dabangsta

2019 SEL with the 8F35, 90k miles (original fluid, flog me now). A week ago it started shuddering up to 35mph lightly, I setup an appointment to see about getting TSB 21-2081 performed (on my dime since out of warranty). I also bought fluid to change it out. Returned from a 600 mile trip in 115+ weather, no issues on interstate or when exiting to surface streets to home. Back into driveway and push Start button and get message park not available. So it set the park brake and the shifter light was blinking in Park. I tried moving it, and it took a second to engage forward, was able to drive it way, but a few blocks away or started doing harsh shifts, and free wheeling. So it has sat until today. Pulled codes: p0771 - shift solenoid E performance/Stuck Off p2704:00-6c - transmission friction element E apply time range/performance P07e4:00-28 - unable to engage park p0771:00-64 - shift solenoid E performance/Stuck Off p073d:00-68 - unable to engage neutral It will now shift to park and neutral, I haven't driven it enough after sitting to see if it is okay now. I have 5 quarts of Mercon ULV, and I can erase the adaptive tables, but am I just pouring fluid into a done transmission? I can only find a TSB for the 8F35 and Transit Connects and these codes, and seems specific to that vehicle, but is a rebuild/replacement of output planetary carrier and assorted parts.

Is $60 difference worth it? You can look at the rotors and see the differences, non PP is externally vented (the vents open up on the rim side of the rotor), PP is like most, vents open up behind the hat. Otherwise they are probably dimensionally the same (total height, friction surface thickness, etc) and could be interchanged. I don't think the caliper mounts are different (which could move the caliper closer or further away from the center of the car).

That other brand mentioned, Kendall VersaTrans LV, is an aftermarket fluid that is Ford OEM Approved (licensed), lists the license numbers and everything. https://kendallmotoroil.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Versatrans-LV-ATF.pdf

Their product information sheet states it is not an OEM licensed product, and that no vehicle manufacturer has tested, evaluated, or endorses the product. https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/9e447451-fe75-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/5ca3517a-e29c-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3 They do not have an OEM licensed product for Mercon LV (or ULV) but do for Mercon V. Plenty of companies license it, but rarely is it included with a broad "one fluid for all" cover all specs fluid.

If Valvoline won't pay for licensing or get it tested to see that it meets Mercon LV specs, I pass.

Yup, without the paddles, Sport is the only assist. My 2019 doesn't have paddle shifters either, I have bought a wheel with the shifters to swap them in, another user here posted they just installed the wheel and they worked, but it was not a 2024 like yours. 2019 paddle shifters where available with AWD, but 2024 only on ST or with tow package.

Is it a P0303 error? Do you also find it is low on coolant, need to keep adding coolant? Is it the 2.0 I4 GTDI engine or the 3.5 V6 (or the 2.7 V6 GTDI)?

I wouldn't say it is reasonable, but it is probably close to what a dealership gets for the work. The long block is $2,600, not sure why the turbo is included, but the long block doesn't include the accessories, and I would replace the pumps, not the turbo unless something else happened to it. It shows 15 hours of labor, so $3000 if $200 an hour, so not sure where that other $4000 goes. This shows the parts required to do it, a lot of nuts and bolts and gaskets, but $4000 worth? https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10169807-0001.pdf

Is it only the Service Advancetrac warning or also Brake and/or ABS lights also on?

The 21 inch gloss black wheels are a stand alone option on the 401a group ST, I think that you think you have the brushless radiator fans, but doubt that you do. Who is to say they ordered it, and it wasn't just dealer stock? Not everyone wants red painted calipers, 21 inch wheels and resulting more expensive tires, or summer only tires.

There are 4 different front rotors. 316mm vented FWD 345mm vented AWD 345mm vented inverted hat (ST, standard with calipers with larger pistons, not painted red) 345mm vented conventional hat (ST, Performance Brake Package with calipers with larger pistons, red painted) The rear rotors are 316mm solid for FWD and AWD non ST 345mm vented for ST with standard or Performance Brake Package

ST doesn't have them standard, it needs the ST Performance Brake Package. That includes the red painted calipers, different rotors and brake pads (and 21 inch gloss black painted wheels, brushless radiator fan, summer only tires, and vented brake backers.

2020 should have had a paper owners manual. When they added it to the infotainment (2021 and SYNC 4a), I think some time 2021 to 2024 no more paper owners manual.

While it would be easier with a wiring diagram of the fusebox to determine what is switched and what is constant, since the HK4 install kit has fuse taps, I would go for circuits like the radio (fuse 33) that is likely constant power (it uses logic to actually turn on and off, if you can turn it on without being in accessory/running), and 36 or 37 for the switched. Should use the Micro2 tabs in the kit. Make sure you put them pointing the right was so that the circuit is actually fused and not bypassing the fuse for the added circuit! Sometimes you pick which fuse to use by where it is and also provides the type of power you need (switched or constant). I only needed switched, so I will tap into the connector going to the rear view mirror (your SEL also has this, so it has a switched power going to it).

