an oil extractor, one that comes with flexible tubing, to fit in and down the fill hole. Don't forget about the differential fluid. Mine was far worse than my PTU.

Almost positive this one will work on a ST. You're going to make me wish I didn't buy my steeda one last year. If I lived closer I'd be all for testing. ?

The brakes aren't bigger. The calipers are painter red, the pads are different, the cooling fan is different and I think the brake shield is a little different. I do believe that in 2021 they eliminated the spare entirely but could be wrong. The spare from previous years will fit though.

Basic system is 6 speakers, the premium system(9 speakers) which enigma is correct. It makes no difference if you have navigation or not. You went around and made sure all speakers are putting out sound? I'm not sure if the SEL has a stereo/surround setting but surround makes a big difference if it is there.

It was available as an upgrade option in 2018 but if it wasn't ordered with it there is no way to add it later. You would need to see Ford Pass Connect modem on the build sheet otherwise you only get basic functionality.

They are going to fix it this one time since my replacements are so far out. ?

Guess I'll find out. I've already ordered the B6s anyways but potentially won't be here until june 2nd according to summit. If they fix the leaking one great, if not oh well. Doesn't hurt to try. My dealer has been ok to deal with most times even though they seem to doubt me anytime I bring up an issue. Kicker is I've had it in before for vibrations and such before mods and it's probably been the shock the whole time, it's just finally failing visibly to the point the would fix it...if it's leaking fast enough. Odd thing is I had an easier time getting things fixed on my used edge with extended warranty than this new one on factory warranty.

I've got H&R springs so I have no idea if they will cover it on warranty or not, only put on about 4k since the swap from stock springs. Darn dealership asked me who told me it was blown, told them it's coated in oil and dirt and rattles going over small bumps even at low speed so how is it not? My tires also rub the fender liners, which they never used to especially with my skinnier winter tires on. They then claim if it's a seep it's not covered, it's only covered for a bad leak. The other side isn't showing signs of leaking but is rubbing also, so obviously that won't be fixed since it's not covered in oil. They look at it Thursday. So since they likely won't fix both of them I'm likely ordering a full set of Bilstein B6's, read kyb had a set possibly but no shop has reference of it so maybe I miss read. For the few that have put on B6's do you still like them, I know @Xtra has done them, and did you use the stock bump stops, aftermarket or wish you did the opposite of what you used. Thanks

Is yours an ST? I thought they came stock with an oil cooler. Here's the ford one specific to the ST. K2GZ-7869-B 2019-2020 Ford Oil Cooler | Fairway Ford Parts

Yes they are working. They aren't a feature that can be turned on or off.

Not sure of the year or where you live but next thought is check your grounds, sorry I'm not sure where the are all located, there will be a few though. Also have you tried starting it a dozen times or so quickly, don't turn the key to the off position, if it finally cranks your starter is a dud. There is also the chance that the nuts came loose on the starter. It won't be a parasitic voltage drain since it starts when left along for a while and isn't fuel since it doesn't even crank over once. To me it's got to be related to the starter. Either poor ground, poor power to it or the new starter is a dud since the rest tests fine. Someone else may have other ideas though.

Get your alternator tested and your new battery, you could have gotten a dud.

Correct!

Some systems will blame cylinder 1 be default when a random miss fire is detected. The cat is likely toast, considering O2 sensors are already replaced, and I would have replaced the cat already since I've seen a lot of miss fire codes and have rarely seen a cat code show at the same time.

The only reason I could see them asking for pictures is to make sure it's not being replaced when not needed. If the dealership is confident in their diagnosis and it is the ford extended warranty you have, not some third party one, then it should already be disassembled and claim submitted. I've never had any problems getting things fixed on fords extended warranty.

Yes this is typical in vehicles that use the same light for drl as the low beam. It just doesn't turn on your dash and tail lights in drl mode. You are likely needing to replace your bulbs. Any halogen whether it's a standard halogen bulb or HIDs dim over time.