Clickable links to pages from the Table of Contents, Index, and within the content (This is where you check the coolant, go to page 98 for specifications), and searchable? Indispensable for those that want to find it, know it, or understand it. Many people don't want to know, don't care, or will just ask. I drove mine home, had an understanding of 90% of it already (it is a car, it is a Ford, it has SYNC 3.0, etc) but a little reading on Adaptive Cruise, remote start settings, where the emergency key slot is, I made sure I understand all that before trying it out or driving much. A couple hours well spent.

Hmm, I don't do it very often (just when the trash can won't go by it, or accidentally if walking close to it), it took more than a finger push, but not much. This is a 2019. My previous vehicle was a 2017 Escape and they are pretty similar. I could see doing this so many times it wears it out and makes it shake at idle. According to the order guide (I don't have a 2014) every model from SE up has folding side view mirrors (manual).

That isn't how it works anyways for the Fords that do have auto folding mirrors (like some year MKX which is the Lincoln version of the Edge). The icon on the mirror shows the car door and the mirror with the heat indicator, and the joystick shows the same, the side of the car and the mirror with the directions you will be moving it. For 2019, the Nautilus has power folding mirrors for one option package. If enabled, it does auto fold when car is turned off, in park, open the drivers door, and lock it. There also is a button in the left left quadrant of the control, but it isn't a joystick like that. I am too lazy to narrow down when auto folding was added to the MKX, I don't think it was available in 2014 but at least by 2019 it was, and likely earlier (2016), but maybe not the 2015 redesign.

No trim level for any year has power folding mirrors for the Edge. I think that all are manual folding capable, no matter the year or trim level or options (BLIS, heated, turn signals, etc).

I haven't checked the thickness of the rotors, but I haven't had rotors turned in a long time, and I don't plan on pad slapping this one either, so $100 for the caliper brackets, and slightly higher for the bigger rotors but not major.

At around 87,000 miles on my 2019 FWD SEL, and the rear pads are getting pretty thin. I have not had a car in recent memory that I didn't do some sort of big brake upgrade to (10.8 inch to 13 inch Cobra on my Mark VIII, 14 inch GT500 on my Grand Marquis, etc). Mine is FWD and has the smaller front rotors (316mm), and I want to go with the 345mm AWD ones (not looking to go with the ST Base or PP). I will leave the rears the standard 316mm solid. It seems like the caliper is the same for either rotor (and pads), just the bracket/support/mount is different. Can I just go with new caliper mounts, rotors, and pads from the AWD? Or do I need the bracket and caliper? If I put in the VIN for my FWD and for an AWD vehicle, I get same PN for calipers, different for rotors and brackets(supports), so not sure. Also they are referenced as "front vented 17" and 18 front vented. I assume that is for older years that still had 17 inch wheels standard (but all 2015+ have 18+ wheels). If I can get away with not unhooking the calipers so I need to bleed them, all the better. I am going to guess that it won't affect anything like ABS, stop and go cruise, collision avoidance, etc. I have a 17 inch spare, I think I have seen recent posts about 17 inch spare fitting over front and rear ST brakes, which have same rotor size but caliper is different.

My 2012 Fusion with the 390w premium sound setup is very obvious in how much it affects the volume between stopped and at speed, even with it being a noisier vehicle inside. I never would have guessed my 2019 SEL with premium sound has it (all trim levels and all sound systems have it), but it really doesn't get very loud inside by speed. I can adjust it on my Fusion, but my 2019 Edge it is either on or off. Hopefully someone will post the service manuals page on how it works.

The Wireless charging pad only provides up to 5w, so 5v 1a! With the screen off and Wireless Android Auto going it draws way more than that. The USB ports seem like 1amp as well, maybe 1.5 (it will charge my phone connected to Wired Android Auto). My current one, that has a Type A and a Type C port, is only 15w Type C and 15w Type A (it is completely over hyped as far as 20w Type C and 18 Type A), but I only have one device that can charge higher, and it doesn't need to. It does charge more than 15w if my phone is below 30% on the Type C port. fits in and the cover still covers it.

Winter formulation of fuel with more ethanol is probably not being rolled out in the western hemisphere right now.

For 2011-2013 there was a TSB (18-2013) on it, you can get the part number for the revised latch. There are all sorts of posts and videos here, from cleaning, to replacing, to breaking off the switch so it never does anything (but there are all sorts of side effects to that, like radio not turning off).

Air filter changed every 20,000 miles at least? No low tires (check them, not relying on the TPMS system)? No wheel that is hotter than the rest, or has more brake dust on it? How many miles and all other maintenance up to date, like spark plugs? Also driving style and environment around town can easily give you slightly lower than the EPA rating. I never match it (or highway either, but that rating doesn't include interstate driving, nothing over 55 if I remember correctly), I am an aggressive driver (jack rabbit starts, don't coast to stops but keep on the gas then instantly to brake, late and hard).